Landlubber Mike

Hello,
 
The Corel kit designed the internal keel, or spine, of the ship using 6 pieces.
2 pieces for the middle keel, 2 pieces on the left side and 2 on the right.
In this photo, you can see the pieces from the kit.

The total length of each 2 piece section is about 36 inches long.
The Corel instruction sheet says that the triple keel design was produced this way to keep the keel straight throughout it's entire length.
I was still worried that if I didn't get these pieces perfectly straight, It would show up later in the build.
So with the help of a friend, I built a steel fixture to keep the spine perfectly straight throughout it's 36 inch length (which I felt was critical to the build) and I added vertical supports to keep the ribs perpendicular.
Maybe overkill, but with the ship model being so long, I figured any warpage would be easy to spot.
 
Photo with 6 piece keel on Fixture

Keels all glued together

After the glued pieces dried, I sanded the bottom side flat and inserted filler wood where necessary.

Then with the keel back in the fixture, I sanded the curved keel (and filled with filler wood where necessary) and I filed the slots even to accept the bulkheads.

 
Now to start on the cross sections!
 
Frank

Hello my old friends on this forum
I have a number of books in my library that I no longer look at and might never look at again. This message is to sense whether there is any interest in them. Please PM if so. I'm not looking to make money I'd just like them to be owned by someone who will get more value out of them than I am currently. So happy to sell at a reasonable price - I have no idea if they are rare or expensive in other contexts. Shipping costs would suggest that someone in NZ or Australia would be a wiser buyer but happy to ship anywhere at cost - NZ shipping tends to be reasonable especially compared to the US rates! Happy to send pictures of any item.
 
Conway Ship Types:
The Bomb Vessel - Ware - hardback with dust jacket - jacket is a little tatty at top of spine - otherwise immaculate
The Heavy Frigate Volume 1, 1778 - 1800 - Gardiner - hardback with dust jacket - immaculate
 
Conway Anatomy of the Ship:
All hardback in immaculate condition with dust jackets (unless otherwise noted). All have fold out plans on obverse face of dust jacket. All have slightly faded colours on the dust jacket on the spine.
Endeavour - Revised Edition - Marquardt
Pandora - Revised Edition - McKay, Coleman - dust jacket has a split on lower left hand front cover
Granado - Goodwin
Bounty - Revised Edition - McKay
Beagle - Revised Edition - Marquardt
Bellona - Revised Edition - Lavery
 
I also have the Seawatch Series  Vol I -  IV of The Fully Framed Swan Class Sloop in immaculate condition which I want to sell but that might not be appropriate here...?
 
On another note I've decided to "complete" my HMS Fly model as a hull only model with mast stubs etc. Once finished there is a lot of materials and spares which I'll offer back to other forum members as a bulk lot - but that is in the future...
 
Cheers,
Alistair
 
 

I was thinking of buying those bricks for the tryworks on my Charles Morgan.  I'd love to hear your thoughts on them!

Lower main mast shrouds and ratlines now done.
 
Regards,
David

The equipment on the centre line of the upper deck is finished. The capstans are mounted on a 1mm pedestal framed with 2mm walnut. Finally I also managed to make shot garlands the way I wanted and filled them with 2mm balls. The part in front of the forward hatchway is left off to prevent the sailors stumbling over the shots.

The stanchions are leftovers from Pegasus and stand smaller than those from the kit but would fit below the capstan bars.

The oven will be placed directly on deck as any base below would be invisible after closing the deck.

The masts, stanchions and the oven are only provisionally put there and will be removed for the next step - detailing, painting and coppering the outer hull.


 



with only 2 guns in place the deck looks spacious


 
 



the captain wonders a bit about the carpenters many tries for the shot garlands


 
 



main hatchway

 
 


 


forward hatchway and capstan


 
 



polishing the oven


 
 



...and what will later be visible of it - but only after removing a gun

None yet, I am just finishing up another project and will get back at Stefano soon. Thanks for dropping in

Long time no post. Believe it or not: There's actually summer in the UK so I'm taking full advantage of that once-in-a-decade opportunity ;-)
 
I've been working on the model for about 15-20 min. almost every day for the past couple of weeks and simply thought it's pointless to update you on every little thing. I think there's some noticeble progress now so decided to take some photos.
 
A summary of what was done:
- 2nd planking completed - includig planks above black strake and in-between gun ports
- hull sanded down - no filler used (I don't think it's necessary)
- stern post and keel in place
- false deck in place
- gun/main deck in place
 
I've decided to paint the bulkheads and other bits inside the hull black as I want them to be less visible through gratings/openings. You can see the result on the last photo.

