HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class

[AON]

Roundhouse and quarterdeck clamps installed each in one length.

Steamed and clamped the forecastle clamps. They formed up quite nicely with twist and camber but the knuckle doesn't set against the hull so I will do them again with more clamps. I had propped them out at the bow with a spacer to accommodate spring back and that seemed to work for the most part.

 

Speaking of (spring) clamps to hold the wood strip deck clamps to the hull.  All mine are quite short and lack the reach needed for the upper deck at the bow and stern, the gun deck and the orlop deck (if I'm putting this in). I could make something to reach through the gun port which takes care of 80% of the clamping needs but what about the rest, and the orlop deck has no gunports to reach through. I found a YouTube video by an airplane modeler (key words for your search are "elastic band operated clamps") and decided to make a couple and see how they work. Once set they do not open one iota. I made a few modifications to how the elastic connects, the bar stop assembly and the clamp nose piece assembly (cotter pins) and my dowels are dry friction fitted so the whole thing can come apart if needed. They are made of hemlock with pine nose pieces and maple dowels. Extremely light and as they are a soft wood, if they topple over nothing gets damaged.  I estimated worst case I needed a 6" reach and they provide 8-1/2".  Now I'll likely make a couple narrower ones for nesting closer together, and a few much smaller to reach through the gunports.

Edited February 3, 2023 by AON

[Wintergreen]

Those clamps are clever. Looks similar to a couple old ones I have out in the shed bar without the reach.

Need to remember this. Thanks for sharing.

[No Idea]

1 hour ago, Wintergreen said:

Those clamps are clever. Looks similar to a couple old ones I have out in the shed bar without the reach.

Need to remember this. Thanks for sharing.

I agree they look very clever and thanks for sharing - I'm going to look further into these too.  

 

Talking of clamps - Looking at your deck clamps running out to the dogs legs I would have been very worried about breaking them off or damaging them in some way as they do look a bit vulnerable.  I mean you've done it and they look fantastic but I think I would have put some sort of cross support in first.  I just couldn't imagine putting any sort of pressure onto all of that lovely work.  Top job 👍

[AON]

You just had to put that out into the universe didn't you! 😳

 

It is easy being brave when you don't know better.

 

I'll fix them BOTH tomorrow.

 

 

 

[AON]

Two clamps removed and they've set perfectly.

 

The dog leg Frames are repaired.

The clamps will be glued in place this afternoon.

[AON]

I spent a considerable amount of afternoons this week working and reworking the stern timbers and beams to close it up.

When I came up today the wife asked: "how did it go?", and I responded: "I learnt so much today", and she said: "what went wrong?"

There's no pulling the wool over her eyes.

No photos until I master this part... or at least earn an "atta boy".

[AON]

Here is my problem...

The transom is rounded horizontally (out the stern) at different radii at various elevations, and also vertically (height), just to complicate things.

There is also a step in the outer side counter timber that becomes less deep as you approach the centre beam at which point it disappears completely.

I have my paper templates for the shapes but they just do not seem to fit into place when cut out in wood. If I get them located properly out the back they do not reach the wing transom.

I'll get nothing done this weekend, too many other things planned.

Next week I will have to make mock ups (cardboard and wood) to fit and better visualise the different pieces.

Once I can do this I can make them.

[druxey]

A photo would help us understand your problem, Alan. Of course the round up varies - why make it simple? Actually, that aesthetically makes the structure more elegant.

[AON]

I appreciate the elegance, not the seeming complexity.

I drew it in 3D years ago and of course it worked fine.

Somehow when cut in wood it doesn't quite fit up neatly.

Sorry, no photos for now, this will not beat me.

[AON]

It took longer than intended to get back to this but I have.

In this photo below you see that each level rises and also rolls outboard.  These dimensions are all different at each level.

