HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit

[DaveRow]

Back in the Shipyard,

As I had mentioned in my post #396, have started on the Bowsprit.

 

I made the side Bee Blocks with a sheave(for topmast stay) in each side and the 2 x Bees(top cover plates).

The Cap has been fitted(bit thick and needs thinning down).

Rebates on either side for the Bee Block to slot into.

 

 

 

Bee Blocks in place, the 2 holes for emergency stays drilled, waiting for glue to dry.

 

The right Bee Block top tapered for the Bee(angled)

 

Bees glued in place.

 

Under the head, holes and sheaves.

 

Tried my best to line the parts up symmetrical.

 

Lots more to do.

 

Dave R

[BANYAN]

Very neat work Dave; looks spot-on!  How did you cut the square hole for the boom through the cap?  it is an excellent fit, I had a lot of difficulty with that.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[dashi]

Wow that is looking neat Dave.

[DaveRow]

Very neat work Dave; looks spot-on!  How did you cut the square hole for the boom through the cap?  it is an excellent fit, I had a lot of difficulty with that.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Hello Pat,

I mark the hole outline I need either side, score the hole(square 4mm x 4mm this one was) with scalpel to get a neat edge. 

I use the surgical scalpel to first do a neat square cut down about the edges, excavate a mm or bit more deeper, take care not to go past the edges.

Then use a small round engraving bit(on me Dremel) to excavate through from either side, not all the way to the sides though.

Then back to the scalpel, square the sides up through to other side. Work from both ends of the hole, make the hole really neat and accurate. It took me a few goes early on to get this down pat.

The pin end(to go in).

I first make the pin end(square) oversize and whittle it down bit by bit so it fits neat. Test fit heaps of times.

The trick is to shape the end that fits the far side first(the end you see, test fit it), then do not take any more off the end.

Takes a while, but neat fit, >> if all goes well.

 

Shaved the Cap this morning on the bench sander a bit thinner. Cap came up a treat. Better than I expected.

 

I just used my new Lathe for first time to turn up the Jib Boom. Excited....

 

 

Dave R

[RGL]

Nice work Dave

[DaveRow]

Back in the Shipyard - Bowsprit.

Managed to get some more work out of the yard.

 

Setting up the Jib Boom on the cradles, yes I have an extra one for the longer bowsprit.

Fore one for normal outboard sailing, lashed down.

The rear one for when retracted.

 

 

Woolding and Hoops(from double wound black cardboard, can you tell ?)

I have added additional woolding as has the AMM Endeavour Replica.

 

Rear Fairlead Saddle and rear Jib-boom saddle(for when it is retracted all the way back), woolding and more iron hoops.

 

Took the gamble and directly applied some Oak Stain on the cap end of the Bowsprit.

Both yards I will stain oak.

 

Their is a mass of eyes, blocks and lines around the Bowsprit( and Bow. Doing my best to identify all the eye bolts and drill holes for them now, than later on when 'B' fitted.

 

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Thanks to all you guys(gals ?) who follow my posts.

 

Your likes and usual positive comments provide the inspiration, and the effort I put into the shipyard construction worthwhile.

 

I am now moving into the 3 year of this project.

My shipyard workers have not had to strike once due to my excellent working conditions and pay(not that they(me) have a choice hee ! hee !). 

I sometimes get asked by those who visit the shipyard(at home) "how much longer will it take to finish". ?

? I ask myself the same ? Not 10 years...

 

 

Dave R

[shipaholic]

Hi Dave

I have been going almost six years on mine!

Cheers Steve

[DaveRow]

Back in the Shipyard - Bowsprit.

First up a close up of the pulley in the process of being sized up into the Jib Boom end.

 

Just about happy with the Bowsprit - a longer version than that in the AOTS.

This one is 50mm longer to align(straighten) the main mast fore-stay. Taken a while to add all the bits and pieces to it.

I used an oak stain to the timber, bit patchy, see what I can do to even out the dark/light. Then a seal coat of clear over everything. 

 

Back end, woolding, hoops and cleats. 

 

Jib Boom in outboard position

 

Jib Boom in retracted position.

 

I am aiming to add a U shape to the fore-stays, over the jib boom like in the Victory Bowsprit, to allow the boom retract back.

 

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Locked indoors with the weather no so good outside.

Offers time to progress some smaller items up on the Bowsprit.

 

Jackstaff, rebated into the cap and into down into the right bee.

