thibaultron

You could do one side clear, or one side painted clear with some areas clear to show off and area, like maybe the engine. Sort of like leaving some deck planks off to show interior detail.

I will also put in a recomendation for Chuck's Syren Models blocks.

The standing rigging on a Skipjack was generally steel cable, so a silver or gray thread would be right. All the running rigging would have been either tan (hemp)(early boat) or white (polyester/dacron type rope, if representing a boat still being used today). Your boat is looking good! PS. Your not the only bad speller! 🙂 Yes Frank's build awes me too! If you don't think you want to carve the Trailboards, I can send you a PDF. of one I drew for my Carrie Price build, so you can make a decal. That's what I'm planning for my Skipjack builds. I have one for the Kathryn, and the Willie Bennett. I can change the name to one of your choice.

Reed; Look up the Skipjack Kathryn at this site https://www.loc.gov/item/md1454/ Here are some pictures and a dimensioned shot from my CAD program of the Winder.

Nice metalwork!

Nice job!

Glad to help.

Midwest used to make a Skipjack model, before they dropped their model ship line. Dumas also makes a kit, but from the pictures I've seen of the completed model, it is a poor kit. I'm glad to see you added the ice shields, not many do. The general paint scheme of Skipjacks was white hull deck and cabin sides, with green or slate colored cabin tops, and natural mast and boom, with the mast white up to the boom crutch. During oyster season, the deck had wood planks covering much of it, to protect the deck from damage.

The wood coamings do look better!

The expression on his face makes him look like he is being held by a real gator!

Glad to see you back Frank!

I know that one major supplier of micro-motors to the Model Railroad community, and I imagine others, close shop after their factory was destroyed in the tsunami that hit Japan, and also set off the nuclear plant.

I am also a Model Railroader, and am signed up for the site. I found the article quite interesting.

Thanks again!

Thanks for the tutorial!

Looks great!

The Midwest Skipjack is also a good option. The Bennett is a model of a traditional Skipjack, and quite detailed. The Midwest one is of an "Oyster Pirate" (what the type was actually called). They were smaller faster boat used to illeagaly harvest oysters at night. Both kits are based on the real boats, The "Willie Bennett", and "Messenger". I have kits of both. Midwest also made two other Chesapeake Bay boats the Flatie and the Crabbing Skiff. I'm not sure if the Sharpie model is an CB specific design, or just one from the East Coast area in general.

Are you using the quick setting thin CA or the thicker ones? The thicker ones take a few seconds longer to set, giving you a little more time to position the door.

I'll be following too.

Your welcome, and thank you.

Nice! By the way, if you want a name for her, she is based on the "Messenger" from Chapplle's plans. She was an Oyster Pirate, a boat used to illegally dredge oysters.

Well dang! Painting with the old dope got quite interesting half way through. Won't be quite so fun with the new stuff!

Sinagot Fishing Boat – Heller – 1/60 – Plastic - Small PART 9 Went back yesterday and did some touchup to the model with a brush, freehand. It looks better now, though there are still some spots to correct. As masking tape wasn’t developed when these boats were first built, a little roughness at the edges can be excused. “That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it!” LOL First thought I selected a color that I think looks right for a varnished spar/mast. Vallejo Model Color 70.873 “US Field Drab”….. was the closest I found in my stash of paints. It is darker then the Humbrol brown supplied with the kit. The pictures below show lighter streaks on the spars, this is the wet color of the paint, before it dries. This time I moved my magnifying light over to the spray booth, and painted using it. I found a world of difference when using it. Much better control. I’ll wait a week for the paint to set, before I mask off the metal parts, for their black paint. I also had to put 3 coats of the Model Color on the base to get full coverage. I’m thinking of using some of my Vallejo stains, really thin paint, to add some grain to the base. The stains come from the Vallejo “Wood and Leather” set. I’m also thinking of putting a gloss varnish finish on it, similar to a real wood base. For the name plate I’m going to do the “wood” area like the base and the Name Plate area in brass paint, both letters and background. Below are pictures of the touched up hull, still some work to do, but better. The last couple mornings I’ve been insulating the back wall of what will be the ship building section of the shop. This is the hardest part, as it is a 16x7 foot section of shelving. So I have to take down the “stuff” do the wall, then put the shelving and “stuff” back up. Limited room makes this interesting. I’ve gotten the left hand side double studded and double insulated (R-13 x 2 for R-26), so far. The side wall shown in the left of the first picture is already double studded, and has the through wall AC installed. The AC unit is a 5000 BTU window unit, semi-permanently mounted with bolts to the wall. A few years ago someone broke into my shop by pulling out the window AC unit, so now the shop has no windows and both units are bolted to the wall!

Thanks for this tip! I'd never heard of this before, and just looked it up. In the very near future, I'm going to build a model of Gutenburg's press and need to stain all the basswood pieces for it.

I read an article years ago, about a model of a stationary steam engine at 1/32 scale, complete with every bolt of the original. Doesn't sound hard, until you find out that some of the bolts were 1/4 inch diameter 20 threads per inch, complete with scale hex heads and threads! The guy even made his own taps and dies to make the bolt threads and holes, as well as the wrenches to install them. The wrenches, at least were big enough to use by hand.