HMS Montague 1779 by garyshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class

[druxey]

Fascinating information, hjx! However, it might be more economic for Gary to have a professional carver produce the figure without first having to make a maquette, find a 3D scanner, scan the said maquette, time to learn how to use a sophisticated 3D program and...and... and! Or having to make a serious investment in software and CNC engraving machinery.

[mtaylor]

Uh... Glowforge?  Not sure I can recommend them.  They've had too many issues.  They're more of a small craft hobby machine.    That may have changed.  There were issues over smoke removal as it was labeled as being able to be used one's kitchen... They also had the time, they the only way to "print/cut" was via an internet connection and not directly using a cable.  There was a file size limit and a "cut" time limit due to heat build up.  So they may be ok by now that they've gone into production.    I'll assume you've read all the amazon reviews, and other customer reviews?

 

That router looks interesting.  

 

 

[SJSoane]

Hi Gary,

 

I see you made a very nice job of the hawse liners at the bow, including the sculpted U-shaped feathered edge that I see in my original drawings as well. I have been pondering how to make that cut myself. Do you recall how thick you made the hawse liner, measured from the face of the planking behind? And how you made that nice sculpted edge?

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

[garyshipwright]

On 1/2/2020 at 8:58 AM, SJSoane said:

Hi Gary,

 

I see you made a very nice job of the hawse liners at the bow, including the sculpted U-shaped feathered edge that I see in my original drawings as well. I have been pondering how to make that cut myself. Do you recall how thick you made the hawse liner, measured from the face of the planking behind? And how you made that nice sculpted edge?

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

Hi Mark. If am following you the liner is really two pieces which was around 6 inches thick in scale, each piece being around 3 inches thick. Have not added the bolsters yet which will take up the other 5 to 6 inches of the lower cheek. The sculpted is easy to do when you make it out of two pieces like I did putting the sculpted edge in to the second liner piece. Seems the books don't give much info on them.  Gary

[garyshipwright]

On 1/1/2020 at 10:59 PM, mtaylor said:

Uh... Glowforge?  Not sure I can recommend them.  They've had too many issues.  They're more of a small craft hobby machine.    That may have changed.  There were issues over smoke removal as it was labeled as being able to be used one's kitchen... They also had the time, they the only way to "print/cut" was via an internet connection and not directly using a cable.  There was a file size limit and a "cut" time limit due to heat build up.  So they may be ok by now that they've gone into production.    I'll assume you've read all the amazon reviews, and other customer reviews?

 

That router looks interesting.  

 

 

Thanks Mark. Do believe what am going to get is the Carbide 3d Shapeoko xxl robust cnc router. It should be interesting and fun using it and making thing with it.  From what i see on the internet seems that you are 100 percent right about it the Glowforge that is.  Gary

Edited January 4, 2020 by garyshipwright

[mtaylor]

From here, it looks like the router could also be used similar to a laser cutter which would be a doubleplus good thing.

[SJSoane]

Gary, very clever way to make the hawse liner. I never thought of that. I was struggling with how to carve it in relief. Thanks so much for the idea, I continue to learn from you!

I was kind of guessing at how thick the liner should be, looking at photos from different directions. Did you ever find a specification regarding the thickness?

 

Best wishes,

Mark

[garyshipwright]

10 hours ago, mtaylor said:

From here, it looks like the router could also be used similar to a laser cutter which would be a doubleplus good thing.

I do believe that they make a laser  for it but don't think it is very powerful. gary

[garyshipwright]

Mark so far I have not found any specification for it. What I did find is one on the bolsters. It says that it is to go up to the middle of the Hawse hole, and go I believe it was either a inch/ inch and half over the edge of the lower cheek. Figure that it couldn't be to thin, the bolsters that is, so figure that maybe 5 or 6 inches thick on that and what ever is left over would be the liner,which would be 6 inches. Not set in stone good sir that is untill some one figures it out.  I set the bolster there but still have to thin it down a bit from the top of it to the edge of the cheek. Gary

Edited January 4, 2020 by garyshipwright

[archjofo]

Fantastic work !

