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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. I tend to use 0.1mm diameter line for serving, but if I think the true scale size of the line to be served would look too bulky, I reduce the size of the line to be served to allow for this. How it fits around any scale heart or block also has to be taken into account, sometimes compromises are required to get the right effect. You should start a build log, don't think there are any other examples of Liverpool on here. Cheers, B.E.
  2. Tom, this is a link to the online version of Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, 1794, http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/ Hope you find it useful. B.E.
  3. Hi Tom, I would be inclined to use hearts at that date. My reading of Lees (page 40) is that deadeyes were used for the lower stays up to 1690, and hearts thereafter. Steel's description is: THE FORE-STAY has a heart turned in the lower end with a throat-seizing, and two round seizings above, and the end of the stay capped with canvas, whipped and tarred, then set up with a laniard, that reeves alternately through the heart in the stay and the heart in the fore-stay-collar on the bowsprit. The first four turns lie in scores cut in the hearts, and are tallowed, that the strain may be immediately given to all the turns at once. The laniard is then strained tight by tackles, thus: The upper block of a luff-tackle is hooked to a selvagee fastened round the stay, and the lower block is hooked with a cats-paw to the laniard: then the outer-block of another luff-tackle is hooked with a cats-paw to the fall of the other tackle, and the inner block hooked where most convenient. The fall leads in upon deck, and is swayed by all hands. Then two of the turns, are stopt together with a rope-yarn to prevent their coming up, and more turns taken, and hove on, as before, till the laniard is expended; the end is then well stopped. THE PREVENTER-STAY is set up the same as the fore-stay. THE MAIN-STAY sets up, as the fore-stay, to a heart seized in the bight of the main-stay-collar above the bowsprit-chock. Steel does make reference to the use of deadeyes as an alternative to hearts for the Bobstays and Bowsprit shrouds. Regards, B.E.
  4. I did find a painting by Robert Cleveley who was an eye witness at the time of the war, and served aboard the Asia as Clerk to the Captain. His painting The Occupation of Newport appears to show the British ships wearing the White Ensign. Here's the link. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=The+invasion+of+Rhode+Island+1776&hl=en&biw=1344&bih=720&site=webhp&tbm=isch&imgil=Z2s-ScLsU8jJBM%253A%253BcbZkZQl7q4-2JM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fen.wikipedia.org%25252Fwiki%25252FBattle_of_Rhode_Island&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Z2s-ScLsU8jJBM%253A%252CcbZkZQl7q4-2JM%252C_&usg=__31uR3SrjjSHMASyy1AWWM1HDLlw%3D&ved=0ahUKEwjF_8P10IrSAhXlKcAKHUvkCQMQyjcIPQ&ei=z16gWIXcG-XTgAbLyKcY#imgrc=ZROkdfV977raoM: There is a colour print of this painting on the cover of a book I have called Navies and the American Revolution 1775 - 1783 (Chatham Pictorial Histories) and the painting clearly shows a White Ensign on the ships right and centre. ps: you will find many photo's of my Pegasus build on my log - click on the link below my name. Cheers, B.E.
  5. Ensigns can be a tricky issue Tom. At the time Liverpool was serving in the American Station Vice Admiral Richard Howe was in Command. It would follow but not exclusively that ships of his squadron would wear his colours. The question is was Lord Howe, Vice Admiral of the Red, White, or Blue? I'm not sure, and the info I have doesn't mention this fact. If you can find some contemporary paintings of the naval engagements around 1778 this may show the Ensign colours. I don't think anyone would gainsay you whatever Ensign colour you use provided it isn't the 1801 version. I will be using the Red Ensign on my Pegasus, which was heading for Newfoundland when she was lost in 1777. Regards, B.E.
  6. Hi Tom, are we talking about HMS Liverpool 1758-1778, 28 gun Coventry Class 6th Rate? B.E.
  7. I have not used that method but it seems very tortuous to me. At 1:96 scale the line should be at 0.1mm diameter, and have a clear differential to the shroud line. My approach would be to trial both a clove hitch and a simple overhand knot and choose which I thought looked the best. It may be that at 1:96 scale the overhand knot may look neater. I tend to use the overhand knot at smaller scales, it is my preferred method of choice for scales down to around 1:150 B.E.
  8. Wonderful concept Daniel, and a great result at only 1:100 scale Great stuff. M.
  9. I seem to have missed this log, what a fine job you are making of her Steve, a great looking model. ps: I quite like a degree of uniform sag in the large stays, think it gives an impression of 'weightiness', it's something I try and manufacture Regards, B.E.
