Cuda1949

Welcome aboard from a former Philadelphian (NE) now in lower slower Delaware. Keep the faith it does get easier the longer you stay with it.
 
Go Eagles
 
Al

Welcome aboard from a former Philadelphian (NE) now in lower slower Delaware. Keep the faith it does get easier the longer you stay with it.
 
Go Eagles
 
Al

Thank you to the people who follow this build.

Installation of bulkheads. And here all the difference in quality and precision of the kits produced by Syren appears.
When I remember it took me over a week of work to prepare and test the bulkheads setup on my Armed Virginia Sloop.
With the Cheerful, in ten minutes, the bulkheads blank test was done and I was able to start gluing them.
 

 
I had fun with my children's legos again. 😄 They won't hold it against me. They are now adults and have other interests.
 

 
Finally, I prepared a working basis to deposit my model.
 

 
I also planned a second base in anticipation of the fairing. I will probably raise it to make this task easier.
 

 
But before this phase, I'm going to reinforce the bulkheads and make a first modification to the model. I plan to add the detail of the captain's cabin which will be visible through the skylight.
 

Thank you Chuck and Glenn for your kind comments and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
Glenn, this is 'Wood Project Source' in New Jersey, USA. I ordered all the necessary wood as early as January 2018, just a few months before the company unfortunately ceased operations.
 
Installation of the rabbet strip.

I shape it using the laser board.
 

 
Gluing of the 2 segments
 

 

 
The keel elements are ready for installation.
This will be the next step.
 

Having completed the AVS, I can finally start this new and long awaited project.
Indeed, it's been two years now that the kit has been waiting for. I really wanted to finish my work on the Virginia in order to gain some experience.
I chose this project because it is an example of the best in the world of model shipbuilding. The kit is of the highest quality and the instruction manual is a model of perfection.
Moreover, I have many logs on this site and they are all very informative. I will try to show myself up to the height.
 

 
When I bought the kit from Syren, I immediately ordered the wood necessary for its construction.
The wood comes from Wood Project Source and it is really of excellent quality.
I opted for two types of wood: the hull will be Cherry wood and the deck will be Castello Boxwood.
 

The quality of laser cutting is truly exceptional.
 

I start by assembling the 2 parts of the keel.
The gluing is done between 2 plates of glass in order to have a really flat surface.
 

A first blank assembly of the different elements of the keel only reinforces my opinion on the quality of the kit. Everything fits together perfectly.
 

The stem is assembled.
I feel like it's going to be pure pleasure
 
 

@Rik Thistle: thank's for your nice words :-)! Yes, the kit is great to build! I'm realy happy to buy a Vanguard kit and nothing else for my first time build.
Unfortunatly, there are no marks on the frames, but they would be of great help for me :-). 
 
Parts fit realy well, so it is a lot of fun to build.
But I think I'm the first here to manage breaking on of the longitudinal stringers:
 

 
Dos'nt matter in the end.
What I realy struggle with is this: beveling of the first frames without any hint how far this has to got!
I realy would appreciate a kind of marking line on the frames or the planes! Ok, perhaps only for the first time builder I am, but nevertheless :-).
This is, what I have done so far, I hope, I did'nt overdo this allready...
 

 
And an overwiev of the whole thing so far:
 

 
Thank's again for all your great support! 🙂

I found this kit to be generally excellent. I modify all my kit builds extensively (including this one), but a significant amount of this kit's components didn't need replacing. I did NOT use the Kit's glue-on decorative (and very distinctive) printed paper patterns; instead, I chose to hand-paint them with much better results. For more accurate rigging, much higher-quality rope and blocks from Syren "upped the game" considerably.
 
Englishman, Chris Watton, is a first-rate kit designer. Amati is a first-rate kit manufacturer. Despite not using the planking, decking and masting wood supplied by Amati, IMHO the Revenge is still a worthwhile investment for builders not enamored with "scratch." My Revenge now sits in a dining room and generates "high fives" - even from friends and visitors who know nothing about what goes into our fascinating hobby. I've attached a hi-res pic to see some detail on what I did to modify this excellent kit and how I've chosen to display her.
Ron
 

OK  I will start the debate with the following proposition:
 
I have no data to back this up, but for most any assembled kit, the quality of the build is almost a non factor, provided that it meets an acceptable standard.  The sale price would probably be about the same as the retail price of the original kit.  For a $1700 Victory, I doubt that the compensation would even reach that amount.  Those with money to burn will want something original.  Victory, Sovereign of the Seas, or Constitution are anything but original, unique, or rare.  Those likely to value these particular ships are also those most likely to purchase a kit and build it themselves.
Being realistic,  you will never be paid what is needed to cover the number of hours - even at present minimum wage. 
 
A few years ago, I came across a guy selling half model plagues at a crafts fair.   If you develop a quick and dirty technique that is ruthlessly  efficient,  that may be a way to make a profit.  I suspect that all of the present noise is obscuring a substantial and increasing velocity economic change.  One that will have much in common with pre-WWII.  Is the return of a room in a boarding house as one of the few affordable sources of shelter that far away?  The point is that the time when many had money to burn on an expensive decoration may be fading fast.
 
