BANYAN

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • Content count

    2,081
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Great work Karl, it's a wonder you didn't lose more with the size of the wood you are using. The stern in particular looks great! cheers Pat
  2. Who has been a busy lad then ? All that detail looks great John, and your ingenuity in making some of the items is very enlightening. cheers Pat
  3. You can also use 3M temp glue or craft glue (or similar craft glues) to glue the paper to the wood, comes off a little easier cheers Pat
  4. Thanks Joel, Another to try I agree, i wish to stay away from washes and the like - I'll do a bit of a search to see if I can get some. cheers Pat
  5. Many discussions have been held on MSW about this substance as used for preserving standing rigging in sailing ships of yesteryear. In looking for some information I came across this: has anyone tried this for rigging? Is it the same basic composition? http://www.europasaddlery.com/stockholm-tar-500ml.html and this one which is specifically for rope preservation https://shop.classic-boat-supplies.com.au/boat-building-maintenance/general/stockholm-tar-preservative/ Also, some time ago, one of our Russian modellers posted a formula/solution they used to simulate this on scale rigging. By any chance has anyone made a copy of that discussion/formula as it no longer appears in MSW (well that I could find anyway) cheers Pat
  6. Ya got my vote for "cool" - nice work Denis; that looks really good. cheers Pat
  7. Nice finish mate; that looks good! cheers Pat
  8. I am currently researching pins and racks for my HMCSS Victoria project (built 1855) and I have found discussion that suggests that at some point before this (transition from sail to steam and/or steel) the pin styles changed and that they were permanent fitted in the rack/rail. These pins (not for all ships though) were made from brass or iron, and shaped with a broader middle that fitted to/in the rack and the diameter decreased as they extended away either side of the rack. Before that, I think most pins were of the shape we are accustomed to seeing, and as JCF pointed out, some were made from wood or metal, and were designed to slip into the holes in the rack with the shoulder of the handle part stopping it slipping through. The pins' size was governed by the rigging size belayed to it (I think Lees discusses this but would have to check) and were able to be moved in the rack (other holes) as needed for a better lead/to clear other rigging. Belaying pins were also utilised as weapons during boarding, or defending against boardings. cheers Pat
  9. Joe, drop a PM to one of the Admin/Moderators asking them to merge the posts (if Michael is happy to do so also)? I am following both and waiting to see what you end up doing as I wish to do something similar. To date, I have been using the inside of blade (cutting the strip between fence and blade) in a similar set-up to what Mark uses, as it was easier to control a consistent width of cut, but I do get the occasional kickback. My thoughts now are that once the desired thickness is set using Michael's or your concept as the guide, to then use the fence (floating on its rails) as a push the stock laterally towards the guide and take the strip off the outside of the blade - I hope that makes some sense in reading cheers Pat
  10. I have only left mine floating (not glued) for the reasons mentioned by others above. However, I did ensure the mast entry hole on the deck was a close fit so they did not move around too much cheers Pat
  11. Thanks JCF, those are very helpful. Looks like I need to pick up some burnt umber to experiment with cheers Pat
  12. Stunning work Jason, your finishes even stand up to close/macro camera views. That is a very nice shade of blue and complements your choices of wood very nicely - she will be one sweet model when completed. cheers Pat
  13. Nice recovery with the flat varnish Denis, that really improved the paint blotches for you. Did you find out what caused them? cheers Pat
  14. Many thanks Bob and Chuck, appreciate this as even though I bloked the emails my junk folder was filling every hour or so Chuck, found that, lets hope that fixes it I have been using Chrome for a little while and never tried that; learnt something new - many thanks cheers Pat
  15. URGENT - I accidently clicked on a prompt this morning which allows my Browser to email me notifications. I have checked my Account settings - notification settings and turned all email options off and checked (radio button) for NO notifications. I still see and cannot remove the Browser notifications . I use Chrome, and I have checked the Browser Tasks/Extensions and removed/stopped the Notifications extension/task. I am being BOMBARDED with emails. How do I stop these as i will shortly simply BLOCK MSW in my email client as this is ridiculous - what prompted all this - has a recent change been made? cheers Pat
  16. Hi Mark, thanks but as stated above, I have tried all this and there is no way to turn that big box with the green tick "Browser Notifications" off at all. cheers Pat
  17. Unfortunately, I have had to resort to using the junk mail features of my email client to block the MSW domain as I was being absolutely flooded with notifications for just about every post being made on MSW - why can't I turn this off from my Account - Notifications settings? By accident? - some might argue clicking is a deliberate action - yes I agree, but the wording of the prompt that came up to accept the option made it sound like it was just for responses to the specific thread NOT everything! While the domain block has stopped filling my inbox 9at the moment) it is filling my junk mail folder very rapidly. Can anyone advise how to turn this off, as a search of the site does not seem to have any answers for it - PLEASE. cheers Pat
  18. Hi John, thaks for looking in mate. To date I have been making my own rope (usually white or unbleached cotton) and applying RIT dye using salt in the mixture to ensure colour fastness. My question was prompted by some research I am doing for a shop note I am putting together for some club members. In a recent workshop I conducted , I was asked a couple of questions relating to the colour of rigging and what was Stockholm Tar. The discussion then went onto why not use it? At that point I had not been aware that it was available commercially as it only came up in one of my internet searches. I was aware of the concoctions that some Russian modellers had used on their prize winning models (via MSW1) and, if I recall correctly, they did not seem to have the associated dripping or greasy consequences from their solution, and the result looked very realistic. I thought it might bear further investigation soooo ..... At the moment I use a mixture of RIT fabric dye mixing Dark Brown with a bit of Black. Some of the suggestions put forward merit some further testing I think. cheers Pat
