Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Can you remove the gun or is it attached permanently? I think it is easier to rig the carriage, get it into position, then remount the gun. IIRC, I rigged the running tackle with the gun extended, anchored one of the breeching line eyebolts (with line attached), THEN hauled the carriage into place. As I said, it may be easier with the larger scale. New project: Colonial sloop PROVIDENCE.
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Steve, That's looking really good!! Wait 'til you start securing all the lines and bolts and stuff up at the pointy end. Hopefully it will be easier with the larger size.
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For some reason, I am not getting email notifications on the builds I am following, so I did not see this earlier. As I have told Steve, I have stalled on this project because I am obsessing over the nails. Your nailing looks pretty good...although I think you are using 1 less nail/plank/strake (based on Smithsonian ship). While not historically correct, after looking at your pics, I am thinking about going with the reduced number of nails.
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Clare, Greetings once again. Based on your post, I checked Amazon for the HK. The only one I found on Amazon (9 left) wanted $419.99.
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I believe the Lumberyard ONEIDA employs similar frame construction.
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The balls on the forward rack would have been the 12 pounders (3/16"). Steel ball bearings. Amazon has 144 for about $5. The 9 pounders would be about 5/32" about the same price.
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Down 4 points, ball on the 1 yard line, 3 downs, 40 seconds 2 times outs and one of the best ball carriers in the game. What could go wrong? DOH!
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What,no pics?
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Wow! Great job. I am glad to see you have been working on this. I feel bad about slacking off. (but not real bad) Which coils? On deck or rigging coils? In both cases I made the coils as separate entities and glued them over the loose end of the line. The coils for the running rigging was the biggest pain because there were so many of them. I used the handle of a small file to make the coils. I made several (6 or 7) wraps around the handle and tied an overhand knot to keep it from unraveling. I also coated it with diluted white glue. The handle was smooth and tapered so it was easy to slip the coil off once the glue dried. I slipped the coil partially off so that I could wrap part of the overhand knot line around the coil and knot it so it would not unravel. This was tricky and was the point many of my coils failed. One end of the line is cropped and hidden while the other is allowed to hang out as if the bitter end if the line.
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I had the same issues/concerns with schooner SULTANA. My initial thought was that the cable was wrapped around the portion of the barrel outside the frames, but that puts a very strange angle in the line between the hawse, the windlass and the grating where the cable goes below deck. Since there are two anchors, if they used the procedure outlined by John, would they just disconnect the cable from the unused anchor and leave it hanging from the cathead?
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Oh! Eyebolts, not grommets. Yes. Some people paint. I used "Blacken it", which takes more effort, but I think the result is better. <it's late.......>
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I'm not sure what the instructions say. They look white on the SMITHSONIAN model. ....so that's how I made mine. I used styrene tube.
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What next?
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Lookin'good. I am about to post some myself, but I am not as far along as you. I don't see the grommet on the inside.
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Gosh...I got a sled for Christmas. This does not have a sawcut all the way thru the bed yet. I did my initial cuts with a larger blade. I will make my final cut with my .030 slitting blade, the one I will use with this. My thanks to Krug for his directions.
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1/32" planking...yowza!! Mighty thin...not much there for sanding. Where will those planks go?
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Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Chuck Seiler replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Agreed. My point was that you don't NEED those tools if you want to scratch build but don't have a shop full of tools. I functioned very well for many years with my Dremel, exacto and sanding block. One day I got a Byrnes saw and the world opened up for me. Since then I started scratch building. I have now purchased a disc sander and expect my model building experience will gt easier and models better. Some day I will get some other thingamajig when I see a need for it. -
Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Chuck Seiler replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That depends on what you will be scratch building. I have been scratch building (although not necessarily scratch completing...but I digress) for years. The Byrnes saw and a handy Dremel are all the power tools I used. I was doing plank on bulkhead. If you plan on going plank on frame, using , say, the Hahn method or the Antscherl method, I think a scroll saw will be needed to cut out the frames. -
mini drill chuck for those small drill bits
Chuck Seiler replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another option http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Drill-Chuck-Shank-Micro/dp/B001S00FYM/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1418837229&sr=8-29&keywords=dremel+micro -
I was just browsing your log and found this...sorry for a belated response. I believe that the "Arrow" is a fictitious vessel. However, I think it is patterned after the gunboat "ALLEN". I have the kit (and still have not built it), so I was somewhat aware of the kit when I heard a presentation in 2001 or 2002 by Dr. Kevin Cristman from Texas A&M University on the "ALLEN" and it's recovery from Lake Champlain. In a side discussion he was talking to somebody about how the ALLEN and kit ARROW differed, but I don't recall the details...but it is close.
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Mark, I think I am on the same page now. As the frame is sitting in the sled, the cut is 90 degrees from bottom to top, but the actual cut still needs to be eyeballed in order to conform with the line on the template. The cutline in the sled/zero clearance slit lines up with the intended cut line on the frame.
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Does that answer the question? Not really. I understand how you get the 90 degree line on the template to begin with, but I don't understand how you get a good cut without just eyeballing it. As I see it, because the futtocks are curved, you may not (probably won't) get a true right angle cut if you brace the futtock on the back wall of the sled. DO you have a pic of how the futtocks sit in the sled?
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Bob, Good luck with that snow stuff. You are gone for a month and the Guild goes to crap and our meetings are getting cancelled. COME BACK!!!!! Anywho, I look forward to HK getting back on track.
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Mark, When you are cutting your butt ends/join ends, what are you using as reference plane? Obviously you are using the line on the plan, but since the frames are curved, how do you ensure the angle is true?
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