captain_hook

Hello everyone,

I keep asking myself if I should rig a model so that the rope has high tension or or keep the ropes rather loose (but not hanging through) to avoid stressing splicings and seizings. What is the best compromise?

Best regards,

Andreas

Installed the jeers and the forestay and then hang the lower yard on the hook for a test-fit. 🤗

I‘m working on the shrouds, have installed the shroud clamps and the laynards but only dry fitted until later adjustment. The supplied shroud clamps are made of britannia casting and I substituted them with syren shrouds clamps - they look much more appropriate and scale. Decided to refit the backstays to a more common way so the running rigging now has a lot of space to run downwards.

Thank you very much for the pictures and information. Now I can go on installing them. Thanks a lot.

Hello everyone,

I’m building an AVS and substituted the kit supplied casting shroud cleats with syren shroud cleats. The plans tell me to seize the casting ones inbound to the shrouds on both sides (as shown in the picture). But the syren cleats do have a grove in the center that the casting ones don‘t have. Are the cleats seized to the shrouds using that grove in the center or as supposed in the plan and then - what is the grove supposed to use for? 
 

Best regards,

Andreas

Thanks for sharing that, Johann. A great model.

Thank you all for the comments and inspiration. I thought about it and will redo the backstays. Since it will be a dockyard model and gaff and boom will be centered I don‘t have to worry about the question about historical correctness of symmetrie. But as it is a model it should be optical pleasant as well and doing two single backstay pendants which lean on the sides of the mars instead of one seized together below gives me the possibility to have more space for running rigging.

Thank you again. Now I have to continue with the shrouds first.

@Bob Cleek: Thank you for the detailed information. I guess it is not an easy way to balance modeling design aspects and historical approved aspects.

@SpyGlass: thank you very much.

Today I did more work on the standing rigging and installed the spreader yard horse. The upper part is served over its entire length. The shrouds are next, I consider that the hardest part of the rigging.

Thank you, Everest and Dubz. I used the C. Feldman book for reference and it seems Model Expo also did because they refer more than once in their manual to the model build by Feldman. AFAIK Feldman used plans from the Smithsonian Institution and personal research as reference so I assume his rigging scheme is based at least on historical probability. 

In the Feldman book the backstays are also mentioned as „running backstays“ and their function maybe differ from the cutter-rig (i.e. cheerful), where backstays are more permanently fixed for mast stability. Otherwise the AVS-rig includes topmast-backstays which are missing in the cutter-rig (if I remember that correctly). 

Thank you for the explanation. I agree that the gaff has almost no space to move. So the rigging plan of the kit is wrong in this case? I made 2 photos of the rigging plan segments showing the backstays, I‘ve done them like shown on the plan.  

Started the standing rigging with the backstays. I‘m not sure if the gaff throat and peak halliards (I mean the part that goes down to the tackles) run inside or outside the backstays, the instructions and the plans give no hints. Any suggestions would be very helpful.  Fortunately I have used hooks to attach the blocks so I can change them if necessary.

Thank you Bill, that is a very useful tip.

Hello,

I‘m working on an armed Virginia sloop (1-mast cutter-like rig) and wonder if the running rigging (especially gaff throat halliard and gaff peak halliard) run inside the backstays or outside. I mean the segment that goes down to the tackles (sorry, I‘m limited to school english - we didn‘t discuss much about age of sail in german school). My intuition says yes but I have done it otherwise - it just didn‘t look right. Thank god I have used hooks to attach the blocks.

Best regards,

Andreas 

Nicely done. 

Thank you very much. I made some more progress, starting to do some running rigging on gaff and boom. As Chuck Passaro said in the cheerful build log, it is easier to do this at this stage as all areas are still accessable. Used some hooks on the gaff, a nice little detail I saw in the cheerful log. The tackles are done but the belay points are not available yet so I have to wait with the last step. Did the heel lashing too, almost forgot that. Next will be doing the standing rigging ... next weekend.

You‘re making nice progress.

Thank you very much John for the kind words. The bobstay and bowsprit shroud seizings were way to large so I decided to redo them. Now they look more scale. Next time I will use my serv-o-matic to do the seizing but I have to make myself a fixing tool first. I wanted to bring the footropes to shape with some diluted white glue but as I put the glue onto the cotton rope it suddenly started to shrink 😱. But in the end I managed to bring them back into the former shape by hanging some weight at it. That finishes the standing rigging on the bowsprit except for the heel lashing. I will do that tomorrow.

Started to rig the bowsprit. The bobstay and the bowsprit shrouds were served via the serv-o-matic. Took some time til I got them done. Also installed the footropes, wil bring them to shape later. 

Gaff and boom installed. For the footrope I made a template with similar distances for the knots and made an eyesplice to each end. All blocks on the boom are prepared also. 

Thank you for that information. I will try the different treatments and see if I get good results.

Hello everyone,

just another newbie rigging question. It is the first time that I use after-market rope for rigging. Shall I use some treatment on cotton rope (I.e. syren miniature rope) like bee-wax or varnish or leave the rope untreated? If yes, should I use the treatment before installing the rope or after that? Thank you for help.

Best regards,

Andreas

Thank you very much for all the help. Next weekend  I will try and eventually post results.

Thank you very much, that helps a lot. 
 

@druxey: I don‘t want to bother you but may I ask you if you have a picture of the completed false splice? My visual perception may be more effective than my literal understanding (and my english vocabulary). Else I will try and post a picture of my tryouts. Thanks again.

Thank you for that, that is very useful for simulating a strop. But I also need some more informations for blocks attached to tackles. Here is a picture of a contemporary model. The blocks shown (running rigging) don‘t seem to be connected to the rope by knots but by twisting the rope or some sort of splicing. The diameter of the connection only slightly larger than the rope itself.