[SJSoane]

Gary, it looks very convincing!

[garyshipwright]

Thanks Johann and Mark.  Coming from you guys, your word's just made my day a whole lot better. Gary

[druxey]

Bolsters appear to be about an inch or two thinner than the arm of the cheek that they sit on, Gary. See:

 

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66299.html

 

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66463.html

[garyshipwright]

4 hours ago, druxey said:

Bolsters appear to be about an inch or two thinner than the arm of the cheek that they sit on, Gary. See:

 

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66299.html

 

https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66463.html

Hi druxey. You are total right sir and models do show the bolsters sitting back from the edge a inch or two which I believe was done to make the models look good. I also think it was done with most model's, guess you could say the model builders used what we call today a little artistic freedom. ; o)  At least that is what I have seen when I look at most of them. Which to me looks a lot better then having it stuck out over the cheek it self.  On a different note, with it sticking out a inch or two over the edge, seem's it  would help the anchor rope with the bending and protect the cheek it self from being rubbed away and weaking it.  Any way thats my way of looking at it. I did find the infomation on this in a contract of 1782, which was also used to build the Bellerophon of 1805 and the book Scantlings of the Royal Navy ships page 224.  The contract and the book both say that the bolsters should come up at least two thirds and to project the cheeks 3/4 of a inch contract,  and the book gives it 1 3/4. Any way thats my story and am probably stick to doing them with a little artistic freedom, looks better. ;o)  I added a photo of the Warrior If any one is interested in seeing it.  Gary

Edited January 5, 2020 by garyshipwright

[druxey]

Thanks for that alternative view, Gary!

[garyshipwright]

Your very very welcome good sir. Gary

[garyshipwright]

Hi guys. Been awhile since my last update and after retiring I seem to be spending more time in the shop, that is until the honey do's come calling. Here is a small up date on her Hope you enjoy the photo's. Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SJSoane]

Gary, Magnificent!

 

Mark

[garyshipwright]

Thanks Mark. Hopfully it won't take me as long to get another update. Gary

[Alex M]

Hi Gary,

 

looks very good! I'm glad you work furhter on your Alfred! Please keep updates coming.

 

Alex

[Mark P]

Good Evening Gary;

 

She's coming on very well. Concerning the bolsters overhanging the cheeks, I have also seen the same instruction in several contracts. From what I remember, they always said 3/4 ", never 1 3/4"

 

But you and the others who mentioned this are right, I would say: it does look better set back slightly, and that is the most likely reason for it being that way on models.

 

All the best to you,

 

Mark P

[druxey]

Looking very nice indeed, Gary!

[BANYAN]

Looks very good Gary; funny how sometimes you don't seem to have enough hours in the day when you retire

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited May 4, 2020 by BANYAN

[garyshipwright]

Thanks guys your comments mean a lot to me and to all the likes to. Gives one the small slightly push to keep going , that is untill the misses says go cut the yard sweetheart,its getting a little tall. ;o) Gary

[mtaylor]

At risk of life and limb, you can tell her that you need to work on the ship as your loyal audience awaits.   

[garyshipwright]

Thanks Mark but she just may not go for it.  We will see. Gary

[garyshipwright]

Hi Guys. Being that today is my birthday, figure I would do a small update. This time its on the upper gun deck along with the tiller and the track which it runs in with making and installing beams, hanging and lodging knees that has to have a cast in them so they clear the gun ports.  As I said some place you have to fit 3 to four parts in place temporary in order to glue one part in permanently. Doesn't seem one gets much done  but has long as you are enjoying it or cares. Thanks guys hope you enjoy the photos. 

[dvm27]

Brilliant, Gary. That actually looks like it could be functional. Happy Birthday!

[SJSoane]

Hi Gary,

 

Happy birthday! Your arrangement for the transom at the stern looks very convincing. Well done.

I will not complain any more about how tedious is is to plank, when I see those crooked hanging knees!

Beautiful craftsmanship, as usual.

 

Best wishes,

 

Mark

[druxey]

A very happy birthday, Gary. And thanks for giving us the present of eye candy. Looks terrific!