 

Knightheads, sheet block between each(like the replica) for the sheets to run through.

I drilled 2 larger holes for them to run through.

I just realised the lower 1(for the yard sling block ? not sure ?) of the 3 eye-bolts probably should be lower.

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Dave question, is it the photo or does the bowsprit have a curve at the bow end ?

Hi Paul,

Good eyes Paul.

 

The back end(on the deck) has a slight curve.

From the Knightheads forward it is straight.

That is how mine is.

 

In the AOTS, p90 the Bowsprit has slight curve at the rear.

I needed the back end curved a little bit more to clear the bumpkin bracket p75 AOTS.

 

 

Dave R

[BANYAN]

Nice work Dave, coming on a treat.  The woldings look very neat.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

The shipyard has been taking care of a couple of small items.

 

Scuppers: 3 per side, one with a hose so the AOTS indicates.

The starboard side ones >>

One with hose.

 

2 others, plain pipe

 

 

Rudder Coat:

The black flange(third one I made) is plastic with black paint over it.

Thanks to Greg Lester, I used same foil wrap for the coat, painted brown.

 

Close up photos show up all sorts of scratches, dint's, dirt, imperfections etc.

 

Next > onto the Anchors.

I ordered some anchors from Cornwall Model Boats, which have arrived.

Another post another time..

 

 

Dave R

[dashi]

Hi Dave,

I was wondering about doing a rudder coat myself but thought it to difficult so you have now inspired me to reconsider. So a very neat job there Dave including those scuppers.

 

Cheers

Edited June 8, 2016 by dashicat

[BANYAN]

Those photos can be both a boon and a bust  Sometimes it is useful to see some issues that are not readily visible so that you can fix them, but they also can make your work look more slip-shod than it actually is  Don't worry i think your doing a spot-on job (you must have those shipwrights and riggers well trained)

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited June 8, 2016 by BANYAN

[donrobinson]

Pat is so right in what he says, and your ship IS looking great!!

[DaveRow]

Anchors.

The "story" so far.

 

The Corel Kit of the Endeavour came with 2 Anchors. 2 of the same, hardly large enough, wrong shape(style) to be the main Sheet or Bower Anchors. Typical of this kit, throw something in, that will do. 

 

 

So I wish to show the type and size of Anchors that Cook had on the "Endeavour"(like many of other builds) on the model, .

The AOTS indicates 4 types of anchors.

• Sheet
• Bower
• Stream
• Kedge

Each looks of a similar style. Distinct features, shank, flukes.

AOTS states "The standard compliment of anchors for a ship of 350 tons like Endeavour was 3 bower, 1 stream, and 1 kedge. However Cook's journal speaks of several spare Anchors were carried.

Now I found with some research on the "Web" some time ago, the following drawing of "Captain Cook's Anchor"(and I am peeved as I cannot find the web address where I found it), found and retrieved from Endeavour Reef(Cape Tribulation, Queensland, where the ship went aground in 10 June 1770. The dimensions match the size for a Small Bower Anchor.

 

 

The AOTS indicates the anchor arrangements of:

Starboard: Sheet anchor forward with small bower astern(behind)

Port: Best Bower anchor forward with Stream anchor.

 

So the "kit" anchor is not the correct type. Has curved fluke arms.

 

I sourced a fair match to type and size, of anchors from a reputable source. All were indicated to be the same style(shafts and flukes).

49cwt (74mm shaft) good enough with some mods for the Sheet and Best Bower Anchors up front.

21cwt (54mm shaft) good enough with some mods for the Stream anchor.

However the 20cwt(for the Small Bower is different style)   not happy.

 

 

The 20cwt, wrong style(no flukes and shafts different), I was hoping to use as a Small Bower, no way I can use it.

 

 

So no answer to my complaint from supplier.

Ordered another 49cwt(which I reckon I can modify as a Small Bower), see what comes in 2 weeks time.

 

In the mean time, move onto something else.

 

 

Dave R

[Beef Wellington]

Dave - what are you not happy with on the 20cw anchor?  There should be two flat white metal flukes inside the packet which need to be glued on, I suspect because it gives more clean definition than molding the whole in one piece.  I lost one of the flukes (my fault) and very simply made another from card, painted you can't tell the difference. 

Edited June 10, 2016 by Beef Wellington

[DaveRow]

Dave - what are you not happy with on the 20cw anchor?  There should be two flat white metal flukes inside the packet which need to be glued on, I suspect because it gives more clean definition than molding the whole in one piece.  I lost one of the flukes (my fault) and very simply made another from card, painted you can't tell the difference. 

