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Chuck Seiler

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck, Do we get a separate quarter for each frame or do we have to re-use the same one? Seriously, this looks great! I am looking forward to it progressing (in log form) and being available.
  2. Part of the allure of scratch building is making the parts yourself. If I wanted somebody to make all the parts for me I would go plastic. I say let Chuck get the basic kit into production, then worry about the add ons later...otherwise it may take awhile (sez the guy still working on the Longboat after 4 years).
  3. Pencils are 6 sided...at least the ones I get are. That is what I used for my SULTANA windlass. Getting the lead (graphite) out was quite a mess.
  4. I like the jig for the frames/bulkheads. I remember with the longboat, I had to take precautions that the frames wee square in all dimensions...the way that was planked you really had no room for error. This jig seems to, if not solve the problem, make it easier.
  5. I have been remiss in my model building for the past couple years, but I can still dream. I voted for the Pegasus cross section but the Dutch Boeier is a close second.
  6. Bruce, I'm just tuning in to your build. Better late than never, eh? All I can say is SUPERB!
  7. Brian, I applaude you idea to use a simple model as a training platform. My first piece of advice is to add alcohol to your toolbox....rubbing alcohol. (A good 12 year old scotch isn't bad either (but I digress). Alcohol helps soften wood glue and allows you to disassemebly your mistakes, er, ah learning experiences. I have done alot of that. I would like to add to Dan's advise. You will often have to bend planks, such as around the bow or edge bend up or down. This often requires soaking thee plank and fitting it into place AFTER you have spiled it. Let it dry in place and refit when dry. If you glue while wet, it will shrink and cause gaps.
  8. I am curious as to where the Princeton researchers got their data in the NY Times article referenced in Lou (limagna)'s earlier post. Are we to believe that colonial beds and doorways are small because they were too stooopid to make them the correct (for their height) size?
  9. The issue I have with this discussion so far is the use of a 6 foot person. People were smaller 200 years ago than they are today. I would shoot for a 5 foot person.
  10. One scene that was cut, modified actually, was the scene where they anchored in Brazil. This was related from one of the SD Maritime docents who was an extra in the film (he played the master at arms). The anchor for the movie was made of fiberglass. They came into the harbor with all the native craft escorting them, then dropped anchor....and it floated... CUT!!!!!! They had to haul it in, add weights to it then do it again. DOH!
  11. Even when knowing where it look it can be a challenge to find. It's a pretty big log. or some reason I don't see post numbers anymore. Hopefully this will help you locate. Here is the start of the thread.
  12. Gary, As you are already following Dubz's (sp?) build log, I may not need to mention, but I will anyway. Before you start planking, take a look at his log laser down the road. He talks about how the markings on the bulkheads do not match the plans. The result was that he had to strip all the planking, remeasure and re-plank.
  13. Clare, Who is GPM?
  14. For what it's worth, I am firmly in the #2 pencil camp. For me, solid black is not subtle enough. I have the privilege of belonging to a club with access to actual tall ships. I can go up on the Berkeley and look down on HMS SURPRISE and CALIFORNIAN and see how real caulking looks. Even so, scale distance is only 1.5 to 2 feet away. Mentally factoring in the effect of distance on color and I feel the old #2 represents it best.
  15. OPTIVISOR is supposed to be pretty good. Quality plus changeable lenses. I have one, but I still prefer my cheapo Deluxe Lighted Headband Magnifier (see MicroMark) that the lights fell off years ago.
  16. I'll buy that.
  17. I am late to the discussion...please pardon my tardiness. I was a little involved in the discussion on pigments referenced by Wayne, so this interests me in terms of "what did they use and why". I see the phrase "...did not paint..." several times above. I hope that means they did not use color, but did in some other fashion treat the wood. I have seen untreated wooden buildings and structures and note how (relatively) rapidly they deteriorate. I can only guess at the impact an open ocean, salt water environment would have on raw wood. Would pinetar be used, as Duff suggests, or something else.
  18. Vossie, Thanks for the tip on the book. Finishing has been a weak area with me. In some cases I prefer to paint a piece before installing it to ensure a crisp paint line, or lack of over paint. Similarly, paint or stain a section before installing moulding. The issue has always been to seal or not seal. I have painted with some success using a method outlined by Chuck and others. However, I only paint small areas. I either stain or leave natural the bulk of the model. I usually avoid sanding sealer due to fear that it will screw up efforts to stain. Perhaps I should experiment.
  19. Harley, Welcome to the entryport to the dark side. It starts with substituting boxwood for basswood. Next you are kitbashing and soon scratch building. Sometime in the middle you will pop over to Jim Byrnes' place and get a miniature table saw so you can cut strips from sheets.
  20. Certainly Derek is from a different dimension where their week is the length of many months here on Earth. Great job! The use of the freises (freisi?) is perfectly acceptable. That' why they are included. I look forward to your progress.
  21. Derek, Welcome aboard! For what it's worth, I have been modeling for many years and I found the longboat quite challenging. Its simplicity is quite deceiving. Since you are working single layer planking that can be seen from both sides, your planking job must be PERFECT. Good luck and happy modeling!!
  22. Excellent work!!! I love the detail. That looks to be quite a large model. Is your decorative work painted or gold-leafed?
  23. I would go with the 6 pounders. Golden Hinde had them for a reason, and it wasn't because 'they couldn't afford 24 pounders'. That's a significant amount of topside weight and a significant amount of recoil when the guns are fired. There were ships quite a bit larger than GH that didn't have guns as big as 24#.
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