HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class

[AON]

sorry guys

I deleted this post as I hadn't NAILED IT as the inside top is more flat than I had modeled.

"I'll be back"

 

 

[AON]

take two, or twenty two.

 

I've reworked the closed heart.

I've included a sliced or cross section view showing the shape is made of two ellipses (top and sides) and one circle (bottom) off one common centre (the black dot).

I added fillets (radii) to the bottom outside and inside corners to soften/blend the edges/contour.

 

I honestly think I have it this time.

[druxey]

Almost. Get rid of the sharp edges where the lanyard will run, or it will fray through in no time!

[AON]

done.

[AON]

and the open heart.

 

[AON]

Yesterday I completed modelling and creating drawings for all the blocks.  This includes the parrals which I had made a great error with.

 

I had not realized the different sizes of parrals had different diameter trucks to suit the different size ribs.  It is only logical but I was fixated on the one drawing I had found with dimensions.  It makes perfect sense why some trucks look like balls whereas others are elongated.

 

So for anyone interested the package is below as a PDF.

 

Today I go down to the shop.

Rigging Blocks.pdf

[druxey]

Quite the collection, Alan! Perhaps the groove for the line around the open hearts could be more semicircular, like you have on the closed hearts?

[AON]

sorry, I've been in the shop making three frames and preparing for 21 more.

(giving my vacuum cyclone separators a work out)

 

Do you mean the scores for the lanyard wraps?

 

[druxey]

No, the groove on the circumference of the open heart should be the same as you have on the closed one. However, the laniard and lashing grooves could also be eased around the bends quite a bit as well. Think in terms of not having any line taking a sharp turn.

[AON]

Druxey,

It should be easy to do.  I opened the file and tried to adjust things and it was a nightmare, so I started it over as a new file ... and it will need some trial and error adjustments as yet.

 

Everyone,

I got going on my first stepped frame.  N-Forward steps forward about 2-1/2 inches ( 0.04" at the build scale) to reach the upper gun port and receive the notches for the upper and lower cills as can be seen in the snip from the framing plans.

 

I found some flat washers I could use as supports while the glue set.  One side has been roughly filed down and needs to be finish sanded the last little bit.

 

Full disclosure, I originally forgot to step it even though I have it marked in BOLD RED on my plan.  Had to take it apart and redo the chock thicker to accommodate the step. 

[garyshipwright]

Hi Alan. When I was building my frames up for Alfred/Montagu I made all the pieces of that frame a little over size because of the parts being off set. Am not sure if you have a mill but I milled the pieces that were needed to be reduced in thickness,  much as you show above, which  had spacer's some times underneith to help keep every thing level. Those spacer's were glue to one side or the other with rubber cement and once ever thing was milled they could be removed and the cement rubbed off.  I increased the size of my table by clamping a piece of temper glass to support the whole frame. Cast  timber's were made thicker and then milled down with the help of thicker spacer's.  You can see the cast timber in the last photo label number 5 at the top. 

[AON]

Unfortunately I do not have a mill, nor do I have the room in my shop to add one.  Might consider moving a wall.  It would be the third time. 

 

I cut my 4x13 blanks from 4x6x60 inch castello boxwood stock, plane them to thickness (within reason), cut those pieces in half and rubber cement them into matching pairs.  I trace my timbers onto the top of one blank set and scroll saw the pieces out keeping well outside the line.  This gives me the port and starboard halves with one cut.  Then the curves are sanded to the line on a oscillating drum sander.  The flats are sanded to the line on my disc sander.  I wish there was a market for sawdust.

 

The pieces are dry fitted on top of the pattern (my drawing) and once satisfied I then separate the halves and yellow wood glue the frames, floor and chocks together.  This is done on the paper pattern, with the pattern under a thin plastic sheet, to assure everything is correct.  The assembly is allowed to dry and cure for just less than 24 hours (probably 20 hours) then attached (glued) to the build and allowed to set another 20+ hours before the next frame is glued next to it.

 

I have three frames at various stages going at once so I have less waiting time.

 

I was taught how to properly use rubber cement, and to cut two pieces at once by a member of our local club. 

 

Most everything else I learnt from this forum from people like you! 

 

All the mistakes I've made I learnt on my own.  

 

[AON]

Good morning Druxey (et al)

I finally got back to it.

Is this image more along the lines of what you would have expected?

Alan

[druxey]

Yup!

[AON]

For those interested, here are the updated open heart drawings

 

17 and 25 inch Open Hearts.pdf

[BANYAN]

Thanks Alan, I 'll keep a copy for future projects.  Much appreciated.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[AON]

I had six square frames installed... had to remove five of them and then alter my bow and stern supports as they were wandering again.

The Plexiglas inserts that slide into the notches was out of square.  I had secured it once before but apparently it didn't hold.

This time I added a brace across the top, and then drilled and screwed the sides.

It will never move again.

