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Blue Ensign

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  1. Blue Ensign
    Post Seven A question of rudders I am not too keen on the rudder arrangement whereby a formed Pearwood carcase is faced by brass etch which albeit contains the details of the rudder straps. 9788(3) I replaced this with rudder cut from a 1.3mm Boxwood sheet offcut. 9800(2) The rudders of Cutters and other small boats had a different arrangement to the usual gudgeon and pintles set up. Rudder fitting on one of the Victory’s cutters. Note also the tiller fitting. The lower pintle was fitted to the sternpost, it was longer than usual for ease of location. The upper one was fitted to the rudder. This arrangement was to facilitate ease of removal and re hanging whilst the boat was in the water. 9795(2) On the model a small eyebolt with 0.35mm ø brass wire silver soldered into it made for the pintles, and eyebolts for the gudgeons. 9803 Rudder hung but not finished. Finishing the bottom boards. Having given the etch a base coat of Humbrol 93 I applied a thin streaky coat of Humbrol 94, followed by a dry bushing of sand yellow weathering powder. They were then glued into to the boat using spots of ca. The surface took a little wear during the fitting process and this will need fettlin’ once the rails are fitted. 9813 The internal rails that support the thwarts and provide some rigidity were made from 2mm x 0.7mm strip. These were pva’d to the ribs 3mm below the bulwark. 9817 I always find this a tricky little exercise getting the rails level each side, and I use temporary thwarts to eye along the boat. When it came to fitting the stern sheets the pre-made parts were not a good fit to my hull. 9828(2) In the end I decided that 1mm thick thwarts were a tad overscale and I replaced them with Boxwood strip of 0.7mm. 9826(2) I asked my Fifie Skipper to test the thwarts for height and level. The wash boards have yet to be fitted. B.E. 14/01/21
  2. Blue Ensign
    Liking what I see Tim. 👍 B.E.
  3. Blue Ensign
    You're making good progress Eric , this is not an easy build, but there is a deal of satisfaction to be had from its completion. The Pinnace kit makes a great looking model and I think you will be pleased with the end result. Regards, B.E.
  4. Blue Ensign
    Thank you, Eric. It can be a little disheartening for the less experienced to see nothing but perfectly planked and finished work so I think it is important to show that what hopefully turns out to be a nice looking model has its less than perfect stages along the way. I’ve always adhered to the adage that a model is more than the sum of its parts, and what we perceive as imperfections don’t necessarily detract from the overall effect. That doesn’t mean I don’t aspire to do better on my next build, and learn from those whose work I admire, and there’s more than a few of those on here - thank goodness.🙂 Regards, B.E.
  5. Blue Ensign
    Post Six Internal fittings The kit provides brass etched gratings and bottom boards which are beautifully reproduced and of a finer scale than I could possibly produce using timber strip. 9777 Having thoroughly cleaned the brass using soap, acid, and fine wire wool the parts were chemically blackened to provide some bite for the finish. 9778 The next job is to apply the internal ribs to the hull which run down from the gunwale to meet the bottom boards and gratings. My view is that there are too few ribs indicated in the kit so I fitted one against each of the frame bottoms and one in between. Using etched bottom boards raises the question of getting a realistic natural wood look. 9786 I laid down a base coat of Humbrol enamel (No93) 9783 A dry fit of the parts confirms an excellent fit, no filing or fiddling required here. As I arrive at this point I read that this little kit has been withdrawn from service, presumably ahead of something better in the offing to match the just released small boat kits. No matter we will carry on regardless, but that Yawl kit does look rather tasty. 😉 B.E. 11/01/21
  6. Blue Ensign
    Post Five A problem area arose at the transom relating to the fact that the Lapstrake planking refused to make a good fit to the kit part. 9753 This necessitated the kit part being removed and replaced by a Boxwood version. 9754 A fair bit of trial and error to get it to fit anywhere near right but got there in the end. The next job is to remove the internal frames, but I felt very chary about using the suggested twist approach. 9756 However, having cut the central bar and tentatively tested the twist I found that they came away without damage to the outer planking. 9766 Some tidying up inside, but the fittings will cover a lot of the internal planking. 9762 Starting to fine down the Lapstrakes towards the bow and stern, the strakes will be cleaned up using fine sandpaper. 9760 More fettlin’ required on the replaced transom and fining down of the Lapstrakes. B.E. 10/01/21
  7. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Erik, a great find, I hadn’t seen it. Some great detail shots of equipment and how it was used, and of the scale. The warp rollers along the rail slotted into sockets are something I pondered about, altho’ I did fit the sockets. I note the relative sizes of the Cran baskets and net floats to the crew. 👍 B.E.
