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jwvolz

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Everything posted by jwvolz

  1. Looking great. Things get "busy" enough on deck that it will be hard to notice the narrow centerline plank.
  2. Erik, Shorten the garboard back a bit, and change the shape at the bow to better follow the current run of the planks. You should be able to fit all of the strakes in that way. Good progress.
  3. Good progress. White is a tough color. Liquitex flow aid which is available at Art stores is a good additive to help slow drying a bit with acrylics and help them level. I fortunately have an airbrush and that is how I painted my lower hull.
  4. The adhesive is very strong. I have a build that is over 20 years old and there is no sign of any peeling. It is still best though to put a matte or dull coat over the plates to avoid fingerprinting. I use Testor's Dullcote.
  5. Thanks Bob, Jason and the "likes". Jason: Shouldn't that wheel be OK with your build being 1/64th? Maybe your plans show otherwise. It's a great little addition.
  6. Let me preface this update with a statement: I have been the worst at updating and taking photos as I go along on this build... So I've gotten a lot done, but have not been documenting well. The deck furniture was all completed along the way and has now been installed. The carronades are now rigged to completion as well. I have even gotten the lower masts and bowsprit built and installed. Again, I've been terrible with the updates... I really like how the binnacle came out. I found a compass rose online, shrunk it down and printed it out. The rest of it is built from boxwood sheet and strip. I also built the companionway from boxwood. As I had mentioned earlier, the deck layout is from the Gannet plans, and thus it varies from what the kit shows.
  7. That is so much nicer than the kit boat, nice work so far on it Doug. I tossed the kit boat right away when I built PdN.
  8. Looking good. Don't be too concerned about the gunport strip. The second planking and inner bulwark planking will generally straigten it out fairly well.
  9. My method is similar to Frankie's. I leave about an inch past the end of each spar to secure into the drill. I then clamp my drill in the bench vise leaving my hands free. I try to pre-taper most of the reduction in diameter in advance with knives amd rough files, and I can easily get down to topgallant yards without issue.
  10. Great choice Bob, she's a beautiful ship. Anxious to see what you do with her. It's been a few years since I built mine, and there are certainly things I would do differently now, so I'll enjoy seeing how you approach this. Good luck!
  11. Good to know Floyd. I'll certainly use those rather than the expensive brass ones next time I need some.
  12. Can you post a picture from the plans? Do you know the weight of the carronade? Caldercraft makes brass carronades in nearly every major caliber.
  13. Carronades look fantastic Floyd. Those would have saved me a ton of money when I replaced the ones in my Cruizer kit vs. the brass ones from Caldercreaft.
  14. Made a little detour and built the ship's boat. This is a (separate) Caldercraft kit that I picked up from Cornwall Model Boats. Nice little kit. I modified it by making a cap rail out of some spare maple, adding thole pins when complete. I made the thwarts and stern sheets from boxwood, to replace the kit supplied walnut. The Photo-etched oars and boat hook are included and just require painting. I also added a freshwater cask, and scratch built the rudder/tiller. I also made what is likely the smallest piece I've ever done: a bailing scoop carved from boxwood, that is ridiculously tiny. You can just see it sitting on the bottom.
  15. I think I'll be about an hour or so from you Bob. We are visiting my wife's parents in Stuart. My goal is to golf as much as humanly possible and just be outdoors enjoying the (relative) warmth.
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