BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Very interesting subject matter; look forward to seeing the model;. cheers Pat
  2. Hi folks, just to confuse the situation more the following is an extract from the Contract for the building of the HMCSS Victoria (for the Colony of Victoria, Australia) built 1855: "Wales, Sheerstrake and Topside. - Mahogany, thick 3 inches, to taper forward and aft to 2 inches." cheers Pat
  3. Welcome aboard from just slightly further south cheers Pat
  4. Where did you get those small (6mm) blanks from in the USA please Eberhard? cheers Pat
  5. Great technique Danny cheers Pat
  6. Very similar but the 'hand' raulic version cherers Pat
  7. Hi Ulises, I went a slightly different route and purchased an adjustable desk frame to which I added a desktop I already had. This particular frame was the heavy duty version as the desktop was large and heavy and I wanted to allow for a 1:48 build and build board. This frame also allows me to drive the table down a little bit (not much but about 6 inches) below standard desk height - for the reason to do exactly what you want to do. Unfortunately, due to the design I cannot tilt it I don't know where you would get one as I bought mine from a local office furniture provider (and not cheap due to the 'heavy duty' frame) but the package looks like this: Cheers Pat
  8. Crude maybe, but very effective - great idea and thanks for sharing Bluto cheers Pat
  9. That makes sense - thanks cheers Pat
  10. Hi all, While researching a likely /representative rigging and belaying plan (Barque Rigged) for the HMCS Victoria, I came across the terminology "fairleads" in reference to some of the shrouds. The terminology/discussion from the CSS Alabama: Anatomy of a Confederate Raider by Andrew Bowcock, infers that the lower shrouds were led through fairleads (possibly to clear, or lead, the shroud clear of the roughtree rail, rather than fairleads attached to the shrouds for other rigging. Is this device/rigging technique familiar to anyone? regards Pat
  11. Thanks Pete. As to the S / F - I think it was simply that this was the way they wrote the S which looked like a long F back in those days Good luck with your book. cheers Pat
  12. Hi folks, I have a follow up to the initial question. Thanasis shows the fairleads that were probably used in HMCSS Victoria in the third option of his post above. Harold Underhill confirms this and also supplies a probable fairlead rigging plan in his book "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier". However, while implied in several books, there is not a clear statement made as to whether the bundles of lines leading through these fairleads go to a single belaying pin, or separate pins. The respective rigging plans suggest/imply they belay to a single pin (usually as a group/bundle of three lines, including any combination of the following - 2 x bunt lines plus one other line being either a leech, clew or downhaul). Does this make sense to have these lines (usually of small diameter cordage than other running rigging) belay to a single pin? cheers Pat
  13. Another interesting tid-bit Pete - you writing a book with all this research? cheers Pat
  14. Also try electronics store or suppliers. A brand by the name "Jensen" is provided along with caps, leur-locks etc and syringes which techs use for applying soldering pastes etc. Comes in a wide range of gauges and types. cheers Pat
  15. You can also get paste solder specific to copper I think - may also help. Try a jewellers supply store; AJS in Australia used to stock it. cheers Pat
  16. Great news Chuck. I am still on holiday in Canada, but will do a count of the numbers and sizes I need shortly after my return next month - standby for a largish order I have ye to decide whether these were used in the upper rigging also; are you familiar with practices in the 1850s? cheers Pat
  17. Great subject Eric, I'll tag along also. I love the level of detail and background you are providing. cheers Pat
  18. Hi Ron, that is a great story and I am sure your wife will appreciate the model as much as you. That was a real neat surprise for her. As to the futtock shrouds, I must admit I had some real fun there I made the futtock shrouds up individually off the model with a longer length than needed. By this I mean that I seized the hooks into place on a length of shroud line. I then hooked the futtock shroud onto the upper deadeye strap, wrapped (half hitched) the tail end of the shroud around the futtock spreader bar, pulled it taut (being careful not to pull the lower shrouds out of line in the vertical aspect) and seized the tail up to the closest shroud as close to the spreader as I could. I then dabbed a bit of diluted white glue and trimmed off the rag end after it was dry. BTW, my spreader bar was a length of stiff thin wire with a thread serving along its length - I simulated the leather caps on the end with a dab of leather colour paint. The real jobs had a stiff rope core I think. I found working (fitting the futtock shrouds) from aft to fwd best/easiest for me. I also did this before I did any of the ratlines. As too fat fingers - welcome to the club With the deadeye lanyards I found using much much longer lengths and doing a very loose weave initially, allowed me to get gingers in there without disturbing the other bits and bobs. I was then able to pull the lanyard taut and align the deadeyes using tweezers and a very fine pair of needle point plier. I hope that makes sense for you? cheers Pat
