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Blue Ensign

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Everything posted by Blue Ensign

  1. POST One Hundred and Sixteen Working along the waist Waist Gunwales These need to be considered in conjunction with the Gang boards that run between Quarterdeck and Foc’sle. On my build the gangway boards will be separately fitted to match the decking and follow the imprinted deck pattern. 6742(2) Fortunately the combined depth of the kit deck pattern plus gangway pattern is the same as the deck pattern plus individual planking. 6762 Before I start there are two large cleats to fit along bulwark, the aft one for the fore braces, and the forward one for the Main course tacks. Fortunately I won’t be troubled by the dubious pleasure of belaying these lines beneath the Gangboards and between the guns. Fitting these gangboards is a tricky business, I seem to say that a lot in my log, but that’s because it’s true at least in my case. 6745 *The Gangboards should slide beneath the qtr deck and Foc’sle Breast beams and butt against the outer bulwark. The Starboard side fitted better than the Port side, but both needed tweaking to reduce the inner bulwark height a tad so when the capping rail was put into place it slips over and cleanly down on the gangboards. *See footnote at end of post 6751 *On my build I found no reason to trim the gangboards on their outer edge as indicated in the blurb. *See footnote at end of post. 6755 There is a lot of ‘on and off’ the model dry fitting. This is not a process to rush. 6748 *Once happy with the dry fit work can continue. The best advice I can give is scrape the inner bulwark top until the gangboard outer edge sits flush with the outer bulwark, and the capping rail (gunwale) slips over the top into position without gaps. *See Footnote at end of post. The knees are position specific, so it’s a good idea not to mix them up during the necessary char cleaning and painting. 6763(2) I use double sided tape a lot to keep things in order. Fitting the knees is an interesting little exercise which involves marring the previously painted bulwarks to improve adhesion. The knees fit neatly into the slots pre cut in the deck clamps and a pot of water and a fine brush is handy to remove pva overspill. Not too onerous a job, knee 391 adjacent to the Qtr deck proved the most tricky. I found using bent nosed tweezers helped with alignment. With the knees in place the main worry is will they hold during the gangboard fitting. 6769 I found it necessary to tweak the tops of the knees a little to allow the gangboards to sit down, but the sanding process at least pressure tested the bond with the sides. (one came away) 6772 The gangboards glued into place, no easy way to go back at this point. 6776 6774 It is useful at this point to check how the step from the Qtr deck to the Gangway performs. In the kit the risers are represented by 2 x 3mm rectangular Pear strip(438) and 0.6mm treads (99) 6782 I’m feeling a little underwhelmed about the look of the step which to my eye lacks both style and practicality, I don’t think they will pass muster. I’ll terminate this section while I’ll ponder on how I can improve the look. I do have some ideas floating around my head. B.E. 05/05/22 *Footnote: I have had cause to revise my opinion about the fitting of the capping rail and Gangways. To keep the Capping rail level particularly if you are using the pre-etched planking pattern I think the Manual instructions 549- 553 should be followed. If the Capping rail is fitted over the Gangway boards as I originally did the camber will be followed and will throw the Hammock cranes out of vertical. Thanks to Ron (Hollowneck) for pointing out this issue. B.E. 07/05/22
  2. Great comparison shot with Sphinx, my younger self would have gone for Indy in a heartbeat, but where’s an old man to put such a beast in a house already full of ship models. I think you will have a winner on your hands Chris, I look forward to seeing her develop. B.E.
  3. I agree with your assessment James, the Pearwood I ordered for my Sphinx build is of excellent quality, the transaction as smooth as the timber, and HobbyMill is now my supplier of choice. It's good to have a European supplier of quality timber. B.E.
  4. Hello Ron, Rather than clutter up your log if you care to look at my Pegasus log (link below) and go to Page 6 Post #171 covering the Main stay, there are full details with photos of how I made the mouses. There are also details on my Cutter Alert log page 8 post #223 Hope this helps. Regards, B.E.
  5. She's looking impressive Ron, and those crowsfeet are a great improvement. I do agree with Druxey those mouses could use a little fettlin'. I make mine out of styrene tubing covered with netting from ladies tights which gives the woven look. Example from my Alert build. I will be interested to see your boat completed, I assume it is the Yawl you are including on the deck. Regards, B.E. ps. On second thoughts re-doing the mouses would involve re-rigging the the stays, but as Druxey says they would sit atop the shrouds in the usual fashion, but maybe an adjustment too far for you.
