thibaultron

Perhaps use the existing sprues and cast another set in resin?

This site might help https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/quick-tip-flip-text-for-a-mirror-image-in-word/

Thank you!

PART 12 Now that I’ve gotten the camera reset to the full resolution, I’m going to continue the Hoist Ring fabrication. One feature the “new” camera lacks that the old, failing, one had, is that in Close Up mode, there is no option to force it to use the flash! It only has No Flash , or Auto Flash settings. The camera seems to default to No Flash when taking close ups. This makes taking the pictures more difficult. For these shots I had to either have my magnifying lamp illuminating the shot, or take the picture through the lens of the lamp’s magnifier. As this part is so small taking the shots through the lens was a requirement anyway, but still this is a pain! I’m still getting used to the camera, so the shots are not always as focused as I would like. The 0.008” half hard brass wire worked well for this application, both for forming well through all the operations and holding its shape afterward. Here are two shots of the tools I used in making the ring. The , in real life orange, but here red handled cutters are “Rail Nippers”, used to cut track rails in model railroading. I need to buy new ones, as the cutting edges are dinged up from cutting HO scale rail and hard wire over the years. These are more robust versions of the similar ones sold for plastic modeling to cut the parts from the sprues. One of the pair of tweezers I used is shown in both shots. I started by holding the wire in a pair of jeweler’s pliers. I bent the wire to form a rough loop then fed one end back over the other side, under both, and then back out. This created an overhand knot. The knot is used to make a firm connection at the point where the ring, eye, and hook are forged together in the full sized assembly. In this small 1/64th scale, I do not have the dexterity to make the ring from “forged” parts. The knot is almost invisible in this scale, so will serve the purpose of forming the joint. This is a picture of the ring with the knot tightened. This left the ring smaller than needed, so I placed the wire onto one jaw of the set of pliers with both tips smoothly tapered (black and red handles), Then I forced the wire down the jaw expanding it until I was the correct size (no picture). The piece was then clamped in a set of flat jawed pliers, to flatten the ring, and start tightening the knot at the joint, by turning the ends 90 degrees and pulling. The part was then placed back in the first set of pliers and the knot worked to tighten it, using both pulling on the ends and the regular, as opposed to self clamping, tweezers to tighten the knot on itself, and rotate the knot so that it was at 90 degrees to the plain of the ring. After some work the joint looked like this. Note that the end of the step where the pliers jump to the next size, luckily, happened to be the correct diameter of the finished ring. This made sizing the ring much easier!. While tightening the knot I had to hold the pliers closed by clamping them between my legs, so that I could use both hands to work the knot. The part was then returned to the flat jawed pliers, and the eye and hook ends again turned 90 degrees. Then a #77 drill bit was held over one end and the wire wrapped around it a couple times to form the eye. After This shot was taken, I rolled the eye closer to the joint. Next a #73 drill bit was held over the other leg (while still holding the first bit with my thumb), and the wire bent over it to form the hook. Here is the part after this shaping. At this stage it looked like this. I then trimmed the ends with a single blade razor knife. I still need to trim the eye loop more and form the hook a little better, but that will wait until I’m ready to install the parts. Once I paint or blacken the part, the knot should all but disappear. Here is the original drawing again, for comparison.

I never installed them. I removed the slides from the leg pieces, before I installed them. The drawers and the center slide section are stored for possible use in the future.

They really look good, and add to the model!

Just ordered a set, thanks Chuck!

PART 11 I worked on the Hoist Ring today. This is the diagram I showed earlier, and the following one with dimensions. The critical dimensions are: Ring Diameter = 5/32” – 5/32 drill bit as form, initially (see below) Eye Diameter = 0.015” - #77 drill bit Hook Diameter = 0.023” - #73 drill bit This was just a practice/trial and error session. This is just as well, as the “new” used camera I was using was set on 640X480 resolution, as I discovered when editing the pictures! I bought 0.008” copper, dead soft brass, and half hard brass wire, to experiment with. The half hard is what I used, the copper was way too soft to hold a shape under handling. I skipped the Dead Soft, and found the Half Hard quite workable, and sufficiently sturdy. There will be no load on the ring as the spar will be glued to the mast. In this scale, 1/64th, I will not try to replicate the forged construction of the original. At first I tried wrapping the wire around the 5/32nd bit then folding the ends across each other, then vertical to form the hook and eye legs, forming a sharp corner, but no firm connection. This worked, but the ring did not hold its shape during further work. The two corners separated when the ring twisted. For the “final” version, I used a pair of needle nose pliers, with a stepped taper on one jaw and a flat mating surface on the other. For the area where the legs will be, I tied a simple knot by looping one leg back through the ring. After a bit of pulling and tightening of the knot, I got a firm joint at the legs. Next I used a pair of flat jawed needle nose pliers to clamp the ring in and stretched the legs to be at right angles to the ring. I then held a #77 drill bit on one jaw, on top of a leg and wrapped the wire around it, forming the eye. Then while also holding the #77 in place, I repeated this on the hook leg, using a #73 drill bit. This time I only wrapped it enough to form the bottom of the hook The assembly now looked like this. After playing with it a bit using pliers and tweezers to get everything in line, I cut the excess wire with a single bladed razor. Here is the final trial piece. You can see some kinks in the main ring. I was reusing the same piece of wire as I practiced, and it was distorted from prior attempts. For the final pieces I'll have to refine the eye, but I'm calling this trial Hoist Ring a success. When I make the finished parts, I’ll take a better sequence of pictures. I finally got the camera reset to take full resolution (14megapixel) shots, so the pictures will be better next time. It may be a few weeks before I can get back to the model. I’m about to start a month long 12 hours a day 6 days a week short term job.

