Blue Ensign

Wow, so many supportive comments Guys , very much appreciated. Thank you all so much. B. E.

Post 52 Muirneag completed Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end. Firstly the detail shots. The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit. Fifie and Zulu Zulu and Fifie My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby. With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project. I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year. So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds. Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021 B.E. 28/12/2020

She looks great Doug, and I love the stand, thank you for the mention, glad my log was of use. Well done. 👍 B.E.

Cheers Guys, nearly there now. Post 51 Crewing the Boat I like to include a figure or two on a model purely for scale reference purposes. In the case of a Zulu the entire crew can be represented as it comprised no more than six including a boy. I prefer to display them as silhouette figures by either painting or chemically blackening depending on the medium. This also neatly avoids testing my very limited figure painting skills. 9494(2) For the crew I am using Modellu figures in S scale (1:64) and they are an excellent fit to the model and very finely detailed. 9501(2) Modellu don’t do specific Fishing boat crew figures, but their industrial, farming, and gardening figures provide reasonably suitable candidates. Deck accessories Edgar March gives useful details of these additions. Six oars 26’ long with a blade of 12’ x 5” They are more like sweeps than oars and were used to row the boat out of the harbour and very hard work it must have been. Sockets to take the thole pins were fitted between the stringer and rail. At scale these work out at: o/a length 124mm with a blade 57mm x 2mm. The oars at this scale are quite delicate. The shafts are made from 1.5mm Boxwood square stock and the blades from 2.4mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip. 9520(2) When I made a prototype to these dimensions, I was struck by the seemingly long length of the blade which looked out of proportion to the overall length, but as best as I can gauge from photo’s, Gordon Williams reproduced them to the same proportions. 9543(2) There was quite an attrition rate in making the oars, ten started to produce six. Two Push sticks or wands 36’ x 2¾” ø These were used like punt poles for manoeuvring and fending off. 9541(2) At scale: 171mm x 1mm ø One Boathook 14’ x 2” ø 9544(2) At scale; 67mm x 0.80mm Spar for squaring jib when running 36’ x 6” ø 9525(2) I’m not quite sure how this was used, but it does present another large impediment on the deck. At scale: 171mm x 2.5mm This is a lot of stuff to be lying on the deck; how was it positioned to not interfere with handling the boat or when fishing; how was it secured to stop it sliding about or going overboard in rough weather? It was all certainly there as many old b/w photo’s, including the one below testify, The crew must have been pretty nimble of foot to handle the boat in a lively sea whilst negotiating all this deck hamper. 9527 Zulu British Ensign leaving port. One of the crew members can be seen using the Wand at the stern and one of the oars is also in use. The large amount of clutter on the deck is clearly evident. Still these items do add to the interest on the model and give some idea of the conditions in which these boats were worked. The next post will see the model finished with the completion photo’s. B.E. 27/12/20

Thank you John and Martin. Post 50 Snaggings And Dressings As the build nears completion the eye finds lots of little areas needing attention such as marks on the paintwork, small items I forgot to complete, and general cleaning. Firstly, having got all the rigging lines in place the next task is to arrange the falls. 9508 I have deliberately not been too tidy in laying out the lines; having looked at many old photo’s of working boats of the era, Navy style is not to the forefront of Fishermen concerns, but most of those photo’s are taken in port during the unloading of the catch when a degree of working detritus may be expected. 9506 The skill in the handling of those enormous lugs by only three or four men is beyond question. 9511 I very much doubt that the line falls were left in such a state that increased the risk of fouling or tripping, there were hazards enough in working these boats in an unforgiving North Sea. Dressing the model. Time for some basket weaving – a matter of Crans. Crans are the official measure of a quantity of Herring Their size was regulated and standardized by government decree as a legal measure. The 1832 Act set the cran at 30 inches high, the diameter at its widest 21.9 inches and at the base 18.9 inches – at scale this represents: H = 12mm, diameter at top 9mm, diameter at base 7.5mm I made a set of three crans for my Fifie build and I hope to repeat the exercise here with a little improvement. 9471(2) Basket bases In practice the bases would have been woven in the traditional form. 9477 0.5mm brass wire form the rods, 0.1mm line the weave. 9480 The long uprights will form the handles. 9502 Four is about as much as my patience will stand. The piece on the right is a gauge for measuring the top circumference. 9513 The completed set. When it comes to the Silver Darlings this is how they translate to a 1:64 scale. In this image about three times the size of the actual. Am I going to carefully cut out a crans worth ? are you insane! This is my last post before Christmas, but I will continue working on the remaining fittings. Stay safe folks in these strange times. B.E. 23/12/2020

Nice work Rusty, and quick progress too. 👍 B. E.

A great result goemon, and a fine looking Alert. Well done 👍 B.E.

Very kind of you to say so Bob, but I think you flatter me, there are so many excellent logs on here that I use as reference points, and grateful for it.🙂 I've not actually sat and read the book from cover to cover, but I have made extensive reference to mainly the Scottish fishing section, having read it over and over. When I've finished Muirneag I will take time out and sit and read it as a relaxation, with glass of Merlot in hand.🍷 Have a good Christmas and stay safe. B.E.

