ccoyle

Introduction Welcome to yet another build log for a non-wooden, non-ship model! This build is inspired by a discussion that was had in my A6M5a build log. Fellow MSW member Craig (CDW) shared that his only attempt at card modeling was "a disaster," in his words, so I suggested he take a look at WAK's skill level 2 kits and offered to build one along with him, whichever one he wanted. He took me up on the offer and chose the SBLim-2A, so that's how the subject of the build was selected. Richard (Richard44) has also expressed an interest in building this kit (click HERE to see Richard's build) -- let's see if we can get any others on board, maybe? BTW, except for a very simple, free, downloadable, flyable MiG-15 glider I built many years ago, this will be only the second jet I have ever built in card. 😮 The Subject The SBLim-2A is a Polish, license built, two-seat reconnaissance variant of the MiG-15, built by WSK-Mielic in the 1950s. It's actually a conversion of a conversion. Originally, 227 Lim-1 (Licencyjny myśliwiec - licensed fighter aircraft) were built; some of these were later converted to SBLim-1 two-seat trainers (equivalent to the MiG-15 UTI), and some of those were later converted to the SBLim-2A. Confusing, right? The Kit The kit, representing an aircraft wearing the 1993 livery of the 7th Naval Special Aviation Regiment, is designed by Lech Kołodziejski, a respected designer who has published his own designs under the brand name CardPlane. I have built five of Lech's CardPlane kits (see the finished non-ship models section). Lech's CardPlane offerings were all models of either prototype aircraft or planes that entered into very limited service. His designs published by WAK have been more widely recognizable aircraft. Some of his recent efforts, including this one, have been collaborations with graphic artist Marcin Dworzecki, whose work is second to none in the hobby. As you can see, I purchased the available molded canopy and laser-cut frames. A quick pitch here for WAK. They have become one of my favorite publishers and a first-choice vendor. They offer a large selection of kits and always process orders promptly, package them securely, and offer very reasonable shipping rates compared to other vendors. If you shop there, tell them I sent you! The kit is designed with amateur builders in mind, and it shows. In this next image you can see, for instance, that only very rudimentary cockpit elements are included. Stuff on the side walls is printed rather than being separate parts. There are likewise no separate control surfaces nor landing gear bays. (EDIT: Upon further inspection, I discovered that optional wheel well parts are included.) Lech draws pretty easy to follow diagrams. Horrible white balance in this shot -- sorry! There's a lovely three-view. Finally, as a huge bonus, but not shown here, the kit includes instructions in English. The Purpose and Guiding Philosophy of This Build We all know that when it comes to beginners and wooden ship models, there is such a thing as "too much model." This is certainly true for card models as well. If you have never built a card model before and decide to start with Halinski's Bf-110G-4/R8, you will fail miserably (heck, even I'm not ready for that one). The WAK Skill Level 2 kits are a good compromise between detail and ease of construction. At least I hope that will prove to be the case, because I haven't built one yet -- but I trust Lech. I have titled this as a semi-tutorial, because it is not my intention here to describe every necessary tool and basic technique for building a card model; if you need that kind of help, you can find it in our Torpedoboat V-108 tutorial. So I will not, for example, demonstrate how to fold a part or roll a tube, but I will try to include as much detail as is necessary to get a novice builder through this project. And speaking of 'novice,' I will also try to make this build as much as possible an "out-of-box" project -- except there is no box, of course. So, join us on this adventure, won't you? And if you're feeling particularly bold, get the kit from WAK and jump in! Come over to the Dark Side --er, I mean, the "wonderful world of card models"! Cheers!

The usual robust framing in a Halinski kit, this time for the aft fuselage. The tail wheel well includes a piece with the interior color. And now for a bit of news: This build will be going on a temporary hiatus. I know I already have another kit on hiatus for this build, so I guess that makes this a hiatus²? 🤔 Anyways, I will be building WAK's SBLim-2A, which shouldn't take too long to build (hopefully). A build log will be created for that shortly. Cheers!

Well done, Pfälzer!

A shame they don't offer stuff in 1/250. I have a card kit of SMS Undine, and of course she has many of the same fittings.

Man, based on my very limited experience with 3D-printed parts, that looks like a potential nightmare of breakages. 😬

That's a fine-looking model, Michael -- congratulations!

