Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer

[KenW]

Thanks Russ.  I think I'll make up one of those jigs.

Thanks for the 'likes' as well.

Cheers.

[Blue Ensign]

Very much like the look of her Ken.

 

B.E.

[scott larkins]

Looking good, words escape me.

[KenW]

WOW; I just realized how long it has been since my last post.  So, this is an update. The bow sprint shrouds and the boomkin shrouds were done a while ago.  I added the fore and main stay collars.  They are supposed to be doubled, according to Artscherl, but when I do them, the two served lines don’t ‘stand’ together the way they do in his book.  So I wrapped a thin line around to two served lines as a kind of worming or snaking to hold them together.  Hopefully, no one will notice.

 

The mizzen shrouds were added to the model.  I also attached the shroud cleats since I always try to do whatever I can off the model.  I’m not planning to use sheer poles since Antscherl (and Lees) state that they weren’t used until the 19^th century. And, now that I look at the photo, I’m not happy with that middle shroud (its deadeye is too high).

 

[EJ_L]

I figured you were building something amazing and time consuming and looks like I was right. Bowsprit looks great Ken. As to the deadeye being higher I saw this discussion come up before about them being in a perfect line or not. I do not remember now if a final verdict was ever decided upon but the main argument was that since they are used to keep the shrouds tight, wouldn't it have been common for some of the deadeyes to be out of alignment slightly as the shrouds were adjusted? I would think in real life this would be the case. However, in model ship building I also believe that having them in alignment makes for a much aesthetically pleasing look and having one sticking up higher than the rest would bother me too. Plus it creates a "why is that like that" question that distracts from the overall appearance of the model.

[src]

Ken,

That looks REAL good.

 

I think E.J. is right, considering their function I would assume they weren't always perfectly lined up, but there is the aesthetics to be considered. The eye wants to see things lined up.

 

Sam

[JSGerson]

Your model is looking real nice. At the beginning of your build log, you stated that you used my build log for the ship's boat so I assume you have also been following my Rattlesnake build log as well because I see you have anticipated some of the problems I've encountered and provided for them, A case in point are the shroud cleats - they are a lot easier to put on now then later. The Mamoli plans did not mention them. When I started my build, I had no experience with POB sailing ships, I had no reference books, I did not have the MS plans for clarifying details, among other things. I just plodded along using Hunt's practicum (which I highly recommend for newbies), learning as I went. I'm glad my errors, mistakes, and solutions have helped you.

 

Jon

[KenW]

Thanks E.J., Sam and Jon.  I don't think I'm going to take those shrouds off and redo them at this point.  May change my mind.

Jon - One of the reasons I follow your build and others here on this site is because I find the kit plans to be very sparse when it comes to details.  You can't rely on them.  So, even when I'm on vacation, I'm always thinking about possible problems that lie ahead.

Modeling can be a full time experience.

Cheers.

[DocBlake]

Ken:  Lovely work on this model.  Very impressive.  I started the Mamoli version, using Bob Hunt's practicum and the Hobby Mill wood package, but stalled when I ran into big transom problems.  They may not be fixable.  I do have the MS version also, and your build may inspire me to stoke that version up instead!  Keep up the great work!

[KenW]

Thanks Dave. 

Thanks to all the 'likes' as well.

Cheers.

[src]

Ken, I have in the back of my mind to make this my second build - assuming I ever finish my Enterprise - did you make a conscience decision to build the MS version over the Mamoli kit? Any particular reason?

Sam

[KenW]

This is my third model.  My previous two were MS kits.  At the time, there was a problem getting the Mamoli kit (a fire or something).

However, I should point out that I get all my blocks and line from Syren and used boxwood, holly, walnut and redheart from Crown Timber.  And I don't use the dye cast metal deck furniture.  So, the only parts of the kit I used were the frame (keel, former and stern and stem posts) and a couple of stern window frames.  So I guess, from my point of view, you could use either one. 

Check out 'jsgerson's build log on this site.  He's using the Mamoli kit with the help of Bob Hunt's practicum.  His build looks great, and he may have some advice as well.

Cheers.

[src]

Great thanks. I have following his as well as a couple of others. Best guess is I would similar as you did since that is mostly what I ended doing with the Enterprise. I would love to see somebody offer up a semi scratch "kit" that was just keel and bulkhead and you choose your lumber. They wouldn't be able to charge as much so I don't see it happening.

Thanks again.

Sam

[KenW]

Check out the Cheerful from Syren.  Chuck Passaro offers the plans and a keel and bulkheads package cut by his laser printer; and he has worked with Crown Timber who offer a wood package.

Not sure of the cost.  But I hope that this style of 'kit' catches on.  I'm too old to buy and learn how to use all the power tools needed to do a real scratch build.  Chuck offers some solutions and I hope others follow suit.

Cheers.

