Blue Ensign

Impressive work Yves, that model is certainly going to have 'presence' B.E.

Post Thirty-seven Planking - Band Two In the light of the modifications to Band one, Band two is re-set and the tick divisions re-marked. 1221 In practice I am following the previous planking line and the bow taper remains constant at 3mm. A shallow edge bend at the bow is required on each strake, and full width planks run to the stern. 1218 The run up to the stern post requires both edge bend and twist on the aftermost planks of strakes 11,12,13. 1207 I found it easier with these to fit the stern post edge first and trim the other end to fit the plank butt. The tight curve was formed from a longer strip to ease the process and avoid splitting. With the eight strakes of the second band completed it is time to review and re-check the planking runs. 1236(2) The planking line matches each side as measured down from the keel against the bulkhead positions, and at the bow and sternpost. I had a change of mind about using the extra Pearwood strip I purchased for the wider strakes, the colour difference is too marked against the very pale and uniform kit planking. The resulting spiled planks would stand out too much and be a distraction if I am able to leave the hull unpainted. 1211(2) Any wider spiled planks including the Garboard will be cut from some of the ‘waste’ 0.8/1mm Pearwood fret which is too good to waste. Fitting the Garboard. My best guest is to use a slightly wider 5mm strip, broadening to 6mm at the sternpost. This was cut and shaped from fret Pearwood of a matching tone. At the bow it begins at b/h 1.1 and runs uniformly to b/h9 where it gradually broadens to 6mm at the sternpost. 1213 Once the curve at the stem has been formed the strake is wetted and clamped in position to form the subtle angles as it runs along the keel line. 1224 For the Garboard I used pva glue given the good clamping positions. 1244 1233(2) 1239(2) There are now nine strakes left to do. I will re-mark the plank lines, hopefully to best effect, and work both up from the garboard and down from the wale. The final spiled plank should appear at strake five up from the Garboard, tucked away beneath the hull. B.E. 16/11/21

One of the trickiest parts of a build, well done Richard. B.E.

Getting there Mark, 👍 B.E.

Your experience resonates with me bug, but even if you can’t quite maintain the accuracy strake by strake as the second layer is applied, those linings and tIck marks do provide a guide to follow. I find that even after one or two strakes the planks start to run out of sync with the tick marks along the hull. Even with what should be the simplest line marking at the central bulkhead with full width planks the match is invariably off after a few planks are applied. A combination of width variation in the kit planks, and inaccuracies in marking the ticks all contribute to the situation. I work on the basis of running the planks as best as I can down to the required number for the banding, and then re-assess what is required for the remainder. Once I complete the second banding I will remark the strakes and work up from the Garboard. Hopefully the final spiled plank won’t be too weird in shape and will lie below the round of the hull, as does yours. I think you have achieved a good result, and those stealers and spiled planks will be covered by the copper. B.E.

A case for Sphinx I don’t usually invest in a case for my models this early in a build but earlier this year when my regular case maker delivered the cover for the Royal Barge, he announced his retirement. He wasn’t making any more but he did have one ready made that would suit Sphinx as I intended to build her. Today he delivered that case as he was also doing a final delivery to the IPMS Scale model show at Telford. 1196(2) The model sits well in the case, leaving adequate room for a stub Bowsprit. 1198(2) The base already had a ‘tarmac’ finish, a reference to its previous purpose. I was prepared to remove or cover this but I quite like the look. 1205(2) Once I reach the detail stage it will be useful to have a cover to keep the dust off. This is the eighth case Paul of Just Bases has made for me, he will be missed in the Model making community. B.E. 13/11/21

I followed Greg Herbert's example in Volume 111 of the ffm. This is also a simplified version, lacking a chimney, and is very similar to the style you decided upon. Regards, B.E.

An excellent result Glenn, beautifully finished. B.E.

Nicely done bug, silver soldering really is a great asset to make those interesting little 'iron' pieces so difficult to find as completed items. Everyone should try it. 👍 B.E.

