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jwvolz

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  1. jwvolz
    Made a little detour and built the ship's boat. This is a (separate) Caldercraft kit that I picked up from Cornwall Model Boats. Nice little kit. I modified it by making a cap rail out of some spare maple, adding thole pins when complete. I made the thwarts and stern sheets from boxwood, to replace the kit supplied walnut. The Photo-etched oars and boat hook are included and just require painting. I also added a freshwater cask, and scratch built the rudder/tiller. I also made what is likely the smallest piece I've ever done: a bailing scoop carved from boxwood, that is ridiculously tiny. You can just see it sitting on the bottom.
  2. jwvolz
    I think I'll be about an hour or so from you Bob. We are visiting my wife's parents in Stuart. My goal is to golf as much as humanly possible and just be outdoors enjoying the (relative) warmth.
  3. jwvolz
    Hitting the home stretch Bob. I'm headed in your general direction Tuesday-Sunday. Make sure that Florida warmth is present!
  4. jwvolz
    Looking good Bob.
  5. jwvolz
    The 4mm x .6mm should be fine. Assuming you are going on over the lime first planking, that should come pretty close to the thickness of the walnut. I used 4mm width, can't recall thickness, but it was close to the walnut.
  6. jwvolz
    You can get the beeswax from Model Expo, though the stuff from Michael's is likely fine.
  7. jwvolz
    I voted for the Lion. It would be nice to have a Syren kit of such a different subject. Very unique.
  8. jwvolz
    Run the rope over some beeswax. That will help relax it, and reduce some of the fuzziness as well.
  9. jwvolz
    Thanks. Any questions along the way, don't hesitate to ask. It's the sharing of knowledge that makes MSW so great!
  10. jwvolz
    Ah, Caldercraft kit, OK good Bob. You'll enjoy it, it's well done. Good move on the gun carriages, I wish the Syren ones had been around when I built my Granado. The one big knock I had was how bad the outer walnut planking was. It was very splintery and I'm glad I substituted boxwood above the waterline.
  11. jwvolz
    You are much better off trying to get some proper hobby paints, rather than "craft" paints. They are weak in pigment, and it is also larger in particle size so they just don't lay out smoothly. As you found, they are also thick, and when you have to thin them to brush or airbrush consistency they get weaker still and don't cover well. I'd recommend Tamiya, Vallejo and Model Master acrylics. All much better options.
  12. jwvolz
    Which acrylic paints are you using?
  13. jwvolz
    Nice start. I'll be interested following along to see how it differs from the Caldercraft kit, which I thought was very nice.
  14. jwvolz
    Nicely done. Congratulations on a fine build Dave.
  15. jwvolz
    Yes, #1... :-)
  16. jwvolz
    Thanks guys. Mike: The coamings are walnut with Minwax natural stain.
  17. jwvolz
    Jason, Great idea leaving a lip for their capping strip on the channel so it all flows smoothly once that is in place, particularly with the rounded edges. Subtle but, makes a difference.
  18. jwvolz
    Congrats on the build, she came out terrific. I really like all the attention to fine detail you manage.
  19. jwvolz
    Excellent work on that planking.
  20. jwvolz
    Just enjoyed reading through your log Dave, and really enjoyed it. Great work. You may have me inspired to build Bluenose for my next project.
  21. jwvolz
    Thanks guys. OC: The color is Poly Scale TTX Yellow from their railroad line with a little bit of white added. The Poly Scale paints have been gone for a few years, but I still have a bit of a stash. They were among the nicest acrylic model paints ever, particularly for hand brushing.
  22. jwvolz
    Nice work on the windlass Bob, those octagons can be tricky. Looking forward to the masting.
  23. jwvolz
    Time for a long overdue update. I didn't get a lot done on the model over the summer, but have been busy of late. All of the aftermarket Caldercraft carronades have been assembled painted and installed on their sleds. I substituted small pieces of round styrene rod for the rollers, rather than a simple square of walnut as Caldercraft suggests. I also added breech rings from brass wire. Rather than blacken they were airbrushed with an off-black color, and then brushed with powdered pencil lead to give it a subtle metal look that I think came out rather nice. Breech ropes were then rigged and carronades installed. The two six-pounder chase guns (not sure of the source, they were in my spares collection) were installed on Syren carriages and rigged with 2mm Syren blocks. I've also completed the chainplates, which took a little effort. Caldercraft supplies the lower link and toe link as a photo-etch pieces but the middle link is open and just slips on. I had an issue with that not looking realistic, and with the angle of the chainplates they really needed to be of varying lengths, which they were not. I therefore bent some brass wire around varying sized jigs as appropriate for the angle of the chains and soldered the middle link closed. This to me looks much better. I have a Syren order inbound with hooks, so I can complete rigging of the carronades.
  24. jwvolz
    Great milestone. She's looking good Tom.
  25. jwvolz
    Looking spectacular Bruce. Love this build.

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