ccoyle

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
The following pictures document the completion of hull and deck outfit.  Future posts will address planning, fabrication, rigging setup, and installation of masts, spars, standing and running rigging.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Well, the upper conning tower is complete - with the exception of the (2) 35' Whip Antenna that will be added at a later time to the angled bracket at the 011 Level. While the ULQ-6 ECM framework, etc. is not perfect, it will have to suffice until I can re-design a CAD file for making a PE brass sheet of uniform parts that will replace the current ones. This would be in order to make the framework more consistant in width, etc.
 

 
Next construction will be the 08 Level Open Conn. Station and adjoinning lower conning tower/fwd. stack.
 
 
Hank

Well it happened, I found the box containing the Buzzards Bay , I was begining to think that I would never see the box again . I unpacked all the frames and the keel and dry fit all the frames, There are 3 frames that I will replace with new ones and square everything up and start building. Here are the results 

Welcome,
 
Some more deckhouse pictures.  Key points include:
 
>>> Deck house bulkheads were glued to together and to their respective coamings using the deck cutout to ensure squareness
>>> Deck beams were fitted
>>> Note windlass pump handles stowed on the forward house front
>>> Note that coamings will not be glued to the hull until all adjacent outfit has been fitted
>>> Note this construction sequence gives a clean paint line between the house sides and coamings
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is after deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Binacle redesigned based on contemporary ship model plans (original was undersized for 3/16" scale)
>>> Binacle was sheathed with walnut veneer over a solid block 
>>> Ships bell HO scale fitting from Cale Scale
>>> Main sheet block fitted to waterway (to avoid access issues)
>>> Steering enclosure built up from laminated panels, install in coaming, and glued in place
>>> Grating panels fitted for steering station
>>> Mooring bitts built up from laminated stripwood and doweled in place
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Hi everyone
 
Well, tonight I finished building the bent frames! It's a tedious job, but the effect is worth it in the end. At least now, Ingomar's hull finally looks like it's taking shape.
 
What's even more important is the fact that I was able to remove the hull from the building jig and build a working stand for her to sit upright in. The hull looks a bit rough around the sheer line, but that's only because it requires trimmimg, sanding etc.
 
The next job will be to do the planking and then cut out the sides of the hull so that the interior accommodation can be viewed. Long way to go, no doubt.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.

Quick update.
 
Varnished the deck twice and now have a lovely hue to the maple decking. Also added the bulwark rails. The rear piece wouldn't fit properly, so I cut a new piece from the sprue that was slightly wider and gave a better fit. Finished off the rails with black paint.
 
The rails give a great final look to the hull now. Now onto adding fixtures and fittings.....

I've been an advocate of penciled panel lines and glued boltropes for years.  Properly sewn sails certainly don't look bad on a model, but the actual-size sitching of real sails can't be duplicated in the scales we work at, and besides such lines are practically invisible at scale viewing distances.
 
Cheers!

The brigantine Newsboy was designed by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsea, MA (designer of the very successful pilot schooners Dancing Feather, Hesper, and Phantom) for owners Dabney & Cunningham of Boston.  Newsboy was built at the Joshua C. Adams and Elisha Brown shipyard in Owl’s Head, ME where she was launched in June, 1854.  She had a length of 111 feet, beam of 27 feet, depth of 12 feet, and tonnage of 290 tons.  While described as a brigantine, the rig is more accurately described as a hermaphrodite brig because there were no square sails on the main mast.
 
The Newsboy was engaged in the triangular trade: carrying lumber and manufactured goods from New England to the Mediterranean; transporting wine, oil, and fruits to the West Indies; and returning to New England with rum, molasses, and sugar.  The Monthly Nautical Magazine said “having a reputation for speed, by wringing reluctant laurels from her competitors who have chanced to fall in company with her at sea….she does her designers no discredit…her log will speak for itself”.
 