I made outboard guides to rest my beams against. These have been PVA glued with a dot of glue on to my side counter timbers so they can easily be removed later. This are made in soft pine  so if anything should break off it will be the pine. I rubber cemented cardboard on the inside lip of the wing transom to act as a stop and hold the foot of the counter timbers from sliding inboard. I also rubber cemented a cardboard ledge protruding slightly inboard on the upper deck outboard support onto which the step in the timber can rest (you will see this later... baby steps). The underside of this piece has a radius upwards as the steps will rise with their relative position.

I will first make/fit cardboard templates in position to prove them. Then I will cut and fit the timbers in place...and build it up. Once I have it done I can make the inside beams to suit. With things going on in my life presently it might take a couple weeks.

 

All this might seem like a bit much but as I could not visualize the assembly to identify my problem this seemed a logical move to help me. I believe building it up and on the model will assure it is all correct.

 

Which brings me to my original problem that brought me here in the first place. I discovered with this process that I had transposed the up/out radii of the Roundhouse beam that interlocks with the counter timber tops. This caused the timbers to lean inwards at the top, pulling the timber foot out and off the wing transom. The dimensions don't seem like much at 1:64 scale but the moment arm or twist over the distance certainly was.

That mystery solved!

[SJSoane]

Hi Alan,

 

You might have a look at some conversations about this problem at my Bellona website.

 

In posting #173 (about page 6) and onward, is a discussion about the stern roundups. I found out years later in Steel's Naval Architecture that the roundups of the beams at the stern of the upper deck and quarterdeck are indeed intentionally higher than the standard beams further forward on each of these decks, for the aesthetic reason druxey described. These are faired in smoothly so the deck does not have a bump in it at any place; but it means that every beam from the stern to the point of fairing into the standard beams is a slightly different roundup. Sneaky! I kind of faked mine, making beams a little larger and then smoothing down the upper deck surface. I didn't understand why at the time, but got there in the end. I think....

 

In posting #198 and onward, I show a jig I made to manage all of the roundups and arrangements of the vertical stern timbers, to keep everything in place and symmetrical. A lot of work to make the jig, but then everything fell into place very quickly.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Mark

[AON]

Having discovered my error with the roundhouse beam I now find the timbers almost fit exactly correct per my drawings. They just needed a wee bit of fine tuning because of the slight differences between my drawings and my build.

 

So I now have the (long) stern timbers and most of the (short) counter and offset counter pieces made and dry fitted, two more short sets to go. Then I will fit the horizontal transom beams.  The two groups of three assembled timbers are presently rubber cemented together. These have been marked off to be cut to proper lengths after which they will be PVA glued together.  The tops are taller than they should be. These will be marked and trimmed after the roundhouse transom beam is made and fitted.

 

Below is an image from the original plans and a build update photo taken today.

 

Edited February 21, 2023 by AON

[AON]

Slowly getting there. Installed two short outer counter timbers as seen in the photo below, two more slightly longer ones to go.

 

I also made and installed the roundhouse counter beam. I made it to size, assuring I didn't transpose the radii which is easier done then one would want to admit, and then I marked off and chiselled a groove on the inboard side for the deck planks. I measured up 5-1/2", the height of the roundhouse beams and marked that, then measure up 2-1/2", the height of the deck planks and marked that.  Used a micro chisel to cut out a trough between the scribed marks.

 

This is different from the way I had done all my scrap pieces.  The plan shows the piece as having a nose extension that the deck runs under. I found these to make the part fragile with the counter timber notches cut in. This time I decided to assume a deck beam was under the nose and the whole thing was a bit stronger for it.

 

I'll get those last two short counter timbers made and installed and then do the quarter deck and upper deck counter beams. Then cut out the quarter gallery doorways.

Edited February 27, 2023 by AON

[druxey]

Looks like you have the beast tamed now, Alan! 

 

Aesthetics aside, the increased round-up was not only aesthetic, but also provided a valuable few inches of extra headroom in the cabins as well.

[AON]

I thought it was mainly for water runoff to direct it to either side.

