HMS Harpy 1796 by Blue Ensign – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post 71

Completion of first stage.

Five months into this build and time for a long overdue workshop GTU, and some stage photos.

 

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I now need to decide where I’m going with this build.

I completed my previous two builds ‘Navy Board’ Style with stump masts, but I am leaning  towards going a little further with Harpy.

My initial thoughts are to rig her with lower masts and standing rigging in place but without yards.

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I did this with my model of Victory.

I quite like this set-up on models and it has the advantage of space saving.

 

With Harpy, extending the build time, and deferring any concerns of what to do next are also a factor, and I fancy doing some rigging again.

I will start with a mock-up to gauge the overall space requirements, and then, once Mrs W has left the premises, wander around the house looking where it will fit in.

 

A plan of sorts.

 

B.E.

28/04/2025

 

 

[gjdale]

19 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

and then, once Mrs W has left the premises, wander around the house looking where it will fit in.

You are a very brave man B.E.! Good luck with that strategy.

[SaltyScot]

3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

once Mrs W has left the premise

 

I guess it is better to ask for forgiveness rather than for permission. As @gjdale just said, you are a brave man, sir!

[Blue Ensign]

Post 72

Channels and Timberheads.

These are the last main features to add to the hull exterior.

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Channels and Timberheads slot seamlessly into place.

 

Side steps.

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Annoying but necessary little beggars these, two tiny pieces comprising a tread and support glued together at right angles, five required each side. Fortunately the locations are engraved on the top sides which helps with this exercise.

With the use of laser cutters, shape and even a design is included on items that would prove very difficult to produce by hand accurately at this scale.

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The  Bow bollards (275) referred to in the manual as  Gunwale bow timbers sit either side of the Bowsprit. They are a less fancy version of the Knightheads that support the Bowsprit.

These need  bevelling on their inboard faces to run parallel to the Bowsprit.

I have made up some test  masts and spars to gauge the overall size were I to detail the lower masts and standing rigging.

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These are the full length Masts, Bowsprit, and Driver boom, as per the plans. How they relate to Steel I haven’t checked at this point.

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The masts are in Walnut but I prefer Ramin for lower masts.

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This is the space profile compared to Sphinx, I  think I can accommodate her with lower rigging in place but without the yards.

Decision made.

 

B.E.

30/04/2025

[Blue Ensign]

Post 73

Strops, chains, and plates.

I prefer to chemically blacken ‘ironwork’ rather than paint it, as I think it gives a subtle and more realistic representation.

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It is more time consuming, and there are several parts that make up the strops and chain plate combinations.

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I test the assembled shroud combinations along the Channels to gauge where they fall on the Wale.

The positions shown on the plan accord with those on the Adm plan.

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I may be missing something but I seem to have a potential problem; the lower link falls  awkwardly right on the top edge of the wale, and the preventer plate sits too low on the wale.

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Compared to the Plan the lower chain (pe20) seems over-long which throws the Preventer plate (pe21) too low.

 

I have come across this issue on previous models where the answer is to adjust the upper chain link to bring the lower link and preventer plate to their correct placing, but a smaller lower link would be preferable.

This does however involve a fair bit of faffing around to get the correct size.

 

I am not in a position to fit the deadeyes at this stage as I decided to invest in resin versions in Swiss Pear colour, the latest innovation from Chuck’s Syren company.

The basic kit blocks  and Deadeyes are ok but lack the detail of what is now available. They also need sorting to weed out those with mis-cut holes etc;

 

I’ve not picked up any indication of the need for adjustment, so I’m not sure what’s going on here, the wale is in the correct position as are the channels.

 

B.E.

02/05/2025

 

Edited May 2 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Fore and Main Masts. (Part 1)

I am working these as per the kit dimensions using 8mm Ramin dowel.

The trickiest part is forming the 5mm square mastheads from dowel.

I do this  by marking the square area on the dowel top, lining along for the required length, and filing using 120 grade sandpaper glued to a broad stick.

I gauge by eye with constant  measurement and square checks.

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 I initially  pare down to around 5.5mm before checking with the cross trees. It is then a case of reduction by degrees whilst maintaining the square profile.

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The sides of the stick are then sanded flat to accommodate the Cheeks.

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I use Tamiya tape to define the  area to take the cheeks, again careful use of a broad sanding stick is all that is required with constant checking to ensure squareness.

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The masts were coated with w-o-p, and I painted the Pearwood cheeks to better tone with the Ramin Masts. I then use a water based oche tinted wood dye to  even out the colour tone.

 

The laser cut Trestle trees in Pearwood slot together cleanly and firmly.

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I very much like the Mast tops, beautifully cut and detailed, a joy to work with.

 

Regardless of mast rake the tops should be level to the waterline.

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It seems to take me ages to ensure the Mast tops sit square and level, the final adjustments being made after gluing but before it sets.

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Once the mast tops are firmly fixed, the  Bibs and  Front fish are added.

 

B.E.

06/05/2025

 

[SaltyScot]

I really like the detail in those mast tops too, B.E. The way you got those mast tips square is a good lesson in patience and an example of how NOT to rush a job like that. Very nice work, sir. Good methodology and the right tools leads to fine results.

