HMS Victory by clearway - Billing Boats - 1/75

[Bill Morrison]

Beautiful work!  

[clearway]

Thanks again for the kind words, likes and taking a peek. Emmett i trim the planks as needed afer removing from the water and then using thumb and fingers tease them to shape then pin and glue them to the hull using either P.V.A. or woodworking adhesive- i dont take the pins/ nails out for at least 24 hours, but if using brass nails to fasten the planks will leave them in for a few days before pulling them (hope that makes sense). 

 

Back to the beast and rigged the t'gallant cluelines and sheets, tidied some of the rigging and painted the mainyard while starting to attach some of the blocks and truss lines- put it on the laptop to show how long the main/ fore yards are (stuns'l booms not in place yet).

take care all

 

Keith

[Emmet]

Thanks for the details. It will be a great help this summer when I get the Victory.

Boy those blocks are really tiny!  Are the lines 3 or so mm?

[clearway]

Hi Emmet, the thread is 1mm diameter- the two fittings in the middle are actually wooden eyes that the trusses pass through to hold the yard to the mast- the blocks on the end of the yard are 5mm and 6mm- the larger blocks you see on the mizzen are 5mm and the smaller 3mm. the mainyard is 400mm long.

 

Keith

[Emmet]

Great!  It makes me look much harder at your work.   

You had me looking up the word truss on ships.  Yes the Egyptians started using rope trusses-smart dudes they were.  It had to do with the boat riding over waves and not breaking in half.  I will be giving that a harder read later. https://nautarch.tamu.edu/class/316/dashur/  and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss

I was looking for those wooden eyes and realize you probably have not installed any yet. 

I was thinking I mentioned 3 mm but afterward I thought that would be an awfully large rope.  Even 1 mm seems large to a scale of 1:75-but perhaps 3" (American) is not too big for a rope truss.  My brain has trouble with big dimensions in MM.

[Emmet]

On 7/28/2014 at 3:39 AM, clearway said:

Decided to have a go at the window frames using the self adhesive paper method (franking labels) cut into 0.5mm strips- boy it was fun!

Firstnpacking strips were added same thickness as acetate.

Acetate was glued in place with humbrol "clear windows" then strips attatched.

gonna be fun painting these!

also did some work on the bows.

The admiral snook this shot of me working alfresco saying is that hms victory between your legs or are you just glad to see me!

Keith

It seems almost impossible to bend the planks on the stern so sharply. Then having them fit into the rabbet cut so well.  You have been at this stuff a long time and it shows.

[clearway]

the wooden fittings in the middle of the main yard are thimbles for trusses - see pic regards trusses for yards on ships like victory.

 

hope that helps, and yes been doing this for around 35 years!

 

Keith

[Emmet]

You must have a long Captain's beard and yes the drawings do help.  It is fun to have someone to emulate because I do aim to my very best.  I kept looking for those little cylindrical eyes. Here I see a substitute.  But I do get the idea of trusses.

Pretty exciting stuff.

[clearway]

thanks again for having a look and comments- progressing slow but sure- got the main yard attached (just via the sling at the moment), and rigged the t'gallant lifts though not tied off/ belayed yet- never thought i was ever going to get to this stage!

take care all and keep up the good work everyone.

 

Keith

[petervisser]

Hi Keith,

Your model is looking fantastic! Have you been able to use all the Billing fittings or have you had to resort to buying third party fittings? Having built a few of their kits myself, I have made due with what they supply but sometimes resort to poaching bits and pieces from other kits I have that are still in the box. I am tempted to purchase the Billing Victory myself. Your model makes it very tempting...

Cheers,

Peter

[clearway]

Ty for the positive comment Peter- i have resorted to scratch building, buying in extra fittings and delving into my odds n sods stash left over from previous builds!

If you go back to page two and work forwards i have made a note of where i have bought in extra fittings + manufacturer who makes them.

 

Ty all for looking in.

 

Keith

[clearway]

Thanks for looking in all- bit more progress- got the main yard truss pendants rigged and the stop cleats in place on the main topyard (will trim the bamboo treenails flush when glue dried).

Thinking 200 moves ahead i didn't actually glue the rail in front of the mainmast in permanently yet as i knew i would need access there. Sometimes pays to just sit infront of the model you are building and mentally skip to future possible headaches!

As an aside for you steam buffs out there the family went to the Keighley and worth valley railway spring gala on march 7th which was our last day out before the lockdown-

 

take care all 

 

Keith

[Emmet]

On 5/14/2014 at 3:38 AM, clearway said:

if only those nice people at billings had supplied planks 30mm longer. These will be removed between 2 to 3 frames in and replaced.

datum lines so i can find all those holes again!

all the major planking in. next is to replank the transom- happy days!

Keith

Hi Keith 

We are heading home through a mass of tornadoes-Florida can be a crazy place, Southeast US is not any better, perhaps worse.

I am going through your build and studying each picture.

At any rate I was wondering how you remove the brass pins and what are the dimensions of the pins?

[clearway]

Safe journey Emmet- the brass pins are around 10mm long (the type you see supplied with a lot of model boat kits), i remove the with a pair of side cutters- not really suitable if a natural wood finish is required though.

 

just a lil progress today with the main yard jeer blocks rigged though not tied off yet.

Take care all and thanks for looking in.

