FrankWouts
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Everything posted by FrankWouts
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Bob, The result of your build is simply beautiful, despite your "small tremor in one and arthritis in the other", you show great talent and perseverance and to me that's what I admire most. I'm not looking for small deviations or some corrected errors in a model, but simply admire them as a whole and in the details and enjoy them. And yours is certainly an example to admire and enjoy looking to for hours. I simply hope to get as far as you with the same quality and beauty some day. Then I've proven to myself that I can do this: you've already more than proven that to me! Frank. -
Thanks Chuck, Mike, Jorge and Kurt! And the likes which are always a big stimulus for me! @Jorge Diaz O I use vermillion red Humbrol 60 , as the Red Ochre color from Admiralty is too harsh to my eyes, too much towards redbrown/purplegrey/blue. I have it and I tested it and, though perfect paints they are, I personally don’t like this red ochre. Maybe this is because in my life I have seen too many window shutters and church doors in vermillion red on our antique houses and churches in Europe from the 17th and 18th century. The vermillion will shine through nicely after I’ll wash it later on with strongly dilluted darker redbrown oil paint like burnt sienna. You’ll have much nicer and warmer antique appearance afterwards. But I’m not sure if I’ll go ahead with this, as the vermillion as it is now looks beautiful to me. My photos and lighting aren’t what it should be, I’m not a photographer at all. The vermillion red looks more orangish, brownish than in the pictures. Also scaled down to 1:48 colors, should always be lighter and with little more grey tones in them than in real life. So an exact copy of the real color is wrong anyway in scale. Too dark and without the distance (waterdamp, dust in the air) grey tone effect in them.
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Shure that makes sense Mike, got it! Thanks!
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Thanks Scrubby!
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Hi all, just a small update to let you all know I’m still working on my Winnie… I made a correction on the width of the upper layer of wale planks, replaced the upper row as I forgot to measure the exact thickness of the 7/32 AYC wale plank bars . Ofcourse they’re a little thicker than 7/32, as we get value for money from Chuck. So I ordered the Byrnes thickness sander as well. The total 5 wale planks are now exactly 35/32, and the wale curve that was determined by the batten is still preserved. My planks will be the exact thickness as indicated on the plans from now on: this won’t happen to me again! Cheers, Frank
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Very neat planking Glenn, your're catching up with me!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Beautifully weathered cannons and just the right quoin handle to my eye! Wow Matt!
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Welcome and you have my greatest respect cutting your own bulkheads Steve! I'll be following with great interest. Frank.
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40 lpi chain: https://www.hobbylinc.com/a-line-brass-chain1240-links-per-inch-ho-scale-model-railroad-accessory-29216
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- cutty sark
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I see the same, smallest 30lpi. However, when I google "cast your anchor model chain 42 lpi", I find this link: http://castyouranchorhobby.com/Item/MS0516 But,when clicking it, the Cast Your Anchor site says: 404 - Not found. So it was there, but unfortunately not anymore?
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She's coming out more and more beautiful every time Bob! And almost finished! You've got plenty of time left to join on the Speedwell banana's after this one! Frank.
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If that could be printed in wood, I'd like to order some with you!
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I love your copper plating and your scratch build windows! Very brave! But the white pillar in between the windows of the quarter gallery could be straighter I think: can you still correct and improve on that? I dare say this, despite your big guns on the wall! Are those real guns? But further your model comes out gorgious Jorge! Frank.
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Welcome Leo, and you have my greatest respect and admiration sawing those bulkheads yourself!
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Hi Tom, Great that you fixed those broken frames. How did you do that? What am I seeing in those last pictures with the stern framing? Can you explain what you are doing there? I don't see any windows from the inside?? Or is this bent piece of multiplex only a placeholder and not glued on?
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Welcome Kurt, You bring a lot of good wood working experience to this group and I like your style of writing. It will be great reading your log and following your build! Frank.
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Hi Hans, Simply very, very beautiful work on 'the ship' of us Dutchies. I hope the negative feeling about that person's negative comments disappears when I tell you it really takes my breath away to see your beautiful build and that I'm getting anxious to start my own with Blom's drawings after HMS Winchelsea. Only thing is Chuck plans a POF project also after the Winchelsea project. So there will have to be made some choices... Frank.
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Beautiful work and great progress! don't understand how you can move so fast...
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Great progress and looking very smart Ben! Frank.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You're welcome Glenn, that's what's this group build is for, to keep each other on the right track. Luckily no redo needed, like I had to do with my lower counter planking, which was quite exciting when I chiseled away the lower three counter planks in small splinters...
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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If that’s enough to make and sand the bow planks flush with the skewed bollard timbers, I guess you’ll be allright. Mine are skewed just a little more as maybe I oversanded the bow filler pieces a little. No real rights or wrongs I think, as long as you are satisifed with your work yourself!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Hi Glenn, very nicely done, but shouldn't the bollards be formed in an angle, following the curve of the bow? See the plans what I mean. Also I think the bowsprit hole should be filed and sanded in an angle, given by the angled piece of wood that sits right in front of it, and Chucks instructions ofcourse. This way your bowsprit probably will not kill your mandolin player sitting on the bow later on? Mine is not perfectly round yet, because I’m thinking of maybe fully rig the model and I want to be sure the diameter is not too big at forehand.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Very beautifully done and that in such a fast pace!
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Clear, thanks Mike!
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Thanks Jim, I may do it that way. But this is only the first layer, according to Chuck's description I believe I first have to plank above the wales and then add the second planking of the wales and paint it? I'll read it again anyway...
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