ccoyle

I actually participated in an otter trawl -- once -- on board the research tug operated by the university I attended. Cooked up some of the catch in the galley, too.

Deadeye assemblies finished, and all the provisions are in the hold. I dipped the barrels in stain and highlighted the hoops using a graphite pencil for the smaller barrels and marker for the larger ones, then hand rubbed them with a cloth.

I’ve got the front piece in work and am getting ready to rough out the two pieces of floral design.
 
 I realized that those would probably be easier if made in two pieces.

A weekend update
 
No major dramas to report other than poor fitting problems as you will note with the upper deck modules - I probably will not attend to these given the multi colour nature of the paintwork. 
 
I may try some weathering
 
Really I just want to put to this to bed and move onto something else (i.e. a modern kit!)
 
One thing I did do was pre-drill all the decks ready for rigging - I will go into more detail when I reach the rigging stage

Here is my current 'ship' model - the Revell Harbour Tug  - this will be out of box build.
 
This is a very old kit - the mould has seen better days - tonnes of flash and very little fine detail - how far we have progressed!
 
I did find some history on these tugs sometime back when I first purchased the kit but for the life cannot locate it again. I believe they were built by /for the US Navy and some several hundred were built. There are photographs on the www of these still in service. 
 
 

 
Main paint work is a mixture of Tamiya & Mr Colour /  Levelling Thinner 50/50
 
Hand painting for fine details is generally Citadel with a some Tamiya /Retarder - the Citadel is superior to the Tamiya retarder method. Personally I do not recommend using Tamiya /Mr Colour for hand painting.
 
Weathering is through a pin wash - Tamiya Accent brown.
 
Glazed openings are with Deluxe Materials Glue and Glaze - I find this easier to use than the Microscale product as it comes with its won applicator.
 
I have progressed significantly - really its just a case of gluing he parts together.
 
The problem I find with these non naval ships is the multi coloured paint schemes - a lot needs to be painted before they are glued and then you run into issues when you glue the parts together and of course filling. 
 
So we have the classic two tone hull - I forego the white stripe - I tried and it was a disaster - too much bleed - Kurts recent article in the NRJ (Aug) will I am sure prove to be invaluable for future masking work.

 
Here are some close ups of the lower cabin showing some of the finer hand painting detail work with the Citadel paints. You should make out the pin wash as well
 
 

 

Here is the funnel - this was tricky with 3 different colours of stripes
 

And finally the upper cabin - this hasn't been weathered yet - some of the glazing on the larger openings leaves a bit to be desired.
 

Good evening everyone
 
Otter Boards continued
 
i went for the Flory Dark dirt, but a couple are in just grime, so i have a few options when it comes to putting everything in place
 
i read after last nights post, that the outside edges were sheathed in metal to prevent damage to the wood when being dragged on the seabed, 
 
having scored one side of the wood to represent planks and then stained it  i super glued the frame to it, then drilled holes though, turned it over, scored and stained then lined the other frame to the holes

to represent the metal sheathing i cut a thin piece of card, attached it all round and painted

 
now putting the bolts through and secure the heads on the opposite side

 
next will be the brackets which will be this weeks work

i not 100% sure where they fit, but here they are for tonight

 
 
 

EDIT: Currently spoken for.
 
I bought these three kits many moons ago but now that I've dabbled in wooden ships I severely doubt these will see the light of day. I started the Cromwell (and used too much glue) but the other two are still sealed. I always wanted to build a really nice plastic model but c'est la vie. Anyhow if anyone wants these kits I will gladly send them for the price of shipping; I'm more than willing to ship it internationally but I can't see how that would make financial sense. 
 

I recently built a Woody Joe kit. The laser cutting was the best I’ve seen. Although it was an easy build it may be a problem for someone new to modeling since there are no plans and the instructions are in “Japanese.”  The illustrations in the instructions are excellent and easy to follow. The wood was excellent!...Moab

Reinforcing the frame and working on the hatch doors for the tube. Have one cut and functional and working on the second one. Will have to work on these for awhile to get them looking decent along with hinge work. Being careful as not to break this rascal. 
 

Welcome from South Carolina! Actually, we have a lot of Upper Midwesterners living in this area -- some from Michigan, too.

Welcome aboard, Jeff! I can't tell you the scale on your kit for certain, but the type is definitely a Grand Banks schooner. Just about every kit manufacturer and his brother has put out a kit of Bluenose at one time or another, so I would start with examining dimensions for that vessel. Also have a look at the many Bluenose build logs here.
 
Cheers!

Welcome from South Carolina! Actually, we have a lot of Upper Midwesterners living in this area -- some from Michigan, too.