  8. Blue Ensign
    Post Four The planking is completed, it’s Lapstrake Jim, but not as we know it. Pictured here in its rough finish once fettled I hope it will at least look the part from normal viewing distance. 9732(2) 9736 Before removal from the building board. 9746 The boat is released by inverting the base board in a vice and gently tapping the lugs. 9750 9751 Before I remove the frames, I will attend to getting the outer hull as ship shape as I can. B.E. 09/01/21
  9. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Guys for your supportive comments.👍 Postscript to the build Those familiar with my logs know that I use my build photo’s to produce a hard copy photo book recording the model build. I have now received my latest edition covering both Fifie and Zulu models. 9723(2) 9718(2) 9719(3) 9720(3) 9723(2) Once again I used Vistaprint to produce the book, and a superb job they have made. Regards, B.E. 08/01/21
  10. Blue Ensign
    Thank you dunnock, I’m pleased you found it of use, and best wishes for your new project HMS Diana, she is a fine frigate. A build log log is the way to go to gain information and assistance with your build. Regards, B.E.
  11. Blue Ensign
    Probably a wise decision, carvel is relatively straightforward, this is making it up as you go along.🙄 B.E.
  12. Blue Ensign
    Post three. I have continued to apply the planks, tapering and heat forming to shape the strakes. I decided for me that any thoughts of using a tick stripping method to gauge the run was not going to work given the small size, even the thickness of a pencil point would quickly throw it out. 9705 A degree of edge bend was required to fit the first planks against the Garboard. 9707 I use the provided 2mm Pearwood strip to mark the overlap, and applied a simple taper to bow and stern. 9711(2) 9708(2) Still no idea how it’s all going to end up, what d’ye think Gromit. 9714 RUFF Give it a chance Gromit, it should get better. 🤞 🤞 🙄 B.E. 06/01/21
  13. Blue Ensign
    I had better hope it goes well then Tim 😉 Post 2 A little fairing is required to the bulkhead frames, which with this method of construction are held firmly on the building board. This is small scale stuff; the boat is a mere 80mm long but at least the base board provides a reasonable purchase to work on the frames. I have also added a grip to the bottom of the building board to secure in the vice. 9692(2) My first action is to make some suitable sanding sticks to carry out the task. I am using P240 paper pva’d to strips of varying widths. 9653(2) 9690(2) Once fitted the bow fillers need further chamfering to meet the plank rabbet in the bow. Planking The kit provides 2x1mm Pearwood Strip for the purpose of carvel planking. It is a simplified form with some tapering and allowing the strakes to sit where they run and infilled with stealers. I have decided to Clinker plank her with 0.7mm thick Boxwood strip. This means that the planking will start from the keel and run upwards to the gunwale. Despite my aversion to the stuff I will use thick ca to apply the planks given the small width and length of the strakes, and the need for a rapid grab. I start with the Garboard plank using 3.4 x 0.7mm strip. 9688 Garboards are tricky and I have shaped it purely by eye, bringing the forward point terminating on the first bulkhead. 9695 The boat is dwarfed by the clamps. 9697(2) Garboard planks in place. From this point on I will use card templates to determine the run and overlap of the planks. B.E. 04/01/21
  14. Blue Ensign
    Very neat work Erik, all looking good. B.E.
  15. Blue Ensign
    Good advice from Chuck, all you need to visualise is that the Garboard Plank will run along the bottom of the frames and into the rabbet. One piece of advice I would offer to avoid all that agony is to glue some securing strips along the top of frames to hold them rigid before you start the fairing process. These things are quite delicate and will snap off in a heartbeat without it. B.E.
  16. Blue Ensign
    I've just had a look back at my Pinnace build and the centre bulkhead didn't extend below the top rabbet line Are the others ok? B.E.
  17. Blue Ensign
    I think you may have got me there Tim, 😃 I don't think anyone else has charted building one of these, so it may assist others , providing I make a success of it. ps it would look good trailing behind Alert. 👍 B.E.
  18. Blue Ensign
    My basic issue is your assertion that modellers got things wrong because they had no experience of sailing vessels similar to the ones they were modelling, which is a somewhat sweeping statement. In the case of the Longboat there were valid reasons why they modelled it that way, other than ignorance. On the wider subject of rigging it is true that certainly some mass produced kits have glaring errors that those new to rigging may not spot, but there is no magic shortcut to the knowledge so fervently desired by those new to ship modelling. I have a huge collection of books on the subject, built up over many years, no one book covers all subjects or vessel types, but most derive from the works of David Steel who remains my go to source for 18th/early 19th century methods. His works are online and noobies could do worse than have a read of them. Realistically the best approach is to target your reference sources to the vessel type you are modelling, but this does incur extra costs. There is one free source of valuable information - right here on MSW. Read thro' the logs of experienced builders doing the vessel type you are interested in, and learn the abc of the technical terms. B.E.
