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About donrobinson

  • Birthday 11/09/1956

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    Prince Albert Saskatchewan Canada

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  1. len: Thanks, hope it helps someone Mike : Thanks. The tool is clamped in a vise then using an appropriate sized drill bit you bend the wire around it. I can post some pictures if you want
  2. Hey everyone, I hope you are all enjoying the weekend. Thanks to all for stopping, for your likes and comments. Today's update is showing the catheads and anchors. I realise it is a bit early for the anchors but I couldn't resist the urge to see how they would look, they can be easily removed if required. This is a practice cathead, just to get the fit, angles and dimensions right. This is just 6 x 6 mm basswood, the final product is made from 6 x 6 mm rosewood. The holes and simulated sheaves were made on the mill using a 1 mm end mill cutter. I am just showing for those who haven't done this before how I install the anchors. A line is put through the eye on the cathead pulled through, doubled over itself forming a loop, wrapped around itself(three times in this case) and then fed through the loop Pull both ends to tighten seizing Then move seizing up into place There is a hook stropped to the double block. The line is then fed through block and sheave in cathead and finally belayed to a cleat. The rope around the anchor shaft has a thimble seized in it. Rope is wrapped around the shaft and belayed to the kinighthead. I didn't care for how loose the line through the cathead and block was so I painted the line with diluted pva glue and added the tweezers for weight This is the final result. The anchor rope is from Syren that has been dyed from tan to brown. All other rope used is kit supplied, The hook on the block needs some touching does some of the other some of the other paint by looking at these close ups And a shot from inboard Finally a picture of the tool I use to make hooks with. I found this here on MSW some time ago and I can't remember the fellow's name but I surely thank him as it works great.
  3. Everything looks great. Good clean work
  4. unfortunate, but we have all experienced this sort of thing. It will all work out
  5. That light looks real sweet, nice work E.J.
  6. Right on! Let's see her in the water
  7. She is turning out to be a cool looking ship
  8. Thanks for the great pictures
  9. Planking it will look real sharp. What type of wood are you thinking about? Tires are a sweet idea and would look so cool. I would still sand to get it smooth just be a little cautious, it would be about the same as sanding the second layer of planking on a hull
  10. That copper looks much better, and a little easier than using copper plates. I agree the rub wale will look real good painted white. Nice work
  11. I'm curious about the rigging, looking good
  12. To help make stealers look better, try not to use a triangular piece but a four sided(minimum)piece or even a hook or a scarf joint. Make it longer than necessary by cutting into the top and bottom strakes thus moving the end of the stealer forward towards the bow. Doing this will still leave a nice fit at the stem and the site of the joint won't be easily seen. It is a good rule of thumb to try and not use planks with points, although, there are exceptions to this also. What I have done is to measure the length of the stealer I want, cut it, shape it then lay it in place tracing the outline onto the planks it is laying on then trim them accordingly. With sharp knives and chisels(which you have) you cam make a stealer look quite attractive.
  13. Although there is nothing wrong with stealers, to avoid them you may have to do some spiling and/or some creative edge bending. Spiling is a little more work but does leave a nice finish, and you will need some wider stock