  6. Thank you Marc, I like to help where I can. B.E.
  7. Neat work, and nice joggling 👍 I tend to use a flat matt varnish for sealing the deck, but wop is only diluted varnish. Remember there are fittings to stick to the deck which are better fixed to a varnish free surface. Personally I don't apply wop to painted surfaces. B.E.
  8. I've just picked up on your log David, you have some great innovative ideas, and I like what you're doing with Diana. 👍 B.E.
  9. I see you have The Cutty Sark book by Longridge in which he notes. The Cro’jack sheets were made fast to the Qtr Bumpkin, and the Tack to an eyebolt on the rail. Does this not resolve the issue? B.E.
  10. Thank you Guys for your comments and 'likes' Post One Hundred and Fifteen Looking at the side steps. These are very fragile requiring a two part assembly from 0.6mm laser cut Pear. Awkward little beggars to hold, glue, and char clean. The scale width of the steps look good at 2’ 9” ( 13mm) but the depth of the treads looks a little shallow to my eye at 1.88mm (4½”) and the support I thought lacked substance. Having assembled and messed about with these annoying little pieces I decided to make my own. 6675 Using a sufficient length of Pear 2x2mm Square stock and a Micro shaper from Artesania Latina, a nicer looking profile can be produced (quickly), which are chopped into 13mm lengths, and finished with files (Slowly) Generally the scraper profiles are too large for work at 1:64 scale but there is a scotia profile at 2x2mm that suits the purpose. Whichever version you use, these things are tricky to fit. If only for aesthetic reasons they need to be evenly spaced, and parallel to each other as they rise up the side. There is not an overly defined tumblehome on the hull but there are some that require a slight bevel on the back of the step to throw the tread level. The top step position is defined by the decorative frieze which has a cut-out for it. The next step is positioned on the moulded rail, level with the top. This raises the question whether to apply atop the rail or cut the rail to facilitate the step. Chuck has recently discussed this subject and a visit to his Winnie log always pays dividends. Chuck decided to cut the rail to allow placement of the step on the hull. The problem with Sphinx, if the rail is to be cut, is that there is only 1mm of rail left each side of the step between the fender and port. I decided to place the step on the rail to judge how it looks but it does rather stand out and catches the eye. There is also a greater space between top and second than between second and the remaining six. 6712 In practice this means there is a 5mm space tread to tread between the top and second step, and four mm for the rest to keep them evenly spaced. If 5mm is used the bottom (8th) step would be placed a little too low down the wale. I did a quick round robin of the current builds of Sphinx and there’s an eclectic mix of step positioning, some followed the plan but omitted the bottom step, others placed the second step above the rail. Only James followed the plan in his prototype build. (as he would) For me the Adm plan shows eight steps so eight steps it will be. 6720 With the top step coloured and decorated the distance difference between the top and second steps is not too obvious. I begin the job by fixing the top two steps, then the bottom three ( on the Black Strake and wale) I then mark the gap between the second and sixth tread top, this gives the remaining three steps a tread to tread distance of 4mm, pretty much in alignment with the position marks on the hull. 6716 6718 From this angle the difference with the step atop the moulding is quite obvious. I suppose the step could have been thinned a little using the moulding as part of the step. 6715 I prefer the slightly beefier profile of the scratched steps. I decided to remove the moulding and place the second step directly on the hull and infill a small piece of moulding to the sides. This is the modified look. 6725 6726 6734 I much prefer the look with the moulding removed. Whole hull shots to give the overall perspective. 6733 6738 6737 This has been a lot of words for a small but time consuming element of the build, but each part is important and contributes to the whole. I think I will attend to the waist capping rails next. B.E. 01/05/2022
  11. Post One hundred and Fourteen Fore and aft along the hull This is a time of dealing with many small details yet to be completed or re-visited. Dressing the Head timbers. These are the covering boards that face up the head timbers. On kits it can be quite difficult the get these to look realistic with that nice concave shape to follow the head timbers. When I fitted the Lower rails, I had to do some filler work to reduce the oversize slots into which they fitted. 5543 I can understand why Chris allowed a generous measure of leeway to slot the Lower rails into place. I recognise the technical difficulty of creating slots that would closely follow the rise of the rail up the head timbers, given the vagaries of individual constructions. Even so I think the slots could be reduced a little in size from the upper ends of the head timbers. 6667 To maintain the curve, further filling is required post fitting. Looks horrible, but once sanded and repainted hopefully it will be worth the effort. A new set of mini sanding sticks were prepared. 6705(2) I think that looks better and no unsightly gaps. It took several goes to get a result that my non macro eye could accept. 