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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. Not a great selling point when seeking a response to your enquiry. B.E.
  2. I've used it for years Antony, do all my rigging by reference to it. Steel is the basis of most modern writers on ship rigging. I do have a hard copy of Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, sailmaking, and Rigging, printed in elephant folio format by DN Goodchild. USA. It's a nice thing to have, but I use the online version constantly. Cheers, B.E.
  3. You may find the answer here. http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/sail-making-vol-i/ B.E.
  4. Nice job on the Crowsfeet Bob, they're not on my favourite job list either, in fact I've still not tied them off just in case I disturb them during the later rigging process. Interesting that Peter Goodwin indicates 1½" circ line (0.20mm diameter at scale) for the Crowsfeet; Steel shows ¾" circ line (0.1mm diameter at scale) in his tables for sloops of 300 tons so I went with 0.1mm line. A quick check between Goodwin and Steel's tables shows that Goodwin indicates slightly heavier rigging lines overall, and he quotes Lees in his sources list. I wonder if I could have got away with 0.20mm line, I think slightly heavier line for the Crowsfeet would make life easier. B.E.
  5. Very nicely done Russ, and what a fine Christmas day gift, I too would be very proud to have such a wonderful model made by an old friend. I always think it is special to have a model that is representative of the area in which you live, sort of promotes local history. Happy Christmas to you. B.E.
  6. Hi Mark, the Burton Pendants have nothing to do with the Main Stay. They are the first item of rigging over the mastheads and are used to attach tackles for heavy lifting. This can be by a thimble spliced into the end of the pendant into which a tackle is hooked, or by a block spliced into the end. They are followed over the masthead by the shrouds, back stays where appropriate, and finally the stays. Hope this helps. B.E.
  7. The problem with parrel trucks is that unless you are working at large scale they are very small particularly for the upper yards and my opinion is that scale is more important than material. Wood is fine if the scale suits but I had to resort to glass seed beads at 1:64 scale for the topsail yards, and micro brass tubing for the T'gallants. If authenticity is what you're after it should be borne in mind that parrel trucks are slightly barrel shaped rather than round. B.E.
  8. Neat work Bob, I'm glad to see that you have had the foresight to fit the Main Topsail Brace lead blocks to the Mizen, something I missed to my cost in time trying to retro fit them. B.E.
  9. Thank you Kirill, I must have missed your April post; the old forum with the full build log no longer exists, but I do have all the details fortunately. JPAM, glad you like the build B.E.
  10. Lol the mast pins were the last thing I saw before Jason's reply, now it makes perfect sense. That belay pin arrangement on the Mizen is the same as shown on the Pegasus kit plans, but I opted for the cleat arrangement. Glad we cleared that up B.E.
  11. Very nice work on the masts Bob. Re the mast 'pin' is that simply to secure the yard to the mast as a modellers aid to rigging? I am a bit confused because you mention cleats as the usual fitting, The only cleats I am aware of in that area are the sling cleats on the yards. I have used small pins on my Pegasus to hold the yards whilst I rig the parrels etc. it makes life easier. B.E.
  12. Syren is a beautiful model subject Thomas, and you surely have done her justice. B.E.
  13. Good decision re the cradle Mark, a finished model cradle doesn't have to be as heavy as a build cradle, and I prefer them to the pedestal look. B.E.
  14. I am also embroiled in rigging in tight places at present and it can be a frustrating exercise; snagging previously rigged lines is an ever present hazard. Personally I don't mind a degree of slackness in the centre line stays, provided the slackness looks natural, in fact I try to contrive it to impart a look of 'weightiness' on my models, the same thing applies to the braces and pendants. I take it that the slackness has nothing to do with humidity, and as you say re-rigging can be very difficult without backtracking many stages, without any guarantee that the same thing won't happen again. In the past, given such circumstances, I have resorted to using very fine line attached to either the collars or leads of stays to pull them tighter to the mast, and tried to hide the means in the mass of other rigging. Cutting the line to re-attach rather depends on how much slack you have, I can't imagine that you would have sufficient to make re-attachment an easy option, or sufficient to make an authentic seizing or eye around the mast. Slack Backstays are not such an issue because the lanyards to the deadeyes can be re-rigged. I rather think there is no magic bullet to address this problem. B.E.
  15. Nice detailing Daniel, those Foc'sle rail sheaves are very necessary, so many lines to belay in that area. M.
  16. Kleenex is an option because it can be split into layers and has better water retention properties than some tissues. However Silkspan is the best option, it can be obtained in different weights, and works well when painted with diluted pva. It makes realistic sails particularly at smaller scales. B.E.
  17. Looking very smart Doug, nice contrasting colours on the hull, walnut looks great against the white hull and blue of the topsides. B.E.
  18. You must be well satisfied Pat, a fine model The masthead pennant looks just right, and nicely arranged . Well done. B.E.
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