[druxey]

No; as the ship rolls in the seas, water will run off just fine! You notice the beam scantlings get lighter on each successive deck. Increased round-up also resists vertical deflection to compensate for decreased cross-section. Clever, weren't they?

Edited February 28, 2023 by druxey

[AON]

Thanks Druxey.

 

The upwards bow is the same thing they do with truck bed frames.

 

[AON]

All the work above on the aft end of my ship build was quite a challenge, adding considerably to my scrap pile and I found myself walking away to think about things more than working on it.  As my best thinking has been proven to occur overnight and reveal themselves during my morning shower I needed to occupy my time during parts of the day when I was still stumped.

 

I decided to attempt my very first ever small boat and chose to try the smallest of them all that would be on this ship, the 18 foot cutter. As I mentioned before I had redrawn all my necessary small boat drawings to my build scale (1:64).

 

I followed David Anscherl's tutorial found in the NRJ vol 55-1 Spring 2010 and Druxey's 1:48 American Cutter build here on the MSW forum.

 

I made my 4" long plug blanks out of hemlock, a soft fir of which a have a good supply and my centre (vise clamping) board was MDF. The plug blank halves were two layers glued together with yellow PVA wood glue. All this was dry pinned together with small diameter dowels.

 

Edited March 9, 2023 by AON

[AON]

I rubber cemented the boat top and side profiles to the blank and rough cut the profile on the band saw.

I then chose five stations that I would shape the blank to. These would also be the stations I would initially install frames on the plug at.

I cut the profiles of these stations from my plan and rubber cemented them to card stock, then cut out the shape so they could be used to check my shaping.

I used a rasp, files, and then sand paper to blend it all.  Shaping the soft fir was very quick!

 

 

 

 

Edited March 8, 2023 by AON

[AON]

Next came the assembly of the stem post, apron, keel, stern post, knee, and transom.  These were made of Costello boxwood.  I made the apron and stem post as one assembly as David recommends, cutting, filing and sanding the stem post out of it.

 

[AON]

The plug was given multiple white wash coats of GESSO acrylic paint that were rubbed in. The keel and post assembly was fitted and the layout of the strakes were marked on with a pencil.  Then grooves were cut, chiselled and sanded into the plug for the frames or ribs.

Then I did something different.

David holds the top end of the frames to the plug with a drop of glue.  I'd seen others use a plate with holes that the frames pass into and they glue it to that. I decided to do this. I made a base plate the fitted onto the centre board with a keyhole slot (tab A into slot B kind of thing). This was held snugly against the plug with a pin (nail) through a hole in the centre board. Then using a pin vise I drilled dimples into the base plate at the rib locations. Took it apart and then drilled the holes through the base plate. This way the free end of my frames would be inserted into the holes and glued at the holes.

 

 

Edited March 8, 2023 by AON

[AON]

The plug was then given multiple coats of beeswax, brushed on with a cotton swab and rubbed well!  This is in hopes that any glue spillage or seepage will not cause the boat shell to be stuck to the plug. I admit this was a worry as it happened to Druxey in his build here on MSW!

 

Steamed maple frames were installed. A drop of glue fixed them to the keel assembly and another drop held them to the base plate.

 

Next was to install the strakes, beginning with the garboard strake on one side, then the other side. Always alternating to keep the build in balance.

Using a strip of transparent tape I copied the profile and transferred it to my stock.

My strakes are hemlock.  Admittedly an odd choice, but I wanted to use this material on my build somewhere besides the false keel. They are 0.03" thick, about 2" at full scale.  This is thicker than they should be but it was what I was comfortable using and no one will be taking a vernier to my build. I cut the strake out of the blank with a #11 scalpel following the lines and then lightly sanding it he edges smooth

I had steamed this in an old rice steamer and bent them in place with a small piece of the same material stuck between the strake and the plug at half span in the hopes this would eliminate spring back, which it almost did completely.  Once dry I removed it, applied Weldbond glue and put it back with clamps. I chose to use Weldbond as it dries clear and sets up considerably quicker then yellow or white PVA. 

