davyboy

Hello friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
New pictures of the  74 gun-ship.
Regards
Karl
 
T e i l  11

take a look at the season six finale of Game of Thrones.......check out some of the ship........I love it!
 

 
love to get the plans to build one.........lots of great detail  

Thanks for the comments, Alan and Steven, and to the others who clicked the 'like' button.
 
(Steven ~ I'm glad your jig works!)
 
Hammock cranes -- Part 3 - - - Poop deck starboard side.
 
Used the same jig as I did for the waist cranes but just had to fit another fence with a slot angled at around 87 degrees instead of the vertical slot. (Of course, just for added fun, none of the cranes here are the same dimensions as any of the others.) >>>

. . . with ropes fitted >>>

 
I made these cranes to the dimensions shown in the drawings and fitted them in the positions also shown in the drawings, but when I saw them on the ship I began to worry that the netting would interfere with the mizzen mast shrouds/lanyards. So I mocked-up a dummy mizzen mast, channel and shrouds to test if there would be any clearance between lanyards and hammock netting.  It looks like there should be about 1mm to 2mm space so hopefully no fouling between these items.
 
In the hope that there WILL be clearance later, I went ahead and fitted the netting >>>

 
Starboard side nettings all in place >>>

 
. . . hammock cranes/netting - - - just parts 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 to go . . . . .
 
 
 

PS: Yes, no masts - almost - late afternoon October 21st 1805 ;-)
 
XXXDAn

I continued with imitation of planking.I made it as always - using strips of foils ( after gluing of strips I´m using hairdryer to heat foil for better adherence ). The hull was " too shiny " , I patinated it to make a planking effect using aniline water colors. and colorless matt varnish. Then I painted bottom of the ship.
It looks like gunports are too close to watreline - but it si exactly based on plans.
Gratings you can see are laser cutted. 

I continued with clinker planking. I used 2,5 mm strips of 0,5 mm cartoon and glued them 0,5 mm each on another to make clinker effect. Then I colored it by red colour.  Then I glued the 1 st wale and some planks.

Then I continued with gunports and inner parts of planking - each side was made from three parts.

The final layer of planking followed - I used 4 mm strips of 0,5 mm cartoon - you can see it on the 1 st picture. Then I sanded it, smoothly putted and sanded it again - the hull was extremely solid and smooth.

Then I continued with second part of layer of the bottom part of planking using 5 mm strips of drawing paper, I glued them across the first layer. Third layer of planking followed and the upper part of planking. The upper part of planking I made from four parts, the curvature on the aft I had to make separately. I sanded each part of planking.

Continuation 
I thank Steven , Patrick 

I welcome:)
Scale1:66

I believe those to be Top Rope scuttles Daniel, I scribed them into the decks on my Victory.
 
Wouldn't normally be in use except when raising or lowering the topmasts.
 
M.

Think I've got a bit of catching up to do.  Firstly, heres the Captain Cook Monument in Waimea, no undercooked beef wellington shots in this one   .  Found the beach he landed at, nothing special but couldn't locate the plaque that allegedly marks the spot according to guide books.
 

 
I have managed at least an interim milestone, the completion of the starboard copper...this task just goes on and on
 
Couple of items I've found to be helpful:
Super Solvent - I've found this product to be highly effective at getting rid of any CA glue residue (at least the Admiralty Pro thick stuff).  Wiping over the surface of any potential smearing is usually enough Some plates plates require very acute angles to be cut and when using scissors (which I find by far the easiest), the ends tend to curl and distort horribly.  I found that cutting these as part of a larger section this problem is eliminated, although care is needed still to separate them.
 
And the results.  Some of the photos are before I cleaned to plates with copper cleaner, which I did to ensure that there was no CA residue anywhere.  These will need to be done again once all the plates are on as I can guarantee more finger prints.  Managed to do the copper plate pattern at the bow that seems to be prevalent on so many models and AOTS drafts, slight discrepancies in the plates will only become less noticeable as the copper ages and darkens.  Overall I'm very happy with the Amati plates, and slight plate misalignments that just seem to be inevitable when using CA glue are tolerable.  Not sure I could do it any better if I were to do it again, so I think that's the yardstick to meaure to.
 
At the bow, I plated the cutwater first and tried to shape the plates on the planking to match the required curve.  Its far from perfect but will do.  I think these areas are inherently limited given the thickness of the plates, I suspect using copper tape would allow a more scale appearance.
 
I drilled some small holes in the waterline batten to simulate nails and highlighted with pencil, these are not to scale but felt it gives it a little bit more functional relevance.
 

 
Et voila!  The pinkish hue of freshly cleaned copper reminded me on the AOTS Diana picture, I was very pleased with the lines that appear once the waterline is apparent. Obviously next step is to continue with the other side.... 
 

After completing work on the head, I wanted to do something less demanding (really, what wouldn't be ?}. I chose to do the two mortars. I used the kit's castings for the mortars, modified only by the addition of handles, as shown in AOTS. The handles were bent from wire. The mortar beds were also done with the kit parts, including eyebolts and the PE cap squares. I decided to show the mortars with one in a raised (firing) position and the other in a lowered (stowed) position.
 
I'm now moving on to start the remainder of the main deck detailing.
 
Bob

And in most cases the yards are lowered when there are no sails attached.
 
Jan

Hi Gif_Haise.  I have just had the same issue in my Endeavour build.  I rigged the blocks in-situ and intended leaving them unrove as suggested above.  However, when I posted my progress photos there were several queries (some p via PM) as to whether I was going to rig the clew, leech and buntlines.  After a little bit of research I determined there are two schools of thought on the matter - with and without lines (obvious )  It was pointed out that most of the contemporary models of the period showed the lines fitted with them rove through the blocks with a small overhand knot stopping it from pulling through the block.  I have used this approach leaving about 25mm of scale rope dangling.  In real life i believe they would have fitted/rove a spike/toggle through the line to prevent the line pulling through when the sails were unbent.  I will be posting some photos in my HM Bark Endeavour build log (Kits) of the finished lines later today/early tomorrow if you are interested in seeing what it looks like to assist your decision process.
 
Your choice though.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Historic docks and shipyards in Denmark.
 

The first in Denmark dry dock located on the waterfront in the Christianshavn.
Dock was constructed in 1739. (National Museum of Denmark)

Part of wooden dock structure.

The Royal Arsenal in Copenhagen (The Royal Naval Museum)



The Royal Navy base at Holmen Island.(The Royal Naval Museum)

Shipyard in Copenhagen (The Royal Naval Museum)



Ship on the slipway ready for launching (The Royal Naval Museum)

Mast crane at Holmen Island
 
Tadeusz

I have a couple of pics of Prince, the first is the hull structure before planking:
 

 
And this is Prince waiting for the new decoration:
 

OH MY GOD! That Prince is more beautiful than I dared to dream! 
 
OK Chris, you can go take another break from MSW now. I want you working on bringing that thing to market as soon as possible!!! 

Frames have a pretty smooth curves, maybe bandsaw is good enough? Especially if the blade is narrow.
I use Proxxon band saw, and it is perfect for frames. Never needed any scroll saw.

Thank you for your input gentlemen.
 
Dave

Julie Mo,
 
The binding problem is being caused by exactly the reason you have described. To avoid this, you can either add a degree of back taper to your fence (ie move the back of the fence slightly away from the blade), or add a "half fence" to the leading side (a fence that finishes just before the middle of the saw blade). This will give the cut portion of the strip space without binding against the blade.

Thank you for your input gentlemen.
 
Dave