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captain_hook

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Everything posted by captain_hook

  1. I added some balsa filler blocks where needed. They secure a smooth plank run and give more gluing surface. Sanded them to shape with a dremel and selfmade sanding sticks. They are all made of scrap plywood and double adhesive tape. Bevelled all bulkheads. The hull is now ready for the first planking. And I will have to clean up my workshop!
  2. All bulkheads installed. The rabbit will make the first and second planking much easier. I will add some balsa fillers to bow and stern bulkheads to get a smooth run of the planking.
  3. Thank you Phil. I added a rabbit and corrected the bulkheads so all sizes remain the same as before. After tapering the stern and adding a rabbit I‘m now ready to to glue all bulkheads in place. I will use an alignment-tool from Hobbyzone (that was obviously made for bigger models) for that.
  4. Thank you for the nice review and showing all the content of the kit. I only wonder about the lion figurehead, the contemporary painting shows a different one.
  5. Welcome to MSW. The Sherbourne is a nice little ship to start with.
  6. Actually I made the first step, tapering the stern to the bearding line. As the kit is designed with no rabbit I will have to improvise or think about some sort of bashing to add one. I made a template based on the plan and transferred the bearding line to the false keel. Then used a piece of plywood with sandpaper attached to it by double adhesive tape to taper the keel so it goes from 5mm to 2mm at the stern.
  7. After studying the AOTS I‘ve already found some differences in the planking layout and the gunport sizes. I fear I need more time for preparation of this build than for the previous ones. I scanned the side-view drawing in the book, it is divided into two sections to match the size of the book. Then the two pictures were merged together with photoshop and enlarged it to match the size of the model. So I can use it for reference and hope that the AOTS book is a reliable source.
  8. Nice work so far. As the hull below the waterline is supposed to be painted white you shouldn‘t worry about using stealers to much. If that is your first model the primary goal should be to finish it, because your second model will already look much better due to the high learning curve and as you continually lean things about ships and modeling you might get frustrated with your first model after some time anyway. My first model was the Ballahoo - I used it for a test build to see if ship modeling is a good hobby for me and I cared much less for planking than you do. I was very happy and proud when I finally finished it but today compared to my second and third build the Ballahoo look rather awful. Before you cut out the gunports you may check the position and make sure, that every gunport is equally distanced from the false deck. You can use a strip of wood as a guide to draw a line inside the bulkwards for reference. If you head for a more scale approach note that the left and right sides of the gunports are orthogonal to the keel while the upper and lower sides follow the sheer / run of the deck. So especially at the bow and stern they look more like parallelograms, like seen on the NMM Sherbourne plan.
  9. Hello everyone, this is my forth kit build and my second build-log. I bought this kit on eBay for a very reasonable price some years ago because this model is one of some that forced me into the hobby and I hoped to develope enough skill someday to build it. So let’s give it a try. I wanted to build the Cheerful next but after building the Sherbourne and the AVS I got a little tired about modeling another single-masted ship. So returning to 1/64 scale - seems tiny in comparison to quarter-scale. The kit itself seems to be of good quality - except for the supplied walnut stripes that look awful. So I may replace that wood. I was also able to get an old copy of the AOTS book related to the Granado that might prove very useful for reference. First thing I did was to build the supplied rack to put the model on during the construction. Then I carefully released all the bulkheads to dry-fit on the keel.
  10. Thank you, Popeye. ☺️ The flowerhouse wasn‘t difficult to build. Almost all parts are supplied. I only used some matte varnish to protect the printed paper from UV-light, made a handle for the backdoor, a handle for the garden hose and a flowerpod out of some scrap wood. The items are arranged as proposed in the manual but can be rearranged as you like. The clear part has a protection layer on it that is almost invisible but has to be removed before assembly - that was not mentioned in the manual. But in the end it was a fun build that can be done in 4 weeks..
  11. Thank you very much, Ken. My daughter is very pleased, she already looked for a place to keep. I already have a display case with a backside in black. The battery-box is intended to be stored under the base, but that makes it very difficult to put on / off or change the battery. Instead the cable is now leaded through the bottom to the rear and then out of the display case. I will fix the battery box with double adhesive tape to the case. So activating the light is much easier now... THANKS EVERYONE for following the build. Next will be returning to ship-modeling...
  12. After a marathon session I completed the flowerhouse today. All remaining items were glued on, the cable was attached to the battery-box and some last flower-decoration and some grass powder was glued on the base. FINISHED! 😀 Some pictures from all sides and with the light turned on.
  13. Black cover stripes installed. They are made of black card and cover the plastic connection pins that hold the clear part together.
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