Landrotten Highlander

Featibul

love the bit about frustration and joy, exactly why I stopped with plastic models for a long time. Now I make 'alterations' to kits to get this frustration/joy

I closed my ebay accoumt some time ago because of 2 things: 1) I had shipping issues that both the seller and ebay refused to look into 2) I do miniature painting, and I found it increasingly annoying that so much of their 'recommended' stuff came from known recasters (people who buy a figure from a reputable manufacturer and recast them (inferior quality) at a fraction ofthe price. It came to a point that it was nearly impossible to determine if an unusual figure wasrecast or not. Since I am a bit bored with most sculpters approaches (too static or the same pose for different subjects) the novel pieces are what gives me pleasure, and for that I am willing to pay the (sometimes relatively high) price those limit ededitions bring. I am on a miniature forum, and all manufacturers that are on there report having the same problem and ebay not giving them adequate protection. So I chose to leave ebay and focus on going back to the more old fashioned way of finding companies I can interact with properly, either physically (shop) or online. Anyway, rant over, let's getback to this wonderful build and no longer hijack this thread.

Ta, Old Colingwood, I will

Will the stem and keel parts be the simple version, or the more complicated version?

I for one would like to have the option to explude pre-spiled planks. As you said, Chuck, it is a basic skill that will allow you to progress to much more complex builds without having to worry about how to do proper planking

Anybody can point me to a company in Europe ( preferably UK) that can reliably provide me with Pontos upgrades? Also, what basic ship do you use? I have experience with Tamiya and find them of good quality. Compared to them the likes of Heller and Revell fall short. Slainte gu mhath L.H.

Have been quietly following you build. Must say this camouflage combined with the research makes this such a beautiful ship I am actually considering attempting this myself. Slainte gu mhath L.H.

re the middle gun: perhaps a daft question, but is it possible to raise the barrels so they are actually above the crane? Slainte gu mhath L.H.

Very nicely presented. How did you make the edges of the base plate? Slainte gu mhath L.H.

All I can say is: What they said. Kudos on finishing the model, have a to wind down (after putting her in the crate, of course slainte gu mhath L.H.

agree

The book states that 'The structure of measures was taken over from China and in its original subdivision was consistently decimal: 1 'ri ' = 150 'jo' (different from mat size) = 1500 shaku 1 'jo' = 10 'shaku' = 100 'sun' 1 'shaku' = 10 'sun' = 100 'bu' 1 'sun' = 10 'bu' = 100 'rin' The metric system as we know today has only been in use in Japan since 1891. As stated in a previous post, the 'ken' came into vogue in the latter half of Japan's Middle Ages. Initially there were 2 different methods used in architectural applications (kyo-ma and inaka-ma), but only the inaka-ma method of 6 'shaku' relating to center-to-center distance between columns replaced the above mentioned 'jo' unit of 10 shaku, primarely because of the 'ken' measure's intimacy with daily life. There are no dates provided as to the first use of the 'ken', but A governmental regulation of March and August1657 concerning construction in Edo (Tokyo) mentions both 'ken' measurements. For completeness of infornation: 1 'ken' in the kyo-ma measurement = 6.5 'shaku' 1 'ken' inthe inaka-ma measurement = 6.0 shaku hope this helps in the short term, in the long term, there is much more information available in the book - I have only taken those snippets of information I thought would be usefull in making a choice wihtout having full access to this resource (the book is 150 pages of information). On your lay-out options they can be used, but take into account that most things Japanese have an element of easthetic pleasure involved, so in the layout think about how the light hits the tatami mats, and what would give the most pleasing aspect (see bookpage 42-43) as well as the visual aspects of the layout. Adding to thiss is the factt that the size of the 'room' on the ship is not conform you typical 6 'jo' room size. From what I can make out of the general concept of layout, the most pleasing aspect is to have the entire length of the mat across the (entrance)door as this would give a 'wholesome' look (assuming the entrance door is located at the narrow end of the room), instead of your options which starts with a 'deviding line' right from the door. (but the last bit is my sensitivity, and might be completely off tangent). Slainte gu mhath L.H.

Where have I heard that before......

Just had another look at the pictures, it looks like the largers of the roofs supports a 6 'jo' space, thus 6 tatami mats. They could be layed in specific patterns: 1) llllll 2) === 3) l==l I think this will be the most interesting layout visually. Slainte gu mhath L.H.

Richt, back on topic... This information can be found in the book 'Measure and construction of the Japanese House' by Heino Engel. The 'Shaku' is similar to one foot - i.e. 303.22 mm = 11.93 in In the latter Japanese Middle Ages, the measurement 'ken' appeared, which is the measurements from one centerline of a post to the following post. Japanese houses are modular in design, and the (thin) paper walls are unable to carry any weight. Thus the weight bearing proportions of the wall are actually posts between the paper walls. Being modular means that it is possible to generate different layouts for houses using the simple measurement of the 'ken'. The relationship between 'ken' and 'shaku is 6 - i.e. 1 'ken' = 6 'shaku'. The unit for square measurements is a bit more complicated. The unit 'jo' refers to the area of 1 tatami mat. The size of any room is depicted by how many tatami mats fit into it (3, 4, 4.5, 6, 8 and 10, or in other words how many adults could sleep in this room, as 1 tatami mat was just big anough a room needed for an adult to sleep), but the size of the tatami mat varies with design method and local practise, and could be anything between 6.5 X 3.5 and 5.8 X 2.9 'shaku'. It is only after the industrial revolution that the tatami mats got a standard size to facilitate automation. The other unit for achitectural square measurement is 'tsubo', which is the area of 1 square 'ken'. given the differences in building and measuring across Japan at the time, one square 'tsubo' could be anything between 6.5 X 6.5 and 6.0 X 6.0 'shaku'. In other words, this is the square unit as measured between the centerline of the posts on each of the corners of this unit. To make things a bit easier in determining how many tatami mats could fit in this ship, I would look at how many posts support the roof, then determine the distance between centerlines of the posts. Take this 'distance' minus '1 thickness of post', and that will be the length of your tatami mat. Its width should be exactly half that length. Now I shall have some brekky. Slainte gu mhath L.H.

I'll check my literature

I was under the impression that Tatami sizes were standard, yet differed across Japan. The reason is that the standard size was the average height of a male person, called a shaku?, but the Japanese in the South were taller than those in the North....

Wot, no rockets? sillyness aside, an enspiring log to be sure Slainte gu mhath L.H.

I don't think this is the case. There will be a group build here on this site - each member of the group will have to post on his own building block using the materials chosen/provided. Only when the members of this (online) group have received their material will it be made available as a kit on Chuck's site. Do correct me when I am wrong. Slainte gu mhath L.H.

So as Dowmer asked before, will this project be 1:48 (i.e. 1/4") or 1:24 (i.e. 1/2")? I am not particularly too concerned, as I will probable do both options in the group build, but still - nice to know, neh? Slainte gu mhath L.H. p.s. the 'neh' part is Japanese, the 'Slainte gu mhath' is Scottish Gaelic, and means 'Good health'

Nice. 1:24 I take it? Who is the manufacturer?

Thanks you for this insightful comment. I think the reference to your source is adequte, as anybody can both find the work you refer to and it is clear that you do not claim that work as your own (this is one of the criteria to identify plagiarism in scientific circles). Slainte gu mhath L.H.

I was thinking along the same lines as Mark:switching masts (some of the pictures suggest this con figuration) or make them of equal length. Slainte gu mhath L.H.

If it is scale 1:48 or 1:24 then count me in