  19. Hi Wefalck. I understand your point, and fully agree the root cause, but I don't think I can be as 'forgiving' I accept that Museums need to earn dollars based on the decisions of policy makers/politicians and bean counters; but, I cannot readily forgive them for employing people without the appropriate levels of experience or expertise to manage these institutions, or be responsible for collections for which they have no expertise. I also cannot forgive them for not supporting those of us who are merely wishing to preserve historical/maritime information and need some support to do so. Charging a reasonable (and I stress reasonable) fee for the service is acceptable; but, as an example, the fees charged by the NMM for a digital copy of of an unscanned drawing/plan are exorbitant (in my opinion). Also, if Museum staff are being obtuse or deliberately unhelpful, again in my opinion, this is very much not in the interests of the Museum or the greater good of historical/maritime information preservation. In the first example, again only an opinion, the NMM would probably generate more money and be able to digitalise their collection much more rapidly if the costs for 'first-time' copies were spread/amortised over the sale of multiple copies, rather than slugging the first researcher/request to ask for them. Seventy quid for each sheet is exorbitant, especially as the output is only JPG. The costs of previously digitised plans are reasonable - so I cannot understand their business model - BUT it is their call - just saying In the second instance, why are some Museums/Staff so unhelpful, surely it is within their purview to support related research? I know they may receive some frivolous requests, but these are easily identified. I have paid for most research I have conducted even engaging a Researcher as it is much cheaper than a trip to the UK In most instances the requested fees are very reasonable, and in some cases the information is offered openly and for free. in those circumstances I usually offer/and give a small donation to the Museum. I am not an Academic or professional researcher justa model ship builder looking for accurate information and we are the most affected by this "information highjacking" I feel. There are opportunities for Academics and professional researchers to access this info a little more easily, and usually free I think - so why should the hobbyist be slugged? By all means, have a gee whiz fancy gadget physical presence by all means, but please do not lock away models and information and make it too difficult to access them. I will get off my soap box and slink into a dark dingy corner now cheers Pat
  20. Hey thanks guys, some very interesting discussion and feedback to my initial question. The lessons I draw to date are: 1. Tar may not be a great idea no matter how realistic 2. A Walnut type colour should be what we aim for. 3. Artist supplies are a good resource. That said, I will still do a sample and see how it goes with time. from all that has been said however it sounds like it is not a great option for a model unless to achieve a specific purpose (e.g. JCF's build). My experiment will primarily be to determine/confirm the colour and effect to be achieved to match the real stuff on a hemp coloured line/thread. many thanks again Pat
  21. My vote is for a separate log also Denis cheers Pat
  22. I hope this post does not open a can of worms or offend, and I stress, is just my opinion based on recent interaction with a couple of Museums. I would not have an issue with the Museums turning into "theme parks" (very aptly put Graham) IF (a big if) the research component of the museum remained fully accessible. It seems that everything is now done to simply earn as many dollars as possible for the minimum outlay. Pulling in customers with the "gee whiz smokes and mirrors" is all fine; but, there are still many people interested in researching etc whether the models or related information. Nowadays, if you want information you have to pay an arm and a leg, and many curators/collection supervisors and the like make it as difficult as possible to get the information either because they want recompense/money for the information or find it all too difficult as it is not their area of expertise. I will not identify institutions but recently I was after some specific information. One institution went out of their way to be helpful and provided exactly what I needed; the other evaded my questions to the point of nearly being rude. I had photographic evidence the equipment that I needed better photos of was fitted to their display but I was informed that it wasn't and was pointed in all sorts of irrelevant directions to sources that I explained on several occasions was not what I needed - go figure? So much for them providing a service. The info will probably remain buried away in a dark hole somewhere until someone decides it is only taking up space and they ditch it. As far as I am concerned they believe they are only there to make money - not to provide a service or preserve history. cheers Pat
  23. Thanks JCF, that might be the way I go also as this will leave a residue in the lay lines very similar to the real thing (on a bigger scale); a dye simply colours the thread. Thanks for the link Jaager; Ed has some very interesting techniques worth exploring. If the Stockholm tar proves to messy or attracts too much dust this will certainly be worth a try. I think I will do a few samples and leave them exposed for a while to see how they handle heat and humidity as JCF inferred they might get greasy in hot weather, and also to see how much dust may accumulate over time. Thanks again for the feedback guys. cheers Pat
  24. Great job Dave, that is a very nice set pf boat chocks and spars on the gallows - looks great! cheers Pat
  25. Thanks very much for that great feedback and info JCF; much appreciated. Sounds like I may be able to use this stuff in lieu of trying to find and make up the Russian concoction. The second link I had shown in the first post is an Aussie outlet, but there would be so much of it I think it would satisfy the rigging needs of all our club members for the rest of their building lives "Slinging tar" - love the vision that implies I'll have a look in your latest build to see how you applied it; but one quick question, did you dilute it any for better penetration of scale rope? cheers pat