 

Welcome to new sponsor INTER-ACTION Hobbies.  Look at their website to see some small boat kits and detail parts in various RR scales - O = 1/48.

Model Shipways kit for sale...New-in-Box, never started:
SOLD 1) Model Shipways #1457... 18th Century Longboat Kit...1/48th Scale...$40 postpaid USA via FedEx Ground shipment.
 
Please note I will be selling a number of shipbuilding related items from my workshop in the coming days, including tools and difficult to find modeling books...a result of my realizing my modeling passion is live steam model railroading.  Stay tuned for some great stuff that I hope will be helpful to those with a passion for shipbuilding.
 
Best Regards,
Cliff

 

very nice. I like the sails added to the model. Mine did not include the sails. 

Boxwood is the same as the shrubs and hedgerows and topiaries and all that. It's not uncommon here in the US but I think of the UK as swimming in boxwood. I can smell it from here. It takes lifetimes for boxwood to attain any size suitable for "lumber." It once had numerous uses, of which Admiralty models was one. Anything that required hardness and precision could benefit from being made of box. Fine tools etc. Molds for butter, for decorative plaster or wax elements. In medieval and Renaissance times, amazing miniature carvings were made from boxwood. It can hold detail as well as ivory. It's prized for netsuke, Japanese novelty pocket carvings. Early postage stamps were engraved on boxwood end grain. This practice was developed by Thomas Bewick and eventually became the go-to method for mass media printed illustrations, the famous Victorian line-art images that advertised everything from undergarments to machinery. It could hold up to thousands of imprints without degrading.

OK, so here's a post-election/pre-Turkey Day Update:
Needing additional work space (I mean we all realize that 2 sides of the shop utilizing a work bench isn't REALLY enough, is it???) I've added a slide in/out work tray under the back work surface under the window. I used left-overs and a piece of glued-up pine board (24"Wx15"D) that was a remainder, so have no extra cost involved. Well, since I don't pay myself.....yeah, that's right!!!
So, here is the open/shut case photos on this little project:

And finally, here is the board in use - I'm making small part assemblies for the 3"/50 Dual R.F. gun mounts on my 1/144 scale USS STODDARD project:

Oh, did I mention (no, I didn't ) that I'm now in the long learning curve of a 3D mechanical modeling program (Design Spark - Mechanical) - free version, of course!! Hope to sometime in the near future begin printing my own parts!!
 
Hank
 
 
 

Still in the 60's here in slower lower Delaware. Although the winds were howling last night,

Still in the 60's here in slower lower Delaware. Although the winds were howling last night,

Still in the 60's here in slower lower Delaware. Although the winds were howling last night,

Still in the 60's here in slower lower Delaware. Although the winds were howling last night,

Photo Bud here, living in Elk Grove Village, Illinois, United States. I have been interested in building a ship model for almost two decades and have accomplished almost nothing! I have built many plastic airplanes, helicopters, and ships of all sizes including a Revell Cutty Sark that came out pretty good, but suffered a 7 foot (2 meter) fall many years ago but I still have 'cause I can't bear to throw it out. I'm also a model railroader of many decades. In addition, I've been dabbling in Raspberry Pi and Arduino electronics. So a jack of many trades, but master of none.
 
Back in 2004, I joined the email list of Seaways Ship Model List  (and even recently got some new emails from it about buying and selling kits). I bought several kits around that time and must admit my first goal was to build a Constructo Cutty Sark which I have always loved, but one look at it made me realize there was no way I would ever attempt to build it with my limited skills. I had also bought a Model Shipways Dapper Dan with the intent to make it sort of look like an HMS Surprise but when Mamoli came out with their version, bought that one too.
 
After buying those, and realizing I would not be able to do them justice, I bought both an Amati Bluenose and an Amati Endeavor, hoping they would be good learning models. I started the Endeavor and got the bulkheads installed and shaped the mast and then got cold feet when it came time to adding the strakes. I'm hoping that this forum and some of the videos available here will get me off backside and make some progress.
 
Please bear with this novice as I attempt to learn and do.
 
John (aka Bud aka Photo Bud)

I'm a scale modeler specializing in scratch-building U.S. Coast Guard vessels for radio control operation.
I have built a 36' Motor Life Boat, a 38' Picket Boat, a 52' Motor Life Boat (Intrepid) and a 180' Iris class Buoy Tender (WLB 394 Hornbeam)
I have planned to build a 25' 8" Motor Surf Boat and a 30' Surf Rescue Boat both in 1 1/2" to the foot scale but at age 81 have lost some of my small motor skills and feel I could not do them justice.
I have plans for both and have framed-up the 30 footer.
I have a custom made brass skeg attached to the keel and stem plywood layout for the 25 footer with the prop shafts bored and station lines marked.
I am attaching photos of both as well as some of my completed models.
If anyone is interested in completing these two boats, please get in touch. I am in suburban Philadelphia.
Sam Wasson
 

Well I finally managed to finish the building slip. I shortened the base to 32" inches which means the largest keel I can mount is 27". That is the distance between the clamps when moved all the way out. It fits much better on my work bench at this length. I also replaced all the kit steel hex head hardware with stainless button head screws.
 