6699(2) I spot a little paint overspill on the upper cheek rail, strange the stuff you see on photos that bypass normal vision, what did we do before macro photos. 6701 A small piece of moulding has been added to join the forward extension of the lower cheek to the foot of the figure which I think gives continuity and accords with contemporary models. 6678 6681 With the Headworks completed I think Chris’s design has achieved that elegant 18th look, the best I have encountered in the models I have made. Fettlin’ the Fenders In their raw state the side fenders and Chess trees are a little chunky. They benefit from a little further shaping, fining, and tapering towards the bottom, and a little rounding on their bottom ends. Where they cross the Blue topsides and black strake they are ideally painted to match. On the Topsides the frieze work should be continued around and across. 6694 The area is small enough to tempt me to paint the continuation of the Frieze work. 6692 6691(2) The w-o-p treatment hasn’t been applied at this point. 6668(2) Working my way aft I will next tackle the side steps. B.E. 28/04/22
  12. You’ve got it Ron, 👍 and 0.1mm line is about spot on for Crowsfeet, equates to 3/4” circ. line. B.E.
  13. It's been a few weeks, but wow what progress you have made Glenn, your planking is a joy to behold, and the whole model so pristine. Beautiful work.👏 ps I'm feeling inadequate. B.E.
  14. Beautiful work Thomas, an excellent demonstration of how to do it. B.E.
  15. I didn't use the lamination method myself as I managed to wing it with the solid, but I suspect the Cathead supporter on Diana is a little more beefy that that of Sphinx. Is the angle of Cathead on Diana based on a kit part? it doesn't look that steep on the AotS artwork and drawings., but you can always trial it with a piece of square stuff. The steeper the angle the further back along the Cathead the sheave slots will exit on the underside, in order to keep the run of the Catfalls vertical. Thank you David for your kind compliment, much appreciated. Regards, B.E.
  16. Your Crowsfeet look nice and taut Ron, but can you clarify if the method of reeving is one of your simplifications? I don't think I recognise the double looping of the line through the rim top holes, effective, but not necessarily authentic as far as I know. Regards, B.E.
  17. Cheers Guys, thank you very much. @ Glenn – I’ve picked up tips from many on MSW and the beauty of acrylics is that you can experiment a lot within a very short time. @ Chuck - your Winnie build is my constant reference for detail. I can’t replicate the top-notch standard of your work, but because of it Sphinx is much enhanced. @ Ron - I too will be adding the Billboard, bolster and lining, they appear on the Marshall painting. I intend to add stump lower masts and Bowsprit, but they won’t be glued into place. The gammoning will probably be the only rigging on the model. I am toying with the idea of leaving the masts as tall as the case cover will allow and maybe add the cheeks, front fish, and wooldings. I may also make up a full mast to include in the case as an example, but this all a long way ahead. @ Mark – I don’t know about gold standard, but I do hope my efforts are of some use to other builders. Regards, B.E.
  18. Post One hundred and Thirteen Adding the Figure. The provided resin Figure is nicely detailed, but not one of the most attractive figures evident on ships of the 18th c. For those interested in such minutiae it is likely that the figurehead was carved by Cuthbert Mattingly, Figurehead carver at Portsmouth Royal Dockyard 1760 – 1778 at which point he brought his son William into the business. Historical evidence may suggest that Figures were painted in colours, the unrestored model of Tartar of 1734 shows evidence of having been painted in colours, and there are other examples into the early 19thc. and beyond. I intend to leave the figure natural using only highlights and shadows to bring out the definition, it seems to suit the Navy Board style. This also accords with my natural inclination to avoid the garish. A base coat of Ochre Brown is applied, followed by a wash of Burnt Umber. Further highlighting (Yellow Ochre /Ivory mix) and shadowing(Dark Vermillion/ Burnt Umber mix) with a little darker wash for the crevices. 5957 I will be using Vallejo acrylics throughout. 6651 While I was trial fitting the Figure I noticed that the forward part of the Lower cheek seemed a little short. This looked unfinished to my eye. 6655 Generally where a full figure was involved the feet rested on or against the termination of the cheek moulding, as shown in the Marshall painting. 6646 I may be able to add a small piece of moulding to the rail. 6654 6652 6647 I quite like the look of the colour which varies given the light conditions but that is not to say that the urge to meddle won’t overcome me at some point. 6660(2) 6658 Still work left to do on the Headworks. B.E. 25/04/22
  19. Thank you David, It's worth a go but I would suggest you try laminating the supporter from three separate strips which will be easier to create the quite sharp curve required. I see there are some good drawings of the Diana Headworks in the AotS book. One advantage of lamination is that if three strips are used a profile can be created along the face of the supporter. The top of the supporter should be square with the underside of the Cathead which I didn't quite achieve, but given the size I just about got away with it. I await with interest to see the results of your endeavours. Regards, B.E.
