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Blue Ensign

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    The Green Shires of England
  • Interests
    Eighteenth Century Naval History, ship modelling, wandering the Lakeland Fells, cocker spaniels, Golf, and too keen an interest in red wine.

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  1. Thanks guys for the 'likes' and comments. Thanks Martin you express my thought process exactly. So back refreshed from my week in Dorsetshire. 0613 Two of my non ship modelling interests in one place. Post 40 Modifications continued Having started with the Skylight and Ladderway, I carried on and made deck space below the Main/ Fore hatches. 2618(2) This is a completely unnecessary diversion from the plans and involves cutting out the false deck areas which are marked as 'not to be cut out'. 2612 It is important to only cut to the area defined which will allow the coamings/ head ledges to still sit on the false deck. 2627 This will give me the option to leave the Fore hatch/ ladderway open. 2621 Similarly I will have the Companionway hatch lid in the open position. Enough messing about time to fix the false deck. B.E 16/09/2018.
  2. Nice work on those guns John 👍 Well done. 🙂 B. E.
  3. Once again brilliant attention to detail, and one of the finest examples of stowed hammocks I think I have seen. 😊 👍 Well done Thomas. B.E.
  4. Post 39 A return to the inboard - Fitting the False Deck The False Deck has been formed as detailed in Post 37, but before fitting it is useful to mark the deck beam positions which of course don't follow the bulkheads but relate closely to the centre line fittings where in reality carlings' ledges, and framing would be involved. 2517 I have taken the 'beam' positions from the kit deck plan where they are marked. 1972 They follow fairly closely the deck beams as shown on the Admiralty plans for Cheerful. 2518 You will note they do not butt to the edges of the centre line fittings template marks but allow for the coamings etc. 2519 A final bit of tweaking to ensure both halves fitted together without buckling and that the reference lines matched. 2537 But before gluing into place... One of my little foibles is that I like to have a realistic view below decks where lights or openings are concerned. I made a small modification below the skylight to give the impression of a lower deck. The bulkhead was cut away to form false deck beams and create a space. A false deck was fitted which was then planked over. 2545 I followed this up with a similar modification for the Ladder way; I am thinking of having the lid cover/doors open. 2550 I will probably end up also creating space beneath the gratings, I don't really like sticking them on solid board. A short break now while I adjourn to enjoy the delights of Dorsetshire. 🙂 2549 William also looks like he's ready for a break from the shipyard. Cheers, B.E. 05/09/2018
  5. Thank you Jim for taking an interest in my build. 🙂 I will glue the false deck first and then plank. I really don't think this build lends itself to pre planking, appealing as that may first appear, with clear access to the deck for marking and fitting. There is the issue of the deck camber, and getting the margin plank relationship correct, let alone accurate cutting around the centre line fittings. I think Chuck's approach is the way to go. Regards, B.E.
  6. Thanks Guys for your comments and likes. much appreciated. 🙂 @ Dave - I'm not averse to a bit of scratch building but if one of Chuck's mini marvels will do the job I am more than happy to go with that; I do have the set. Thanks for the heads up on the yard dimensions, not sure yet if I am going to fully rig her (space issues) but that decision is a way off yet. @ Martin - I do have steady hands, it's the eye sight that's my issue, but with this sort of item gentle hands are certainly required. Post 38 A check around the exterior hull. The wale has again been recoated using Admiralty Metal Black, hopefully for the last time. 2454 2458 2459 A very light sanding to the hull followed, and a further coat of wipe-on poly applied. 