thibaultron
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Everything posted by thibaultron
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Wye River Models sells one, but I don't know what the kit consists of. I have a Horizon Models one, but you have to do major carving on it to get it even close to the proper hull thickness. Wye River seems to sell a lot of their kits that strongly resemble the old Horizon ones, so their's maybe the same. -
What does the engine look like?
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Nice book, downloaded it. It will be interesting to look at, can't read Dutch, but the drawings are great!
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I'm offering three kits for sale to the forum members, before I put them on Ebay tomorrow night (Sun 6/10) The first is a Model Expo solid hull Phantom 1800s (1/96) (the newer kit) still sealed. I'm asking $30 plus actual shipping. The shipping box weights 2 1/2 pounds and is 17"X10"X4" The second is the Billings Boats Viking ship Roar Ege about 900AD (1/25) opened for inspection. I'm asking $50 plus shipping. The shipping box weights 4 pounds and is 27"X12"X4" The third is the Model Expo/Model Airways (1/16) Sopwith Camel kit purchased new and only opened for inspection. I'm asking $100 plus shipping. The box weights 5 pounds and is 27"X12"X4". Note that most of the fuselage on this plane is wood, hence most of the laser cut parts are the wing ribs.
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- model expo
- billings
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Frank. Would a DXF or DWG file of the trailboard, help you? I Used the Kathyrn trailboard as one of the options for my Carrie Price model, that I will someday soon (hopefully) continue. Here is a picture of port side one, minus the name, which I could add. The drawing is smoother and can be scaled, the convertion to a JPG roughens it.
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Frank. They say "The Devil is in the details!". Keep up with Your level of details! Fantastic work and a great build thread!
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Painting a ships hull
thibaultron replied to bluenose2's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Snow, nice model! -
Painting a ships hull
thibaultron replied to bluenose2's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
There were two types of early "anti-fouling" type coatings used below the water line: White Stuff and Black Stuff. The White Stuff was used in colder waters, the Black Stuff in tropical climes. The Black Stuff was a dark brown to black color the White Stuff was an off white. Vallejo Ivory 70918 in the Model Color line is suposted to be a good match for White Stuff. -
Generally all ship's boats were lowered and towed behind during battle, so them hanging in front of the guns would not affect battlewothyness. Servicing the guns and port for normal cleaning may have been a pain though.
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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One thing to note. Most of the modern Diorama/Figure painting books assume you start with a model with heavy woodgrain patterns cast into the surface, not a smooth plastic one. Buy some of those cheap plastic "For Sale" signs at the hardware store and practice on the white backside, of the sign. Pratcicing on cardboard or paper will give different results, as they absorb the paint differently. These are great for practicing airbrushing also, as well as testing your paint color/mixes for final dried look. I tried several techniques using a Revell DR-1 1/32nd model. While the model is a newer one, they cast it with distinct wing ribs rather than the gentle sagging fabric skin between the ribs. The distinct ribs allowed me to segragate the various tries, and then record the results, for future use.
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Doll house curtains (1/12th scale), might be a source, as well as 1/16th figures or 1/12th. In either scale maybe a child's figure, were the scale difference may not be noticible. On a side note I once owned a 17' sailboat and found an old ad for it. The boat looked much bigger in the add, with more people in the cockpit than it could ever hold in real life. It wasn't until you looked closely that you noticed that the occupents were all children, about 6 or 7 years old!
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Interesting and unusual build! I'm in. One question, in the "movies" they always show the windmill turning, with no cloth on the "sails". Don't they need the sail/vain frames covered to actually run?
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Beautiful model!
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CAD is an alternative to the Mylar. You still suffer from paper changes, but you can reprint the sections of the plan as you get to them, so long term changes can be compensated for.
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The Shapeways printers are much higher resolution than the ones you can buy, reasonably. Theirs run in $10,000s of dollars. As in many things in life, money brings quality. In my experience, depending on your scale, larger pieces can be printed in 1/96th scale smaller in 1/64th or greater. In HO (1/87.1), They have successfully printed 1 1/2" rivet detail for me. In 1/64th some larger cleats. and cheek blocks.
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You might want to consider an ink jet over a laser, many of them have higher resolution.
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I'm following along with interest! In about 1960, when I was a "Wee Lad", my grandfather built a 16 foot runabout, over the course of a couple years, at his camp on the ST. Lawrence River. I have many years of fond memories of both the Grandparents, that camp and the boat, all gone now. I wish I knew what plans he used (I think it was a kit boat), even some pictures of it. Both my brother and I (as adults) tried to get him to sell us that boat when he sold the camp, but he wouldn't. We never figured out why.
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My great-aunt's Travel Diary c.1903
thibaultron replied to Mike Shea's topic in Nautical/Naval History
At least they can read cursive!, here in the US they are seriously talking about not teaching cursive! Claim no one uses it any more. -
On a model getting that slight catenary on the shrouds to look right would be difficult. They are like the rest of the rigging, in real life all the rigging sagged some, even under load. On a model, assuming the thread did not curl, or misshape itself when not under load, getting that sag would be very difficult. You also have to consider the audience Others looking at your sagging rigging will just think you did a poor job.
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