  20. Thanks Ron, I just hope my blue colour mix lasts the distance. It should do there's not a lot of painting left to do. I felt I had to put the extra effort into the Rails as there will be nothing to distract the eye, no Catfalls with large hook, anchors, or rigging. Regards, B.E.
  21. Post One Hundred and Twelve. The Headworks. This, together with the stern have a deal of visual impact and need to look good. Some of this work has already been completed, the Head timbers, Upper and Lower Cheeks, and their associated Eking Rail and Hair Brackets. I had not yet fitted the grating pattern in place as indicated much earlier in the build, but this is now the next step. The Main Rail There is no denying, Main Rails are tricky, but Chris has produced a version that replicates the elegant curve up to the head and is the first model I have made where I haven’t had to replace this element. It is a three-section assembly which gives a combined thickness of 3mm at the head tapering to 1.8mm at the bow. 6617(2) As a simplification the False rail has been made part of the overall laser cut part, but ideally it should be a little thinner than the Main rail to which it would have been bolted. There is an outer section that beefs up the timberhead and stands proud of the rail. This creates the Stepdown which is a feature of the Main Rail. This benefits from a little light paring down to meet the lower level. Fitting the Rails The blurb gives a two-line instruction The rails can now be fitted to the bow as seen here and on plan. If only it were that simple! Yes, it can be, but the fit will be less than desirable. The forward tip of the rail fits nicely over the inner side of the Hair Bracket, but it seems to me that for the upper part of the Rail to sit correctly the back edge needs to be notched to fit over the Capping rails overhang and the Upper Hull rails. I start by holding the forward end in place and mark on the inner end where the upright crosses the hull rails. An angled notch is cut in the upright from aft. 6621 None of this will be seen with the Main rail in place. I also found it necessary to shape the grating pattern a little at the Fore end for a tension free fit. Ideally it would be useful to pin the Fore end to the Hair bracket but it so fine that the smallest pin I have tended to split it. I used pva to glue the rails in place knowing that should I need to remove them I could do it without damage. The following are the macro shots taken purely to give myself pain, otherwise known as highlighting areas for improvement.🙄 6628 6626 I decided to add a second pair of easement seats fitted between the False Rail and the bow. I suspect that these seats were far more popular than the exposed pair, but maybe that's just an assumption by a 21st c. man. 6625 6624 6622 6635 I have added the Saddle where the two rails meet at the bow between the Hair brackets. 6634 6632(2) Still work to do on the bow but overall, I’m satisfied the way the Main rails turned out. B.E. On this St George’s Day.
  22. Progressing well Glenn, One suggestion I would make is to paint diluted pva onto the footropes (Horses) and roll a paintbrush handle over them until they hang smoothly. Where stirrups are involved I also hang small weights off the end before trimming to keep them straight without curl. (I tend not to use brass etch stirrups) B.E.
  23. I’m sorry Chuck I don’t know the answer to your question, but it’s certainly available to those members of the Tffm club. B.E.
  24. Thank you Mike, The etched frieze designs on Sphinx are a tad finer than that used on Pegasus, but I followed the same procedure with Pegasus, and was very happy with that result as well. I followed the method described in 7.26 of Vo 11 of Tffm. On Sphinx I used Vallejo acrylics, but I think I used oils on Pegasus. You could always try hand painting on a frieze wide strip of suitable paper and see which you like best. It's always nice to do hand painted stuff but painting the brass to make it look like paintwork satisfied my artistic needs. Regards, B.E.
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