2448 The Horse shoe and Keel plates were added to complete my action on the outer hull for the present. 2450 Still having thoughts about the counter and whether to paint it. The older I get the more indecisive I seem to get! 🙄 I wonder how the real Cheerful would have been painted. Built post Trafalgar with the war grinding on, navy under pressure with patrol and blockade duties, and now in an era of austerity where elaborate decoration had given way to plain paintwork . By 1780 the 'approved' colour for British Naval ships was Black wales, yellow painted sides, with a black ground to the topsides. Inboard Red Ochre was the order of the day, had been since 1715 but shortly after the start of the new century yellow ochre which had been used unofficially for some years became officially approved. My own inclination is that Cheerful would have had painted yellow sides, black wales with the counter and capping rails painted black, and red inboard works throughout. She may also have had her topsides painted black. Cheerful was a small unrated vessel and as such I doubt any Commander would have put his hand in pocket to 'personalise' the scheme. In naval circles of the time to be appointed to the Cutter Service was not something to be particularly desired especially by those with ambition. Still I am not trying to reproduce a working appearance, otherwise I would have painted or coppered her bottom and there was a fair bit of licence taken by even model makers of the day when it came to decoration. I don't want an excess of paint to cover the natural wood but I have come to feel that the expanse of the counter did require something. To my conservative eye Red was too much, and Blue too fancy for this small working vessel. 2466 I overlaid the counter with some black planks to gauge the look, and know what I like it. So decision made black it is. 2475 Not particularly obvious on this shot I was also concerned that the plank lines showed thro' the paint I'm not really a fan of the solid sheet look. 2487 Thinned coats of Admiralty Metal Black were applied with sanding between coats. 2478 Moving on...…………. B.E. 03/09/2018
  7. Very nice ropework Ferit, and a very nice build, you are a fine ship modeller. 🙂 B.E.
  8. Cheers Dave, I have more or less decided to restrict the paintwork to the wale and inboard . I enjoy the rigging and fitting element of a build far more than basic building stages, do you have any photo's of your progress to date? Thanks, Bob, Thomas, and Al, I'd almost forgotten the mind numbing hours of treenailing, but I have to admit I am quite pleased with the look. 🙂 Post 37 Tidying up inboard and installing the false deck. This involves final smoothing down inside the bulwarks and fairing the deck beams prior to getting the deck down. 2296 All this handling, sanding and chiseling has taken its toll on the paintwork, both the inner surfaces of the ports, and the already re-painted wales. I will leave all red paintwork now until I line the inner bulwarks. 2298 I have got the thickness of the inner bulwarks close to finish. Almost forgot the outer stern frames also need fining down. 2301 Using Limewood strip to check the clean run of planking along the bulwarks. 2303 Limewood strips also used to check the fairing of the bulkhead tops. The False deck To aid alignment of the template I fitted a length of dowel in the mast hole which also helps to hold it position. Weights were also used to keep it in position while I added Tamiya tape around the edges. 2306 For the false deck I am using (2) 1.5mm x 100mm sheets temporarily held together down the centre line. 2308 Reference lines extended across boards. 2311 Transfer completed. 2316 Fitting the False deck; I found it useful to cut out the mast hole and Skylight opening to assist aligning the two halves. 2320 Trial fitting completed, a five hour job to get the fit. 2322 Before I install the deck I will return to the outer hull to complete the finish. Onwards...….. B.E. 30/08/2018
