KeithAug
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Another interesting subject. I will happily follow along.- 313 replies
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- lightship
- Feuerschiff Elbe 1
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Keith What a difficult time you are both having. However I am thankful Maggie has passed the first critical hurdle. The medics do wonderful things these days so hopefully recovery will go well. My thoughts are with you both.
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Just spent a pleasant time catching up Richard. All looking incredibly crisp. Great work.
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Brian - prompted by the above I should have been more explicit about the soldering. I solder with a variable temperature iron (typically set to its default setting of 320c) - although in the past I have used a fairly basic Weller single temperature soldering iron. I have never set fire to the jig - just some light charing at worst. I have never tried a torch for soldering brass wire of circa .050" or less diameter because I have found it unnecessary. I tend to solder with lead free solder wire of about 1/32" diameter. It is pre fluxed but just to be sure I always add a dab of plumbers soldering flux. This tends to work well for making guard rails.
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Interesting jig Andy. I haven't seen its like before.
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- Vigilance
- Sailing Trawler
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Yes I thought that might be the case. I'll be interested to see how the laser test turns out. I have another option for making the jig if all else fails.
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Eberhard - beyond my experience. Is it possible to get good control of the width / depth? Clearly it is very easy with a saw if one is available.
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Brian - I would tend to make a simple plywood jig for this type of operation as follows:- The slots in the plywood are most easily made with a slitting saw on a small table saw - e.g. Byrnes. If the top / middle rails and stanchions are of different diameters use different slot widths. Drilling holes at all the intersections provides clearance for access by the soldering iron tip. The 1, 2, 3 sequence probably makes most sense as continuous runs of the top rail and stanchions will give the best visual effect. The grid of slots accurately controls the position (uniformity) of the finished guard rail. I hope this makes sense? Let me know if it doesn't. Feel free to ignore it if you find a better solution.
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Yep Eric - he sold both of us down the river. I better put some extra shifts in.
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That is hell of an extensive update Brian - and all those laser cut pieces are making me jealous. As for the rails, is styrene going to be durable enough? Presumably if she is going into a case it will be OK. The dusting could be problematic if it is not being cased. I have a way of getting the brass option very regular if you are not wedded to the styrene option. Let me know if you are interested.
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Thank you Gary. I think you are correct re the motor type because there are no obvious bush access points.
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Yes. But I think its the CAP - With age its bottom seems to have sagged!
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Thank you Keith and Gary. I was going to have a productive day in the workshop but it was not to be. My somewhat recently neglected Byrnes saw decided I didn't love it any more so it threw a sulk and after a few hesitant attempts at starting it threw in the towel. If I manually kick over the blade it angrily bursts into life and bites my prodding stick. Ooch! I think I need to buy a new CAP (maybe a bowler). At least I have learned summat (Yorkshire dialect). the 40/85/21 means that its operational range is -40c to 85c and it will withstand 21 days at 95% relative humidity at - 40c. P.S. Note to self - remember not to lick the terminals - it may be less dead than it is pretending to be.
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I never thought pipes could be so beautiful.
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Gary Like the others I welcome the shipyards reopening. Your skills don't seem to have suffered from your layoff. The hull planking looks just the job.
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In principle yes Andy.
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Wonderful overhead shots Eberhard. She looks magnificent - that is apart from the crews dereliction of duties on the rope work. Have they been on the schnapps?
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George - it will turn out fine in the end, just keep at it and you will be surprised how many people are impressed by the result. Putty is fine once painted - only you and your readers will know.
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Having done my silly post I did give it some thought. On the basis that a metal lathe is only a milling machine laying on its side then it of course possible to make the coaming. How you could do it on a wood lathe is a bit more challenging.
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Eric - I have to agree with Brian - those clamps are enormous. Did you run out of clothes pegs? Deck looking good.
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Nicely done Hakan. But of course it is much more difficult for those who only own a number 11 scalpel. Now if you only had a lathe you could spend months working out the best way of turning coamings. 😬
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Druexy - I sort of imagined they would have many uses when first liberated about 10 years ago. They are nice and springy. We could invent a game - The "what rubbish do you have in your modelling draw" game. Nil points Pat.
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Andy its a fairing guide - so I know when to stop sanding.
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Andy / Brick - they must have been made in their billions. Now sadly cosigned to that technological scrap heap in the sky. Brick - it's not your age - they date from 1990's. Thank you John.
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