  19. Blue Ensign
    An 18ft cutter- a little filler between projects. One can always find a use for a ships boat and this 1:64 scale offering by Chris Watton of Vanguard models, fits the bill. As I’m in-between builds I thought this bijou kit would fill a few hours, and according to Mrs W stop me over fixating on the Bathroom conversion due to start next Monday. I am well served with ships boats in my shipyard. This 1:48 scale Model shipways offering of a Longboat. A fine little kit in my opinion, along with the Pinnace kit at 1:24. And this scratched 1:64 scale Boxwood version. 055 This was made for my Pegasus build using down sized plans from the Model shipways 1:48 scale Longboat kit. There are differences between Longboats and cutters, in terms of size and form, a major difference being that cutters were often Lapstraked rather than carvel built. I think Chris originally designed it as an accessory for his Speedy/Flirt kits, so I’ve included it in the 1751-1800 era section, but this style of boat would suit many eras. When I bought this kit I didn’t really have anything specific in mind but it could be used as a boat for Alert, or equally for a large fishing boat, depending how it is dressed. The mini kit comes with Pearwood planking, brass etched and Pearwood fittings. 9645 Not much to it is there, but that doesn’t mean it will be easy. 9639 The frames slot into a building board and over this the hull is planked. 9643(2) One of the bow planking patterns that require bevelling before fitting. These are tiny pieces to hold, I used a Tool maker’s clamp. 9650(2) If you don’t have one they are a worthwhile addition to your toolbox. So with the jig/frames set up I need to decide whether to go off piste and Lapstrake her in Boxwood, or use the nice little Pearwood strips provided, and follow the carvel route. B.E. 02/01/2021
  20. Blue Ensign
    I've seen some highly skilled modelers who are distinguished by their careful research nevertheless make glaring errors in a model, particularly in things like rigging, because they obviously have no experience sailing vessels similar to the one they are modeling.*) The glaring error referred to by Bob, is something that has been discussed a lot on MSW., primarily if I recall correctly on Chuck’s Medway Longboat build. To the modern eye certainly having the iron horse below the tiller looks distinctly odd, but we can’t get away from the fact that contemporary models and plans show it this way. Notably the Longboat on the Medway model in the NMM.(1742) There is also an 18thc draught of the masting and rigging of a 32’ Longboat showing the same arrangement. So, the modern model-maker has a decision to make, to ignore historical evidence on the basis that it must be wrong, or go with the best evidence we have. When I built the Model shipways Longboat, after much thought I also placed the horse below the tiller, but not in ignorance as suggested by Bob, but rather on the basis that people of the time had shown it that way. Of course naysayers will say it’s probably a modern restoration error, but in the case of the Longboat, there is also the contemporary draught. B.E.
  21. Blue Ensign
    That's not an oar Richard it is the bar for turning the windlass, the oars are around two thirds the length of the boat. 😉 As a hint to the quiz - look to the rudder area , but this is not as straightforward as it may seem.🤔 B.E.
  22. Blue Ensign
    Very nice work Bob, This is a very decorative model with painted topsides of Red, White, Blue, and Yellow ochre, together with black wales. I would paint the bottom to give balance, and as others have said it does emphasise the rich Pearwood colour of which a lot will still be in evidence. Regards, B.E.
  23. Blue Ensign
    It certainly confuses the issue, I did a double take when I first saw the post I thought blimey he's moved quick, he's reinstalled the hull and finished off the model.😀 It is bad manners tho' to invade another modellers log, I see James has tried to give a large hint, to which Dan seemed oblivious.🙄 B.E.
  24. Blue Ensign
    Nice work on the stove Tim, and your gun tackles look good. You mentioned earlier about the issue of dropping ladders down the hatch when fitting. Ladders are quite tricky to fit; I usually attach a line of cotton to the upper tread, so if they do fall they are more easily retrieved. Regards, B.E.
  25. Blue Ensign
    Looking great Rusty and there is a subtle difference in a 'hand' planked deck that I also prefer. I must admit that I was sorely tempted by this kit, it struck me that it would make a wonderful hull only Admiralty style model, I still may yet succumb😉 B.E.

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