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Blue Ensign

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  • Location
    The Green Shires of England
  • Interests
    Eighteenth Century Naval History, ship modelling, wandering the Lakeland Fells, cocker spaniels, Golf, and too keen an interest in red wine.

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  1. Swann Morton chisel blades.

    Thanks for the heads up on this harlequin, I am very familiar with Swan Morton scalpel blades, order them in boxes of 100, but these little beauties escaped my attention. Ordered SM61 and 62 SB blades yesterday together with the SF2 handle, they arrived today. In use already, they are fine narrow chisels perfect for those awkward places. B.E.
  2. Silkspan

    I have used Modelspan which is the same thing, excellent stuff particularly at smaller scales, also good for flags and ensigns. I used it on my 1:150 French Seventy-0four build. B.E.
  3. Aye up!

    Hi Peter, a Caldercraft kit is a good choice to start with, I re-started my 'timber' ship building activity with their 'Pickle'. ps; when you refer to native speaker do you mean English or Yorkshire? English is easy, Yorkshire a little more tricky thaa knaws. B.E.
  4. A lovely post Barbara and kudos to your Dad, that is a very fine model. You may already have the book The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lees, but there is a good section on sail making and dimensions in that book. B.E.
  5. Hi Kurt, those numbers below my photo's are simply the photo number in my computer picture file. When I lost my complete Pegasus log, I realised that it would have been useful to know which photo's I had used and where. I hadn't always kept a note of the photo reference in my draft log and it would have made things much simpler when I came to reconstruct the log - hence I now include the reference. As far as photo location in logs is concerned this is what I do: I pre-write my logs using Word and copy and paste the narrative to the log. Once I have started the log entry blurb, I click choose files which takes me to my picture files and I select what I require, these are then uploaded to the log in total. As I copy the narrative to the log, at the appropriate points I click on the photo and it appears in the right place. I then continue to add the narrative and photo's as required. Cheers, B.E.
  6. Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?

    Thank you Thunder. B.E.
  7. Heller's Le GLorieux: Copper Sheathed Hull?

    The definitive authority on the French Seventy-four is Jean Boudriot. He notes in his four volume work The Seventy-four gun ship that in 1780 sheathing was far from being in general use in the French Navy and lists only seven frigates having been coppered as at 31 January 1780. Regarding Ships-of-the-line he comments that the navy remained cautious even tho' a number of them will be coppered shortly. Glorieux was rebuilt in 1777, and was lost in September 1782, following capture. Apparently the French were surprised at the speed of the coppered British fleet which gives some credence that the French fleet was not coppered. We also know that De Grasse's fleet was off Yorktown in September 1781, before sailing to the Caribbean, so post 1780 there would have been a very short window to copper Glorieux On balance I think perhaps that she was not coppered, but whatever you decide nobody will gainsay you. Good luck with your project. B.E.
  8. A lathe for masts and spars

    Thanks Derek for the compliment, the Proxxon is a quality item and you can get a bed extension for it too. The Mantua is poor quality by comparison, and over priced (I have owned one). B.E.
  9. Flag protocol

    That is from a painting by John Dews the Yorkshire Marine artist, depicting the Sir Winston Churchill off Whitby. She is wearing the Flag of St George, the English Flag. As she is not a naval vessel, where the flag and position may have more relevance, it may simply be indicative that she is an English ship. At the stern she wears the Red Ensign, of the British merchant marine. B.E.
  10. Ship paintings

    I like your stuff Jim, you certainly have a talent for marine art, one of the more difficult genres I think. Well done, and long may you enjoy your art. B.E.
  11. I was checking this out when Dave beat me to it, the Caldercraft guns barrels and carriages would be a great improvement on the Amati offering. When searching for replacement items I tend to look at the scale actual size and match that to what's available regardless of scale. A small gun at 1:64 may well serve as a larger one at 1:72. I would talk directly to Jotika, ask them what the actual size of the guns at 12 and 24 Ib are. Cheers, B.E.
  12. I don't recognise that as a feature of English gun carriages particularly in the era of your build. Amati are notorious for providing otherwise good kits with generic out of scale fittings, are the gun carriages made of metal? I seem to recall that they supplied their Fly kit with such items, and gun barrels even fitted with dolphins. at one point. The Amati guns provided with my Pegasus kit looked superficially ok, but they were seriously over scale, and not of a correct profile, particularly around the muzzle, and with the bore of a siege gun. By the late 1790's most inboard works were painted yellow; although Red Ochre was still the official colour many Captains requested Yellow, and were in the habit of having their gun carriages re-painted. Not until 1807 did the Navy Board formalise the procedure by notifying Dockyards to accede to Captains requests for a yellow scheme. Vanguard was first commissioned in 1790 and had some re-fits before she fought at The Nile in 1798, by which time she may well have had the yellow scheme, she was the Flagship of Nelson at the battle. Even so I think there is sufficient leeway to give her the Red scheme if you prefer that. B.E.
  13. Looking good Snow, and you seem to be enjoying your first build, which is the prime objective of getting into this fascinating activity. If your ships boat is 70mm in length it scales to a small boat of around 14 feet, so as finger in the wind job I would say oars of between 7' to 8' in length which scales to 40mm. You could try the formula based on width between the oarlocks/tholes; Firstly measure the width of your boat in mm between the oarlocks and scale up to full size eg: scale width 20mm; multiply by 60 then divide by 25.4 = full size in inches. (47.24") The formula is then: Divide by 2, then add 2 inches. take this number, multiply by 25, divide by 7, and that's your approximate answer in inches. multiply this by 25.4 and divide by 60 to give the scale length in mm. for your model. Hope this helps rather than confuses B.E.

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