The dream team, Jim and Chris and two fine additions to the Vanguard collection. Great stuff. B.E.

Thank you Bob, Chuck is the man to follow. 👍 Post Thirty-six Planking - at last. Planking of the first band begins with the strakes fitted in two halves at differing points along the hull. The first strake is covered by the wale. 1125 The first strake fitted, you can see how the tapering follows the tick marks on the hull. I did decide to use ca for fixing . Thinking About a Drop plank This would sit immediately below the Wale, but with the post fitting of the wale pattern it would be tricky to acertain the right level with the risk that the wale would eventually part cover the drop plank set-up, and negate the effect. With two planks fitted there was a good match with the wale bottom at the bow, but an awkward narrow strip would be required further back to support the wale bottom. This would also throw out the planking run. I decided that it was a fiddle too far so, like the plank I dropped the idea.🙄 1133 Three strakes fitted, from this point on I will be below the wale lower edge. 1130 At the stern I wet the plank for a short distance where it curves sharply down to the lower counter. Clamps were used to hold the plank closely down until the glue set, altho’ this was fairly instant with the non runny thick ca I am using. 1138 Here you can see I suffered the issue of a ‘sprung’ plank. Not too problematic just needs cutting with a scalpel and re-gluing. Soft or sprung planks should be attended to they will come back to bite you later on. 1141 From the fourth strake down a degree of edge bending was required, and at this point tick marks at the front half were already showing signs of running off. The band tape was repositioned and Fresh tick marks were re-drawn. The strakes have been divided up into individual planks, not a formal arrangements but roughly in sync with scale lengths. So after four days work the first band of eight strakes is completed. 1179 At the fore end the plank run matches the band line. 1151 At the aft end which was unadjusted there is a slight divergence from the band line. I didn’t want a wider plank at the counter, so this is ok, and I will adjust the position when I re do the second band. 1171(2) The run of the planks to the stern counter. 1169 1149 1177(2) 1178 1167(2) Onto Band two and a repeat exercise. B.E. 11/11/21

Hi Steve, You're welcome to use any stuff from my logs that you find of interest, I do it all the time with others. Sharing ideas and methods to increase knowledge and build satisfaction is one of the cornerstones of MSW. Enjoy your build. B.E.

Nice looking work space bug, glad the surgery went well. B.E.

Nice work Derek, and a useful reminder re the application of wipe-on- poly. 👍 B.E.

Thank you Gregory, not entirely altruistic, I also do it as an aide memoir to prop up my own failing memory. ... and cheers guys for your continued interest and 'likes' Post Thirty-five Second planking – It's all about preparation. Tick strips have been applied to each bulkhead along the first belt, matching both sides of the hull. 1116 The eight plank divisions have been marked on the strips and transferred to the hull. 1109(2) These do provide a useful guide to see how the plank runs go, but inevitably (for me) there will have to be some tweaking as I go along. Errors in pencil line positions, slight variations in plank widths all conspire to throw things off. I start by sorting the planking strips; on first selection 18 strips were put aside by reason of colour and/or marks on the strip. This doesn’t mean all the strip is unusable and sections may come in later. The remaining strips are then checked for consistency of width and thickness. 1121(2) Of the remainder (32) strips were sub 4mm and (20) plus 4mm. I then looked at the thickness, I am more concerned with consistent thickness than width. The stated thickness of 0.8mm was met with all planks being between 0.01- 0.07 over size, mostly +0.05. This is fine, and sanding will take care of the minor differences. I am also looking at using scale planks. Sphinx Expansion Plan. The sharp eyed will see that a drop plank is shown directly below the wale, and that the six strakes below the wale are also formed top and butt. The other thing to note is that on this plan the bulwarks on the Quarterdeck and Foc’sle have been pierced for the addition of twelve pounder carronades fitted in 1794. Not sure my skill set will run to replicating the top and butt combined with a drop plank, or whether it is worth the effort for something that won’t be that obvious at 1:64 scale. I’ll think on it a while. 1110(2) I printed out an enlarged image of the expansion, each half on an A4 sheet. I need to refresh my memory of working out scale plank sizes, butt positions, and shifts on a hull, but this will be my guide. Time to fit the first plank, which will in practice be covered by the wale pattern. B.E. 08/11/21

Well worth finishing Mike, it is such a unique and attractive model. B.E.

