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Posted

Thankyou, I'm afraid it's not that good, I can see every sin. Our cat chewed one of the bumpkins fraying one of the stays for it so I now live in fear.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

The topmast blocks. Does not seem much of an update, but it's taken a week of hard slog (sorry Capt'n) between work commitments to get these done. I've placed them on a blown up image of the AOTS Endeavour topmast to show placement.

 

As you can see each block has a served rope, so I've shown my little serving machine. Very expensive. Really quick too, I can get about a foot of rope done in in 5 minutes.

 

The Jeer blocks will need to go under the shrouds then strapped above the ropes on the mast, thus the open eyelet.

 

My next block of days off (no pun intended) I can fit them to the masts.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Topmast blocks added. The jeer blocks slung under the shrouds required me to make eyelets and sling them. It looks really busy (it is) and because of the close ups looks somewhat out of scale, but by the time the topgallant shrouds are added and eventually the yards, the tension of the blocks should look correct. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

There is a sense of achievement finally fitting the topgallants. The topgallant futtock shrouds and thimbles were attached first which gets really fiddly seizing them properly to the Topmast shrouds. Strangely, the masts ended up aligned! 12 shrouds and 4 backstays to go. Finally given the Endeavour's strong ties to Australia, a boxing day BBQ is always on the cards, so the BBQ photo.

 

Hope you all had a happy Christmas.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Last post of the year I promise! Bit of serendipity today as I actually read the plans and looked at the replica and the Topgallant shrouds have no ratlines! I'm finished with them! Shrouds and backstays in place. Lots of work on the bowsprit before I can add the last stay. next year it is.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Bowspit cap, and horses and netting. As I said to slog I attached the blocks first to the cap. I've been dreading this part for years, but it came off quite easily really, only a days work in it for the netting. 

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Nice work again Greg!  What did you use for your simulated leather in the cap?  Nice work on the netting also, did you hand make it?  It is a really nice scale.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted
Posted

The "leather" liner is copper tape painter brown and the netting is commercial from Cornwall. I was going to try and hand sew it but it would have looked like crap at this scale. I did about 3 versions to get it right whilst I was watching the 5th test.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the feedback Greg; that copper came up very well.  I have used brown paper which I brushed with stain then dullcote to stiffen it; but I have only done the strip on the boom.  I'll post a photo soon.  I was wondering how to go about the cap :)

 

The netting was done in the nick of time ;) lucky you're a fast worker.  The netting looks excellent; I'll have to take a look at their site - any particular scale?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

The bowspit cap was cut from an off-cut of walnut that sits just outside the bees (about 2mm) - see photo. It sits at 90 degrees to the waterline but the angle at the top and bottom and the two holes run parallel to the angle of the bowspit. Done with a simple lead pencil and a sanding block to get the dimensions and angles correct.

 

I drilled 2 holes and widened them, the lower one square and the upper one round at the angle of the bowspit. I then cut a small groove for the flagstaff and used a microfile to widen it to fit to seat 1/2 the circumference of the flagstaff.

 

You then need 6 rings for blocks and rigging.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Oh yes, 5-0 and Thankyou skull. I'll take some more photos if you wish with a ruler for dimensions if you wish, I imagine the angles will vary with each kit. I'll finished the rigging on the boom which I'll attach tomorrow.

Edited by Greg Lester

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks Greg, sorry I wasn't overly clear.  It was more a question to myself noting the finish you achieved when I mentioned the Cap.  I was referring to simulated leather insert in the hole in the Cap.  You said you used copper which you have obviously cut then flanged.  I am going to try the same with my paper today.  Sorry for misleading you.

 

One thing I have noticed (you have also brought to my attention, is that I have the leader sheaves in the bee the reverse way around so that my topmast stay and preventer will be the reverse fitting.  I don't how this happened as I was sure I had it right; I think when I disassembled it to fix the original Cap (which I snapped) I must have put it back the wrong way.  I think that rather than disassemble it and risk even more damage I will simply leave it be.  The more learned rigging people among us may explain why the preventer or stay should be one side or the other?  I will sit on this for another day or so before resigning myself to live with it or not ?

 

cheers (oh yeah!  5 nil, 5 nil, 5 nil ...... how sweet that is  :) :) )

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

I really have no idea why they are set up that way but I don't think if worry about it too much, it won't get in road of any of the other rigging at all.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Thanks gents, things will slow down now, I want to get the mast tackles done next, and time to bite the bullet and make up some blocks with metal hooks. Then the fish hook davits (which are constructed but unshipped) to run off the foremast tackle, then the 4 anchors, the stunsail booms, do up chucks lantern, then wrap it all in glad wrap and start on the yards. So, same time next year then....

Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Wow, I am impressed. Amazing work. thanks for the inspiration.

Posted

I've kept this pillar off the ship to date as it would only get in the road. The bow swivel cannons were a slightly modified version of a Caldercraft cannon copied off the AOTS.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

I've finally shipped the fish hook tackle. I did a bit of research on this (I think to meet Marquardt's rigging plan) and found the two following diagrams.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

Posted

As such, each lower mast has it's own tackle block set up, with the rings already placed on the channel years ago. You really do have to plan ahead. The Fore tackle was obviously used to fish out the end of the anchors to get them out of the sea. I shall endeavour to replicate this when i do the anchors.

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Greg

 

 

 

 

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