Hi Jason,

The 20cwt, > no flukes inside the packet I received.

 

My beef was that(beside the flukes) the main shank, and fluke arm cross sections are not the same style as the other 2 types I received. All 3 were indicated as the same style, used the same picture on the web site.

 

I'm not really concerned about the cost, it is providing an item that is inconsistent with that advertised.

 

And as Forest Gump said "and that is all I have to say on that"

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Whilst waiting for some new Anchors to arrive, I decided to do a bit of work on the Bower Anchor stocks.

 

I marked out the hole pattern, for where the pins are to go:

Bower Stock: drilled the pin holes.

Stream, left marked as is for now.

 

Slid in the Anchor Stock to see how it will look.

 

Both Bower Anchors: tapered the stock ends, stock end hoops fitted.

Will add 2 middle hoops later.

 

The stock halves are parted with temporary packers.

The stock halves should stay this way. 

According to "Steel's Anchor Making"

It is necessary to leave an opening in the middle of one inch and a half, between the two pieces, that the hoops may be driven nearer the middle, in case the stock should shrink.

 

 

That's all for now.

 

Dave R

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Looking great Dave. Are you going to blacken the brass??havagoodone mate

Greg

[DaveRow]

Looking great Dave. Are you going to blacken the brass??havagoodone mate

Greg

Sure will be Greg.

Stocks are soft fitted at the moment. Glue and pin when new Anchor arrives.

Dave R

[DaveRow]

The shipwrights have been hard at work lately in the shipyard the last week.

To quote Greg Lester "Took me forever and I still wasn't happy with mine. They're tiny and quite difficult."

I totally agree.

 

Following on from my previous post #363, been putting together the Gun Tackle sets and Breeching cable.

 

Since their are 6 sets(2) of Gun Tackle and 6 Breeching cables I started a production line.

My apologies for the number of pictures, but for those who are interested.

 

Started with the single block, fixing the hook:

Sets ready for the block to be added.

Adding the block.

Bit of trimming the excess, and ready for fitting.

 

The double block and ring the same:

 

Adding the rope to make each tackle set(6 left hand and 6 right hand):

 

Breeching cable:

Assembled these on a Jig of 3 posts to get each same size.

Some trimming of the loose ends and ready to add to the Cannon.

 

On the Cannons next Post.

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Adding the Gun Tackle and Breech cable to Cannons

 

I decided for now to attach the Breech cable to each of the 6 cannons.

 

All the 2 pairs of tackles completed:

6 left hand and 6 right hand.

 

Mock up, how the cannon with tackle and breech cable will now look in place.

The "pull rope"(that's what I call it), is set beside the cannon frame either side(if that makes sense)

 

"In the box" tucked away.

 

I have had enough for now, of small tedious eye blinking magnification work.

Put all the parts aside for a later fixing session.

 

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

The Rigging Center is getting busier.

 

Mounted the rope I received from Chuck recently on the top rail, ready for more serious rigging(to come).

I made several spools from largish cardboard tubing, added ends and some dividers, wound the various sizes of 6m rope lengths onto the spools.

 

 

 

 

Dave R

[BANYAN]

Your riggers have been very busy Dave; nice work - double rum ration for them i would suggest!

 

cheers

 

pat

[dashi]

I like your rigging setup and I'm impressed with the detail you have put into those carriage guns at 1:60 scale.

 

Cheers Dashi

[DaveRow]

Your riggers have been very busy Dave; nice work - double rum ration for them i would suggest!

 

cheers

 

pat

Double Rum rations yes, well deserved. And same for me Pat.!

 

The rigging station is working out really well. I keep adding little extras along the way per each type of block/tackle I make.

Mass production of similar tackle sets is quiet fast now.

Last Friday I added a sliding tray to the bottom for the small bits'n pieces, clips etc.

 

Your Main Yard was something else.

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

I like your rigging setup and I'm impressed with the detail you have put into those carriage guns at 1:60 scale.

 

Cheers Dashi

Thanks Dashi,

I have made the 6 rear tackle sets for the carriage guns over this weekend.

Good practice on the small blocks before the larger tasks ahead.

 

Dave R

[rowand]

Sensational Dave, you are doing a beautiful job, Mate. You've put so much good info in your build log along the way too, thank you.

 

Rowan D.