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Blue Ensign

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  • Location
    The Green Shires of England
  • Interests
    Eighteenth Century Naval History, ship modelling, wandering the Lakeland Fells, cocker spaniels, Golf, and too keen an interest in red wine.

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  1. Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?

    Thank you Thunder. B.E.
  2. Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?

    The definitive authority on the French Seventy-four is Jean Boudriot. He notes in his four volume work The Seventy-four gun ship that in 1780 sheathing was far from being in general use in the French Navy and lists only seven frigates having been coppered as at 31 January 1780. Regarding Ships-of-the-line he comments that the navy remained cautious even tho' a number of them will be coppered shortly. Glorieux was rebuilt in 1777, and was lost in September 1782, following capture. Apparently the French were surprised at the speed of the coppered British fleet which gives some credence that the French fleet was not coppered. We also know that De Grasse's fleet was off Yorktown in September 1781, before sailing to the Caribbean, so post 1780 there would have been a very short window to copper Glorieux On balance I think perhaps that she was not coppered, but whatever you decide nobody will gainsay you. Good luck with your project. B.E.
  3. A lathe for masts and spars

    Thanks Derek for the compliment, the Proxxon is a quality item and you can get a bed extension for it too. The Mantua is poor quality by comparison, and over priced (I have owned one). B.E.
  4. Flag protocol

    That is from a painting by John Dews the Yorkshire Marine artist, depicting the Sir Winston Churchill off Whitby. She is wearing the Flag of St George, the English Flag. As she is not a naval vessel, where the flag and position may have more relevance, it may simply be indicative that she is an English ship. At the stern she wears the Red Ensign, of the British merchant marine. B.E.
  5. Ship paintings

    I like your stuff Jim, you certainly have a talent for marine art, one of the more difficult genres I think. Well done, and long may you enjoy your art. B.E.
  6. I was checking this out when Dave beat me to it, the Caldercraft guns barrels and carriages would be a great improvement on the Amati offering. When searching for replacement items I tend to look at the scale actual size and match that to what's available regardless of scale. A small gun at 1:64 may well serve as a larger one at 1:72. I would talk directly to Jotika, ask them what the actual size of the guns at 12 and 24 Ib are. Cheers, B.E.
  7. I don't recognise that as a feature of English gun carriages particularly in the era of your build. Amati are notorious for providing otherwise good kits with generic out of scale fittings, are the gun carriages made of metal? I seem to recall that they supplied their Fly kit with such items, and gun barrels even fitted with dolphins. at one point. The Amati guns provided with my Pegasus kit looked superficially ok, but they were seriously over scale, and not of a correct profile, particularly around the muzzle, and with the bore of a siege gun. By the late 1790's most inboard works were painted yellow; although Red Ochre was still the official colour many Captains requested Yellow, and were in the habit of having their gun carriages re-painted. Not until 1807 did the Navy Board formalise the procedure by notifying Dockyards to accede to Captains requests for a yellow scheme. Vanguard was first commissioned in 1790 and had some re-fits before she fought at The Nile in 1798, by which time she may well have had the yellow scheme, she was the Flagship of Nelson at the battle. Even so I think there is sufficient leeway to give her the Red scheme if you prefer that. B.E.
  8. Looking good Snow, and you seem to be enjoying your first build, which is the prime objective of getting into this fascinating activity. If your ships boat is 70mm in length it scales to a small boat of around 14 feet, so as finger in the wind job I would say oars of between 7' to 8' in length which scales to 40mm. You could try the formula based on width between the oarlocks/tholes; Firstly measure the width of your boat in mm between the oarlocks and scale up to full size eg: scale width 20mm; multiply by 60 then divide by 25.4 = full size in inches. (47.24") The formula is then: Divide by 2, then add 2 inches. take this number, multiply by 25, divide by 7, and that's your approximate answer in inches. multiply this by 25.4 and divide by 60 to give the scale length in mm. for your model. Hope this helps rather than confuses B.E.
  9. P1010870.JPG

    A fine looking 'Swan' and beautifully displayed, well done! B.E.
  10. Proxxon Micro MBS 240/E Band Saw Review Since I posted my new toy on my build log it has been suggested I write a review of this Band saw. This is really first impressions by a novice user. It may be of interest to those in the UK that the machine was purchased not from Chronos the UK Proxxon dealer, but from TBS- Aachen in Germany. Delivery was very quick, I was able to pay by Paypal, and there was a saving of £52.72 over the Chronos price, including a modest postage charge. http://www.tbs-aachen.de/Proxxon/table_top_tools/bandsaw/Proxxon_27172_MICRO_bandsaw_MBS_240/E_i2486_42358.htm A few general shots Note the push stick hanging on the side of the machine, this is included. First impressions. This is the largest of the Proxxon tools I have, measuring 19½" high x 15½" deep x 11" wide. (including the motor on the side, and the table) It sits on a base of mdf 1” thick, 9¼" wide x 12¼" deep. The machine feels sturdy, it is quite stable, but portable, and I can pick it up one handed. As can be seen below it sits comfortably on my desk. The machine arrived with a standard blade already fitted, and all that was necessary to set it up was to attach the table and get familiar with the operations. I found it useful to photocopy the exploded views in the manual so easy reference could be made to the parts etc; when reading the text. Changing blades is fairly straightforward but as a complete novice with band saws it would have been comforting to have some sort of tensioning gauge when fitting blades rather than the narrative dire warning:- putting too much tension on the blade can tear apart and damage the device. How much tension is too much tension, should there be any lateral play in the blade at all or should it feel rigid when pressed from the long side. It seemed to me that there is a range of tensions where I can’t detect differences in performance, but which is the optimum one. Tensioning is done by degrees using the knob on top of the machine, best done with the cover off where the blade can be felt. I worked on the basis of when there was minimal play in the blade on the long side and the motor ran quietly, it was about right. Access to the internals is via four Allan bolts to remove the cover which remains attached to the machine via a chain. A hinged door system would have made for quicker adjustments/cleaning. The lower running wheel with the drive pulley attached. The wheels have a plastic cover around them over which the saw blade runs. In the photo you can see a brush which clears away bits of plastic scuffed off the wheel. These are replaceable items and I have noticed that the rate of wear changes depending on the tension, but again as a novice user it is difficult to know what is normal for this machine. The machine has quite an efficient dust clearing system using the vacuum cleaner hose attachment. Using the machine. My initial use was limited to practising curved cuts on scrap wood which it easily accommodated. I progressed to cutting out the keel and false keel for my attempt at a 1:64 scale Pinnace. This is fairly fine stuff using 1.5mm boxwood sheet, and it (or perhaps me) struggled a little with the internal curves given the scale. I rather think a scroll saw would be more suited to the job, and certainly for the boat frames which are quite small. Even so this is a very useful addition to the workshop and apart from cutting more complex shapes it will replace my table saw for many jobs also. Here’s the official video of the machine. Any member who has perhaps more experience in using this particular machine please feel free to comment. B.E.

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