That is so beautiful Chuck, you are a true artist. B.E.

Post Thirty-four Planking (Part two)- The real thing. From this point onwards it’s back to traditional planking using 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip. In addition to the provided planking strip I purchased various widths of 0.8mm planking strip to assist with spiling and varying width strakes as they run from bow to stern. Before I start, the hull has to be marked with the bulkheads and has to be lined off for the planking. On my hull there are 25 strakes of 4mm widths mid ships, with negligible variation on the two bulkheads forward of this. 1069 I decided to line off the hull into three bands; two of 8 strakes and the lowest one of nine strakes including the Garboard. I am using narrow 3mm Tamiya tape to separate the sections. 1073 I find this aspect quite difficult as it’s down to eye to adjudge the run of the line, and decide when it’s as good as it gets. 1071(2) 1105 1102 The width of the bands at the bow are the same for bands one and two altho’ the photos appear to show Band two at the bow to be narrower. 1103 1074 1084 1086(2) 1096 1088 1099 At the stern there is the greatest variation in band widths. Band one matches the mid ships,(33mm) Band two is narrower,(25mm) and band three down to the keel is the widest (43mm). So I stare at the model with Chuck’s words from his tutorial in my head. It won’t look right initially…tweak them at each bulkhead Slowly adjust the tape at each bulkhead until it looks good based on your contemporary model observations. Take your time with this. When one side is done, take measurements and replicate on the other side. To begin I will sort the planks for colour and sameness, and I will add the first strake which should take me down to the point where the lower edge of the Wale sits. Below this the planking will be on full view. B.E. 07/11/21

The Reaper does do trips but there are many reasons why they may not be operative at a given time, best to check. B.E.

Thank you Steve for your kind words, I'm glad you enjoyed the log. I'm sure you will enjoy the kit it's a great little build. I have a visit to Anstruther on my bucket list, maybe next year, a bit of a haul at around 350 miles, and I would want to make sure the Reaper was doing trips. Regards, B.E.

Hi bug and Bob, Silver soldering is well worth adding to your skill set, and at a basic level is quite easy to do. This is my set up, a burner, a pad to work on and tubes of ready to use silver solder. It is important to have different melt points if more than two pieces are to be soldered together. The tubes above have melt points of 671, 690, and 740 degrees. This photo shows two fine brass eyelets soldered to a brass tube to make a stanchion. The parts must be clean, and devices used to hold the parts together. In the case above one ring is soldered, and then the second with a lower melt point. A small amount of solder is put on the tube, the eyelet is held in position, the torch flame applied until the silver flashes, and job done. With fine material like this it takes a second. Hold it too close or for too long and the brass pieces melt. Getting inventive with ways to hold the pieces for soldering is a big part of the process, apart form a third hand tool and self closing tweezers, I use blu tack to keep pieces in position where required. One advantage with silver soldering is that once cleaned up it takes blackening very well. Hope this helps. B.E.

Post Thirty-three Completing Keel, Knee of the Head, and sternposts As is common with Vanguard kits, cover pieces of Pearwood or outer patterns as they are described are used to provide a pristine finish to these parts which are of themselves Pearwood. This is a great improvement on having mdf or ply versions which are difficult to match to the finishing timbers. I well remember the time I spent in getting the mdf Prow on Pegasus to match the Boxwood planking. 1059 The ‘Prow’ piece is also nicely engraved with the various sections that would otherwise make up the knee of the Head. Before I fitted these pieces I fined down the first layer planking a little in places to provide a slightly better rabbet for the second planking running into the bow. It really helps to have a rabbet to get a nice clean and tight look to the bow timbers, and also helps with the fitting. 1041 The most prominent feature is the Prow piece and it fitted spot on, I was careful not to get any glue stains on the surface. 1045 Following on from the Prow the keel and sternpost pieces slot into place without issue. 1042 Finally there is the lower counter upper pattern to fit followed by two further strakes of pre spiled planking. 1058 I used ca gel for these two planks, but I did keep a pot of acetone on hand in case of marks. I really dislike ca and will probably only use it to secure the first few inches of the planks at the bow. 1050 One slightly worrying thing, out of curiosity I tried fitting the rudder in place. It looks like it won’t fit without enlarging the rudder port in the lower counter. Probably down to something I’ve done, but it’s not a big issue to adjust. With these fitted, it’s onto the wonderful world of hull planking and all it entails. B.E. 04/11/21