 

   

 

The frames are back up and aligned properly.

 

The next four frames are underway.

 

[MEDDO]

Definitely solid looking now 

[AON]

Did not get to the shop yesterday or today.

Had a crew over removing my eaves troughs and fascia.  Expected them back today to install the new, deeper, with leaf guard system... of course they didn't show up.

Worked on and printed a set of gears for my future rope walk.

They turned out quite good.

 

Then I worked on my 3D 9 pound gun carriage.  It is presently printing in wood filament.  It is quite small so I am not sure how it will turn out.

Could get the filament to feed through the 0.2mm nozzle so changed it to a 0.3mm nozzle and it seems to be working so far.

Nothing much yet to see on the printer so here is the slicer program image.

[druxey]

And it rained last night. Good timing, Alan! Gears look good.

[AON]

Yes, it was quite the down pour.  I had a little water in the basement in the furnace room due to a patio block sloping the wrong way and  possibly a crack in the wall.  I adjusted the patio block but could not find a crack.  Guess we will find out tomorrow as they are calling for more rain.

 

Below is the carriage as removed from the printer.  The supports have not been removed yet... it needs some clean up.

It measures 19.9 x 17.3 x .43 mm or .78 x .68 x .43 inches.

 

I will clean it up in a bit and set a 9 pound cannon barrel on it.

 

 

[AON]

Here it is cleaned up a bit with the short 9 pound cannon mounted.

I had not yet modelled the quoin into the assembly so the barrel is a bit high.

Happily the trunnions mate perfectly to the carriage.

The wood filament PLA material sand quite nicely with regular sand paper.

 

 

[druxey]

Gummy gun barrels??? Carriages look nice.

[AON]

I must admit at first glance they do sort of look like the chewable candy!  They were modelled and 3D printed for me by a member of our local club.  I posted all about it earlier last year I believe.

 

The carriage could use a little more cleaning up if I was using it... but it was a test piece.

 

I added the quoin to the computer model and am 3D printing four at once at this moment.  Should be done in about 2 hours at a material cost of 16 cents. That is $ Cdn 0.04 each

 

Going for my eye needle on Tuesday late morning so I will be working on 3D printing during the week.

Edited October 29, 2020 by AON

[AON]

after getting half way done my print failed yesterday.

will try again later today

[SardonicMeow]

If you're having printing trouble, you might consider breaking the design into multiple pieces and gluing the parts together afterwards.

[AON]

Yes that is an option if individual components will not print properly.  I created the model in components so I would have that option but it was not the problem.  The printer has sensors that alarm if it runs out of filament but not if the filament stops moving or feeding.

 

My problem was that nozzle clogged.  I installed a 0.4 mm nozzle and all four carriages were printed successfully.  The trucks (wheels) are a more perfect circle so I will stick with this size.  I've made 3D models for the other two size carriages and will print out one of each and fit them with a cannon before I print out all 28 of each.

 

Here is the result of yesterdays success.  They need more cleaning up but you can see how they turned out.  The slightly larger nozzle uses more material so the cost increased from 16 cents for 4 to 18 cents for for... still quite cheap.

 

 

[AON]

here you can see the build components in the Fusion 360 model

[AON]

Here are the three sizes of carriages with the four sizes of guns in place.

They fit quite nicely without any fiddling and fudging.

 

Gundeck: 28 each x 32 Pdrs (9'-6" long cannon)
Upper Deck: 28 each x 18 Pdrs (9'-0" long cannon)
Quarterdeck: 14 each x 9 Pdrs - Short (7'-6" long cannon)
Forecastle: 4 each x 9 Pdrs - Long (8'-6" long cannon)

 

They have been cleaned up slightly with pliers, scalpel, and a finger nail file.

I am awaiting the delivery of a new set of needle files so I can do a better job of it.

[AON]

The weather is beautiful and the leaves are falling.... six bags filled from raking, and the grass is cut for the last time this year.

 

I am just this moment printing the last set of four gun carriages.  They will need to be cleaned up but I will wait until my next eye needle  on December 1st as I won't be down in the shop for a few days afterwards.

 

Today I discovered something that defies explanation.

 

The printed template for the floor of my frame L-Forward is too long on one side.  But the PDF of the drawing from which they should have been printed is correct as you can see in the images below. This suggests I supplied the wrong PDF to the printer.  I cannot understand how the template was made wrong as the sketch on the 3D model was drawn on one side and mirrored to the other side, plus the original PDF is correct!  Definitely a head scratcher.

 

The above image is from the PDF and is correct.  I added the red lines to show the proper alignment from port to starboard.

 

Here you can see the incorrect floor (one side longer than the other) with the piece cut out from a tracing.

How could I not have seen this earlier???

 

I've traced the correct location onto the floor and will cut it back.

 

Luckily I traced the 1st futtock from the proper side of the template so they are cut correctly.

Edited November 6, 2020 by AON