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thibaultron

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Everything posted by thibaultron

  1. thibaultron
    Is the pin in the gun base plastic, or part of another PE? If plastic cut it off, and drill for a smaller pin.
  2. thibaultron
    Frank; I forget, what period in her life are you modeling her in? As built, present, etc. Did she have power dredge winches, or hand wound?
  3. thibaultron
    Did you use Chuck's method to create the volutes?
  4. thibaultron
    I insulated mine. Well worth the cost in reduced power bills.
  5. thibaultron
    A look at the above picture also answers your shroud question. The shrouds run under the yard, not over it, as in some of your pictures of the model.
  6. thibaultron
    A note: Amazon has the "Fokker Dr.I: The Aces’ Aircraft (Legends of Aviation 3D)", 2nd edition hardcover, listed as in stock for about $30 today! I just ordered one
  7. thibaultron
    If you have a scanner, scan the instructions, and blow up the pictures. Great work, so far.
  8. thibaultron
    For my "stuff", I model it full size, then rescale it when I send it to the printer. I'll have to look into Blender. My tutorial is intended more to teach how to use SketchUp, rather than as a drafting lesson. I wanted to show a few tricks I'd learned along the way, also. Here's a shot of a piece of equipment I'm designing for one of my model railroad locos. It is a conversion set to modify a Bachmann 2-8-0 to a Santa Fe prototype. I could have built it long ago, but enjoy the challenge of CAding/3D printing it. If it works out I plan on making it available to others. It's an oil bunker for the tender, with a new dome for the locomotive. The second dome is for me to trial fit first, so I don't ruin the "good" one. One thing that will come out of it is a set of accurate oil fill hatches for Santa Fe locos. Most production models have incorrect ones, even the Brass locos. I have several tenders that I need to upgrade. Also the 2 tool boxes are missing on most SF loco models. I will have to stretch/shrink some of the dimensions to fit each loco, but I have the basic models to start with. It may be too complex, with all those rivets on the side, but I'm interested in seeing if it works.
  9. thibaultron
    Lazyjacks on a modern vessel, run on both sides of the sail, so the rgging would be mirrored on the other side. They are used to shorten the sail, and keep it contained while you do.
  10. thibaultron
    Ebay has the Horico dental sanding strips
  11. thibaultron
    In one of the other threads, someone mounted his hull on an angled base, and drilled with a drill press. That is the method I'll use in the future.
  12. thibaultron
    Just shapeways, for now. A 3D printer is on the list, but I need to finish my shop renovation first.
  13. thibaultron
    I use SketchUp as my main 3D software, with DesignCAD as my drafting software. I have a thread on going from 2D to 3D that I did last year, in the forum, see my signiture below. What you can print, depends on the size of the parts. I was able to 3D print hand powered oyster dredge winches, about 3 X 2 foot, in 1/64th scale, but not the pipe dredge frames. For Shapeways the minimum floor/wall thickness, in their Frosted Detail plastic is .3mm, with wire minimum about 3X that thick. Long thin parts have a tendency to warp. I've also printed HO scale steam locomotive tender frames, in one of their cheaper plastics, and oil hatches for the tender tank top.
  14. thibaultron
    I have both his rigging books, great resource!
  15. thibaultron
    Manual tracing works best. There are NO bitmap to vector tracing programs that work well enough for modeling!
  16. thibaultron
    Nice idea!
  17. thibaultron
    For the less machine tool gifted, how about stacked disks, alternating large and small dia.?
  18. thibaultron
    I think the "temp" label refers to the bolt pointed to by the arrow. The outer timbers may be free floating, and serve only to tie the side and transom planking together at the corner.
  19. thibaultron
    I bought several, years ago. I'll have to go back and look through the files. Thanks.
  20. thibaultron
    Which Lanck rigging practicum has the seizing tech. you mention?
  21. thibaultron
    May they rest in peace!!
  22. thibaultron
    The frames were out by 1/16", or 2" in real life. I don't doubt that this may not have been true on the real boat, and probably fixed in much the same way. Years ago while living in MD. I read an article on a local large wooden boat builder, one of the last in the area. He said that all the boats he built, and all of the ones he knew about were asymetriacal by a fair amount, that modern ship builders would be surprised by. The nature of wood construction.
  23. thibaultron
    Looks like a good book, ordered one. Thanks!
  24. thibaultron
    In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum: When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.
  25. thibaultron
    Thanks!

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