Since all of Chris' designs are in 1/64 scale, you will run into the same issue -- and more often. You may need to look into doing kits in 1/32, 1/24, or even larger. You should take a look at Chesapeake Light Craft's model kits -- they are small craft, but done in large scales, e.g., 1/8 scale.

Yep, you are going to have to "earn it!" (also from the old Smith-Barney ads).

Yep, this has always surprised me a bit, since the AJ Fisher company has been around for a very long time -- obviously, somebody has been building their kits! I'm really looking forward to seeing how this one comes together. Curious about the scale, though -- you said 1/72 scale, but the plans and parts listing both say 3/16", which is 1/64. BTW, here's a photo of the Lucia A Simpson at the Lake Superior Marine Museum to inspire you. She's a lovely vessel.

The forward fuselage has been added. This cylindrical section was quite a booger to shape properly. You can see there is a small gap along the left-hand white part labeled 'WPS' -- fortunately, that stands for "cut out after gluing," and that is where the machine gun channels will be added, so the gap will magically disappear. Forward of this (which comes later in the build) will be interesting, because next there is a bulkhead that supports the cowl, and the kit's paper exhaust pipes are supposed to be glued directly to this bulkhead; the 3D-printed pipes are longer and should ideally pass through this bulkhead and attach to the cylinder heads. I will need to do a lot of thinking about how to make that assembly work. The next assembly according to the parts numbering is the aft-most fuselage section where the tail wheel well is located -- the fuselage is thus supposed to be built back-to-front. Not sure why that is, but I will probably build up all the sections first just to play it safe, then assemble them together in the correct order. First up is the section right behind the cockpit. Right now I am letting everything set after gluing the ring together and soaking the bulkhead in thin CA. I've punched a couple of holes into the bulkhead so I can manipulate it with round-nose pliers. Cheers!

Nice work, Rob!

I keep telling myself I'm going to have to build one of your kits before I die. Maybe this is the one? 😮

WARNING! Do not try to read your brand-new copy of the Ship Modeler's Handbook after slathering your chapped hands with Trader Joe's Head to Toe balm -- apparently it acts as a solvent on the magazine's inks. Ask me how I know! 😬 Content-wise, the magazine itself is a treat!

Welcome aboard! Over the years, I've heard that a lot of watchmaking tools make great modeling tools.

We have seen the Louise version of this kit successfully completed (see here for one example). It makes a striking model.

I don't think it's too much of a stretch to say that this is shaping up into one of the finest Viking longships we've seen being modeled here.

I'm not seeing it. 🤔

The wing and fuselage have been joined, and the first of the two wing fillets has been added. There's a bit of a goof on the fillet where I had to make a repair after inadvertently rubbing some of the printed color off the part. I'm going to say that this is where some Japanese technicians applied Bondo on the original aircraft. In the meantime, look what came in the mail! WAK's 1/100 Brig Badger designed by our friend Tomek of Seahorse models. A 2-for-1 special edition from Shipyard of a Swedish Yacht and the schooner Berbice. And the very odd US Navy one-off USS Vesuvius armed with "dynamite guns." This one is from Orel. I purchased these kits from a very special acquaintance of mine, David Okamura. David and I were members together of the Ship Modelers Association many moons ago, and he's the guy who introduced me to the amazing world of card modeling, so you can blame him for all of the card subjects I've dropped here at the forum. Cheers!

That's a beautiful model! And the fleet is getting mighty impressive!

I have no experience with AL kits, so I can't speak to the suitability of their kits aimed at beginners. I would stay away from the JS Elcano as a first model, though, as that is a pretty complex subject at any skill level.

I have learned the hard way that age is a factor in CA glue quality (the glue's age, not the modeler's age!) regardless of whether the glue still looks good in its bottle. I have taken to writing the date-of-purchase on the bottles I buy and then tossing them out when they are a year old. Saving a few bucks is just not worth the hassle of using glue that won't set properly.

Did we miss the story of why there is a chicken drawn on the false deck?

Nicely done!

Wheel well seams finished and wingtips added.

Before skinning the wings, the landing gear bays must first be added. Then the main skin is added. I don't glue the entire thing at once -- I tack the center section first to get everything aligned, then work around each half a bit at a time. The fit has been super tight, but good. You don't get to see the bottom yet, because I still need to do the seams around the gear bays. Cheers!