Thistle17

Sorry I haven't been able to answer any questions lately. We had a family need that took me away for the last 2 weeks. Now don't chuckle too much but I completely damaged the false keel and frames in the interim and am having to start over. My lack of focus and limited time got me in big trouble. You seem to be disciplining yourself and I need to do the same. You can't just swoop in and work on any model and then hastily retreat without consequences. Slow and steady with a clear mind is required. Joe

You have a storied ancestry with I am sure stories to tell. Welcome to this incredible shipyard. We have some lineage in our group as well, a descendant of Donald McKay, the Canadian, who settled in America, ultimately building ships out of Newburyport Mass. It all adds to the nature of this wonderful pursuit. Joe

If this is the Model Shipways kit you can request a new part which comes within the full original sheet with no charge. One of my sheets was so badly burned by the laser cutting process I requested a new one and it was sent promptly w/o charge. Joe

I also have this kit and recently started it on vacation. I have built models before but because of its size and the delicate nature of the frames/bulkheads I had to adjust my methods a bit. The bass wood elements are easy to break when sanding during the hull fairness. Be careful. I did have to lightly file the slots in the false keel and bulkheads so I got a decent fit. Be careful with the depth of the slots so that they do not drop below the rabbet area. Once you are ready to fasten the frames/bulkheads to the false keel I built a simple jig to keep the false keel straight. It was a piece of mdf with 2 laterals that made up a false keel slot. Starting at the stern I walked my way forward fastening the frames. Checking as I went for level, port and starboard, and perpendicularity to the false keel. As you proceed make sure the frames are as parallel to each other as possible. In sanding the hull for fairness one of the frames broke. I think it may have been cracked from the get go. After repair I fastened a 1/16 strip about 1 1/4 wide down the middle of the top of the frames (not interfering with the actual members that will be left behind, just in the break away part of those frames). That kept the frames pretty steady for the sanding. Once the hull is planked this can be removed. I also did this with an extension atop this member to make the transom more rigid. I hope this helps. Everyone has their methods and some are less heavy handed than I am. Joe

Here is a start -Evercoat Rage 10105 also has this product See www.evercoat.com/putty/us. I will get back to you with the 3M version. Both available on line and at auto finisher shops. You can buy it in 1 quart cans. Joe

You are a unique individual Michael. Your journey was a delight to follow. I would imagine there were mixed emotions in its "sailing". Joe

I helped my grandson build a Dumas vessel with wood and PVC hull. We had to fair in the chine against the side planking and we used both Rage and 3M 2 part mix that sands easily and gives an incredibly smooth finish. I (we) found it worked better than Nitro Stan putty as it does not shrink when dry and it is a dry sand process rather than a wet sand which can be tricky near, for example, the wooden planked sides. Joe

You have dwelt where very few have had an opportunity to witness and study the masters of their time. They were an inspiration to all, past and present. I suspect "living" within in this realm you may calibrate your work against theirs. It is hard not to do. Also when it is a work project one cannot always take the time you would otherwise invest if it were your own. Within this forum there are modern day masters that we all, at times, compare ourselves to. For myself I have been inspired by and learned from them. Welcome to MSW. Joe

I was just reviewing Bill Short's book on ornamental carving this AM and his preface regarding tools was not as positive on Demel tools compared to others. From memory I recall that he advises one purchase the foot switch for better speed control and use of the flex shaft attachment. Other comments align with what has been said. Again his comments are related to ornamental carving. Joe

Welcome to the forum Glenn "y'all gonna love it here" as they used to say to me when I lived in Denton. Truly this is one of the best things that has happened to modeling of ships. It has something for everyone, skilled to just getting started. In addition to the tutorials on the site please visit our web site ww.modelshipwrightguildwny.org. Look under Resources/Shop Notes/Planking as it is our attempt to integrate much of what one can find here in this forum but also delves into the planking graph a bit further which is an aide to the process. Joe

Your observation about this scale certainly does open up opportunities. Dovetails and raised panels my, my. Your imagination and execution of the stand is intriguing to me as I just went through a struggle to come up with one for a 1:20 scale model that weighed 45 pounds. Nice work Michael! Joe

Mike look at Syren web site!!!! Joe

Thanks Chuck I too am waiting patiently for the release outside your club. Joe

Chuck as I follow along I am entranced, but find myself losing track of the end product that will define the kit. Is your kit offering changed or is it going to be pretty much like Cheerful? Please, please, don't say as my wife says to me all the time..."Haven't we had this discussion before?" Joe

Mark I just discovered your work. The subjects, both of them are a treat to the senses. Experiencing both "worlds" is better yet. Your work is exceptional! Joe