I've decided to dig into my stash and take out the oldest resident there: Model Shipways  USF Confederacy. Should be a challenge for me.
This is going to be a slow build, because I only have a couple of hours a day to devote to it; too many other kinds of projects going on.
Since there are a very large number of both old and new build logs of the Confederacy, I'm not going to post a blow by blow description. Plan on periodic updates and asking advice for problems encountered since many have built this model. 
I was relieved to find the kit had the good plywood, and there was no warping despite its period of neglect.
I dusted off the snazzy build board I bought primarily for this build once I determined that this big mother would fit. The building "board" is amazingly flexible once you figure out how to arrange all the bits depending on what you want to do.
I just moved the model up from the base clamp once I finished placing the bulkheads, filler blocks, stern and bow fillers, and fitted balsa blocks at the bow.
So, ready for faring. The board apparatus allows for rotation of the model, and some clamps (visible in the photo below) holds it rock steady together with the fore and aft clamps. I've got it turned to work on the starboard faring, and will start that soon. It looks like I will have plenty of clearance for constructing the stern pieces, and other than rotating from side to side I should be able to do all of the upper planking at least with the current positioning of the attachment points. Pretty neat.
Planning pretty much an out of the box build, perhaps except replacing the cannon with Chuck's. I wish he still had replacement figurehead though.
That's all for now.
 

Hi all,
 
My name is Ernie and I'm from Michigan. I been been building for most of my life and have always had an interest in ships, particularly the ore freighters the run up and down the lakes and the tallships of the age of sail.
 
My current project is the 1966 Revell Mayflower that I came across at a thrift store for a $1.00, definitely couldn't argue with that.
 
Don't really know what else to say so hopefully I'll meet most of you at some point on the forum.

They roll over automatically. Actually, by magic -- but don't tell anyone!

Ship's Lifeboat.Somewhere. Mid ocean. Any ocean. War or Peace. Remember!.
W/C 15” X 11”

They roll over automatically. Actually, by magic -- but don't tell anyone!

Emma is now painted and a main mast has been fashioned. The radio gear is also installed.
The rc gear is all held in by two screws securing the entire rc block.
The deck will be screwed on so it can be completely removable.
The cast lead bulb on the keel weighs 7 lbs.
The cabin roof and both hatches are removable.
The flared and bent brass tube is to house the jib stays to the winch.
It was a feat of engineering.
I had to buy a flaring tool set, a tube bender and a gas torch to anneal the KS brass tube which is hard brass.
I had to make several attempts at it.
The first was with some copper tube from ebay which arrived at the incorrect size so Slipped through the flaring tool.
I tried ks alluminium tube with the bender but that just flattened at the bends.
I tried the ks brass tube cold but that also flattened at the bends.
I then annealed the brass tube and voila!!!
That poxy bit of tube you see caused hours of frustration, many days waiting for stuff to arrive and cost me $150 to make!.
I have done it now but there is a lot to be said for kits.
Although at the current time there is no kit for Emma.
The mast looks to be massively thick and cants aft quite a bit.
I have made all as per plans so it should be okay.
It is 16mm thick and tapers to 10mm at the top.
Only the fore and sides of the mast are tapered.
The aft is left as is to coincide with the sail Luff.
Pete

Excellent work, Tom! Really an attractive model.

Jim, with your skill and considering the recent headline I read over the weekend about the finding of the wreck, I think it would be something special to do HMS Urge departing Malta.

Excellent work, Tom! Really an attractive model.

Excellent work, Tom! Really an attractive model.

Return Cargo
Return Convoy. Steamer with a Deck Cargo of timber from Northern Russia. With escorting Corvette. Timber for 'Pit Props', was vital for the coal mines. Coal was essential to fuel the factories and and heat the homes of Britain. The former supply from Scandinavia and the Baltic countries, was no longer available being now occupied by Germany.
14”X10”w/c

Hi Everyone, 
 
After completing a couple of 15.00 Amazon wooden models, i am sure we all know the ones. I Purchased the Virginia 1819.
Long story short My Cardiologist suggested I find a hobby to help me relax. After a Week cruising around the New England Islands and visiting many maritime museums the idea came to me. "Why not a model Ship"
 
Being my first "Real" Model, I did make a few mistakes. one big mistake. i used the deck wood for the hull and really did not figure this out until the hull was done. CRAP!!! then i found Model Ship World and thanks to all the Virginia 1819 Builders. you made it a lot easier. 
 
Here are some photos.
 
Next Up is the Belem 1896
6 
 
 

Post 32

A nice delivery arrived today.

Whilst I was researching all things Alert, I was much taken by the painting by Joseph Marshall.

 

3402
When I found out that the Science Museum sold copies, I just had to have one.

 

3409(2)
Can always find room for one more Naval print.

B.E.

07/11/2019