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Canute

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Well done, Grant! All nicely done, especially the metalwork.
  2. Kurt, I have soldered wire to rail with a resistance unit, but I'd be leery of doing it on a plastic hull. If you screw up on the ties, you can hide the boo-boo under the ballast. On the side of a Connie model, well...... Recommend removing it, if you can.
  3. I've used the steel wool/vinegar solution fr years to weather wood. Very handy and safe. Works well on basswood; pretty even stain. Not tried on fruit woods.
  4. Very nice, Mark. Now, you may want to add a Hurst..... .wait a minute, we're talking about light speed? May the Force be with you. Have fun and be safe.
  5. Cathead, no, it's not. I just don't fly in straight lines for longer than a few seconds and I keep the speed high. It will take a golden BB to hit me. :D I do enjoy your build; that time period had a lot of experimentation and one off designs. I've been a student of the classes and operations of both brown water navies for years. The steamboats were a part of all that.
  6. Cathead, I am a spastic typing on a tablet. Sorry bout that.
  7. Gabe, if you absolutely, positively have to have it for a graduation presentation, build it out of the box. The fittings and deck furniture are different enough from the the 18th-19th Century boats you've worked on that you may want a little extra time to do up the blocks, etc. For reference, I have an AL La Nina in the stash; it's a 2 masted lanteen rig. The blocks are somewhat different. Rearranging the forecastle will eat up time. See Moonbug's build: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4923-santa-maria-by-moonbug-artesania-latina-bashed-completed/?hl=%2Bsanta+%2Bmaria+%2Bmoonbug He did bash the stern, but I don't think he did it all in 6 months. It's ultimately your decision. If it bothers you too much, get another kit and do it up right. After the graduation party. :D
  8. Welcome to the north side of 40-ish, OC. Or as some say, too many birthdays (TMB).
  9. Thanks for all the comments and likes, folks. I expected to dive back in but my sinuses said "No,Sir" since Christmas. I am bummed. I'm planning to do some bends with the hair dryer, ala the Maestro's technique. I may see if the Admiral has an unused curling iron, too.
  10. Nice 4 pound guns you've cranked out. I am in awe of your "painting with wood."
  11. It's an Apple "Feature". Nowhere near as many as Microsoft, but...
  12. Paul, I did it after. It's easier if you do it before hand, but it's a recoverable boo-boo. It's a little easier if the stem wood is laying flat.
  13. Paul, I did, but it was a light sanding to knock the edges off a few frames. A wee bit of twisting, mostly. And I sanded those vertically, so I wouldn't knock any more off. Line off the stem against the drawing to ensue you keep the strake ends lined up in the rabbet. I copied the plan onto some card and cut it up to get right in that the area. And I cut a card template to shape the stem, too. Fun, huh?
  14. Paul, I faired the bulkheads after gluing to the false keel. I took a batten and ran it bow to stern. Some didn't need much sanding; the bow and stern needed more work. Patience is vital.
  15. Not at all, Paul. I grew up not far from Cresskil; over in Lodi. I'm getting back into the wood side again. The card boat is on hold until I can make smoother circular cuts in the cardstock. I can't smooth it as much as I'd like. You should also look at the builds by Matt (Squirrel Whisperer), Captain Steve and Mario. Good work on those.
  16. Keith, they seem to have done a better job in recovering parts of USS Monitor and working diligently to preserve what they've brought up already. Same for CSS Hunley. Some other wrecks, like CSS Neuse, weren't so lucky, either. The perils of well meaning amateurs.
  17. Good recovery, Sal. Merry Christmas to you and the family.
  18. Gabe, the only thing I could think of for the gluing is to rough up or scuff the contact areas with some fine sand paper. Increase the bonding surfaces on a micro level. I'm not familiar with your glue brand, but the Titebond and Elmer's yellow glues I use seem to bond and hold quite well. The wood will break before the Titebond does.
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