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davyboy

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  1. davyboy
    Hi Ronald.the price in pounds includes 20% V.A.T. Deduct 20% from the U.K. price then do your conversion to U.S. dollars. The dollar price they quote is about right. British V.A.T is not charged on orders from outside the E.U. Dave
  2. davyboy
    Lovely job B.E. she looks splendid Just my opinion but I think painting the fashion pieces would enhance her appearance. Moved the long guns to the second gunports,I like it. A minor problem is how to disguise the holes where the guns were pinned to the deck,I've got a couple of ideas on that. I now have space to fit a pair of swivels each side fwd which I'll likely do. Regards and I look forward to the next phase of your build Dave
  3. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. The problem with moving the windlass aft slightly is that you only have around 1/8" to play with. To move it any further aft requires also repositioning the fwd grating further aft. In any case,with the height of the Bowchaser Guns and Carriages the breech of the Port Gun Barrel would still impact on the bowsprit (it does,just proved that) which cannot be raised. I'm moving mine aft to the next port. Jeer Bitts ? Did you mean the hand winch In reality I expect they towed the Ships Boat. I agree about swivels,would almost certainly have been fitted. Looks like I may have some retrofitting to do Regards, Dave
  4. davyboy
    Very nice job B.E. I would advise cutting the fashion pieces flush with the top rail now,I didn't on my model and broke one of them off needless to say I'm currently finishing off the lower mast rigging. I'm seriously thinking of moving the bow guns aft one gunport. Apart from the fact that the port gun would smash into the bowsprit and/or the post knee on recoil,both guns would have to be moved when dropping or raising the anchors. They both obstruct the run of the anchor cables to the windlass. The three Cutter models on the NMM website have these ports empty as does the one that was in the Science Museum of which I've a photo that I took 11 years ago. Kind regards, Dave
  5. davyboy
    Richard you are correct. Just tried to watch it,UK only I'm afraid I can get some UK television programmes here on the internet so will watch the next part next week. Dave
  6. davyboy
    Jim,I was a "crabfat"no pussers hard for us. But,try telling a "Dhobi wallah"not to starch and iron your "shreddies" along with your K.D. shorts and shirts was often a waste of time. Not so 'comfy'. 😢😢 Dave
  7. davyboy
    I think the term for this was called "Dog and Bitch" in England. Dave
  8. davyboy
    Hi Allan,I had a look at Steels tables. I appreciate he's from a later period but I would think that rigging size proportions would be similar Needless to say he doesn't cover late 17th century 56 gun 4th rates. I've copied this for a 50 gunner and a 64. 50 guns :- foreyard braces 3 1/2", pendants 4 1/2". mainyard braces 3 1/2", pendants 4 1/2". crossjack braces 2" pendants 2 1/2". 64 guns :- foreyard braces 4", pendants 5". mainyard braces 4", pendants 5". crossjack braces 2 1/2", pendants 3 1/2". It would appear that the crossjack braces are a little more than half the size of the mainyard braces,the pendants a bit more. Perhaps you might be able to work something out from the calculations you made from Lees formula. Personally I would round-up or down to the next 1" or 1/2"size,I don't think ropes were sized within 1/8". For example 3 1/8" to 3"or 3 1/2" and 1 7/8" to 2". Anyway,I'm no expert but hope this may help. Regards, Dave
  9. davyboy
    Jim,I really do like your paintings,very good indeed. "Dhobi day",that saying brought back memories for me. Over 50 years ago when I was in Aden we had a "Dhobi wallah",who did all our washing for ten bob (500 fils) a fortnight. Regards, Dave
  10. davyboy
    Warnerade,I posted a reply to your query in the masting rigging and sails section. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Hi Warnerade, The kit drawing is wrong. Where it shows it attaching to the fore topmast should have a block or thimble there. Fit one or the other then follow the rigging diagram shown in your first photo which is correct. It looks like an eyebolt is shown in the kit drawing. you can always cheat by turning that 90° but the stay has to be run through it and rigged as in the first photo. Hope this helps. Dave
  12. davyboy
    Allan,I have had a think about this,how long is the lower masthead cap above the trestle trees ? Consider the distance there,the top rope is attached on one side of the cap to an eyebolt. It runs from there through the Topmast sheave back up to a block on the opposite side then down and aft to its tackle attachment point. That could perhaps account for the 30 foot difference. Only guesswork by me of course as I'm no expert. Just out of interest,does the Litchfield have a single or double top ropes. Dave
  13. davyboy
    Good evening Allan. Do you have access to R.C. Andersens 17th century Rigging or Rigging in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast ? You may find some info there. I'm away from home just now so can't check my copies. The first book has a rigging plan of the St George 96 and I seem to recall the Topropes and their Tackles were led well abaft their respective masts. Dave
  14. davyboy
    Gene,I looked up the kit on the internet it is by Billings at 1/75th scale and is 110 cm overall length which corresponds with the hull and bowsprit dimensions you gave. The best way to clean believe it or not is with cotton buds damped with water or spit,never use solvents of any description. I know little about Clippers,my interests are 17th and 18th century English Warships. You can find a huge amount of info on Clipper rigging if you read Ed Tostis' build log of the clipper Young America in the scratch build section here in the forum. He is rigging his model exactly as the original ship was. You will not find better anywhere as Clipper ships were rigged very much the same. That should help with your rigging inexperience. Incidentally,Ed's build is at 1/72nd scale,close to your models size. I hope this is of some help to you. Kind regards, Dave
