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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Check out "MICRO MARK". Go to their website and open their digital catalogue. Page 32 (I believe) has several micro drill bit sets ranging from about $15 to $30. Once you see what is available, you can get from MM or shop around. I have seen them at hobby shops, a local model railroad store, etc. Once you get the set and start using it, you will get a feel for what sizes you get most. You can then get individual bits just in this sizes when they break...and they will break. I find I use 60, 72 and 76 the most. I would recommend the hand held pin vise over the drill press.
  2. Chuck Seiler
    Thanks. I would have preferred it worked out right the first time, but this is a good alternative.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    That was just a quick and dirty to show where I am. I wanted to get in and out so all the comments and such can come pouring in. <crikt crikt> The process was easier than anticipated but would have been easier without the castle in place. At this point, I am thinking of 'Wipe on Poly'ing the hull. Is there any issue with applying poly over oil based stain?
  4. Chuck Seiler
    Chuck's Paint and Body Shoppe- Bend to fit. Paint to match. Close enough for government work
  5. Chuck Seiler
    You built HMS VICTORY during surgical residency? Wow! I'm impressed. What can you do when you are NOT overstressed and actually have free time on your hands. Welcome aboard.
  6. Chuck Seiler
    Agesofsail not Ageofsail https://www.agesofsail.com/
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Do you want to make a model of a big ship or a big model? SYREN Ship Model Company (MSW Sponsor) offers a semi scratch kit of HMS WINCHELSEA. It is a frigate but pencils in at 38 inches. Quality is top notch and instructions are very clear. Several build logs on the site as well as kit designer, Chuck Pasarro. The kit is offered in chapters. You only by the material required for the chapter you are working on at the time. Check it out.
  8. Chuck Seiler
    Sounds like a plan. I have had people who have seen Cardy-dog up close say the same thing. It isn't until they pick it up and see how light it is do they realize its not wood. The way they have you paint it, the ratios of colors, really works out well.
  9. Chuck Seiler
    Well done!!! I am inspired to complete mine.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    I believe ZHL is on the list of banned kits due to piracy practices.
  11. Chuck Seiler
    Another outstanding episode! I love your plank bender. A bit large, but you can use it to heat the shop in the winter. 😁 It is interesting that you install the garboard strake last. Isn't that unusual? I can't argue with your results. Keep up the great work.
  12. Chuck Seiler
    With the full under-carriage in place it does not look quite as bad. The side is still a problem but the stern (which is pretty much exposed) is closer than I thought. I can work with it. I was contemplating minor surgery. The top 4 strakes are not tied into the sternpost so it would not be a complete teardown. There are some underplank supports that would have to be dealt with, but that will be, for the most part, unseen so any damage will not be a big deal. Option 1 would be to use isopropyl alcohol to unglue and peel back the upper strake to the point indicated. Strake #2 would be unglued as well, except the rear-most plank would be removed and replaced with one that gets gradually wider towards the end. Strake 1 would then be glued back in place. One downside would be a new twist to strake 1. This may end up being unacceptable. Option 2 would be the same except to replace strake 1 with a wider version, connecting it so there is no twist. This has the benefit of requiring less of a flair at the end. Both of these will result in new, unstained, planking being added. It will probably result in the loss of uniformity of color when stained. Option 3 is to manipulate the stern castle planking so as to cover the gap, but be uniform on both sides. Bend to fit/paint to match. Regardless of the option, I will need to figure some way to fix or hide the gap in the stern.
  13. Chuck Seiler
    I have had time to think about it...even had dreams (the mind trying to solve the problem). I am sure nobody here has EVER had that happen. 😁 Along with these thoughts and your inputs I came up with a few options. I wanted to complete the undercarriage and re-test fit to see exactly where I stood before proceeding. Test fit complete. Pics and discussion to follow.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    DANG!!!!!!!!! I am 2/3 of the way thru the under-carriage for the stern castle and wanted to test fit to see if all was lining up and to see if I could get it to lay flat. I was able to get it to lay flat and all 4 tabs fit into the appropriate slot. YAAAHOOOO. However, looking from the stern it appears uneven. DANG!!!! Something must be wrong with the castle. There is about a 1/8" difference between the top of the gun'l from port and starboard. DANG!!! I measured all 4 stations, bottom to top of castle, on both side. Both sides matched up I ran a plumb along the center of the deck, from the bow-sprit-thingy in the bow to the aftmost part of the castle. The castle is centered. I then ran a vertical plum using the bow sprit and sternpost as guides. The castle is centered. My conclusion is that despite reasonably closely hitting all the marks in the planking proces, I missed the mark by 1/8 inch. Short of pulling all the planking apart, I need to figure a way to resolve the issue. Any thoughts?
  15. Chuck Seiler
    The decorative moulding on the stern castle is complete. You can see by the included ruler how thin this stuff is. Perhaps 1mm...and cross grain along half of it. I chose to paint the parts on the part tree, before removal. This turned out to be a good choice. It strengthened the part and prevents smudging of the red color onto the rest of the castle. The next step is to build the under carriage of the stern castle. We'll see how that goes.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    I probably will. I have Chuck's Rope Rocket, but have not managed to make any rope yet. I will be using conservator's wax to keep down the fuzzies.
  17. Chuck Seiler
    Clare, Coming together nicely. The shrouds look great-no twist.
  18. Chuck Seiler
    That's what duct tape is for. 😁 Makes sense. why did that practice stop?
  19. Chuck Seiler
    That is how I read it as well. It seems to be more difficult than it needs to be, but I guess they did it that way for a reason.
  20. Chuck Seiler
    Excellent, thanks. If I am not mistaken, the Almere wreck is early 15th century; slightly later than my cog, but in the same ballpark. The stropping appears to start off exterior to the block on the bottom side, then transitions to internal about 2/3 of the way up, then out though the top. Am I seeing that correctly?
  21. Chuck Seiler
    I agree. Even the simplest planking can lead to problems if the is still "spring" in the plank and needs to be clamped down.
  22. Chuck Seiler
    IIRC spiling is not a big problem with PHILADELPHIA. The structure and form of the hull is such that very little tapering is required. Much of this is due to the nature of the ship itself. A bunch of these were slapped together over a couple months in the middle of nowhere. They had plenty of wood due the a captured mill, but shipwrights were pretty scarce. They had plenty of plain old carpenters and folks who built lake bateauxs.
  23. Chuck Seiler
    Good luck. I will continue to watch.
  24. Chuck Seiler
    Hmmm. Hadn't thought of that. I was thinking the kit supplied blocks didn't look quite right. Perhaps it is because I am so used to seeing 18th century blocks. I guess I need to look at some of Louie da Fly's olde tyme cog paintings and re-evaluate.
  25. Chuck Seiler
    I assume you mean IPA=rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) versus the beer.

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