Edited March 8, 2023 by AON

[AON]

This procedure was repeated for the other side and then again for all other strakes except for all others I cut outside the line on the top side as the cutter is clinker built, the strakes overlap. I made all strakes in one piece as they are only about 18 feet long. Also I used the barrel of my soldering iron to bend all other strakes (other than the two garboard strakes).  My soldering iron is also a wood burning iron, depending on what tip you screw into it, but the barrel gets hot and it is about 4" long and 3/4" diameter, and temperature is thermostatically controlled.  However, I did have two break but I am not worried about that as it will eventually be painted white.

Edited March 8, 2023 by AON

[AON]

Eventually it was done.  I cut the frames from the base plate in preparation for the next step.

Then came the moment of truth.

Would the shell separate from the plug cleanly?

At first it would not budge and I was worried. 

How much force could I apply before it would be destroyed?

 

And then when I wasn't expecting it, it just popped off clean and in one piece.

It does need a little cleaning up but I am quite happy with it; my first ever small boat.

I imagine when I get the last one done it will be slightly better!

Now I can putter away at the details, adding the gunwhale/rubber, washstrake, missing frames, riser, thwarts, bench, rudder, tiller....

 

Edited March 8, 2023 by AON

[AON]

OH, and I did get all the short outer counter timbers installed as can be seen below.  They are all a bit taller than necessary and I have some sanding to do but it is done.

Once this is cleaned up I'll get the upper deck clamp installed and the quarter deck and upper deck counter beams made, notched for the timbers and installed.

Then I can cut out the quarter gallery doorways and install the sills.

and then..... the list continues.

[Wintergreen]

Congratulations on the success with your first ever small boat!

My first try went into the bin for reference.

 

Keep it up!

[Beef Wellington]

Thankyou for sharing your approach Alan, you've convinced me that this may be a possibility for me in the future....and congrats on your article in the Nautical Research Journal!

[AON]

I made my quarter deck counter beam (twice) and installed it (once).

Working on my short clamps to install the aft portion of the upper deck clamps so I can then make and install that deck counter beam.

Meanwhile I have been slowly adding frame timbers to my small boat....

and I modelled, 3D printed and painted a nameplate for the model.

It is in 3 parts. The main piece with image, a bevelled stand for it, and a ribbon.

After cleaning the pieces up (scraping away stringers and sanding) I shaped the figure by chiselling away the corners, sanding again, cutting in the mane and tail hair, and I added raised details with well placed drops of Weldbond on the wings to give more definition.

 

Then I added the javelin and it's head. They are made of bamboo and lift away from the base plate to give more interest. The head is glued to the shaft. These parts were too small for my filament printer. I used a PLA/Wood mix filament.

I chose the transom painting scheme for the main part with the lettering in gold. The ribbon in cherry red with white lettering.

Bellerophon himself is the only part unpainted but his helmet is gold with a white plume and his cloak red.

Now if I decide to take the model to either of the two local events to show this summer I have a nameplate.

Edited March 22, 2023 by AON

[AON]

The outside temperature rose to almost 20°C today. If this keeps up it is going to be difficult locking myself down in the basement workshop.

 

I have a number of small clamps made to allow me to install my gundeck deck clamps.

 

I have also been working on getting closer to completing my first small boat.

Items installed include the floor boards, benches, thwarts, mast bracket, knees, breasthook, gunwhale, washstrake and sweep (oar) crutch or pocket reinforcing pieces both inboard and outboard.

Things left to do include cutting in the sweep (oar) crutches or pockets, tiller and rudder, gudgeons and pintles, and the sweeps or oars.

Not sure if I will paint her or leave her raw.  I kind of like the raw look.

 

Edited April 10, 2023 by AON

[bruce d]

14 minutes ago, AON said:

Not sure if I will paint her or leave her raw.  I kind of like the raw look

It's gorgeous, it would be a shame to cover up that wood and the joints.

(In my opinion)