Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer

[rafine]

Really nice, Ken.

 

Bob

[EJ_L]

Very nice job on the figurehead Ken. She sure is coming together nicely. 

[Stuntflyer]

Looking great, Ken. I see no reason why those belaying pins would break as long as you don't pull too hard on them when rigging. What "wood hardener" are you referring to?

 

Mike

[JSGerson]

I've been away the last week or so and have just caught up on your build. Nice job on the belay ping. Your model model is looking nice, clean and crisp!

 

Jon

[KenW]

Thanks for the comments and the 'likes'..

Mike: The wood hardener is by Min-Wax. I got it at the local hardware store.

[petermike19]

Hi Ken: I am building the Model Shipways Rattlesnake and have really been struggling trying to visualize the bow details that must be carved for the head rails and potty, etc. I am a recently retired engineer who has always been very successful at interpreting plans and bringing them to completion, but I was having a tough time until I saw your excellent build log on your version of the Rattlesnake. I can finally understand what I need to do and must remove and redo the upper cheeks I have installed, but so what. I just want to say thanks for all the effort you put into your excellent build log and I have found it very helpful. Take care, Pete. PS Very impressed with your custom wood types you added to your build. You really do beautiful work!!

[KenW]

Thanks and I'm glad I could be of help.

I'll check out your build log.

Cheers.

[KenW]

The next step is to install the gun port lids and the channels and chains.  I just completed the lids for the two foremost guns and the first channel and chain.  Now that I have a process for each, the rest should go a little quicker. 

[JSGerson]

Those lids are VERY delicate and easily knocked off. Just about all of mine are. If you feel comfortable about it, I would suggest that you hold off from installing them now and save yourself the heartache of breaking one or two or more off and losing them. I won't be reinstalling mine until after I finish the rigging...if I live long enough 8-)

 

Jon

[KenW]

Thanks Jon.  I already knocked off the aft ones, but thought it was save to reinstall them as part of the hull completion. 

I didn't think they would be in danger during rigging.  I'll have to be careful.  (Or, reinstall them later.  Maybe I'll wait on those 6 aft ones.)

Cheers.

[scott larkins]

Looking good

[KenW]

Launch Date

I believe I’ve completed the hull.  All the gun port lids, channels and deadeye & chains are installed.  I’m not actually sure what is required for launching a boat, but I think I’m there.  I know I have to make my belaying pins smaller, but aside from that I’m ready to start on the rigging.  My first step is to try out my new serving machine (from Syren).  And, of course, I need to start making masts.  But now I’m happy that the hull meets my requirements for a Launch Date.  I will have a party this weekend.  I also should clean up that cradle I made.  It doesn’t look so good.

 

 

[usedtosail]

Nice milestone Ken. She looks great.

[Martin W]

Hi Ken -- It's always great to see a good-looking build coming together.  You've done some careful work on your Ratt, and have every reason to be happy with it.

 

I really like your figurehead.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

Very lovely, clean looking, hull. A word of caution: DO NOT smash a bottle of champagne on the hull during your launch party. 8-) 

 

Jon

[KenW]

Thanks Tom, Martin and Jon and the 'likes'.

Good reminder Jon,  I always put all my bottles in re-cycling.

Did they smash bottles at launches back in those days?  It's not like the boat will sail off any time soon. 

Cheers.

[Blue Ensign]

Looks impressive Ken, great pics.

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Hi Ken,

 

a beautiful ship, and so well built, love that model    

 

Nils

[EJ_L]

She sure looks good Ken. You have done a fantastic job! Looking forward to seeing you rig her.

[rafine]

Beautiful Ken -- simply beautiful.

 

Bob

[donrobinson]

I agree with the rest, fantastic. Now bring on the rigging

[KenW]

Thanks for the comments B.E., Nils, EJ, Bob and Don.  And the 'likes' as well.

I'm looking forward to the rigging as well.

Cheers.

[KenW]

I started rigging with the bobstay.  According to Antscherl’s Fully Framed Model, the bobstay is both served and doubled.  I’ve never done either before.  I purchased the Serve-o-Matic from Syren and while I made some errors putting it together, it works fine.  In order to double the stay, I had to figure out how to splice the two ends of the served line in order to make a loop.  After several tries I got something I can live with.  Part of the challenge is that the splice has to be made while the served line is fed through the hole in the stem.

 

Since I felt that the splice was still noticeably thicker than the rest of the line, I placed the splice inside the hole in the stem. After some shaping, I seized the thimble in the opposite end and then lashed it to the bobstay collar.  So now it’s on to the bob sprint shrouds which are served but not doubled.

 

[JSGerson]

I didn't double-up my bobstay. I didn't know at the time I rigged it that it should have been because both the Mamoli and the MS plans did not show it that way. You did good.

 

According to Jame Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War the splice (which needs to be made on the model) lay in the grove of the heart (or deadeye). You placed it in the stem, but it won't matter except for the purest because in either case it will be hidden.

 

I don't know how you made your splice, but when I have to make them, I unravel the two ends, butt them together so that the loose strands overlap and lie on the other's end. I then apply some diluted PVC glue and hold with my fingers until nothing comes apart when I let go. I've have problems of them coming apart if the dilution is too thin. In this case because the line is served, I would leave a length of serving thread to continue the wrap around the splice which also gives it physical strength.

 

Nice work

 

Jon

[Martin W]

Hi Ken -- you might have a look at Blue Ensign's log, where he shows how to make a false eye-splice, a VERY useful technique, and shockingly simple.  It will save you lots of time.

 

That's a nice, taut stay. 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[KenW]

Thanks Jon and Martin. 

To make the splice, I used the method described by D. Antscherl on page 42 of his FFM, volume 4.  It took a few tries to get a good one, but it came out alright.  For eye splicing, I use his method which is also described in his book.  I will check out Blue Ensign's log to see his technique.

Cheers.

[JSGerson]

Antscherl's method is: "...once released from the serving machine, cut the ends on a long diagonal...Glue the ends..." The problem I had was cutting the ends. If done exactly as described, the serving is cut and begins to unravel. 

 

Here is his method from a handout he passed out during a demonstration he gave at a past NRG Conference. It adds a few more details.

 

BTY, Blue Ensign's method (the one that I could find) is for eye splices, not line splices.

 

Jon

[KenW]

Right Jon.  I cut the diagonal just beyond the serving. 

My biggest problem now is getting the exact length of the line or strop.  I'm always a little too long or too short.

[KenW]

I’ve finaly reached another milestone:  The lower masts have been constructed and glued into place.  There are a few things that should be pointed out.  Lees states that wooldings were made of line before 1805; so even though the Hahn plans seem to show metal wooldings, I chose to go with line.  I also added a belaying pin rack that will hold 4 pins for Mizzen lines that will need tying off.  My belying pins obviously need to be a bit smaller.

 

 

My next milestone will be to add the shrouds and stays.  And, Lees also states that the sheer pole was not used until around 1800.  I like using the sheer pole to help align the dead eyes, but I guess I will have to try to get them all lined up without it.  If that is too much of a problem, then I’ll add the sheer poles anyway.

 

[russ]

Beautiful work so far. The hull has a very nice atmosphere about it. Well done.

 

I would recommend a spacing jig for the deadeyes. That will help with alignment.

 

Russ