thibaultron

Dennis; I have the 80s version of this kit. I started it back then, but it got put away. I plan to restart construction, after I finish my present round of half finished ship models. For the based/track, paint the ground gray. as it represents gravel ballast. The gravel held the track and ties in place, as well as spreading the load across the ground. By the way, NASA's giant crawler used to move rockets from the assembly building to the launch pad, also runs on a crushed gravel road, for the same load spreading reason. During a tour, they said that there is no paved road in the engineering world, that could support that load, only crushed gravel. The ties would be a dark brown to a weathered gray, depending on how long they have been in place. The ties were Creasote(sp) treated, like telephone poles, only with a heavier treatment. Many lumber yards sell used ties as landscaping timbers. You can go to one to see the proper color. If you are going to weather the loco, paint the individual ties slightly different shades, to represent variations in treated color, and different ages of ties. The rail would be a light to heavy rust color on the sides, with a lighter rust color on the top, with a bright steel color on the inside top of the rail, where the wheels run along that edge. The plates on the ties that the rail slots into, are also steel, so should be a rust color also. I second the idea to find some sticks to make a real wood load for the tender. It would look much better, and probably be easier than painting the plastic part to look like real wood. For the snow plow base, remove the large switch machine "motor", and buy a HO scale hand throw turnout stand. The throwout/switch you show in the picture is an Atlas product, and the switch machine supplied is sized for mechanical function/durability, not a scale assembly. You can find some at Walthers, a model train supplier, or at you local Hobby Shop (but not at Hobby Lobby, Micheals, etc.). For your usage, get a non working scale throw. This type of throw would be the most likely type for a railroad that had this plow to use anyway. Here are some pictures of some from the Walthers site. Another way that both sides would use to destroy track was to remove the rail, heat the center red hot, and bend it around a tree, in a complete loop, trapping it in place. This made the rail completely useless. This worked especially well in the South, as they had quite limited industry to manufacture new rail.

I understand that bee's wax is slightly acidic/basic and can damage rigging over time. They sell a similar wax, used by museums that is PH neutral. I can't remember where I saw it for sale though.

Use aluminum wire, to hold the parts? I don't know if this would work, it might melt. The AL wire would, however, not stick to the parts.

Also, Thank You, I've saved a copy too.

Opps! Forgot to put in the link, sorry. http://www.theluthierblog.com/articles/shaving-braces-kunz-squirrel-tail-plane/

Start by drilling a large hole in the center of the hatch, then trim to the outline with knives and the other tools.

Haven't given up on the build. I've just been working 6 to 7 days a week, and spent the last week and a half between jobs working on the renovation of the back of my shop. This area will become the ship building section, when done.

Here is a site about "Acurizing" the Kunz plane.

You could do one side clear, or one side painted clear with some areas clear to show off and area, like maybe the engine. Sort of like leaving some deck planks off to show interior detail.

I will also put in a recomendation for Chuck's Syren Models blocks.

The standing rigging on a Skipjack was generally steel cable, so a silver or gray thread would be right. All the running rigging would have been either tan (hemp)(early boat) or white (polyester/dacron type rope, if representing a boat still being used today). Your boat is looking good! PS. Your not the only bad speller! 🙂 Yes Frank's build awes me too! If you don't think you want to carve the Trailboards, I can send you a PDF. of one I drew for my Carrie Price build, so you can make a decal. That's what I'm planning for my Skipjack builds. I have one for the Kathryn, and the Willie Bennett. I can change the name to one of your choice.

Reed; Look up the Skipjack Kathryn at this site https://www.loc.gov/item/md1454/ Here are some pictures and a dimensioned shot from my CAD program of the Winder.

Nice metalwork!

Nice job!

Glad to help.

Midwest used to make a Skipjack model, before they dropped their model ship line. Dumas also makes a kit, but from the pictures I've seen of the completed model, it is a poor kit. I'm glad to see you added the ice shields, not many do. The general paint scheme of Skipjacks was white hull deck and cabin sides, with green or slate colored cabin tops, and natural mast and boom, with the mast white up to the boom crutch. During oyster season, the deck had wood planks covering much of it, to protect the deck from damage.

The wood coamings do look better!

The expression on his face makes him look like he is being held by a real gator!

Glad to see you back Frank!

I know that one major supplier of micro-motors to the Model Railroad community, and I imagine others, close shop after their factory was destroyed in the tsunami that hit Japan, and also set off the nuclear plant.

I am also a Model Railroader, and am signed up for the site. I found the article quite interesting.

Thanks again!

Thanks for the tutorial!

Looks great!

The Midwest Skipjack is also a good option. The Bennett is a model of a traditional Skipjack, and quite detailed. The Midwest one is of an "Oyster Pirate" (what the type was actually called). They were smaller faster boat used to illeagaly harvest oysters at night. Both kits are based on the real boats, The "Willie Bennett", and "Messenger". I have kits of both. Midwest also made two other Chesapeake Bay boats the Flatie and the Crabbing Skiff. I'm not sure if the Sharpie model is an CB specific design, or just one from the East Coast area in general.