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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    That's what duct tape is for. 😁 Makes sense. why did that practice stop?
  2. Chuck Seiler
    That is how I read it as well. It seems to be more difficult than it needs to be, but I guess they did it that way for a reason.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    Excellent, thanks. If I am not mistaken, the Almere wreck is early 15th century; slightly later than my cog, but in the same ballpark. The stropping appears to start off exterior to the block on the bottom side, then transitions to internal about 2/3 of the way up, then out though the top. Am I seeing that correctly?
  4. Chuck Seiler
    I agree. Even the simplest planking can lead to problems if the is still "spring" in the plank and needs to be clamped down.
  5. Chuck Seiler
    IIRC spiling is not a big problem with PHILADELPHIA. The structure and form of the hull is such that very little tapering is required. Much of this is due to the nature of the ship itself. A bunch of these were slapped together over a couple months in the middle of nowhere. They had plenty of wood due the a captured mill, but shipwrights were pretty scarce. They had plenty of plain old carpenters and folks who built lake bateauxs.
  6. Chuck Seiler
    Good luck. I will continue to watch.
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that. I was thinking the kit supplied blocks didn't look quite right. Perhaps it is because I am so used to seeing 18th century blocks. I guess I need to look at some of Louie da Fly's olde tyme cog paintings and re-evaluate.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    I assume you mean IPA=rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) versus the beer.
  9. Chuck Seiler
    Clare, They came with the same built-up/laminated blocks as the card version except wood. I am swapping out with SYREN blocks.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    Looking good! I had/am having similar issues with using card stock that you noted in your opening post. I will experiment with soaking the parts in varnish. I am not familiar with nitro based varnish.
  11. Chuck Seiler
    Blame the cat.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    Cog has been stained. Nothing exciting...same as before except a little darker. While I was waiting for glue and stain to dry over the last week, I started working on the stern castle. The first part consists of a base, 3 complete sides and 1 partial side. The base has a bunch of under-deck structure designed to make it stronger. Unfortunately after everything was in place the base structure started to warp. I tried to straighten it out by misting it and placing a heavy object on it. Once dry, it was straight, but a half hour later was warped again. I was hoping the addition of the sides, which also have strengthening internal supports, would solve the problem. It did, but only slightly. I clamped a solid piece of wood to the inside of the structure to keep it stable while building. Exterior of the structure before improvements are added. This includes exterior bracing panels and decoration. Exterior bracing panels added. As you can see, the warping still exists. I think this will be an issue until I 'bolt' the whole structure to the deck. Next step, decorations and more interior structure.
  13. Chuck Seiler
    Ken, What news? The cog world awaits news of your progress.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    Are the reef points just knotted at one end and glued on? What glue did you use?
  15. Chuck Seiler
    Be careful what you wish for.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    Many thanks. You/Chris warned about not installing the tiller before adding the superstructure. I will heed this warning as well. I am using Weldbond to attach the straps/hinges but I am not sure how secure they will be.
  17. Chuck Seiler
    I tried to insert just the link, but the whole video loaded. If you click on it just right, you will find various clips of the HARRALD FAIRHAIR at sea.
  18. Chuck Seiler
    From one cog-man to another, well done!!! and good luck with your new build. WOOD: I have used cherry for internal framing in the past. It is strong and works well. FRAMES: Attached is a link to the building of the Viking longship HARRALD FAIRHAIR. You may have already seen it. While the longship and cog are not the same, construction appears to be similar. Perhaps it will give you some ideas. Reminder: on a cog the first three strakes (garboard plus 2) are NOT clinker, they are caravel. I look forward to your progress.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    Doesn't beeswax have some acidity?
  20. Chuck Seiler
    Clare, No, the support structures were there. I was just curious as to why we were adding them AFTER the ladder. Once I made the ladder, however, and saw the notches I figured it out.
  21. Chuck Seiler
    Progress continues. finishing up small parts of the bow area. Got photobombed by a bug who got onto the model before I starting photographing. Clare---I found you missing parts. I did not like the laminated bitts so I made my own. Next step. Add gudgeons to the stern, then stain the exterior hull. ...ooops, I have to stain the bow support thingies as well.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    ...as with all things. 😗 Sometimes I venture off the beaten path and do step 5 before step 3, later to find out why 3 is before 5. With that in mind using wood glue rather than CA (super glue) and have some rubbing alcohol at the ready. This can be used to unglue a mistake (or as I like to call it, a learning experience) so you can give it another go.
  23. Chuck Seiler
    I just run the line thru my thumb and forefinger 3 o4 4 times to work the wax into the material.
  24. Chuck Seiler
    To wax or not to wax is an interesting area of discussion. If you DO decide to wax, I would recommend against using beeswax. Too acid. I use conservator's wax which is acid free. Below is what I use, but there are many kinds.
  25. Chuck Seiler
    Welcome aboard!!! Don't worry about doing well... that comes with practice. Patience is definitely a requirement. Eyesight is fixed with magnification. POLARIS appears to be a good starter kit with simple hull, simple rigging. I am not sure how good instructions are, but build logs will help. As an aside, you have a good model club (Rocky Mountain Shipwrights) in Denver to help you with your new hobby. I know at least 1 member is on this list. Good luck, have fun and whatever ANYBODY tells you, you can never have too many clamps.

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