The model is built to a scale of 3/16” to the foot (1:64) based on an old Model Shipways solid hull kit and plans by George F. Campbell.  The model is plank on solid construction, with built up bulwarks, planked decks and topsides, coppered bottom, and scratch built deck furniture/fittings.  Limited commercial fittings will be utilized where appropriate, and the rigging will be proportional linen line with Warner Woods’ blocks.  The Brigantine Newsboy is my 4th wooden ship model and the 2nd in my series of mid 1800’s American merchant sailing ship models.
 
As time permits, I will attempt to post the high points of my previous MSW Build Log.
 
Peter Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Hi Don and welcome to my build log.
 
I continued my work on the keel.  I first glued some black paper on the keel. 
 

 
Afterwards I glued the different pieces to each other.
 


 
I just did the stem, as I’ve noticed the pieces at the stern were not long enough.  There’s a gap between them and the profile former. 
 

 
Back to the saw to fabricate new pieces.
 
There's also a small gap at the sterm but since that part will dissapear when the planking will be done, i'll just glue a small filler piece between them.
 

 
For the curved piece of the keel, I made a simple jig to keep enough pressure on the parts till the glue dries and to make sure, the pieces are flat to each other.
 

 
An overview of the whole keel and the profile former with the stern pieces and profile former not yet glued to each other.
 

 
Now I was wondering if have not made a mistake here.  I used black paper to simulate the caulking, but are those pieces really supposed to have caulking between them?  

Well, after a month of making a second Foremast/Radars from scratch (this time mainly brass, not styrene) I've got it almost complete and mated to the conning tower. A few items left to add but couldn't do that until the mast was in place. the lower foremast yardarm will be added at a later date in order to keep from messing it up (which I have a tendency to do these days  )
 
Next week I'll be back on the ULQ-6 ECM antenna construction which goes on either side of the upper conning tower "boxes". I've drawn that equipment in MicroStation so I have a fairly reliable drawing to go by in cutting out the brass angles, etc. for the framework. It's fairly confusing to someone without knowledge of what it is and why it's there.
 
One item I will have to create from scratch is the after movie projection booth which is located centerline at Frame #180 just aft of the Tureet #3 gun barrels. This was not in existance in 1945, so the Trumpy kit does not include it. I've drawn it up in MicroStation from a few somewhat sketchy photos and drawings by Alan Chesley/Floating Drydock. This booth was added to all 4 IOWAs in the mid-'50s, but differs from ship to ship. My booth is depicted as of 1969 and I'm fairly confident that it is correctly represented with the exception of the after bulkhead mounted equipment - I'm still looking for additional sources of information.
 

 
Hank

Some very interesting craft available there.

Hi all. Recently, after finishing my miniature model of "Dorade" I started on my new model, a 1/192 scale model of the 54m long schooner "Ingomar". Built in 1903 and designed by Nathaniel Herreshoff, Ingomar was one of the fastest and most successful racing schooners of its day. Such is the beauty of this boat, that it has been recreated now by Graafships; the only problem being that the person funding the project, unfortunately ran out of money and only the hull has been built. The hull is currently for sale. Hopefully someone rich enough will buy the hull and complete the project; thereby creating a modern full size version of this beautiful ship. Any rich people out there?
 
Anyhow, back to my model! Given the small size of the hull (13 cms approx), I agonised about what sort of material the hull should be built from. Whatever I chose had to be structurally strong enough to be cut into small enough strips to simulate the frames, etc. Also, the fact that the full sized ship was steel framed, basically meant that I couldn't use wood. Much to my distaste, I reluctantly settled on plasticard to build the keel and hull! I've always shied away from plasticard, but this time, it was the only logical choice. I will paint the hull's frames and keel later to make it look like it authentic.
 
The hull will be built with as much of the internal accommodation as possible installed in the hull and visible through large cutaways of the hull and exposed deck beams.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos. More photos will follow as work progresses.

Hood is indeed one of Halinski's early releases.  The really top-shelf stuff we now take for granted from Halinski started rolling off the presses around 2002.

Hi Everyone,
 
I am pleased to say the my little Zeeschouw is now complete! It is always a thrill to complete a ship (boat) model and this little kit is no exception. It was a treat to build and after the Unicorn, a breeze.
 

 
I highly recommend this model to newcomers to the hobby. It might be hard to come by to those who do not live in Europe, but with the interwebby, anything is procureable.
 
For those who have asked me what my next model will be, I have the answer. It will be a Cutty Sark model, by none other than Einar Billing! I purchased this model third hand from Kip (aka Sawdust), who bought it from a former neighbour for some bottles of wine. It is an older kit (Kit 459 - Hull and Kit 565 - Fittings) with mahogany planking which must be replaced due to its age. I have always wanted to build a Cutty Sark since I started this hobby with the Mary Ann.
 
But spring and summer are beckoning, so I won't be starting that project anytime soon.
 
Thanks for following along and posting all your very kind words. I hope I have been able to give some of you a bit more inspiration in continuing with this wonderful hobby. I will post some more completed pictures in the Gallery.
 
Now if you'll excuse me, I have a beer to drink...
 
Peter

Build log part 4
 
 
 

White part above waterline only primered
 

bulleyes fitted, hull "riveted", plated and painted
 

tackle brackets for fastening the aft mast stays, soldered to the railing stanchions (through deck below
 

above the rectangular wooden window Frame there shall be fitted Ornament decors later on
 
 

model for making the clay-mould for the ornaments (intend to use low meting Point metal for that)
 

 
 

stair to 2nd passenger deck, swan neck vents, and fastening bracket rail for Front mast stays
 

anchor crane and bowpost flagstock
 

Progress well under way
 
 
 
 
Build log part 5 to follow....
 
 
Nils

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.

i have made a litle canot for my recouvrance and here is the results:
 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

Braces, sheets and tacks on lower yards will be installed last in order not to block access to the deck.
 
 
Next was the mighty main yard. First, the main sail was made similar to the mizzen top sail. Its size was reduced by about 30%. I need a little material to form a bulk in the middle of the furled sail and for such a large square sail this seemed about the necessary size. (The furled sail looks quite OK.)
 
The sail was bent to the yard and blocks for sheets and clues as well as clues and buntlines were attached. There will be 2 buntlines rigged according Lees. This means that only one buntline could be attached to the sail as it will lead through several blocks back to the sail as its own second buntline and can only be fixed with the yard mounted.
The buntline blocks on the yard were positioned wrongly (I put them up according the plans) and had to be shifted.
 
Then the sail was furled and now the yard brought to the mast. First a sling was put in place to hold the yard. Then it was held to the mast with the truss pendants (no parrel rope on this yard). The pendants lead towards the deck and are seized with simple falls via blocks to the riding bitts.
 
Now the jeers were installed and belayed to the main bitts. The clue lines were belayed on the riding bits. Finally the lifts were put up and the ends belayed – contrary to the plan, but according Lees- on the timber head near the first main mast shroud.
 
The belaying points according to the kits plans differ for several lines from those in Lees ‘Masting and Rigging...’ and I mainly followed Lees.
 
 

Main sail
 
 

Buntline attached in front of the sail. The legs through the outer buntline blocks can only be put in place with the yard on the mast.
 
 

Clew lines in place
 
 

Yard with sail furled provisionally put in place – looks OK
 
 

Thimble for the sling (in fact a spliced eye) and truss pendants put on the yard
 
 

Sling with its lanyard and the jeers
 
 

Belaying of jeers, falls of the truss pendants and clues (left to right)
 
 

The lifts are belayed at that timber head
 
 

Lifts in place

All the 18 carronades in place...
I've placed the additional couple of the cannons temporarily in front of the most anterior openings just to have a general idea..
My plan is to continue (and finish) with the tackling of the carronades & cannons and leave the deck fittings fixing (ladders, capstan, companionway, pumps) for later ...

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.

I can attest to the methods described by Alistair, as I also use brushing for large paint areas.  Especially what he said about not scrimping on brush quality -- they're one thing I have found that you DO get what you pay for.  Get good ones, treat them nice, and they'll serve you well for years.