Played a little with the wire for the hoist fittings. The .008" (0.2mm) is too soft. I was able to make a rough fitting, but it collapsed before I could finish. I'll try the brass wires today, with pictures this time. I may have to build a simple jig.

I would say a coat of epoxy or the old fashioned RC aircraft dope. I used the aircraft dope on the outside and inside of my RC Combat Warship models.

Fantastic model!

Nice!

Well Done!

How did the old Dremel saws stack up?

I don't think you have to decorate both sides. I beleave the cross was only painted on the front of the sail.

Some do some don't, it would be nice if more did, but with the cheaper kits, it would add a chunk to the price.

Just a note on the sign. Never use RTV to mount the board like shown! The agent that sets normal RTV is an acidic compound, hence the vinegar smell, and will, over time, corrode that board. When building water tight boxes for my RC ships, I used aquarium grade RTV, which uses a non corrosive action. Even then I would mount the components with screws, and use the RTV only as a thin seal for the removable cover, and let the RTV set for a week or so, before closing the box.

Frank, I think that the figure "8"s are not rope knots, but twisted rings. See the enlarged section of your photo. What is the address of this picture, I'd like to look at the site.

There is/was one on Ebay, this morning, at least.

Great job, and congrats on an unusual model!

I have two of these models, to be used on my railroad layout which will be a port scene. along with a Shell tanker. All are way small in scale, but should look OK alongside the layout. The layout is based on one I saw in a magazine, but slightly larger. The author toted it as a 2X10 design, to enter it in a contest. After CADing it out, it became apparent that the one he showed in the photos that he actually built was closer to 2.5X12! So I had to enlarge the design. The ships in his pictures look good in the scenes. Trying yo fit even a single HO scale freighter in a reasonable sized layout would be difficult, let alone three or four. They have to be low models, also, so you can reach over them to uncouple the cars, or re-rail them.

The more I get to know people, the more I like my cat!

Hope it heals well. You might want to have that looked at, you may need a stitch or two.

Welcome to the forum, and thank you for the service you provided!

Part 13 I finished installing the drop leaf today. I discovered that one of the supports was warped, and there was no way just adding a washer or two behind the hinge was going to let the leaf swing down fully. This shot shows the warped leaf, on the right, if you look closely. This is after I added the plywood washers (see below). I cut two hinge leg shaped washers from the last scrap piece of the plywood I built the booth out of. This shot is of the piece, after the washers were cut out. I’d already installed them before I thought to bring the camera out. I drilled out three holes in the washer. To match those holes in the hinge leg. I drilled these the same size as those in the hinge, as in a metal washer. Then I removed the hinge screws and installed the ply washers between the hinge and the side of the booth stand. You can see it in the middle upper of this picture. With the thick washer in place I had to trim the corner of the supports a bit more, to clear the bottom of the hinge leg. To capture the supports when the leaf is up, and prevent them from being accidentally knocked back to the folded position, I put in two #10-24 flat head screws into the table. A number 6 or 8 would have been sufficient, but I reused an existing hole, so had to go with the #10s. I counter sunk the table for the screws, and secured them underneath with a nut. The support is swung out and placed with the screws on either side of it, preventing it from being knocked in either direction. The leaf lifts up high enough for the support to clear the screws when positioning the support. The picture below is way out of focus, but you can make out the screws and nuts. I drilled a 3/8” hole in the folded in supports and the side of the stand, to clear the screws when the leaf is folded down. Adding the ply washers, of course, moved the edge of the table away from the booth by 3/8”. To keep little “things” from rolling down that slot, I added a ¾” square batten to the side of the booth, that seals the gap, with the leaf up. Adding it to the table would have been better, but there was not enough “meat” at the edge of the leaf to hold screws. I would have had to go with a wider batten, to attach it to the table. I chamfered the ends of the batten, so that there was not a sharp corner to hit. I still have to replace various hinge screws with #8-32 flat head machine screws, but I don’t have any, at the moment.