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Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48


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Really nice work Brian, deck shots look fantastic and very neat rigging of the gun tackle blocks.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Wow Brian, looks fantastic!  Interesting about your thoughts on stropping the blocks with wire versus thread.  I had a devil of a time using rope on my Badger's 2mm blocks, and was thinking about trying wire.

Edited by Landlubber Mike

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Brian:

The length I quoted was a standard formula. I did not know that the space on your model was that tight. It may be that in such a small craft, they would sponge and reload, from outboard, through the gun port. That was not uncommon, especially in small vessels where space was at a premium.

 

Russ

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Thanks for all the likes and feedback.

 

Wow Brian, looks fantastic! Interesting about your thoughts on stropping the blocks with wire versus thread. I had a devil of a time using rope on my Badger's 2mm blocks, and was thinking about trying wire.

Mike, I am cheating like crazy on the strops. I tie the hook onto the middle of a short length of rope, hold the block in a small clamp that I hold in a vise. I then dip the rope on either side of the block in CA glue, wrap it around the block and all the way back to the top of the block so that it is double on the bottom and sides. After it sets I trim the ends off flush near the hook. So it's all glued, the only tying is the initial knot to the hook.

 

I'll try to remember to take a picture of the simple clamp and vise arrangement I'm using tonight.

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Took a break from tiny little blocks tonight, and gave the captain a way to steer his ship.  Seems like a reasonable thing to do, given that she has a rudder and all.

 

I did not replace the cast wheel with anything aftermarket, as all of the wood wheels I've seen are really 'fat', and I don't think they look right.  I have read several articles on scratch making wheels, but I don't have the right equipment to use any of those methods yet, so I just painted the kit one and used it.  Not sure the color is right, but I don't have a lot of brown paints, so this is what I ended up with.

 

post-14925-0-40444900-1434780583_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-42064300-1434780584_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-04486600-1434780585_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-04497800-1434780586_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-00657900-1434780587_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-38729100-1434780587_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-90897600-1434780587_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-41459800-1434780588_thumb.jpg

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Brian:

The wheel looks good. The casting comes out nicely once painted.

 

Russ

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Color looks good to me

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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I did the same thing on my AVS, for the same reasons. I like the color I think it looks good. There is something special about putting the tiller on. It makes me real like I am entering the home stretch.

Mark

Current Builds: 18th Century Merchantman 1/2 Hull  Smuggler  Pride of Baltimore II

Gallery:  Yankee Hero  Armed Virginia Sloop
Future Builds: Rattlesnake, Fair American

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Nice job so far!  I didn't care for the Britannia metal wheel so I bought a boxwood wheel from MS.  I sanded it down on the disc sander to the proper thickness, then stained it a red mahogany color.  It turned out nice, I think.

 

Dave

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Just catching up. What a treat! Really like the detail work. Btw, did you ever get further with shelving and furniture for the work room? My room is still a work in progress and I'm looking for good ideas! :)

-Buck

 

Current build: AL Morgan's Whaleboat (1st build)

 

Kits in the ships locker: I cannot confirm nor deny that there may be a few kits in there...

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Just catching up. What a treat! Really like the detail work. Btw, did you ever get further with shelving and furniture for the work room? My room is still a work in progress and I'm looking for good ideas! :)

 

Hi Buck,

 

I keep getting derailed on further furniture, hopefully by the end of the summer I'll get it finished.  I have an idea for a lighting plan, and know pretty much what I want to do with the furniture, but I need both the money, and time, and at the same time!

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Hi Brian

 

I enjoyed seeing your AVS today - as usual. It looks great in pictures, but even better in real life. You definitely have the talent and the eye. I'll keep working on you to dive into the scratch-building pool.

 

Frank

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I got a new toy yesterday, so today instead of working on getting the guns rigged so that I can actually make some forward progress, I made a side-trip to shaping the bowsprit.  Well, when I was done I decided that it was terrible, because the grain in this 'beech' dowel was just huge and terribly obvious.  So I made a jaunt down to Lowe's after determining that I didn't have any wood on hand that would work as a replacement, and I purchased some poplar dowels and square stock both.

 

When I got them home and really took a good look at them in the sunlight, I decided that the best piece with the best color and lightest grain was one of the square stock.  I cut a length off a little long, and chucked it up in the new toy and began turning the square wood into round wood.

 

post-14925-0-23394900-1434938025_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-30389300-1434938026_thumb.jpg

 

Here you can see how terrible the kit dowel was (grain is huge) compared to the rough shaped replacement I made from poplar.

post-14925-0-14890400-1434938027_thumb.jpg

 

And I stuck it on the boat just to test fit it.

post-14925-0-77049300-1434938027_thumb.jpg

 

Next, I guess I'll get back to those fiddly little blocks, since there is no point in finishing the bowsprit since I need to get all the deck work done before I mount it.

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Brian:

Square stock is always the way to go on spar making. Store bought dowels can have grain running all over the place and they could easily warp over time. Square stock is much less likely to warp. Good work.

 

Russ

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Great job Brian!  I'm surprised you didn't need the follower at that length.  You've already turned something much longer than I ever did on the 17" lathe - I'm sure you got tired of cranking after a while.  It doesn't surprise me that you jumped right into it - now you'll be looking for anything you can use the new toy for.

 

Frank

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Brian:

That is exactly correct. A few dowels might do well, but then you will run into a batch of bad ones and you might never know until it is too late. So long as the square stock is straight grained, it will do well. The problem with dowels is that they are cut with little or no thought as to the grain direction.

 

Russ

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Very nice work. Please do tell us more about your new toy! I have been thinking of getting one too. I have always wanted to get into turning wood.

Mark

Current Builds: 18th Century Merchantman 1/2 Hull  Smuggler  Pride of Baltimore II

Gallery:  Yankee Hero  Armed Virginia Sloop
Future Builds: Rattlesnake, Fair American

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Thanks all, both for the comments and the likes.  Please don't hesitate to offer constructive (or even not so constructive) criticism as well.  I had no idea that there was a 'standard' length for breaching lines, even if I didn't go with that length purely for my own visual appeal reasons.

 

Tonight I got back to the cannon.  First I made a shorter breaching line and used much smaller seizing thread.  I think it came out much nicer.  Since I was happy with both the length and the look, I went ahead and fixed the gun into place and secured the breaching line.  I then replaced the block with the broken hook, and rigged the out-hauls on both sides and after very carefully pulling the line tight, used a small brush and painted the lines with 50/50 white glue/water mix to help 'fix' the ropes.
 
All that's left now is to do the rope coils, but I'm going to wait until all the guns are in place for that, so I can better picture the space available for both location and size of the coils.
 
post-14925-0-27800800-1435037165_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-37724600-1435037166_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-93358100-1435037166_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-05445900-1435037168_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-32057400-1435037169_thumb.jpg
 
As far as the new toy goes, I don't really know enough about it to talk much really.  It's the 17" Sherline, and I got it with a fairly good assortment of accessories, a couple of 'how to' books, and a DVD.
 
post-14925-0-90080000-1435036674_thumb.jpg
 
It's very nice, and it's clearly designed for precision work, with a tool holder.  The Proxxon (which I also have and can be seen in some of my photo's) uses a 'rest' rather than a tool holder, and doesn't throttle down to slow speeds, where the Sherline can be run from 0 speed on up.  They are really designed for different uses, with the Proxxon being for wood turning using hand tools, and the Sherline is for using a tool-rest and precision work.
 
I initially figured when buying the Sherline that I would sell the Proxxon, but after using it, I think they both have a different purpose on the work bench and will probably keep the Proxxon for doing hand-work using the tool-rest.
Edited by GuntherMT
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Brian:

The cannon rigging looks very good. Nice work. The smaller seizing thread is a good choice. In diameter, a little smaller will usually be good for the scale effect.

 

Russ

Edited by russ
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Time to get back to making progress on the ship.

 

I made 5 more breaching lines, attached them to the cascabel's on the 5 cannons, and then opened up the side gun carriage rings, put the line through them, and re-closed the rings.

 

post-14925-0-85344700-1435212601_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-59033200-1435212602_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-84224600-1435212603_thumb.jpg

 

I then attached the breaching lines to the bulwarks, glued them in, and glued the guns down.

 

post-14925-0-45270400-1435212604_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-91826500-1435212604_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-44274200-1435212605_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-93739100-1435212605_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-39737700-1435212606_thumb.jpgpost-14925-0-91445400-1435212606_thumb.jpg

 

Everything in these pictures is now permanently attached to the ship (except for the sloppy rope coils that are just sitting there). I will attach the companionway later, I need to build and install a couple of elm-tree pumps that go really close to it, so I am waiting on that. I also need to do some touch-up here and there as I managed to ding some things, and knock a cleat loose while putting the cannons on. I really am far too clumsy for this hobby.

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That looks AMAZING  Brian.. each time I look at her I just go Wow . That Bow on photo (last Photo) really shows her lines and the cool planking job you did!

 

All The Best

 

Eamonn

 

BTW I can totally relate about being Clumsy :P  :P  

Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is..🙄

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I initially figured when buying the Sherline that I would sell the Proxxon, but after using it, I think they both have a different purpose on the work bench and will probably keep the Proxxon for doing hand-work using the tool-rest.

 

You're probably already aware of this, but just in case -- Sherline sells a wood tool rest for their lathes. It's simple to use.

https://www.sherlinedirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=61&CFID=63140255&CFTOKEN=19584344

 

Cheers -

John

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Brian,

 

Beautiful progress on the cannons....I'm always looking for an excuse to add another fine tool to my work shop (very nice lathe you have there)  :)

 

And a thanks to Russ for another tip on using square stock for making spars :)   

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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