Ryland Craze

Congratulations on completing your Pinnance.  You did a nice job on building this model.  I have enjoyed following your build log.

Congratulations on the completion of your Cheerful.  I have enjoyed following your build log and look forward to your next build.

You are making good progress on your Longboat.  I probably had more tape on my frames than what you have.  It really strengthened the frames and did not cause me any problems in the fairing process.  The tape will be removed before you start planking.

That is a nice birthday present, something you will cherish for the rest of your life.  We can tell that you are a proud PopPop.

I am sorry to see this happen, but glad the young boy is OK.  The good thing is the new model will be much better.

Thanks Chuck.  We are already registered for the Northeast Joint Clubs Show.  We look forward to seeing you guys.  We will also be spending some time in Lyndhurst and touring NYC.  I will also be visiting my favorite place to eat as pictured below.

Thanks Michael for your comment and for the "Likes".  I have completed the lining off of the port side of the hull.  Now I can start the planking.

Your Longboat is looking very nice.  Thanks for the tip on installing the simulated nails as each plank is installed.  I hope to see your model at a future SMSNJ meeting.

Congratulations on completing your Longboat.  I have enjoyed following your build log and have learned a lot that will help me on my build.  I hope to see your Longboat at the Northeast Joint Clubs Conference and Show in New London CT in April.  Thanks also for all of the fine photos of your model.

Ken, very nice job.  I cannot wait to see this in person in April.

Joe,

I get my blades directly from Thurston.  They are great to deal with.  http://www.thurstonmfg.com/jewelers-slotting-saws.html

Completed lining off the starboard side of my Longboat.  I had trouble with the tape sticking to the frames, but found some 1/16" Art Tape from Hobby Lobby that has worked out very well.  I took a damp rag and wiped off the surfaces that I wanted the tape to stick to.  The slightest amount of dust will cause the tape to not adhere properly.  Now to start the port side and then on to the planking.

Looks like a good start.  It will be nice to see another addition to the Cheerful fleet.  I look forward to following this build log.

You did a good job on your bolsters.  I hope mine turn out as nice as yours.

Here is a print friendly version of the Byrnes Saw Tips.  I have enjoyed my Byrnes saw and have used it more than what I thought I would have.  It is a high quality and precision miniature power tool.

Byrnes Saw Opeation Tips.pdf

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

I anticipated this and made those ears a bit large.  Once planking is done and you apply the frieze, you will no doubt have to sand off more and even reduce and lower the top edge of the transom.

That is good news.  I was afraid that I had messed up the transom.  It is great that you designed this kit so that small mistakes by the builder can be corrected leaving no evidence of the mistake.

That is good news.  Thanks!

Thanks Rusty.  I will definitely remove the tape after I finish fairing the frames and before I start the planking.

When fairing the stern portion of the frames, I accidentally hit the "ears" of the transom with my sandpaper.  This took off a little wood on the "ear" of the transom where it should not be faired.  This did not cause much damage, but repeated  hits with sandpaper would round off the the transom edge.  To prevent this from happening again, I placed a piece of painters tape over the "ears" on the transom to protect it from accidental fairing.

Thanks Chuck and Michael for your comments and also for the "Likes".

Chuck, the tape really made a difference as it strengthened the frames.  The camera makes it look as if it is overlapping the frames in some places.  I trimmed the tape so that this would not happen.  But, I did not allow for the angle of the frame edge being changed when the frame was faired and a small portion of the tape has come in contact with the sanding stick in some places with the sanding of the frames. This has not caused any problems with the fairing process.  I will be removing the tape when I begin the planking process so as not to chance the tape being glued to the frame.

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  In preparing the frames for gluing the keel to them, I took care to make sure that they were properly aligned.  The design of the kit gives you a little "wiggle" room for adjusting the frames from side to side.  With the keel dry fitted to the frames, I used a 1/32" thick piece of flexible planking material as a batten and kept adjusting the frames from side to side until all the frame edges touched the batten.  I taped some of the frames to the build board using painters tape so that they would not move when I removed the dry fitted keel.  I also marked the frame where the edge of the keel was so that I would have a reference point to place my glue.  When it came time to glue the keel to the frames, I followed the kit instructions and placed a generous dab of glue on the frame pieces. After aligning the keel, I used a damp paint brush to remove any excess glue. I glued the stern half of the frames to the keel and let them set up for 24 hours and then glued the forward half of frames to the keel.  Here are photos of my progress to date:

Next step is to "gently " fair the frames and to line off the hull.  I hope everyone has a safe and Happy New Year!

Welcome Sea Hoss to MSW.  We look forward to seeing your Syren build.  If you finish it by the end of April, maybe you could bring it to the annual Northeast Joint Clubs Ship Model Conference and Show held in New London, Connecticut.  I have seen several well done Syren's on display there over the years.

Thanks for the "Likes" and to  Ken for his comment.  I have completed the frames by following the instructions.  I sanded them with 600 grit flexible nail files.  I had to do very little sanding to get the frame tabs to fit into the slots on the build board.  I also had to do a little filing of the slots in the keel to get the frames to fit.

Once completed, I test fitted the keel assembly to the frames and everything fit perfectly with some minor adjustments.

Next up is to get the frames properly aligned and glue the keel to the frames.

Question on gluing the keel on top of the frames.  The slots for the frames on the build board allow for some side to side movement for adjustment purposes.  I am concerned that if the frames are not exactly centered on the keel, then this will cause problems when it comes to planking the hull.  Does anyone have any suggestions that would help to make sure that the frames are properly aligned on the keel?

Chuck, should I put a coat of wipe-on-poly on the sides of the frames before I attach the keel to them?  If not, when should the wipe-on-poly, if any, be applied to the interior?

Thanks

Thanks guys for the comments and for the "Likes".  I cannot take credit for the spacing jig as this was Doug McKenzie's idea.  I am also participating in the Ship Model Society of New Jersey Group Build of this kit and Doug had emailed members a drawing of this spacing jig.  I just put his jig idea into pictures. 

I left a little gap between the keel and the 1/32" spacer so that any glue that would seep between the 3/32" notched piece and the keel would not glue the jig to the keel.  After a few minutes of set time of the Titebond II glue, I removed the jig and cleaned up any excess with a small dental scraper and a paint brush dipped in water.