  19. Hi folks, I think I have finally settled on a method and technique that works for weaving the mouse for my HMB Endeavour (1:60). The following sequence of photos shows the rigging station I use, the jig itself and the various stages of the weave process. The finished product still has to have the furries removed and I still need some further practice to ensure the weave is uniformly formed on both sides of the cone. I use a couple of electronics wire clamps for temporary holders and a couple of needles for the rigging and weaving. I have found that using 13 strands of 0.25mm thread (horizontal threads) provides the best effect at this scale, while 19 (with larger thread) would be better at 1:48 etc. An odd number is required to keep the under/over sequence going. I start by positioning the former (turned on the lathe) on the rope (Stay in this instance - therefore LH laid and 1.0mm at this scale) and holding it with the alligator clamps (shrink wrap on the teeth to protect the rope). The alligator clamps/clips are fitted to springs to create a 'bowser' to I don't over tension and damage the rope. I hold the former in place with a dab of glue then I use the needle to pierce the rope as close as possible to the former (thin end of cone) and feed the weaving thread though the rope twice to anchor the weaving thread leaving a tail of sufficient length to serve the combined/bunched horizontal threads back a sufficient distance down the served rope - the long end of this thread is used to weave between the horizontal threads. I then tie a knot in the combined horizontal threads (13) at one end and then feed them individually through the holes in the jig in the sequence of 3 a space, 3 a space etc. When complete I recombine the threads at the other end and put some CA on that to hold them together and the use a fishing sinker on a swivel as a weight to keep some tension - not too tight as you need to pull the threads together. I then start to weave doing about three or four complete circuits of the weave each time using the needle. I found that weaving with the needle coming towards me such that I work from the bottom up and behind the rope (stay) worked best for me as a right hander. I kept losing track of the under/over sequence trying to work downwards behind the stay but experiment to see what works for you. After each group of three or four turns, I tension the them individually using a pin in a dowel to push the threads back (similar to how a loom would push each row of knotting/weaving) and to pull the threads to tighten the turn. When I have completed the weaving turns I use the finer needle to again take two passed through the rope (stay as close to the wider end of the former that I can, ensuring to tension the thread (careful not to break the thread) after the first pass and using the second to lock it. I then start the reduction process thinning by a third, then a half etc) and serving with the long end of the weaving thread over the reduced threads and using the electronics wire grips/clamps to temporarily hold the thread as necessary. I again finish passing the long thread through the rope/stay using the finer needle to finish the serve. I then finish thinning and serving the other end the same way. The weave (very close) up will have some 'furries' which I get rid of later. I now using my serving machine to finish serving the loop/strop (short end) of the rope finishing the serve at the appropriate place to form the eye and leave enough serving thread (having secured with the needle the same way) to use as the serving/whipping on the eye's end. Trim and clean up the finished product. I hope this explanation and the photos adequately show the technique but please fire away with any questions or suggestions/improvements to my jig or technique. cheers Pat
  20. Hi again, The wooden mouse form is about 4mm long and 3mm at max across - it had a slightly conical off axis shape if that makes sense? More like a ball/bead with one side drawn out a bit. I was able to turn these on my mini-lathe, but you could take a bead and add some putty, or even two-part epoxy to one side then shape it when dry, redrilling the hole if necessary on one side. cheers Pat
  21. Thanks for looking in and comments Eddie and ST7S Sorry don't know what name to use? The wooden mouse form was about 4mm long and to 3mm at max across - it had a slightly conical off axis shape if that makes sense? More like a ball/bead with one side drawn out a bit. I was able to turn these on my mini-lathe, but you could take a bead and add some putty, or even two-part epoxy to one side then shape it when dry, redrilling the hole if necessary on one side. cheers Pat
  22. Hi again Tom, I agree with LH, an English text option on the website, and the publication will help with sales I think (bigger audience :)) Will the plans be available on a CD (within the book/booklet) also? This is what many of the recent Seawatch publications offer. Our Government is starting a new tax on international internet purchases starting July - how they police it is another story - so paying VAT your end as well as an import tax (equivalent to VAT this end) may impact sales also. That said, Australia would be a very small market. Good luck Pat
  23. Nice setup Eddie, great use of space - you seem have thought the storage options through really well. cheers Pat
  24. Congratulations Tom, that is a lot of work you have completed. What sort of book format are you going to produce these in? cheers Pat