  10. Beautifully neat work Thomas, and a great explanation of your approach to this fiddly little exercise. A classic 'how to' post. B.E.
  11. Kudos Martin for providing your Fly with a decorative Drift rail, a tricky job on such a narrow rail. The Board would simply not sanction such fripperies on my Pegasus so a plain rail it was, although they did grudgingly sanction a simple ogee pattern for the Waist Rail. I think yours looks good, but take heart much of it will disappear behind the shroud rigging and Anchors so don't over fret about . onwards Sir, onwards. B.E.
  12. Just caught up on your build Peter, the full shot pic shows what fine lines she has, and what a fine model she is. Nice mod work on the ships boat, and your sail looks excellent to me Good stuff. B.E.
  13. Just come across your log Hennie, that's a fine build you're doing, great work. Regards, B.E.
  14. Thanks Mark and Duff. Mark: Lees refers to these as ornamental deadblocks, with the tacks crossing over for belaying on the Fo'csle. Boomkins were introduced around 1710 and by 1745 all rates were fitted with Boomkins. Lees says that initially the tacks rove thro' both the block on the Boomkin and the deadblock before leading up to the Fo'csle, albeit without crossing over. Fitting of the deadblock was then gradually dispensed with. Duff: The more I think about it the more I am leaning towards rigging the tacks outside of other lines, the trick will be to get them to hang in a natural fashion. Harland (Seamanship in the age of sail) has something to say about the operation of the tacks and sheets and refers to the use of tricing lines with thimbles to hold the lines up to prevent them from getting tangled or dragging in the sea. Similarly the anchor stocks presented obstacles to the clear run of the sheets and tacks and Timenoguys were rigged to prevent the lines getting fouled. This is Steels definition: TIMENOGUY. A Rope fastened at one end to the fore-shrouds, and nailed at the other end to the anchor-stock, on the bow, to prevent the fore-sheet from entangling. The above gives the clue that the sheets and tacks when the ship was without sails were secured to keep them tidy and out of the way. The photo of the Medway does show the tacks pulled forward with lines that seem to be secured to the Forestay. Thanks for your insights guys. B.E.
  15. Thanks for responding Jason, you may have a point. Here the Fore tack is led outside of all the other lines before feeding thro' the Tack block. Here the more direct route which takes it inside the jib stays, a route which is shown on the previous examples of models both old and new. Aesthetically I do prefer the second version, but still have that niggling thought about the clear run of the tack once the sail is set. The fact that some notable modelling icons have gone that route just adds to the indecision. I don't need to finalise the tacks and sheets for a while so there is plenty of time for me to fret over it yet, but thanks again for your input. Regards, B.E.
  16. Hi Bug I fitted the side tackles on my Pegasus with the guns in place, but I did fake it with tackles made of wire with a hook each end and frapped. I did this because I wanted an element of sag in the tackles which the wire allowed for. I am thinking you could make these off the model and secure the hooks into the carriage and bulwark rings secured with a spot of ca. The full details are on page 4 of my log. Cheers, B.E.
  17. I can't make my mind up about the run of the Fore tack, is it inside or outside the lines that run into the Foc'sle; models I've looked at all seem to show the tack inside other lines, which seems impracticable to me, but was it accepted that the tack overran other lines when the sail was set? This photo of the Medway model is interesting. The Fore tack down from the strop of the sheet blocks at the yard (which would be attached to the clue of the Foresail when set) seems to run inside some of the lines. The belay end in this case is coiled and hitched to the guard rail across the Head works. On this model of Minerva the tack runs outside of the Bowsprit shrouds, but inside the jib stays. On the Longridge Victory, where there is a double tack, it clearly runs inside the lines coming into the Foc'sle. On the Wyllie model of Victory which has the Fore sail set, the tack line is inside the jib guys and fouls them as it crosses the cathead to the clue. Running the tack line by its most direct route inevitably means it will be inside some of the lines running in from the spritsail yard and jibboom. This is the essence of my doubts, logic dictates to me that from the clue end the line should run outside all other rigging before it passes thro' the tack block to belay at the Foc'sle. Any thoughts on this? B.E.
  18. I'm a fan of having a combination of slack and taut lines on a model, mainly to impart a sense of weightiness to the lines. I use the diluted pva method, painted on, and the sag formed either by weights or rolling a paintbrush handle over the line. The advantage of diluted pva is that the line can be further adjusted by re-wetting. B.E.
  19. Nice progress Doug, the Syren guns are a big improvement over the generic Amati ones, and they look to be well positioned within the gunports. B.E.
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