[KenW]

Another long period with no updates to the log.  I’d work a lot faster if I didn’t make so many mistakes.  And I promised myself that if it’s not right, I would tear it out and do it again.  So the main shrouds are installed, and ratted.  (I ratted the mizzen shrouds, as well.)  The mizzen and main stays were also added. All the blocks, etc., that attach to the stays were put in place before the stay was permanently installed.  Included is the main stay tackles used to launch the ship’s boat.  For the photos, I temporarily added the gallows along with a couple of spare dowels so I could see what the boat looks like.  So far, so good.

 

 

And I want to point out that I added catharpins to the main shrouds.

 

 

[russ]

Ken:

Nice work. Slow and steady is good.

 

Russ

[EJ_L]

Excellent job on those shrouds and stays. Very neat and clean rigging. It is good to see her climbing skyward and as usual the results are worth the wait in updates.

[rafine]

Looking really good Ken.

 

Bob

[donrobinson]

You have her looking pretty sweet, great work

[KenW]

Thanks Russ, E.J., Bob and Don; as well as all the 'likes'.

I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it to snake the two main stays.

Cheers

[DocBlake]

Beautiful work, as always.

[JSGerson]

Those catharpins are a real bugger to install especially trying to get the tension consistent on all of them. Would you mind elaborating how you accomplished it?

[KenW]

Thanks. 

Jon:  First I measured the distance between the two foremost shrouds.  Then, I cut pieces of line, all the same length, allowing for the splices.

I splice loops in each end of the lines, measuring as I go to try to get four the same length as the distance between the foremost shrouds.  After about 10 tries, I got the four I needed. 

The hard part is getting four the exact right length.

Edited October 21, 2016 by KenW

[JSGerson]

I asked because I've seen other builders (myself included) "cheat" and use served music wire. You can't tell the difference and it looks taught all the time.

[KenW]

Yeah Jon, that sounds like a good idea.  I may try that out on the fore mast.

Thanks.

[KenW]

The fore shrouds were completed so I finally have all the lower shrouds on the ship.  Again, there are no sheer poles as per Antcherl’s book.  Catharpins were also added; and I used the same method of constructing them as on the main mast.  It only took 7 tries this time to get four catharpins the same length.  And, finally, the fore stays were installed.

Following Antcherls’s book, my next task is to make and add the tops.

[russ]

Good work on the shrouds. It takes time to get rigging to "look right." I find that there is sometimes a good deal of trial and error. Yours is coming along quite well.

 

Russ

[KenW]

Thanks Russ. 

Thanks.

[BANYAN]

Looking good Ken

 

cheers

 

Pat

[KenW]

It’s been a whole month since my last post.  In that time, I’ve been making many changes to my work.  I added the tops and the lower topmast dead eyes.  However, the futtock plates tails appear to be too long.  So I removed the deadeyes and redid the plates.  They were added to the mizzen top only; and their futtock shrouds were installed and ratted down.

 

I’ve been following Antcherls’s book, and I notice differences in the rigging plans for a sixth-rate (which includes a 20 gun ship) and the plans drawn by Campbell and Hahn.  So I have to decide which plans, or combination of plans, to use.  In the end I made the following changes:

   1.  I added the mizzen lower yard sling to the mizzen masthead.  All of my books state that there are no jeers on the cross-jack.  The cross-jack will be suspended by a sling using thimbles (Antscherl, pg. 107 & 105).

   2.  The mizzen topmast stay attaches to the main top masthead by a thimble instead of a block (Antscherl, pg. 72).  I also added the jeer blocks and their tye lashings.  The block has the recommended double strop.

   3.  I added a main topmast preventer stay.  It just didn’t seem right that there is a fore topmast preventer stay but no main topmast preventer stay.  The main topmast stay’s block was moved down to just above the shrouds and a block for the preventer stay was added just below the hounds (Lees, pg. 56).  I also added a main topgallant stay span with a thimble seized into the foremast trestle trees (Antscherl, pg.84)

 

The cross-jack top with futtock shrouds and a sling with thimble:

 

The main top with jeers blocks lashed and mizzen topmast stay thimbles:

 

 

The fore top with jeers blocks lashed, plus the main stay and preventer stay blocks and main topgallant stay span with thimble:

 

I’m sure there will be more modifications to the MS kit rigging plans as work progresses.

 

While making all these changes, I couldn’t help but notice how wide open the space under the fore and main tops is.    It seems that it will be easy, at this stage, to add the main lower yard and tie its truss and rig its jeers.  Also, the bunt and leech line blocks are easily accessible.   So I’m considering, at this point, making the main lower yard and then experimenting.  None of the lines would be permanently tied off.  And I will be able to remove anything if it turns out that my idea doesn’t work out and something is in the way.  It should be interesting.  If it all works out, I’ll add the fore yard (and probably the cross-jack yard) as well.

Edited December 15, 2016 by KenW