This is an extract from my current build log about my first order from HobbyMill EU In preparation for hull planking I ordered a full range of Pearwood strip. 1023(2) Strip Pale Pearwood timber, the longer paler strips are the kit supplied Pearwood for comparison. Each size of timber comes in packs of 10, sufficient for most spiling requirements, and the range of plank widths will allow me more flexibility. The whole process of ordering was a pleasure, Vahur is very helpful, kept me fully informed by email, and provided full tracking details. I received the timber 15 days after order. The timber was well packed and presented in separate plastic sleeves for each size. It is of excellent quality and pale in colour as ordered. I did a random check of dimensions and the tolerences seemed to be in the range of +0.1/-0.1 in widths. Extra strips were included in each packet to allow for any discrepancies. In the 0.8mm x 1mm strips an extra 6 pieces were included with the 10 ordered. 1030(2) The lower strips are the kit provided strip, and the upper ones the Hobbymill. The kit strips are paler in colour, but the hobbymill versions a closer match to the planking patterns. 1027(2) The colour tone across the range is even. The longer paler strips in the photo are the kit provided strip. 1028 These are the 10mm and 0.9mm strips. In addition to the strip wood I ordered some square/rectangular stock. 1035(2) This will be used for constructional elements that may arise. Finally, Vahur included some samples of other available timbers, Yellow cedar, Hornbeam, Dark Pearwood, Boxwood, and Holly. All looking to be of excellent quality and cleanly cut. I am happy that we have at last got a European supplier of quality timbers, and on the strength of my first order I am happy to recommend. B.E.

I agree with you Chris, I don't like the Walnut look on models; I replaced all of the planking timber on my Pegasus build with Boxwood, and I toyed with doing that on Sphinx, but I think the Pear is nice enough. The deck will be Boxwood tho'. B.E.

Extra Timber supplies. In preparation for hull planking I ordered a full range of Pearwood strip from Hobbymill EU, based in Estonia, and a recent sponsor of MSW. 1023(2) Each size of timber comes in packs of 10, sufficient for most spiling requirements, and the range of plank widths will allow me more flexibility. The whole process of ordering was a pleasure, Vahur is very helpful, kept me fully informed by email, and provided full tracking details. I received the timber 15 days after order. The timber was well packed and presented in separate plastic sleeves for each size. It is of excellent quality and pale in colour as ordered. I did a random check of dimensions and the tolerences seemed to be in the range of +0.1/-0.1 in widths. Extra stips were included in each packet to allow for any discrepancies. In the 0.8mm x 1mm strips an extra 6 pieces were included with the 10 ordered. 1030(2) The lower strips are the kit provided strip, and the upper ones the Hobbymill. The kit strips are paler in colour, but the hobbymill versions a closer match to the planking patterns. 1027(2) The colour tone across the range is even. The longer paler strips in the photo are the kit provided strip. 1028 These are the 10mm and 0.9mm strips. In addition to the strip wood I ordered some square/rectangular stock. 1035(2) This will be used for constructional elements that may arise. Finally, Vahur included some samples of other available timbers, Yellow cedar, Hornbeam, Dark Pearwood, Boxwood, and Holly. All looking to be of excellent quality and cleanly cut. I am happy that we have at last got a European supplier of quality timbers, and on the strength of my first order I am happy to recommend. B.E.