ChrisLBren
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Everything posted by ChrisLBren
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An update ! Ive committed to setting aside an hour a night 5 days a week - and Ive added the fenders and ships ladder. The fenders were tricky to get right - I used an old planking iron to get the correct bend to fit flush with the hull. After i add the channels, I suppose i need to start thinking about some sort of stand - open to suggestions - Im bummed i didn't predrill the keel to accept rods so i can use brass pedestals.
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Thanks guys - top ones are pear dyed with 5 coats of Fiebings Leather dye. I'll apply a base coat of 50/50 diluted pure tung oil to the other steps before installing them to the hull and then finish them off with pure tung oil as a final coat.
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Well at last made a few hours of modeling happen this weekend - boarding ladders completed and ready to be mounted on the hull. Baby steps - feeling re energized to wrap this one up.
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Thanks for the input Toni ! Your build is coming along so nicely. I really love this little schooner and want to build her. I did rip out some wood this morning for the boarding ladders for Confederacy - so we will see if this helps re motivate me to finish her.
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Hey Mark, Frolich chose to draft frames and build it over a plug (much like building a ships boat) in the Art of Ship Modeling. The most common approach is to use bulkheads - this Monograph is designed to be the introduction to ship building for novices. You could probably cut out all 11 bulkheads and former with your scroll saw over one weekend easily. Chris
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Actually the monograph depicts 11 bulkheads for a POB approach - no drafting necessary Mark !
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Thanks Michael and Ben for your feedback. Ben - cross sections aren't really my thing at the moment. What's attractive about the La Jacinthe is that it is an elegant little ship - @ 1/48 the hull is only 19 inches long and rigged and masted it would be 30 inches. Its shouldn't be too much of a challenge/stressful - but a great ship to focus on perfecting the basics while learning some new techniques. I really want to fully rig and add sails to a model. Theres some modest carving and metal work. And only two guns. If done right this ship can be a museum piece. This example won many awards in Europe. http://5500.forumactif.org/t1490-la-jacinthe-de-snarlev-au-1-48eme Based on my schedule a 120 gun monster is off the table for the next 18 years - I am going to give Confederacy a go again this weekend and see if i can get re energized. But I've been in love with this pretty little schooner for some time now. So we will see, Chris
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Thanks for the responses guys - honestly because my time is so limited - maybe a more complicated full frame build is not the answer - but rather an easier subject where I will see payoff a lot sooner - and I can focus on improving the fundamentals (planking, metal work, rigging, and possibly sail making etc). I've had my eye on this beauty for some time - Frolich built this one and called it a "ship modelers holiday" between lengthy builds in "The Art of Ship Modeling" The price is about the same as enlarged plans of Le Gros Ventre @ 1/36th http://www.editions-ancre.com/Product.aspx?ID=3807269&L=EN Thanks for chiming in Mike - you know my world right now !!! Chris
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Thanks Nils. Group I am stuck - I haven't had any motivation to build (which is a shame because I can see the finish line on this one). I used to work on Confederacy every day when I started her in Nov of 2009. I do have 18 month old twins and can use that excuse but there are others on this board in the same situation as me. About the best I've done with Confederacy lately is dust her off. I still follow builds on this site as well as the Ancre site and do research. I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy the Le Gros Ventre plans blown up to 1/36th from Gerard Delacroix (I already own the monograph and plans at 1/48) and and start assembling some frames on that build. Maybe sawing some wood for a new project will get me motivated again about ship modeling and enthusiastic about wrapping up Confederacy. This lethargy has nothing to do with not being happy with my build - in fact this one is the first build I'm proud of. Can anyone else out there relate ? Chris
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Hi Gaetan - Curious about this Hahn build - what ship is this ?
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I'll never understand you kit bashers(smile). It's easier just to scratch build if you don't want to build out of box with the materials you've already paid for as part of the kit.
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They are necessary - I'm working on the fenders and chess trees on my Confederacy - to get the types of bends necessary for a flush fit to the hull with a hardwood - its really handy. Chris
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I've posted this ship on my Confederacy log as well - I agree Karl - perfect ship and will use this log when I make my attempt at her.
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She's a transport ship - love the name ! That Pear is a very interesting in color - much paler than the Swiss Pear i see here in the US. Are you going to build exclusively in Pear ?
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Hi Jay, My process with pure Tung Oil is simple - apply first coat thinned 50 percent with mineral spirits (this is key for your base coat for maximum absorption) - let dry for 24 hours. Lightly steel wool with 0000 - then apply second coat full strength - let it sit for 10 -15 minutes then buff with t shirt - watch for seepage (you shouldn't get much - since you thinned your base coat). Again let dry for 24 hours - steel wool and apply final coat full strength and remove excess after 10 minutes or so. Let dry 24 hours and you're done - I don't steel wool final coat. Keep in mind this is using pure Tung Oil on a hardwood (in my case Pear) - you should be good to go after letting the final oil coat cure for a few days. I've never had a problem glueing a part to a surface i have applied this finish to - again you do need to sand or scrape the area you will be glueing the part to - then just reapply some oil after the part has dried - works like a charm. Chris
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Sure Ill add to the discussion - I use pure tung oil as a finish. In order to glue a part to the finished surface - all you need to do is sand the area with 320 grit or scrape. Then you glue (PVA or Cryno) - and after dry reapply the oil for a perfect finish. Chris
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Hi Tom, I will be watching your progress as well - wishing you the best. I also own this Monograph and hope to start her next year - in 1/36th scale. Chris
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Looks terrific Remco - cant go wrong with Fiebings. Personally i think treenails standing out against dark/black wales looks odd. Subtlety is always better. Chris
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Hi Mike, Kit bashing to me always sounds way more difficult than just buying a scroll saw, quality wood, source whatever fittings you need (from Chuck for instance), and doing it yourself with solid plans (smile). Look forward to watching your progress ! Chris
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Looking really nice Danny - I'm at a similar point on Confederacy - i know how difficult it is to scribed parallel grooves on the headrails and cheeks. Ben to answer your question - swiss pear is softer to carve than box. Euro box is the best if you can find it, costello box almost as good. I had some costello crumble on me while attempting these rails on my build. Can't imagine them coming out half as good as yours Danny in swiss pear - kudos ! Chris
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Thanks guys - your compliments are giving me some motivation to get back in the shop this weekend. Work and the babies are making it really tough right now. I can see the finish line - if i can just steal an hour here or there it should help me to get some momentum going again.
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Paint and Tung Oil
ChrisLBren replied to tinyellie's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Id use the Oil afterwards - it should have no affect on the painted surfaces if they are completely dry (meaning wait a few days of the paint fully drying out before applying the oil). The wood will soak it up like a sponge - the painted surfaces shouldn't as the paint will act as a barrier for absorption. Hope this helps. Chris -
For me its Art of Shipmodeling B. Frolich and Volumes 1 -3 of the 74 Gun Ship Boudriot - Volume 4 is on my wish list.
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Simulated caulking
ChrisLBren replied to Nirvana's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Fun discussion Nigel - but maybe I'm off here in understanding conversions - 1/32 is 1.5 times larger than @1/48 and 1/24 is 2 times larger than @ 1/48. 1/36 is 1.33 which just seems odd....
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