  15. davyboy
    Hello Griptite. From looking at the deadeyes and blocks I'm 99% certain it's a Billings kit. Don't know of any other kit maker who supplies/supplied those ghastly plastic things. Up to you but I'd remove and bin all of them and re-rig the model using decent quality parts. You'll have to remove some rigging in any case to replace/repair the broken spars. Chuck Passaros' Syren Ship model Company produce excellent quality blocks,deadeyes and scale rigging rope. The model actually looks to be quite well built. What ever you decide to do have fun Kind regards, Dave
  16. davyboy
    Good evening BE, Very nice treenailing job there,I didn't do this as at that time my eyesight was pretty bad. Didn't think I'd be able to do a decent job. I don't have any pix of my build but when I finish I'll get the Admiral to take a couple and post them on the MSW facebook page. Have you bought all Chucks' minikits or will be you doing some scratch building of the deck furniture ? I had a great deal of pleasure making all of mine,blocks etc excluding the Windlass. I bought that with the plans,had no mill then. I laid my false deck in one piece,using epoxy after ensuring it was a good all round fit first. Incidentally,the dimensions of the yards on my older plans are wrong. Chuck posted an amendment in ch.14 of his practitum giving the correct lengths. Guess who had made his yards before this New yards made,job done. No modelling for the next 2 weeks,we're off house sitting tomorrow for her son. Quite boring for me but they have a fairly large garden so I expect that will keep me somewhat occupied. I'll still be watching though,my Laptop goes with me,must have my daily"fix". Kind regards, Dave
  17. davyboy
    Aviaamator is correct. It allowed rainwater or water from wave action to drain out of the gunport recess. Thus helping to prevent rot. Pissdales are a totally different fitting on the inside of the bulwarks around the upper deck. A little forward or aft of the waist. Dave
  18. davyboy
    Good evening BE. You're doing an excellent job there,very nice indeed. I didn't like the red counter,I painted my model in the blue colour as in the pic Chuck posted in his practicum. Fitted and rigged my Bowsprit today,lower mast tomorrow as all its standing rigging is already attached. Had to make a new Forestay deadeye,the one that came with the plans 3 years ago had the grooves for the Lanyard cut in the wrong direction. C'est la vie. kind regards. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Bob, I've seen it at the annual Messe (trade fair) in Basel. A company from Bern sells this version and the older plastic Unimat One. Very overpriced and not really very good IMO. 10 years ago after taking up shipmodelling again not knowing any better I bought their Unimat One Cool Tool and Circular Saw. Big expensive mistake. Very inaccurate and underpowered to boot,1/16" horizontal and vertical difference between centres when setting up as a lathe which cannot be adjusted out for starters. It will never replace the original Unimat lathe and mill. The saw is also very inaccurate due to it's assembly and struggles to cut 1/8" pear or plywood (9 volt motor). The only good thing about the saw is mine came with a set of the old quality Unimat blades. Just wish they fitted my Proxxon saws. Also,the accessories for the new version are very expensive it looks pretty but....... My advice to anyone is save your money,you can buy much better and very probably cheaper. Dave
  20. davyboy
    Hello Don, Your gun carriages are correct for the 17th century. The design of the carriages you have made was not changed until around the 1730's. To quote Laverys' Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815. "Around 1725 it was discovered that the bed of the carriage was not really necessary. The brackets were extended lower down,the axles were fixed by a more complex joint to give greater strength and a separate surface known as the stool bed was provided for the sole purpose of supporting the wedge or quoin used for elevation. The bed was dispensed with and the carriage made slightly lighter". Also,English gun carriages never had holes for the breeching rope bored through the carriage sides as Dan has suggested. I shall enjoy following your build,keep up the good work. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hello Geoff, Have you considered using Privet. I recall reading on the forum a couple of Australian members recommending this. Apparently it's readily available as it's considered a weed there and grows into a small tree. Sorry but I can't remember who they were,perhaps if you PM Jim Lad he may know. Dave
  22. davyboy
    Hi Stergios,you are welcome. I'm happy to have been of help to you. Kind regards, Dave
  23. davyboy
    Hi drtrap, They are the Topmast backstays,respectively from fore to aft. The first is the Shifting Backstay. The second is the Breast Backstay. The third is the Standing Backstay which is set up with deadeyes. I have checked Steels' dimensions of Standing and Running rigging,he quotes for a 6th rate ship such as HMS Snake :- 4 1/2" rope for the Standing Topmast Backstay and the Shifting Backstay and 3" rope for the Breast Backstay hence the two different sizes quoted on your plan for A and B. They have nothing to do with yards or running rigging. I have just noticed that there is an almost identical arrangement on the Foremast except the Breast Backstay is further aft. I hope this helps with your problem. Kind regards, Dave
  24. davyboy
    Hi drtrap. As GrandpaPhil says these are two of the Topmast backstays they are called running breast backstays according to Lees. Dave
  25. davyboy
    Good evening B.E. An excellent job of planking,I'm sure it will be as good as any planking to be seen on the forum when sanded and a finish applied. Best of luck with treenailing,I elected not to do this at the time due to poor eyesight. I'm currently making up all my rigging and bagging the finished articles then it's just a case of fitting it when I put the mast and spars in. The end of the tunnel is in sight after 3 years. Keep up the good work, Dave

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