I had this unhappy event back in the 1980's with my Bluenose model. I had that powdery white dust all over the encased model. Two years ago I removed the affected elements, cleaned them up and repainted the one's I could salvage. They have yet to go back on the model as I was waiting to see if the problem would return. I have kept them inside a plastic case with no ill effects evident. To address the problem with the encased model I drilled 3 vent holes at the top of the back of the case and provided some venting in the case floor hidden by a name plate support. Since doing so I have had no sign of metal breakdown. I even installed a miniature muffin fan controlled by a timer to see if that would do the trick. It seemed to do the job. So then I went completely to passive venting and that has worked as well. My case is glass on sides, front and top with mahogany framing. I have suspected the floor of the case might be part of the problem as it is mahogany plywood. They use formaldehyde in the plywood adhesive so watch out for that. Joe

I stand corrected then. Can,t stay in business with that reputation. They are unreliable at the least and fraudulent at the worst. I will never use them again. Joe

I could not agree more with Greg and David. I have the entire collection including the 4 years of the annual publication. They are a treasure of some of the finest model ship building out there. Thank you for the reference on the Advance Book Exchange. Joe

Tuesday 9/11, not a day to remember the delivery of "Herself" aka Atlantis to its new home south of Naples NY. It took nearly 6 hours to re-rig the model on site even with all the prior preparation and use of previously mentioned fittings from Du Bro. I had only moderately taken up the shroud and stay tension in the early rigging cycle so when at the new site it became somewhat of a problem to do so and get the masts aligned correctly. There is a clever adjustment in the mast tops which enables final shroud adjustment so that brought it all into alignment . Running rigging re-installment and cleanup accounted for the balance of time spent. This model build/conversion has occupied much of my attention for 20 months. The owner is delighted with the model and expressed her appreciation for its completion as it has a lot to do with memories of her late husband. That in itself was a reward for me. So here is a final picture of it in place and the lovely owners home. This was more than a model build for me it was an opportunity to meet a new friend.

Welcome to this great source of model ship building! You are fortunate to live in an area rich in outstanding modelers aplenty. Check out the NRG site for groups there. Do look them up and do visit the many museums in your area. Joe

We are a society of "accumulating things", yet when you work with quality products such as the Byrnes line of tools it is not so. I have owned, for example the Preac table saw. Which, in itself was a decent product, but limited. Now that I own both the table saw and thickness sander I have come to appreciate them more with each use. They are peerless! Joe

After nearly 1 year and 9 months "Herself" is awaiting departure for its new home. The new stand has been assembled and varnished. A brass identity plate was crafted at a local trophy shop. The deck furniture has been packed up and tools are ready to go. I prepared a build "brief" as well. I was unable to access this build log to export text but I was able to export some of the key photos and added abbreviated text which speaks generally to the build. I also included materials used and parts purchased for future reference. As I had indicated the table and sails were delivered the prior week and await the model delivery and re-rigging. I have given the owner dates into October that work for me. So now we wait. In the mean time it is back to Cheerful! Joe

Chuck your strategy makes a good deal of sense. It would seem to lessen the front end rush and provide a continued annuity stream as well. joe

The accolades just keep coming don't they. Me thinks if I add even more than I have, in the past, they will overflow your "kudos" jar. What I would reflect on is your marketing strategy, deliberate or not. Not only do you possess an incredible level of creativity and craftsmanship but you have found a way to connect with the community at large like no other. In doing so you have generated such an avid following and interest for your works. It is exciting to follow your thread and this future offering may exceed your fondest wishes, I fear. It was a good pick to start with. I await patiently your release of the product but I have no illusion about the fulfillment dilemma to come. Joe

Now this has nothing to do with ship modeling, but if you will, it has everything to do with the versatility of the Sherline Mill. Recently I bought the 4" rotary table and tooling plate for the mill as my first accessory. From several sources I had read how useful it is and this immediately proved to be so. Now I am not a skilled machinist so you folk that are, will probably consider this elementary, but for a novice like me every use of the mill is a discovery and eye widening lesson in use. The rotary table can be mounted to cross slide in a traditional manner or can be mounted 90 degrees to the cross slide/table. This does require an additional part which I have yet to order. Sherline also offers a tail piece to mount in a similar manner. I had to make a 3" wide collar for a repair of a glass table top that was damaged in a wind storm. I used a 5" piece of Delrin bolted to a sacrificial plate which in turn was bolted to the tooling plate I had also ordered. I reasoned that if I centered the desired piece on the rotary table assembly and positioned it so that it was dead centered to the milling head tooling I could then index it in the 'X' axis 1 1/2" away (never touching the 'Y' positioning) I could cut an acceptable disc and receiving hole in the stock piece with accuracy and ease. Again this is just more testimony into the applications of the Sherline Vertical Mill. This machine is a joy to use so if you are holding back in its purchase....DON'T, it is such a great machine! Joe