 

Keith

[Emmet]

17 hours ago, clearway said:

Safe journey Emmet- the brass pins are around 10mm long (the type you see supplied with a lot of model boat kits), i remove the with a pair of side cutters- not really suitable if a natural wood finish is required though.

 

just a lil progress today with the main yard jeer blocks rigged though not tied off yet.

Take care all and thanks for looking in.

 

Keith

Hmmm originally I had used 5 mm brass pins on tapered part of 1.5 mm planks and pulling them seemed hairy so I stopped.  I will reconsider and be more careful pre-drilling. Let me see about a smaller pair of side cutters.  I was showing a friend your rigging work and told him I only have to live to be 117 to be that good. HAH  

[clearway]

it comes with practice Emmet- it is hairy pulling the pins, the side cutters i use have blades around 10mm long.

 

gieb8688 asked for some bowshots to show run of main stays- the mainstay (lower one) passes through the marines catwalk through holes in the knightheads, a hole in the stem then back up to the heart- the preventer stay (upper rope) passes through the catwalk as well then goes round the bowsprit then back up to the heart.

 

hope this helps

take care all

 

keith

 

Edited April 25, 2020 by clearway
missed info

[Emmet]

Thanks Keith,

I found wire cutters with a a 6 mm opening and 11 mm blades. Will buy when I get home.  I may have to use a lever when prying but that is not a problem.

[OldMart]

Hi Keith. Very nice build. I thought about the Victory, however before I get the full kit I have just sent for a bow section from Mantua models to do along side my Cutty Sark. Start off small and see how I go, hope I do half as good as you, then I may consider the full Monty. once again very nice work, I'm beginning to feel very amateurish lol. Take care Martin

 

[clearway]

they should do emmet- i get as close to the tip of the cutters as possible push down on the wood around the head as the wood will dive a little then grip the head and pull 180 degrees in the opposite direction to original nailing if that makes sense- you will need to fill and sand back some afterwards- or you could get a punch and drive the nails deeper, but filling will still be needed.

 

thanks for the positive comment mark (they do help😁)  keep going as practice makes it easier- this is my first man'o'war kit as most of the models i have built have been 19th century schooners, clippers or steam ships (tugs, dredgers etc) as well as fishing boats.

 

Keith 

Edited April 26, 2020 by clearway
missed info

[Emmet]

It would be best to pull the nails.  I think the nail will do fine. A small piece of wood under the cutter should get it done. One does not realize that tools like this one are out there. I have a few different kind of cutters but not that one.

It would be fun if you would show some of those boats.

I have always worked by myself but getting into the model ship business came at an opportune time.  My brain spends a lot of hours reading and working. 

[clearway]

Hi Emmet you will find a way that suits you- if you look in the completed build gallery you will see my cutty sark, mary ann, norden and fd10 yawl (all billings)

 

Keith

[clearway]

Thanks for comments likes and taking a look all. the main topyard is now finished and ready for paint and varnish- as with mainyard will leave stuns'l booms till later.

also a shot of work so far

also for Emmet a shot of my scratchbuilt model of the coal fired grab dredger Clearway- she remained with her coal fired steam engine until mothballed in 1993- was sold for scrap in 1998.

 

need to finish the crane gantry so might be a build log in scratchbuilt ships in the future😉- also really need to sort out my mancave!!!!!

 

take care all

 

Keith

 

Edited April 26, 2020 by clearway
typo

[Emmet]

1 hour ago, clearway said:

Thanks for comments likes and taking a look all. the main topyard is now finished and ready for paint and varnish- as with mainyard will leave stuns'l booms till later.

also a shot of work so far

also for Emmet a shot of my scratchbuilt model of the coal fired grab dredger Clearway- she remained with her coal fired steam engine until mothballed in 1993- was sold for scrap in 1998.

 

need to finish the crane gantry so might be a build log in scratchbuilt ships in the future😉- also really need to sort out my mancave!!!!!

 

take care all

 

Keith

 

Scratchbuilt sounds like something I will do in the hereafter or perhaps my deams.

[clearway]

thanks for the comments and views everyone- got the main topyard painted and varnished and rigged the main yard lifts - soooo glad i didn't glue that rail infront of mainmast in place yet!

 also rigged the halliards to the main mast breast stays- not sure if i got it right with the mainyard lifts but billings just had them belayed to the pin rail!

take care all and have fun.

 

Keith

 

[clearway]

thanks as always to anyone who has commented, liked or popped in for a look around. just looking at the start date for the log and thought ouch where the six years go-  woooooshhhhhhhhh!😵.

 

got the main topyard in place today- slowly but surely getting there. still need to properly rig the tyes (just held in place by the blocks at the mo)

take care all

 

Keith

 

[Matthew Kassebaum]

So I have never built a ship but a few days ago I purchased this same kit due to arrive next Wed. Im excited to say the least. Ive built plenty models..but never undertook a ship.

[clearway]

hello Matthew thanks for visiting- hope this build log helps, though i would recommend building something easier to get the feel of it first as it is a monster to work on🥴.

 

Keith

[clearway]

slow but steady progress- the topyard parrell rigged 

and the topyard tyes (not belayed yet)

 

take care all

 

Keith

 

[Kevin]

very very nice

 

[Jeff-E]

You are doing a wonderful job on her Keith, lovely work.👍