Jump to content

Canute

NRG Member
  • Posts

    5,826
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Canute

  1. They've been in use in model railroading for several years, automating track control and signaling. We used it to automate a display layout in one of our local museums. It started the train by blowing the whistle twice, ringing the bell and moving out. Did one lap around the room, doing appropriate whistle calls as required by railroad operating rules. I think the scripts these run are written in C++. And we've also used an arduino board.
  2. Mobbsie, it all looks great. I aspire to be able to do this kind of work someday. Thanks for sharing.
  3. Jerry, that did. I laughed when I saw Kilroy. There are some plastic model railroad window parts from Tichy and GrandtLine that might work for you. They're finely cast parts. Since they're plastic, you may be able to skew them a bit to fit your window spaces.
  4. S.S Atlantus (sp) off the west side of Cape May, NJ off Sunset Beach. It 's a concrete ship. Can't copy photos, but you can see pix on Google Earth, search Sunset Beach, NJ.
  5. I would put the filler on the bare wood, sand it to your degree of smooth, recheck the filler, then prime the surface. A light sanding with fine grit paper or very fine steel wool and you should be good for your paint. Your primer color should be white or light gray if you plan on painting yellows. These colors are more translucent and you'd need more coats of paint to get the color right. Not good with some acrylics, especially if you're brush painting.
  6. Jonny, dunk the brass in vinegar. It's a weak acid and will remove the oils. The blackening agent may need diluting to work properly. Read the bottle. Good luck.
  7. Congrats to the Admiral and you. I think you'll be happier with brass barrels, though you'll need to blacken them somehow. The chemical way lets the details show better than paint, but the chemicals require a couple of steps. There are a couple of logs explaining the process here.
  8. The resin plug issues are pretty typical for most resin cast kits. The molds are soft and rubbery, so the dimensions can vary by small fractions. Every rolling stock kit I've ever worked on had a lot of cleanup, truing and squaring. Check against accurate plans, said the novice to the masters. Request permission to watch one of the masters.
  9. Mobbsie, it's looking great! Very nice joinery and finish. And glad to see how you've organized your work documents in ring binders; I've done that for years and most modelers around here think I'm OCD or just anal.
  10. Matt, I'm sure between your design ideas and the Nuts Bros skills, those carronades will be primo! Keep it up.
  11. Cap'n Steve, that's one of those unwanted thoughts forever seared into my brain. Maybe some rum will wash it away... need a number for the Nutz Brothers.
  12. Good call by that parrot... oops, cockatoo.The shaping and finishing of the cap rail look great! Looks like that aft pivot gun/caronnade will have a good field of fire. My compliments to the Nutz crew.
  13. Your Mk XVII stern pieces look sufficiently "sturdy" compared to the Mk II "stiletto" look. Much more appropriate for a man o' war. Maybe if you do a yacht some day....
  14. You may want to lay your making tapes on a clean metal or glass surface and cut it with your sharp knife and a metal straight edge. The flat surface with take some of the tackiness off your tape and the fresh cut tape edge is way crisper than the factory cut edge. And like grsjax said, seal the edge.
  15. Matt, love the patterning and choice of wood colors. Good work. My compliments to Woodie and his crew(s). Dare you Splice the Mainbrace?
×
×
  • Create New...