Looks good to my eye Richard, and the Top and Butt is worth doing as even through the paint, the lines can be seen as they catch the light. They are also worth doing simply as a modelling exercise, there's a satisfaction to be had completing that curve at the stern of the final section. B.E.

Looks very smart Erik, especially against the black hull.👍 B.E.

On my build I used three blocks, a central double for the topsail yard braces (I didn’t fit a T’gallant stay otherwise it would be a treble block. Two single blocks either side of Bowsprit to take the Bowlines - they are covered in the AotS book. Hope this helps. B.E.

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated. Post 49 The Rigging Part Four Rigging the jib This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model. 9427(2) Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron. 9434(2) The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane. Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack. The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop. Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail. 9459 The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead. I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls 9461(2) At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer. The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles. 9448 The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached. 9449(2) The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat. The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side. The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels. 9443 Jib sheet to the Port side kevel. 9442 Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel. 9454 I love the lines of these fast sleek boats. 9440(2) 9446(2) All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task. B.E. 18/12/20

At 1:64 scale the mouse is very small and it is a good idea to see how it looks on the model with the stay collar against it. You have achieved the 'weave' look, and I think it will look good. B.E.

Hi Mark, it rather depends on the type and scale of your boat and whether it would be single or double banked. A little more information would be helpful. B.E.

Thank you Rusty, Bob, and Richard. @ Richard - I'm not too sure about the intricate workings of the capstan but I think there would be a pawl system on it. Sailing Drifters is a good read, so many snippets about life in a fishing community around the turn of the century, even down to the cost of a pint of ale! I have now bought the sister volume on Sailing Trawlers. Post 48 The rigging Part Three The Fore sheets also have an interesting configuration. Fore Sheets 1⅞” manilla - 0.20mm ø line used. The tackle consists of a 3mm Double block combined with a (lower) single block. (A deadblock according to the Underhill Plans). 9391 The top block is hooked to the clew, the lower block is attached by a chain necklace to the portside stringer with the running line passing thro’ a bullseye chained to the lower block, and the fall secured around a belay pin, and tied off at a cleat. 9396 9406 9393 Fore sheet from the starboard side. In the Fore ground is the ‘Tuckle chain securing the Mizen tack. 9404(2) Burton Pendents These were of 2” circ wire but I am using 0.3mm ø line. I start with the Mizen as this falls inside the other rigging. The Mizen pendent with a luff tackle (6” blocks) is secured in the deck adjacent to the mast partners (skegs) and the fall belayed to a cleat in the partners. 9400 The tackle comprises a 3mm double block and 3mm single hooked block. For the falls I have used 0.20mm ø line. 9403 Mizen Burton Pendent secured but not finally belayed. 9402(2) Fore-mast Burton Pendent. This has a different arrangement to the Mizen set up. The pendent is of wire (.30mm line in my case) Edgar March describes it as a runner and luff purchase, and there is mention of a sister hook, something new to me. Sister block I’ve heard of Sister Sledge, and Dr Hook, but that’s a different story. 9420 A 3mm single block is seized in the end of the pendent, a line runs thro’ this which also has a 3mm block attached to its upper end, and the running end is hooked to an iron bolt thro’ the stringer. 9421 A runner passes thro’ this block, one end is hooked to the bolt adjacent to the pendent line. This is where the sister hooks come into play but I can’t quite see how the two lines attach. At the scale involved I have used two separate hooks to secure these lines. 9417 The running end is secured to the stringer a short distance aft. 9423 Moving on to rigging the jib, the final element. B.E. 17/12/2020

Thank you Nils, good to hear from you, I hope you and yours are keeping well. Post 47 The rigging Part Two The Fore and Mizen sheets both have interesting features and a take a little bit of fiddling to set up. I start with the Mizen sheets which are slightly less fussy. The provided kit plan also includes this feature albeit in a more simplified form. Mizen sheets - (2) 6” double blocks (⅛” Syren) The sheet is of chain hooked to the clew and is shackled to the first block, the second block is hooked to an eyebolt in the starboard side wale at the stern. The tackle is of 0.20mm ø line and runs inboard thro’ an iron snatch block secured to the bulwark stringer with a chain necklace. The fall then runs to the capstan. 9369(2) Rigging block and chain combination. The chain is quite fine being 48 links to the inch. 9372 With the tackle in place the snatch block with its securing chain can be fitted. 9373(2) Forming the chain necklace. 4376(2) The fall for the purpose of the model is expended around the Capstan. 9385(2) The completed set up. 9386(2) 9387(2) Moving on to the Fore Sheets. B.E. 14/12/20

Thank you John, Grant and Glenn. @ Grant - Once I have formed the wire around the block I remove it to solder the bottom join, and hope it will stretch a little to allow re-fitting with a snug fit. The important thing is to make sure the cut joints meet so that the solder will form a strong bond. Regards, B.E.