I think that my next step will be doing the gun/main deck planking followed by the inner bulwark planking and fitting the stern fascia.
 

Hello -  Thank you for the generous comments and 'likes'. Martin - just get on with it 
Sheet 10 nearly done with the Crowsfeet to do. So that is all the Stays and Preventer Stays.
 

Have this book which has been a great help as the plans at times are hard to see what's what.

 
Clear illustrations.

Mouses shaped from bits of dowel turned on a Proxxon lathe.

 

 
Fore Topmast Stay and Preventer Stay secured. Ends will be sorted with a rope coil later.

 
Overall pictures.



Thanks for looking.
 
Regards
 
Doug
 

Here are pictures of the model that was displayed alongside it:
 
 

I would have broken things out a little more.  Some kits for example have good plans but poor materials.  Some have poor plans but good materials.
 
I’d also note the results may not be fair to certain kit manufacturers.  For example, there aren’t many Billings or Bluejacket builds on here.  And the Lumberyard kit is a whole different kind of kit from the more retail mass market kit.

Continuing to work on shrouds.  When I did the foremast shrouds, I followed the approach noted in the drawings (see below), which is certainly structurally sound and is probably how shrouds were "hung" off the mast on the real ship.
 
The issue I had was twofold:  alignment of the deadeyes when fixing the second deadeye in the loop, and more important, creating the proper alignment and spacing at the top.  I really had to struggle to get separation and not have the shrouds cross approaching the top of the lower foremast, and the alignment I had on the foremast was marginally OK, but not what I really wanted.
 
So for the main mast I went back to the approach I used on the Revenge, which is to rig the shrouds one at a time, fixing the alignment and tensioning at the top with CA gel.  I'm much happier with the results.  See below, including two pics with white paper behind the shrouds so the alignment up to the mast is easier to see.
 
Regards,
David

I would suggest getting the tilting angle table (3750) over the right angle attachment. It's much more versatile since you can set it to any angle between 0 and 90.
 
Cheers -
John

Well I finally made the plunge and ordered the Sherline 5400 DRO. It came last week. I must say it is a beautiful well executed design that yields a very special product. I spent a good deal of time reading over the assembly and instruction manual as it is not an RTF (Ready To Fly parlance from the model plane industry) machine. The base with the X,Y table is an assembly. The headstock column is an assembly that includes the "saddle block" to mount the motor/headstock assembly to. The motor, belt guard and headstock must be assembled and since this unit includes the DRO it must include placement of the optical sensor for the speed encoder. The motor assembly in turn mounts to the Z column "saddle block" that has a bar guide alignment and centering stud that draws the assembly tight to the column. One surprise to me is these later units allow rotation of the headstock/motor at an angle to machine facets on material. Older units did not have this feature.
 
I did spend some time making a small portable base for the unit. Two drawers help store wrenches, cutters, chuck etc. I always had misplaced wrenches etc. with my Unimat lathe so i thought I would head off a similar problem here.
 
I thought this would be good to share as an opening statement before I get into its use over the next few weeks. I did not purchase Joe Martin's book on its use yet but will very soon as I am a rank amateur machinist.
 
Joe

Here are pictures of the model that was displayed alongside it:
 
 

Sure thing Elijah - here are the photos I took.  The lighting wasn't great, and I had to change the exposure of the cannon at the bow, but here are the pictures.  If you want me to send them directly to not clutter your log, let me know.
 
Cannon shot that sunk it:

 

Here are pictures of the model that was displayed alongside it:
 
 

Sure thing Elijah - here are the photos I took.  The lighting wasn't great, and I had to change the exposure of the cannon at the bow, but here are the pictures.  If you want me to send them directly to not clutter your log, let me know.
 
Cannon shot that sunk it:

 

Sure thing Elijah - here are the photos I took.  The lighting wasn't great, and I had to change the exposure of the cannon at the bow, but here are the pictures.  If you want me to send them directly to not clutter your log, let me know.
 
Cannon shot that sunk it:

 

Here are pictures of the model that was displayed alongside it:
 
 

Thank you, nice photos! I'll keep them on the log, as other people may also find them useful in the future.

Here are pictures of the model that was displayed alongside it:
 
 

Sure thing Elijah - here are the photos I took.  The lighting wasn't great, and I had to change the exposure of the cannon at the bow, but here are the pictures.  If you want me to send them directly to not clutter your log, let me know.
 
Cannon shot that sunk it: