ccoyle

And we finally come to an end of this project. Discovery is now orbiting the giant Planet Jupiter








I hope you have enjoyed that project.
 
Yves
 

The wake looks pretty convincing to my eye.

Your models have a lot of charm, Javier.

Thank you for your comments.
I have already painted the hull 

Yep, it's called drag.

None of us were! Hard to believe that was seven years ago now. As to the question about drag, I don't know the answer, but I bet that Chappelle discussed it in either Baltimore Clippers or Search for Speed Under Sail.

I feel stupid now,the planks I'd used were indeed first planking strips which are 0.5mm thicker than the decking planks and that coupled with the thin card I'd used as backing was enough to throw it off kilter.
Thanks for your keen eye CC you've at least spared my blushes with Caldercraft.🥺

Wow. I can remember when I built this kit (twenty years ago now) that I had some variation in the cannon heights relative to the bulwarks, but at least all of them pointed through the gunports. You've got quite a discrepancy there, and I'm not sure how that might have happened. It does look like you applied the pattern strips at the correct height, i.e. level with the tops of the bulkhead extensions.
 
Come to think of it, though, your deck planks look overly thick. Are you using the correct strips? Deck strips are usually pretty thin. Those look like they may be first planking strips?

Well, maybe I'm not finished.  I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton)  and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
 
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
 


Scott
 

Thank you Michael 🙂
 
Post 72
 
Time for a general tidy-up
 
Over the past few days I have been attending to sorting out some of the rigging jobs and tidying up lines.

4507
The running backstay tackles have been completed with hooks to attach to the iron hull plates.

4513
The Stay and Preventer stay lanyards are now in place.
 
 
Topsail Yard
 
In addition to the centre tye block, standing clew line blocks are required.
 

4514
The given 3mm blocks indicated in the kit instructions are about right for size at scale.
 
The kit shows a truss to secure the yard to the mast. Apart from the historical evidence indicating to the contrary, such a fitting would need to be quite slack to allow movement of the yard.
 
On a model however, it would help stabilise the yard and make rigging easier.
I fitted the halyard tackle with a 0.20mm line running down to the deck to belay on a port side mast cleat.
 

4517
At the yard arms are the two T’gallant sheet blocks also 3mm.
Secured around the Topmast head above the Topsail yard are blocks in a span for the T’gallant sheet falls.
 
The Alert Book once again has contrary information; drawing H6 shows blocks in a span, whereas Drawings H9 and H22/1 (close detail) indicates thimbles in a span.

4519
It looks to me that the Hawke model has thimbles so I will go with those.
It is easier to do this before the mast cap is put into place, that way the span can be formed off model and then slipped over the masthead.
 
Completing the T’gallant mast and Yard
 
 

04531
A sheave has been added to the mast for the yard halyard and a truck made for the top.
The mast can now be set in place. It shouldn’t be necessary to glue either mast or cap if the fit is correct.
 
T’Gallant Yard
This is a simple affair which apart from the central eye spliced tye has no other fittings before the yard is raised.
The only controlling lines are the Bowlines running forward to the Bowsprit end which will hold it square but there are no aft running lines to counter the forward pull.
 
Without the benefit of trusses and pins, stabilising the yards becomes a delicate balancing act.
 

04516
The first thing to fix are the topsail sheets and clews. Attaching the sheets holds the spread-sail yard down whilst the clews pull the topsail yard down and counter the pull of the sheets on the spread-sail yard.
 
Even at this stage the yards are held square to the mast, but the later addition of braces and bowlines will secure any lateral movement.
 
The T’gallant yard is the most difficult yard to stabilise.
I may have to resort to a small pin to hold it against the mast to get the required tension on the Bowlines.
 
Boom sheet
So, I can finally set the Boom topping lift I now need to attend to the boom sheet tackle, to counter the pull of the lift.
 

04504
For this I am using 4mm double and single blocks coupled with 0.45mm line for the tackle falls.
 
The shroud cleats have now been attached.
 

04510
Tricky little beggars to get in place inside the shrouds, I hold them in place with pva and then add the lashing.
 

04535
Before I make any permanent attachments to the cleats I need to attend to the rattlin’ down otherwise I will be working around lines running inside the shrouds which is not ideal.
 

04524(2)

04526(2)
Starting to look a little more ship shape now, but there’s still a way to go.
 
B.E.
21/02/2020
 

Cut that last post short, the wife was leaving for work and I had to escort her to the car.
Did it once , so now it's my job 😀.
 
Let's see, cutting the scuppers now.

 

Then it's on to adding the next planking, also needed to cut the top of the scuppers.

 

 
A look from the bow ..... as planking continues,
Notice the first planking I cut out an area for the Stem to mount.
There was some controversy on whether this was the right way ..... right or wrong it's done now.
 
.... the stern .

 
Fast forward to the finished hull planking.
 

 


I'll need to apply wood filler and sand like crazy.
 
I wonder if I should put the filler on the interior of the hull.
In the pic above you can see a gap between the planks.
Since this is a 2 plank hull, does that mean the interior also gets doubled plank?
Any thoughts on this?
 
That's all for now.

Just over 1200 knots later, the Bounty ratlines are all done. 

So the first planking has been done and considering it's my first ever I'm relatively pleased with it.Pics show before and after filler and the keel being fitted.

Not perfect by any stretch of the imagination

Filler applied but not rubbed down
 

Now partially sanded and keel on.The problem I have now is how to sort out the gun ports, Iv'e mocked up a sample of decking for the cannon to stand on and only the first ports on both sides allow the cannon through (the bulwarks are level with the bulkhead extensions) With the other gun ports the top of the cannon is level with top of the bulwark so I have no way of filing the opening  any higher. Is it a case of planking higher than the bulwark so I can open up the gun port  ( that's not going to look good from the inside ) or is the another solution?
 
Thanks   Chris

Yesterday I took the plunge and opened up the admirals’ entries. This is where I’m varying slightly from Dafi’s mod, because the aperture looked too long (aesthetically) after I’d cut it so I’ve lowered the top a little just to look ‘right’ for me, and will probably also raise the bottom slightly so that the side step is in line with this. I bought the Amati entry ports back in 2013 and at this point plan to use them, rather than buy Dafi’s (which weren’t available then) but the engineer in me really doesn’t believe super-glueing metal to plastic is going to work that well! Although I’ve necessarily cleared off 3 or 4 of the side steps on each side to make room for the hood, I’m not yet decided whether to go the whole hog and replace them all with Dafi’s sidesteps or just do my own thing and leave most in place. This is what I meant when I said I’m more interested in the overall aesthetic than accuracy, as right now it feels like cleaning off all the steps is one more thing (no doubt several evenings) until I can start glueing the model together. It does get quite boring staring at two hull halves day after day, not least because there are things that I don’t think I can move on to until I have the decks in place, like the stern and bow section proper! Having said that, I probably will buy some of Dafi’s parts as these do lift the model significantly.
 
The photo on the right is a mini-saw I knocked up to cut out these ports. I mention it because I spent ages debating whether it was worth spending £5 on a ready-made item but then, in a rare moment of insight, thought of using a junior hacksaw blade. So, I just cut a section of that and it's fits perfectly in the pin vice. It even cuts to the line quite nicely.
 
 

20th February 2020
I started this build almost exactly 7 years ago (February 2013) but parked it after perhaps 2 or 3 months for a variety of reasons. Every once in a while I’d half-heartedly take another look but, with no end of other calls on my time – a house renovation, a large garden, a family – it was always easier to justify further procrastination. I finally got going again this January 2020 and am enjoying it immensely this time. One of the reasons I parked it, to be honest, was demoralisation - I hadn’t really appreciated what building a 1:100 Victory would entail and there are some very tedious, repetitive tasks from the outset. I think I was probably expecting it to be something like building planes as a child just with more and different parts. Also, the poor Heller instructions had me scouring the web straight away and landing on Pete Coleman’s site, which was both a blessing and a bane. For those who didn’t ever see it, it was like this site, full of examples of truly extraordinary skill and craftsmanship. The trouble was, having seen what I should do, I couldn’t possibly just whack this together straight out of the box, as intended, and that meant hours and hours on small modifications lay ahead. However, it was always parked, not abandoned!
 
I should say from the outset that this is my first go at high quality model-making. Other than helping my progeny with the odd bit of model-based homework I haven’t touched a model kit in perhaps 45 years. I chose the Victory for sentimental reasons, inspired by the books of Patrick O'Brian, not realising that this is probably the Everest of plastic sailing ship models. In fact the intention was that this would be the only kit I’d ever build, it was a project for one wet and miserable winter rather than a hobby. Who knows, that may change by the time I’ve finished the Victory (assuming I ever do).
So, the object of this build log is two-fold; it’s partly to share my learning with anyone else in the same position, novice’s taking on this huge challenge; and partly to seek advice, as I go along, from the many experienced, expert modellers on this forum.
 
It may help if I say what I’m aiming for. I’m not too bothered about true historical or nautical accuracy, just want a really nice looking ship at the end of the day. I’m unlikely to spend much if any time adding features below decks that can’t be seen, but I am making the ‘usual’ modifications like hull thickening, the admirals’ entry and altered side steps. It almost goes without saying that I’m constantly looking at the fantastic work of Dafi, Foxy, Bishophobbies and a few others, though I’m expecting my results to be more modest.
 
That's enough of the intro - in a moment I'll start adding build content.

Continue with work on cannons... started with making bunch of eyebolts that will be replacing those included in the kit.
 
The kit provided is above and home-made is at the bottom.

The home-made appears to be more realistic than eyebolts supplied in kit. So, 12 cannons x 2 eyebolts, 24 plus few extra to make.
 
The process is very simple. Cut the wire to appr 10mm in length, twist around 0.7mm drill bit and blacken them all.
 


The wire i was using:
 


The wire was lightly sanded to remove the protection and to easy blackening process.
 
Little eyebolts after blackening process.
 

Happy modeling.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Welcome aboard! I built model rockets back in my youth. After each successful launch, I would paint a ring around the rocket's nose. The most rings any rocket ever received was five -- usually they met some sad (but often memorable) end before then.
 
Cheers!

Beautiful Mike!  Your planking work is some of the nicest I have ever seen
 
Bill

It was seven months ago that I first started to plank the hull below the wales. I'm happy to say that it is now all done. The last few days were spent sanding out the hull planking. I find that I can see dips, rises and other types of fluctuations better when the lights are off and I just use the daylight coming through the window. Sounds crazy, but it really accentuates things better than my indoor lighting. I added the stern post as well. No finish has been applied though that will be done as soon as I re-paint any scuffed areas on the wales and cleanup the keel and knee with a light sanding.
 

Mike

Well, the afternoon matinee' went off with only one AWOL - the YOUNG GUY (late 40s) was a no-show (says "I forgot it was Thursday!!!"). Of course, ALL the rest of us 60's/70's, 80's showed up - indicative of the younger generation who can't quite figure out what time it is....sigh! Oh well, HIS LOSS!!!
 
We discussed the movie afterwards as we watched the snow coming down and came to these conclusions:
     1) The movie, while short on naval action, was really good on story, content, and settings.
     2) We didn't mind the Norwegian language, only that the subtitling was in such small type - it made it hard to read.
     3) Being that of the 4 viewing today (3 vets, 1 civilian) none of us was fully aware of Norway's involvement in WWII, we thought that it portrayed the events in a very convincing manner,              the acting was well done, scenes very time period sensitive, and overall - a AAA rating!!!
     4) We all were quite surprised with The King's Choice and I guess had we been in his shoes would have probably done exactly as he did in similar circumstances.
 
Due to the snowfall and one participant having to cross the river to get home, we decided to skip the test and all accept an A- for today's activities. Mr. AWOL is now scheduled for keel-hauling, 25 lashes at the main mast, and shunning. 
 
 
 

Hi my name is Borden
I have worked as a professional photographer, artist and also I am a journeyman carpenter.
Have built many models plastic, metal and wood the current one is a "big step up for me".
Having a lot of fun reading on this sight, planning the project, doing museum research, going to ship wrecks and getting new tools to make success a reality.  
Turns out do not need some of the tools thought would be good, but have learned I do need others that are not in my kit.
My carpentry tools and photographic equipment will get some use when the project is ready to progress past the acquisition stage.
Hello from Ontario, Canada

Back to the work bench. Finished installing the rub rails to the boat. Next is to start painting the hull and get a stand built.

 

Welcome aboard! I built model rockets back in my youth. After each successful launch, I would paint a ring around the rocket's nose. The most rings any rocket ever received was five -- usually they met some sad (but often memorable) end before then.
 
Cheers!

Well bit the bullet and finished the faring...what a pita, the kit only has 9 main bulkheads and 5 had issues, 4 of those had an easy additional 1/8 inch that needed removed.  That would be chore enough but with the old plywood any amount of cross sanding caused a lot of delam

tried gluing some of the worst of it back

you can see how much excess there was on frames 4&5 in the pic above...that was typical, but the deed is done. but boy is she UGLY

#3 still needs tweaked toward the keel, you can see here I whacked off the timber heads, they sucked anyway, new ones have been made,

my plan is to plank the deck then attach the new timberheads with pins in predrilled holes.  It's a technique I've used on previous builds and it works ok.
 
I took some time and clear coated the paneling and deck for the hatchway and painted out the ladder in it's finished color,
after clear is applied the orange wood looks like fir to me...hard as old fir too!

Well that's it for today...thanks for the likes and following along

I came across this build and it was deja ju all over again! The picture on the kit box and other details strongly resemble a kit I bought back in 1969 in Long Beach, California. It was called the Brigg Freya um 1840, and was supposed to be a Rhine River brig. There was no manufacturer's name on the box or the single sheet plans, but it was made in West Germany. It was supposed to be 1:100 scale.

Here is a picture of the kit box. Notice the resemblance of the model photo and the logo on the box? This is the second plank-on-bulkhead kit that I have built. There were quite a few kits that were more impressive, but I picked this one because it was cheap, about $30 as I recall, and I was living on an Ensign's pay of $334/month.

Here is a photo of the finished model. I think I built it in 1972-74. Right after I bought the kit I was shipped out to WESTPAC and spent the next two and a quarter years pumping bullets into the jungles of North and South Vietnam. A few months after I got back I started work on the kit. It had extremely tall masts!

The horizontal bowsprit was very unusual - not something you would see on a deep sea ship. That and other details look a lot like the kit you are building.

The deck plan is a bit different. I don't remember much about building it, but I took a lot of time making the fiddly bits. The first ship I was on was a small minesweeper with wooden decks. We recaulked the decks and I saved some of the tar. I think that is what I used for the grout between the deck planks on this model!

The kit had a crummy pot metal boat. I built a new one plank-on-frame using HO scale railroad ties for the planks. It also had the crummy pot metal "blocks" that are shown in one of your photos. I used wooden blocks that I got somewhere.
 
Your kit isn't exactly the same as this one, but it looks a lot like Freya and apparently was produced by the same company. The Freya hull was 14" long along the top rail. How does this compare to your kit? I thought you might find this interesting.
 
There was some discussion earlier about a Baltimore clipper. The Freya hull has very little resemblance to the Chesapeke topsail schooners. They had a lot of drag (deeper at the stern than the bow), and were broadest just aft of the foremast (I am currently working on a Baltimore clipper).