Post 46 The rigging begins. This starts with raising the large Fore dipping Lug sail which involves rigging the Tye and Halyard. The given information is that the tyes were of wire; I did trial using 0.5mm braided wire but fore-saw problems with the attachment to the tackle block which requires to be done insitu on the model. 9338 Braided wire halyard It is fairly straightforward to silver solder an eye for the attachment of the tye hook, but that option disappears when it comes to the upper halyard block, that is if I wish to avoid setting the model on fire. So, Syren thread it is. For the Fore and Mizen yard Tyes I am using Syren 0.30mm ø line. Fore halyards 3” manilla - 0.45mm ø line. Mizen Halyards 2¼” manilla - 0.30mm ø line. The significant blocks on the otherwise simple rigging set-up are the Halyard tackles for the Fore and Mizen yards. Two 15” wire stropped triple blocks on the Fore and two 11” triple blocks on the Mizen make up the tackles. The lower blocks are hooked. For the makings I am using Syren Boxwood 1/4” and 3/16th” Blocks. The strops are made from 0.5mm ø brass wire and are formed around a block before the joint is silver soldered. 9264(2) The eye is firstly formed and a short section below soldered together; the ends are then formed around the block using mini pliers and the bottom ends trimmed to meet. 9281(2) I blacken the ‘iron’ with the block in place. I have determined from previous tests that this has no detrimental effect on the blocks and eliminates the risk of marking the block or blackening during the fitting process. 9344 Fitting the upper halyard block. 9355 9361 Fore Halyard tackle completed. 9360 Mizen Halyard tackle. 9357 The rigging will continue in the next post. B.E. 13/12/20

Nice tackle work Tim. 👍 B.E.

I looked at a lot of model photo’s and of the real thing John, and regardless of the regulation the position I chose reflects what appears to be the general arrangement. I only came across one old photo where the registration number looked a fair bit lower. I think it looks ok tho’ B.E.

Post 45 Registration numbers on sails I have been pondering for a while the why and how to apply the Registration number to the sails. The why is easy, it is required under the Sea Fisheries Acts 1843, 1868, and 1883. The requirement is also mirrored in the Merchant Shipping Act of 1894. The requirement is that on ‘Barked’ sails such as carried by Muirneag white lettering is to be used of a size 30% greater than that of the Registration numbers on the Bow. In scale terms that is around 7mm in height. I have gathered quite a collection of dry rub lettering over the years, by Letraset, Conte, and W.H Smith, in various sizes, but not 7mm and not in white. It is always the way, dozens of screw sizes on hand except the one required for the job in hand. I have trialled Letraset dry rub lettering on fine cotton material and I think it should give a reasonable effect. It will also take a degree of abuse before it starts to flake off, but best not to test it. 9314 I picked up from Erik’s (EKE) log that he used Woodland Scenics dry rub lettering and I managed to obtain some from a UK supplier. The position of the numbers on the sails is something else that may be open to interpretation, as I notice there are differences evidenced by photo’s old and new, and models and drawings. Here’s the Law: SEA FISHERIES ACT, 1883. ARTICLE VI. The same letter or letter and numbers shall also be painted on each side of the mainsail of the boat, immediately above the close reef, in black oil colour on white or tanned sails, and in white oil colour on black sails. Such letter (or letters) and number on the sails shall be one third larger in every way than those on the bows of the boat. The letter or letters and numbers on the sails shall be one-third larger in every way than those painted on the bows of the boats. By a subsequent Declaration of 1st February,1889, the paragraph was replaced by the following provision: – The same letters and numbers shall also be painted in oil colour on each side of the mainsail of the boat, immediately above the close reef, and in such a manner so as to be plainly visible; they shall be painted, on white sails in black, on black sails in white, and on sails of an intermediate shade in black or in white as the superior competent authority shall deem the more effective. …. and you think we are bedevilled by regulations in our modern times! In terms of positioning there are examples of horizontal to the reefs, and degrees of downward slope. The most pleasing position to my eye is around the half way point between peak and clew which in terms of Muirneag is 145mm. down from the peak. 9321(2) I opted for the angled approach where the numbers followed the line of the sail panel seams. A steel ruler is used to guide the application. I was somewhat edgy about doing this for fear of spoiling the sail, and the application proved more than a little tricky. The letter ‘S’ ‘Y’ and the number ‘4’ proved particularly stubborn to release cleanly and each took several goes to apply and then not entirely satisfactorily. 9335 No matter how I secured them and burnished them bits did not take. 9332 In the end I accepted the situation and had to resort to painting over the deficiencies. This didn’t work out too badly with the shapes mostly there to follow, but it was a one shot exercise as any paint overspill would not be easy to remove. 9333(2) 9336(2) A little more touching-in once the paint on both sides is set, and then I can raise the sails and begin the rigging. B.E. 12/12/20

There's a lot going on on the OBP OC, to great effect. 👍 B.E.

You're doing a fine job on an interesting subject Yves, I really like the look of her. B.E.

She looks great Richard, beautiful display model in her home country. Well done. B.E.

The Ensign halyard usually passed thro’ a small block attached to an eye in the end of the Gaff. I would think that with the Gaff lowered and secured to the boom the halyard which was essentially a loop with a toggle attached to the flag when required may well have been removed and neatly coiled somewhere conveniently at the stern. B.E.