  9. Beautiful work Ian, a very fine model - care to swap 😉 B.E.
  10. Post 36 Fixing the decorative mouldings. These went on without too much trouble, but at the bow end an extension of the moulding onto the stem, referred to as 'ears', is required to be scratched. I couldn't find a drawing of these items on the plans to use as a working template so it was a case of trial and error. The ear extends to the fore end of the stem and is shaped to run into the fancy moulding running back to the fore side of the bow port. The hawse plate governs the length of the ear onto the hull; I firstly drew the ear shape onto card freehand using the hawse plate length and stem width as reference points. 4402 Once happy with the shape and fit, it was transferred onto 1/16th" Boxwood sheet,(I made several copies) cut out on the jig saw, and given the final shape using scalpel and sandpaper. 4424 The latter stages need soft hands as the stems are quite delicate where they extend back to meet the other moulding, and I did snap one just as I neared completion. 4433 The last job was to scrape the profile into the outer edge. The macro image is not very flattering. 2201 Positioning the ears is a little tricky, they have a slightly upwards angle as they run across the stem, it took me three goes to get them to look right to my eye. They came off ok with water but with the high risk of snapping the tail off the 'ear' 2220(2) With the ears glued into place the lower moulding strip can be completed. 2222(2) 2222 2211 2213 2199 I've yet to decide whether to paint the counter or not, I quite like the natural look, and it is a large expanse of red. 2195 I will leave the outer hull now for a while to concentrate on the inner works, but I will return to do a final fettlin' on the outer works before I install the false deck. B.E 28/08/2108
  11. Thanks Peter and Jason, the safety razor blade does make for a stable scraper, and I'm pleased with the outcome. A simple profile but one I think that is appropriate for a humble Cutter. I agree Jason, a model is more than the sum of its parts and the eye is drawn to the overall effect. The eye registers that the moulding has a profile detail, which really is sufficient at this size of model at this scale. Once completed we don't spend our time looking at it thro' a macro lens. 🙂 Post 35 Moving inboard - lining the bulwarks. I am planking between the bulkhead extensions with 1.5 x 5mm Lime wood strip, and will then reduce the extensions to be flush. I don't really trust myself to get going with the Dremel without this sort of guide. Straightforward but tedious stuff this, measure, chop and fit, from just below deck level to bulwark top. 2013 The addition of this inner layer does firm up the outer bulwark planking particularly along the top and in the stern area where the top edges may be vulnerable to splitting. 2014 So to start with the Dremel, I drew guide lines across the top of the bulwarks and got to work. 2016 The Dremel can only go so far down to the deck level so there is some chisel work to be done. 2075 Working at low revs the Dremel soon reduced the excess and I went as close as I dare. 2076 2079 At this stage the bulwarks have been reduced to a tad over 1.5mm (excluding the outer planking). 2083 2084 Some fine adjustments and tidying up now required before I return to fixing the decorative mouldings along the topsides. B.E. 24/08/2018
  12. Thank you Chuck, I surely am enjoying the project, testing as it is at times. Your well thought out plans and instructions, excellent materials and great fittings combine to make your kits such a joy to build.🙂 B.E.
  13. Post 34 A spot of wiping and a bit of scribing. I had intended to start lining the bulwarks today but CMB have sent me 1.5 x 1.0mm strip rather than 5mm stuff I ordered, so while I wait for the correct stuff to arrive I turn my attention to scribing a pattern into the moulding strips. Before I start I gave the hull the wipe-on-poly treatment to protect the surface. 1829 1830 It surely does enhance the look and I am now starting to feel a little better about the hull finish. So onto the moulding strips. Looks simple enough to cut a pattern into a bit of thin metal and draw it across the strip to impart the design. Well maybe... I am using Boxwood strip 3/64"x 1/16" (1.19 x 1.59mm) The first problem is the pattern is incredibly small and has to be contained within only 1.59mm width. 1838 I chose to use a single edged safety razor blade as the medium, and the fine edge of a needle file to cut the simple pattern. At this size a simple groove along the centre of the strip is about the most I can achieve, and the secret is to use light passes along the strip; press too hard and the groove goes off line. The lower strip has a continuous run from aft of the first port to the stern and is ideally scribed in a single run. 1845 To avoid flexing during the process I used double sided tape to secure the strip and keep it true. 1844 The system seems to work. 1852 1854 So this is the look with the strip temporarily secured to the hull. I think I can live with that. 🙂 Cheers, B.E. 21/08/2018
  14. Hi Martin, I used the brass etched window frames supplied with my Pegasus, and used clear acetate for the glass. To fix the glass I used epoxy resin - very, very, carefully and sparsely applied. Ca is a no, no, for this purpose as it tends to fog the acetate. I have used Clearfix at times and it can work very well. It gives a sort of old fashioned glass look that can look good on period models. I would suggest you trial some on a spare frame to gauge the effect. Those decorative figures are incredibly small at 1:64 scale, have you tried a No 11 scalpel blade point to assist with detailing facial features. Have to handle them carefully to avoid snapping them, but that probably isn't a bad thing when doing fine work. B.E.
  15. Nice work on the Tafferal Martin, I admire your approach to scratch as much as you can, particularly the carving which I mostly dodged on my Pegasus build. How do you intend to glaze the stern lights - acetate or perhaps clearfill ? Very much looking forward to seeing the stern decoration develop. B.E.

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