CA glue question

[MikeB4]

I use CA as my primary adhesive. One of my concerns is will CA hold permanently or will it fail over time.

 

[S.Coleman]

I would prefer PVA (Carpenters wood Glue) when gluing wooden items together. If you choose CA glue, take Brians advice and mix it with titebond

[jud]

One says in conjunction with, the next says mix, that confuses me. Would appreciate further explanation on the method of using both on the same joint.

jud

[allanyed]

jud

Say you have  a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model.  I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames.  On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place.  I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures. 

 

Allan

[geoff]

I only use CA glue nowadays for stiffening the end 10mm of thread to make it easier to pass through blocks etc..

[hornet]

CA glue, particularly the gel variety is great for pinning a plank down at one end while the PVA Glue on the rest of it dries. I use Zap CA when applying copper plates as the PVA doesn't hold 'em. My biggest issue is the fumes. I have found that I am very allergic to them. They bring on flu like symptoms and completely block my sinuses. I find that even a well ventilated room does not help. I have to work outdoors on my deck, with a mask, in order to avoid the fumes. Not so bad in OZ with a mild climate, but I'd hate to be in the USA - in winter, applying a couple of thousand copper plates. In addition I have found CA glue to be a lot more expensive than PVA. Use very sparingly I say!!

What I would appreciate is some advice on an adhesive - available in Australia - for glueing Copper Plates that is NOT CA!

Edited September 11, 2014 by hornet

[kurtvd19]

The tips on using a combination of C/A and TiteBond is good though I tend to clamp rather than using the C/A on wood.  When I sit at my work bench I have a small fan going at all times because of my overhead halogen lights and the heat they put out - but it is real important when using C/A and doing soldering to make sure the fumes are blown away and not inhaled.

Kurt

[bear]

I remeber when in 1971 Hotstuff Ca came out for use in RC planes. I used it for joining 1/16 and 1/32 balsa sheets together on edge for sheeting the front leading edges of wings on my 12 and 14 foot wingspan gliders. It was so great to be able to edge glue the sheets together instantly,just going down the seam.

 

It was named Hot Stuff for a reason,when the CA would link up and harden,it created enough heat to cause a "smoke" comming up from the wood where it was used. I still have a couple of these gliders,and the CA has stood up to the years and stress of the bending and warping of the wings in flying. Which is a lot more stress than of a static ship model's rigging or planking.

 

I still build gliders and use Ca only for tacking some parts in place. Tite Bond PVA and slow setting epxoy for the wing spar laminations is still the way to go. With full size aircraft- resorsinal (sorry about the spelling) is still the only FAA approved way to join wood.But you have to have tight joints for it to work best.

 

As for rigging,I only use Ca in very few areas,because of the fumes from the CA and the lack of working time,and how it makes the joint brittle.

 

Sometimes the old way still can be the best way. PVA is still the best all around way to go. But Ca has in my building stood thew test of time in my Glider building and long term use of 43 years in a couple of my RC Gliders.

 

Keith

[Jasco]

I have models I built over 20 years ago that I used CA in some spots.  No problems yet. I'm still like smearing Ambroid on my fingers so I can peel it off.  Pure modeling enjoyment!

[Modeler12]

I should clarify my comment when I say in conjunction with titebond. I don't mix the glues together but apply half titebond and half super glue to a surface before clamping.

This is an interesting discussion.

I assume that using both adhesives results in a faster set-up time (with the CA) and still get the advantage of the superior strength of the PVA glue,  right?

 

Would you let the CA 'dry' before joining the two? Or do they combine pretty well while both are still 'wet'?

Does this give you the quick set-up time of one and the strength of the other? I know that CA 'loves' moisture but I am still curious about the 'love' affair between the two (speaking chemistry, of course).

 

This is a whole new dimension!!!

[Perls]

Hi All,

 

I've mentioned this before, but an old finish carpenter's trick is to spread a thin layer of Tite Bond on one piece to be glued and let it dry. Spread another thin layer on the piece to be glued and press together. It is almost always used on returns of complex mouldings. It's almost like contact cement, but with some working time. Finger pressure and a minute are all you need for good glue joint. I urge everyone to experiment with this technique. It can replace the need to use CA except in very specific circumstances.

 

Best,

Steve

[aliluke]

Hi Jay

Tried to send you a PM but it says you can't receive any new messages - message box too full?. Just wanted to catch-up so thought I'd indicate this here. Sending you a "Like" to signal.

[shihawk]

Hi All,

 

I've mentioned this before, but an old finish carpenter's trick is to spread a thin layer of Tite Bond on one piece to be glued and let it dry. Spread another thin layer on the piece to be glued and press together. It is almost always used on returns of complex mouldings. It's almost like contact cement, but with some working time. Finger pressure and a minute are all you need for good glue joint. I urge everyone to experiment with this technique. It can replace the need to use CA except in very specific circumstances.

 

Best,

Steve

 

I have used this method for second planking and found it very speedy ,but a word of warning ,i did finish up with a lot of springy planks and although this may have been due to my inexperience care must be taken to avoid a similar outcome  

Edited October 19, 2014 by shihawk

[DocBlake]

I planked the deck on my AVS with Zap-A-Gap medium.  I made a mistake on one plank and had to remove and replace it.  I had to move heaven and earth to get the plank out!  In the end, it came out in multiple small pieces, pried out with a #11 blade.  I suspect the unless the chemistry of the bond changes over a few decades, the bond with CA, if applied correctly, will hold.

 

Dave

Edited October 19, 2014 by DocBlake

[mtaylor]

Dave,

 

If it's CA, acetone will dissolve the bond and save your fingers and the blade. 

[DocBlake]

Thanks, Mark.  The problem with using acetone on the deck is that it's likely to loosenadjacent planks. That's why I had to pry the offender out!

 

Take cre, 

 

 

Dave