[Blue Ensign]

A pleasant surprise.

My supply of resin deadeyes and blocks arrived today, a mere seven days from order to door. Thanks Chuck, excellent service.

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Swiss Pear Resin versions from Chuck’s Syren range.

 

I am very pleased with these, the detail is way beyond the usual kit blocks. Note the shaping of the ‘eyes’ in the deadeyes, and the well formed sheaves and strop grooves in the blocks.

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3mm rigging hooks

I also  like these black plastic hooks, saves all that blackening of brass versions.

 

I note that Chuck is contemplating making a 3/16”  scale version of Resin Belay pins that should suit a 1:64 scale model.

I do hope this comes to pass, they would be a nicer option than the rather two-dimensional brass etch versions.

 

Back to the masts.

 

B.E.

07/05/2025

   

 

 

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

The deadeyes and blocks look great and much better quality than the kit supplied items. In particular I am having to sort through the 3mm deadeyes for usable ones as the position of the three holes is very erratic.

Edited Wednesday at 12:35 PM by Glenn-UK

[Blue Ensign]

The innovation of Resin and 3d printing have been a game changer in ship modelling, a much higher level of accuracy and realism in fittings, particularly at smaller scales. Chris and Chuck have been prime leaders in this field and I'm a confirmed fan of their work.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 75

Masts (Part 2)

Mast Hoops

There are twelve iron hoops supporting the Main mast, alternating between under and over the Front Fish.

The Foremast has ten hoops but they don’t uniformly alternate, six sit above the front fish and four beneath.

There are no wooldings involved with the Harpy build.

 

The kit provides black card for the purpose of Hoop making and  a scale breadth of 1.5mm is indicated.

This agrees with the sizes given by Steel.

Breadth – 4” - 4½” breadth, ½” - ⅝” thick.

 

Whilst I often use  slices of  heat shrink tubing for hoops I will be using the card option which will better conform to the profile around cheeks and Fish.

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I fit the hoops that fit beneath the Fish first, here on the Fore mast.

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I use a template to mark the hoop positions down the mast.

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Fitting the hoops is  a bit fiddly, care has to be taken to remove any glue  spread onto the mast.

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I have left the hoops black as a contrast but in reality they would probably have been painted along with the masts by the early 19^thcentury.

Bolsters

These are provided as short sections of 2x2mm square stock.

In my view they are a tad on the short side as a means of  protecting the shrouds, particularly if the shrouds are to be properly served.

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I replaced the kit parts with quarter rounded 2x2.5mm  stuff. This also overhangs the trestletrees by a fraction as it should.

I’m leaving the masts for a while as my supplies of Resin deadeyes have arrived and I’m  keen to resolve the looming problem of over-long links, which has been on my mind since Post 73.

 

B.E.

08/05/2025

 

[dvm27]

Your model is very lovely so far. Your concept of rigging the lower yards only with the top masts lowered and mostly derigged is reminiscent of illustrations I’ve seen off these ships in their winter configurations.

 

Perhaps consider not gluing in the masts. Once you’ve added the shrouds, stays and back stays they are almost impossible to move but minor adjustments may be made by adjusting the standing rigging (just like the real vessel).

[SaltyScot]

Those kit supplied hoops turned out really well and, in my humble opinion, you did right in leaving them black. I like the contrast. I also agree that 3D printing can (and certainly will) play a major role in this fine hobby. I know I do not regret buying a printer.

[Blue Ensign]

18 hours ago, dvm27 said:

Your model is very lovely so far. Your concept of rigging the lower yards only with the top masts lowered and mostly derigged is reminiscent of illustrations I’ve seen off these ships in their winter configurations.

 

Perhaps consider not gluing in the masts. Once you’ve added the shrouds, stays and back stays they are almost impossible to move but minor adjustments may be made by adjusting the standing rigging (just like the real vessel).

Thank you Greg,

 My thought is to rig her without yards, and with the Topmasts in the lowered position. I will have to make the Topmasts from square stock with the heel sheaves in place. Alternatively I could store the Topmasts on the Gallows.

This is all about space saving.

 

I do prefer to build up the mast sections on the model rather than glue all the sections together before fitting, and I tend to glue as little as possible on my models including the masts. Depending on the mast fit I sometimes apply the merest spot of pva, sufficient to hold the mast square, but with the bond easily broken with a twist.

 

I’m always thinking I may want to remove this one day.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[chris watton]

Always best to glue as little as possible for masts and rig, because if something is accidentally broken, things are so much easier to repair. I do wince when I read that some use copious amounts of CA on their rigging, rather than a little dab of diluted PVA..

 

Harpy looking fantastic!

[Blue Ensign]

Sound advice Chris, the only thing ca is of use for in rigging is forming needle points on lines to assist feeding thro' sheave holes, and sealing the  cut ends of polyester line.

 

Cheers,

B.E.

[chris watton]

33 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Sound advice Chris, the only thing ca is of use for in rigging is forming needle points on lines to assist feeding thro' sheave holes, and sealing the  cut ends of polyester line.

 

Cheers,

B.E.

Yes, I use CA for the same thing, but that is never left on the model, it is just to make it easier to push the rope through the holes in the blocks.