Triton by Pete38 - 1:48 - cross-section

[Pete38]

Aykutansin...thank you for looking in and the nice comment

 

Antony.....thank you also for the nice comment and looking in. This is my first scratch build {any build actually...only about a fourth of the way through the Sultana kit from Model Expo}

                Could not kit into the "kit" for some reason. may return to it later.

                 I might just leave part of the frames exposed....like you said  "pulls much more interest into the model"

 

Since I will be try to do the deck beams of the model before installing, decided to go ahead and bend the camber into the beams.

Set up my old cake pan I use for steaming wood that I need. brought it up to a low boil and let simmer for about 30 minutes with a weight to keep them covered in water

 

 

Then but them into a jig to try for at least 24 to 36 hours, to make sure they are dried enough and hold their camber.

 

 

 

While these are drying will work on some other thing on the model

 

Thanks for looking in and any comments or suggestion are more than welcome {good or bad}

[Long9Ron]

I agree with Antony. The frames looks very nice. Great work.

[Pete38]

Thanks Ron, appreciated the comments....

[rafine]

I like your frames as well, Pete, but you have to decide how much, if any, you will leave unplanked. I left only a small section, while others have left large areas or none at all. You only have to please yourself.

 

Bob

[AntonyUK]

Hi Pete.

Another way to put camber into your beams is to cut then horizontal across but keep them in pairs

Then glue them together with the required camber making sure they are in the same pairs.

If kept in pairs no one can tell that they have been cut.

This can also help if cutting rebates as you only need to cut the top one.

 

I have used this method a few times.

 

Regards Antony.

[Paddy]

Pete,

Like your approach. Did you cut your center lift over size a bit.

[Pete38]

Thanks for looking in and the comments

 

Paddy....yes I added about 25% extra on the height to compensate for any spring back. 

[Pete38]

Just remembered my beams were still clamped up so took them out...Should be dry by now 

 

They held the camber pretty well...I'm happy with them

 

 

Now for a question????

 

Do the beams go all the way from frame to frame or is there planking between the frames and the beam ends? I must be overlooking something because I am seeing it both ways.

 

In this drawing it shows them going from frame to frame

 

In this one is show a plank behind the beams\

 

If they do go from beam to beam do you just use small filler planks between them

 

Hope this is not to confusing for you to understand because it is for me.

Thanks for any reply and help.

 

 

[Rustyj]

Hi Pete.

 

Here is a picture of how I did mine. I ran mine in a single piece from one end to the other.

Don't know if it's correct but it worked well.

 

 

 

I also see I need a bit of filler at the lower beam!  Damn macro pictures!  

Edited August 8, 2013 by Rustyj

[Pete38]

Thanks for the quick reply Rusty....correct or not that looks like a good way to do it. Makes sense that you would have something to attach the beams to besides the framing...frame spacing may not come out to you beam spacing every time. 

 

Maybe we should go back to the old Polaroid Land Cameras....not so much detail shows up    

[russ]

The beams go all the way to the frame. There is no plank in between the end of the beam and the frame. The beams are attached to the beam shelf below.

 

Russ

[Pete38]

Thank you Russ for that information. That helps alot

[Rustyj]

Aghhh I had a 50 50 chance and as usual went the wrong way.  

[Pete38]

Went to the shop to start fitting the beams. Layed out the first one and cut and fitted between the frames as stated above by Russ.

 

Everything was look good----so I thought  

 

I had measured the width of the beams and cut correctly...from the 1:48 plans I had for reference....not the 1:32 plans I am using....

 

Those go to the scrap bin for latter use and re cut and steaming the correct one now.  Just one more small setback in the dockyards.

 

So will start fitting tomorrow....

[Rustyj]

Oh that's a "been there done that" moment!   

[mtaylor]

Pete,

I think that's more common than any of let on...    If I were  you, I'd take the 1:48 plans and put them somewhere else.  I ran into a similar issue on my current build.  Had two sets of plans and one was distorted enough to cause me grief. I put them away and am sticking to one set. 