I will take it for a test drive on my Bluenose build, hopefully beginning later this week and let you know how it works.

I recently placed an order for some Hobby Zone Products with Hobby World USA. It was my first time dealing with Hobby World and I could not be happier. Ordering was easy, but I would call or email to check stock because their website is not always up to date. My entire order was shipped promptly and received within 1 week.
 
I ordered the following three items.
All arrived well packed and undamaged. As you can see in the picture my limited work area is becoming quite cluttered so it was time for some extra storage space.

 
I thought I would do a sort of review/build log of these products. The building slip has been pretty well covered in another thread so I won't rehash what has already been done. I started with the easiest one, the wall unit storage.
 
The illustrated instructions were very simple and easy to follow.

 

 
I started by laying out and checking all of the pieces. All were nicely router cut with no chips or marks that I could see. Overall the fit and finish of the parts was exceptional.
 

The only exception was the Logo oddly enough. However because this particular unit is symmetrical I was able to turn the back panel over and build it with out the logo showing. The fit on all of the parts is quite snug and required some light taps with a hammer in some cases. I decided to dry fit each assembly before actually gluing them.
 

The first step is to build three main sub assemblies. I used the back plate as a sort of jig for building these by gluing up the assembly then making sure that there was no glue on the back edges I "Plugged it into the back panel and let it dry. This way I was sure that when it came time for the final assembly everything would line up.
After assembling the three sub assemblies together the back panel is glued in place. This was kind of daunting as there were so many slots and tabs to apply and spread glue on. Then aligning them for assembly before the glue started to set up was a little tricky. This is where dry fitting at each step came in handy.
 

The three drawers were fairly straight forward.
 

I would say that this was a fun and useful little project. The assembly to this point was done in one afternoon. No doubt it could be hung up and used just as it is. But I will do some light sanding to ease some of the edges and apply a couple coats of oil based poly before loading it up.
 
I am guessing that the bench top unit will go together in much the same way. I will update when I get going on it.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

Hi Everyone,
 
I'm Jim, and I live in Maryland.  I recently FINALLY completed my Corel Flying Fish that I started in about 1984, worked on, on and off until about 1990 when I put it away due to career, business travel, kids & life in general.  I decided to try to finish it in March - with the pandemic shutting everything down, it seemed like if I didn't do it now, I never would.  So, 6 months later after working on it virtually every day, it's finally done.  I'll post some pictures in the completed gallery in a bit.
 
This forum that you've all created is just phenomenal!  The amount of expertise & skill is just amazing.  I did a fair amount of research on it as I was working on the Flying Fish.  The tips on finishing (had never heard of wipe-on poly), using sanding residue & glue instead of wood filler were really helpful.  CCoyle's comments about the quality of this particular model were also reassuring as I ran into numerous "that can't possibly work" issues that required some creative fudging...err, solutions.
 
My first wooden model was an Artesania Latina Swift, apparently like many here, which I did in 1981-82.  It's still in one piece & holding up well.  I'll put some of those pictures up later as well.
 
I learned to sail as a kid growing up in the 60's on Long Island, and have been obsessed with boats ever since.  We learned in prams, Sunfish & Bluejays about oh, 40 ft. from the Port Jefferson-Bridgeport ferry dock...a bunch of 11 year olds, 200 ft ferry?  What could possibly go wrong?? When I got older, some friends from college got me on larger sailboats (charters) in New England & the Caribbean.  Since then we've chartered, either with them, or just our family, about 15 times, usually the BVI's or the Chesapeake.  Most recent one was in the BVI's in early March.  We JUST got out in the nick of time.  Thought we'd get locked out of the US, but made it back.  The BVI's closed about a week later.  It was our first time with a catamaran (great) & our first time to Anegada (very shallow).
 
Anyway, thanks for putting this forum together - it's just amazing & inspiring!
 
I'll try to attach an in-progress photo of the FF from 1984(!) & from this past summer.

question 
Normally this deck is not bent. Are you sure nothing is wrong.
Now you can still adjust this if necessary

Greetings 
Patrick
 

Dave,
Thanks so much - I've also enjoyed posting the progress and also "messing witch people" along the way. I hope my humor played into this trip!!!
 
Hank

Roger,
This was 1977 and I think that was a CVA (Connecticut Valley Arms) kit, a 36 cal. percussion cap Plains Carbine w/octagonal barrel. Answer - No! I've never fired that weapon. I also have 2 of the CVA pistol kits that are yet to be built - 1 a flintlock and the other a percussion cap model. Both, 36 cal. I got rid of all my priming & loading powder many years ago (all DuPont Black Powder - the REAL stuff!!!!). I may get the carbine out of my safe and hang it on a rack in the shop. That would be appropriate. With an actual powder horn/leather ball & shot bag my dad had that I think is somewhere in the 1850's vintage. Needs a lot of leather oil and rubbing, not in good condition. I did have a .36 cal Navy Arms (Italian) Colt revolver that I nearly wore out shooting off the deck of my house (into the woods behind) back in the early '80s - that was fun!!!!
Hank