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Everything posted by FrankWouts
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Hi all, Is there finally any news on a release date? Frank.
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Hi Gary, Yes, at least for me they worked out, as I could not imagine exactly how the curving should diminish from being round at the top of the bow to sharp and almost hollow at the bottom. I've tested this gradual transition from top to bottom with some leftover scrap planks and I should be okay and have a nice gradual flawless transition when planking further down to the bottom. Very experienced builders could perhaps make this transition when planking, but I though I could not do that and perhaps have ugly bumps in my bow. I'm not experienced.... I build a Corel victory 30 years ago and never was able to finishd it (though I still have it). With all the flaws and not having all parts from the kit anymore I don't feel like it as well...I'll start a new one some day in the future, perhaps the coming 1:64 Amati one... Frank.
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- winchelsea
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Hi Joe, When you inspect my build log on the transom you'll find I had to do some acrobacy with clamps and long strips to keep the right position on the middle two transom frames to get it right and get that gentle curve in the transom... It came out fine in the end, so if I can do it as a beginner, I'm sure you'll do a very fine job. Frank.
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That's some very nice fairing and refined steady hard work! Frank.
- 389 replies
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- winchelsea
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That's some gorgeous looking deck, cabin and rudder! Frank.
- 399 replies
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Welcome and a great start! Frank
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Beautiful progress Glenn! Keep going like this! Frank.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
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Beautiful work Glenn, you're a plank master indeed!
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- winchelsea
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Hi Tom, No, you cannot saw one entire wale plank from bow to stern from the AYC blocks Chuck provides, that is, if you got them from him. Also, it would not be realistic, as trees in 1:48 cannot be that tall and therefore planks cannot be that long. I made the first curved wale plank from bow to stern in three, four pieces, glued next to each other in one fluent line (to my carpenter's eye at least...). If you look at pictures of others in this group build, you can see where to make the (vertical, upright, parallel with the frames) cuts in the planks. These cut positions repeat every fourth plank. Make sure you bend and place your first row of separate wale planks along or on the bulkhead marks exactly and with a gently curve, no sinkers or ugly nods, but fluently in a gentle and elegant curve. The sea, waves and ships are all about curves with a certain 'tension' in these curves. An ugly nod in a curve takes away theat gentle tension. Rip the first curve of planks off and start again if you're not 100% content with what you see looking from bow to stern and vice versa with one eye closed... Also, make sure you do it exactly the same port- and starboardside, as far as possible and to your abilities ofcourse. f you place the underside of the first planking in the middle of you pencil line, do that the same on the other side. This is the basis for every curve that will follow, so....
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Beautiful and steady work Glenn!
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- winchelsea
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Beautiful work Steve! Please keep your updates coming! Frank.
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Aha, now I see indeed, at first it looked 'paintish', but not quite.... When rounding the bulkheads more to the bow, it looks that you oversanded the upper part, but only just a bit to my eye, the upper part where later the (upper two planks) planking on it should almost hang over a little for the anchor davids? I tried to draw in your picture what I mean. But perhaps this could be an optical illusion in the photograph. I had it a lot with some left over char here and there that simulated shadows that aren't there at all. Also, I'm not sure if I'm looking at your 'Winnie 1'or 'Winnie 2'? Bit confusing, for me at least. Perhaps check with the bow cap template if you also have the form correct. It should prevent lots of headaches later on. If not quite the shape, now you can still correct it by adding a little strip or some filler and sand back to the correct shape .
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