Landrotten Highlander

I would be interested in reading the thesis.

Wonderful work. How did you solve your problem with the carving hanging over the windows as in post #38?

sad news indeed. a bit late, but condelences to his friends and family

This is my personal preference, and in no way should be taken as gospel. For the standing rigging I would prefer the #3 Aurifil 4241 Very Dark Grey For the running riggin I would prefer the #2 Aurifil 5011 Rope Beige Both these colours 'feel' right for a scaled down version of a vessel that has been subjected to the elements during a voyage.

I beleive Chuck is using yellow cedar for his kits. Perhaps he can answer your question?

Hope you will be allowed to post his progres on here too

Received the book in perfect order, and can confirm the receipt of the first part of the translation. Many thanks to Mr Delacroix for his hard work and customer service.

Hi Clare, ny chance you can tell where we can get copies of these plans? I live in the UK in case you got your information from some museum.

Not sure two hairs would work, as it is the capillary suction that 'pulls' the paint onto the brush and not much room for paint between two hairs only. I have bought some brushes from a guy who makes them himself, and the smallest brush (measured in number of hairs) carries 13 hairs. It comes in 3 lengths - short, middel and long - an allows me to paint a very thin line indeed. The lengths of brush used depends a bit on what I am trying to paint: for intricate patterns and very small details I tend to use the short brush because of the control it gives me, while for patterns such as that found in tartan pattern I use the longest one as it allows me to control the run of the line much better. I agree with the good quality brush being expensive but worth while, as long as proper care is taken. When painting with acrylics (water based paints) I always leave my brushes resting on a shallow saucer with some water - the hairy end rests in the water and this means the brush is ready to load with paint whenever I want (only have to shake the excess water away), and when finished I wash out the brush in 3 stages: 1 in semi dirty water to get rid of most of the paint, then in a second pot of clean water to get rid of the rest of the paint, then in a third pot of clean water to make sure there is no paint left. I leave to dry by dabbing it against a kitchen towel (no rubbing the brush), then re-forming the tip and putting the brush in a fitting plastic tube with the point down to ensure that any water caught in the ferrule (the iron bit holding the hairs together) can drop away from it.

I do not know anything about the number of shot lockers, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the ships mates (young lads - kids, really) were used to haul shot manually from the locker and delivering them to the required batteries: i.e. Jimmy lad would go down into the shot locker, Wullie lad would lower a bag for Jimmy lad to fill, then Wullie lad would bring the bag to the appropriate gun and run back to get more shot from Jimmy lad. I am assuming that something similar was done while loading the shot into the locker: rather than dumping them from height (particulalry for the first layer) they would be lowered for one lad to place them properly inside the locker. Dropping them from a height would always result in damage to the floor, and since this is so close to the keel it would be very difficult (and hence expensive) to repair. I would also think that shot for smaller guns and carronades would be stored into the hold, as such ammunition would be needed whenever they landed somewhere so it needs to be really accessible. Looking forward to hear other thoughts on this.

looking good

Thanks for this information, inquiring mind has been satisfied ... for now...

quick search on the internet calls this thing a DUAS probe. lots of info on how to build these things in models, but no explanation for what they are. Enquiring mind wants to know.

I think the 'probe' is actually a pitot tube. This is used to measure the airspeed - must stay in undisturbed air as much as possible. The way it works is as follows: the pitot tube takes the total pressure (dynamic + static), while at the side of the aircraft/helicopter will be static ports that measure static air pressure only. The speed dial detracts the static pressure from the total pressure, giving you an accurate indication of air speed. In order to get accurate readings the total pressure in the pitot tube must be clear of any disturbances in air generated by features along the fuselage. Please feel free to correct me if I am interpreting this wrong.

pulling up a chair

better out than in, I always say😁

It can always get worse -- look for the procession in Echternach, Luxemburgh: 3 steps forward, 2 steps back

Is there a possibility of staining the gun ports red before you plank?

wonderful work.

not quite. I study Advanced Manufacturing, and this volume came a bi too latee to build it into a 3D model so I can use additive manufacturing techniques to build her

On my wishlist too. Currently finishing a MSc at University (going back after 25+yrs working was no doddle), then completing the 'man cave' before warming up to such a project. ..... Doesn't hurt to buy the book in the mean time, though

wonderful work. Worth the time spent on it

welcome, and congratulations with your desire to building your (first) wooden kit. Someone once said: 'If your dreams don't scare you, you don't dream big enough.' Moving out of your comfort zone is never easy, but once you realise that by doning so you are enriching your life, it becomes enjoyable while remaining somewhat scary. Feel free to ask questions, and make sure you take plenty of pictures along the way - they will be great help when asking questions as well as being a momento for when you discuss your (finished) model with your friends/family.

Sad to hear. Condolences to his family and friends .

order placed, looking forward to receiving a copy