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jwvolz

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  1. Well I've been working on the Cruizer from Caldercraft for a while now as you can see from the photos attached. I've had some personal computer issues that have prevented me from starting the log until now. I plan to make some modifications and changes to the kit to try to make it more accurate. Some of the planned changes: Copper plate bottom Replace supplied long guns with carronades Change some wood including maple for deck, and various other boxwood pieces, more for work-ability than show as most things will be painted. Revise deck fitting/structure plan and head structure Come to some type of conclusion on raised fore and aft platforms as were seen on many of the class Change the name-there are lots to choose from in this class! Replace line and blocks with Syren products There is a fair amount of information, and a great thread here on MSW about the class: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1036-cruizer-class-brig-sloops-of-the-royal-navy/ It has been a bit of a challenge determining some of the things I want to do with regard to the above changes, mostly due to lack of documentation, so that will make the journey interesting. I'll have to make a name decision shortly, as it may have bearing on some of the modifications I wish to make. So...without further ado this is where things stand currently. She is planked all around and bulwarks have been primed. You may be able to notice that there is a wide variety of wood on the hull. As usual, the Caldercarft walnut outer planking was very splintery. I thought it would be fine, as it would all be painted, but that was not the case. I actually used the kit Tanganyika deck planks below the wale, which worked quite well surprisingly. Way down towards the keel I had to use some 3mm wide walnut as i didn't have enough of the Tanganyika. Again no biggie, it will all be under paint and copper. I used the same 3mm wide walnut above the wales. I can't remember where it came from, but it's actually good quality. The transom and wales were done in boxwood, as was the stern trim.
  2. Sounds correct. There were racks for the harpoons and such and I'm sure they were stored there to prevent loss in rough seas. One whaleboat mounted on the base next to the ship, fully equipped, would look nice.
  3. Looking really nice Bruce. I'm sure you'll work through those whaleboat stations. Looking forward to your take on the whaleboats themselves.
  4. The PE fret has "imitation" scuppers on it. They are circles with no opening, but they'll probably suffice for the interior if painted dark gray/black. I used mine on the hull exterior. I didn't want to try to drill through and hope it lined up right. You can see it in this photo, to the left of the gun port, just above the wale.
  5. Looking good Bob. I like the idea of the three part sheer molding. Clever...
  6. Oh wow, that could have been a disaster. Glad it worked out OK...
  7. Fantastic Wayne. Are you doing anything below the waterline to simulate copper?
  8. Nice work Bob. I recall that interior bulwark piece being a real pain. Can't quite tell from the photos, but if you haven't done so it's a good idea to blank off the center of the hull at the two air ports so you can't eventually see all the way through the hull.
  9. Glad the log is helpful Bob. That's what's great about this site. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions.
  10. Bob, GREAT choice for your build. I really enjoyed this kit, and as you mentioned there is so much you can do in the way of modifications. I'll be looking forward to your interpretation.
  11. Thanks Mike. I've been to Mystic a few times Mike. It's been about six years since my last visit, but I do get up that way on business travel a fair amount so I'll likely try to get their this Spring/Summer. I'll let you know if anything comes up that I need a photo. Now I patiently wait again for Expo to even return my e-mail about the replacement, replacement parts.
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