[Boccherini]

Accompanied by the sound of teeth grinding and muttering under the breath. On a positive note......practice makes perfect. I developed the habit of measuring or making templates directly from the model, because of the previously mentioned difference between it and the plans. Saved some frustration.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Paddy]

 ........ Just one more small setback in the dockyards.

 

So will start fitting tomorrow....

 

Man, we have to watch those dockyard blokes all the time. I almost have a permanent cloud of blue smoke over my head with my crew but then as you I press on. 

[rafine]

As everyone has said, "welcome to the club". I'd love a dollar for every similar thing I've done.

 

Bob

[Pete38]

Thanks for all the encouragement, as stated above the 1:48 plans have been stored away under lock and key  then threw away the key

Will continue on with correct plans. 

[Pete38]

New beams have been bent and temporary installed on x-section for marking.

 

 

Drilled through frames and used straight pins to hold beams....will be planked over later to cover holes

 

 

 

Layed out most of the cross beams while main beams were on the x-section. May be hard to see the lines

 

 

Started cutting the cross beams to length..used scrap wood on miter to prevent any tear out when cutting to length.. 

Decide to use clamps to hold wood while cutting....[to close to moving blade for my fingers]

 

Here is my set up......maybe it may help someone later on. Pictures should explaing

 

 

 

 

 

Back to the shop for more sawdust  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AntonyUK]

Hi Pete.

Wow looking real good

You have been reading up on cutting on a saw. Yes that's a good method. And a safe way.

Jiging is always the best way if cutting more then a few pieces of the same size.

 

Regards Antony.

[Paddy]

Looking good Pete and thanks very much for posting the saw setup photos.

[russ]

Pete:

Why did you drill through the frames to hold the beams?

 

Russ

[Pete38]

Thanks Antony and Paddy for looking in.

 

Russ...it seemed like the best way to temporarily hold the beams in place without anything being in the way of laying out out the lines I needed??

[russ]

Hmm. The beams were fastened down through the shelf upon which they sit. That would be the best place to pin them. Saves you the work of going through the frame.

 

Russ

[rdsaplala]

Hi Pete,

 

Just catching up with your beautiful Triton build, very precise and clean work, Sir, she's looking great

[Pete38]

Small update.... I continues with the deck beams and started cutting the notches....

Then is when I realized I had fixed the problem with the wrong scaled plans  1/48 vs 1/32...but I guess I need to start reading the"BIG BOLD LETTERS"

at the bottom of each page...... I was using the Gun Deck layout instead of the Lower Deck layout........This turned out okay because I am tossing all the beams and cross beams

made so far and starting over with new ones....I did not like the way they were turning out....very sloppy work and the joints not looking good

 

Here is an example of the offending joints

 

 

Once I get more done I will hopefully post some pictures with better results

 

Dain it.....Rusty and Rafine have set a very high bar for the x-section...Glad I have their build logs for reference...

 

[Kevin]

Small update...with summer not much time to work on the cross section.....just a little at a time

Since I decided to go with cherry for the treenail.....don't know if this was a good idea or a really stupid one 

Got down to making me some

 

First I had to make a zero clearance insert for my saw...did not have any aluminium or plastic so I used cherry

 

P1020654.JPG

 

ripped some cherry strips down to about .040  square

 

P1020651.JPG

 

P1020652.JPG

 

Then started pulling them through my draw plate. Taking them down to about .023 in size. This is smaller in scale than it should be at 1:32 but with them

be so much darker than the maple the will not look like the section has a bad case of the measles....I hope 

 

P1020653.JPG

 

So now it is time to set back turn on the music and PULL for awhile

why do you set a zero tolerance on the blade, is it to help feed the stock wood through and stop it sagging, or help avoid any blade movement?

Edited September 19, 2013 by Kevin

[Pete38]

Kevin....

     Since I was ripping the stock down to a very narrow width  (.040)  the zero clearance was to support the stock and keep it from falling down into the saw between the blade and the insert....

Edited September 19, 2013 by Pete38